Call Dane at DMR rifles ,see what he has on handYesterdays first light sets was. 22” 6mm creed. Still looking for a shorty 16.5 or 18” barrel in a varmint caliber to play with.
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Join the contest SubscribeCall Dane at DMR rifles ,see what he has on handYesterdays first light sets was. 22” 6mm creed. Still looking for a shorty 16.5 or 18” barrel in a varmint caliber to play with.
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It's kind of a bit of an expensive niche gun. They're not super common so there's just not going to be the volume that you might have been expecting. That's not what you wanted to hear but it's true....
I was looking for a site that might have a variety of different calibers used barrels for sale in stock. Maybe there isn’t one…
Come to think of it, I don’t even think there’s a website strictly for used savage barrels and those gotta be the most common.It's kind of a bit of an expensive niche gun. They're not super common so there's just not going to be the volume that you might have been expecting. That's not what you wanted to hear but it's true.
Or AI's , or Remington's, or any used barrels.Come to think of it, I don’t even think there’s a website strictly for used savage barrels and those gotta be the most common.
What app or device is this? I’d love to get something to improve my dry fire practice.Got some dry fire in on the SRS last night. Turns out the “0”s on the spines of the wife’s fashion magazines at about 15 m are close to a 1/10 mil point of aim. It’s remarkably clear if you would have missed after the trigger press.View attachment 7910492View attachment 7910490
Looks like mantis x and maybe a dfat?What app or device is this? I’d love to get something to improve my dry fire practice.
Can also use this for people who don't have the means to make thingsI whipped up this little guy for my A1 a while back and thought some might like to see it.
I dislike the bulky rail adaptors and this keeps my bore axis a little lower as well. Plus it was a fun project.
I turned some stainless round stock down to the appropriate diameter, made a shank and threaded it, then screwed it into the rail decently tight and marked the location of the flats. Remove, grind flats and drill the cross hole. Works fantastic.
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Turned and threaded
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Finished
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What kind of moose is that? has to be the smallest moose I've ever seen with antlers, unless you are a giant!View attachment 7961241
Watched this one at a distance (mile) for an hour, and a smaller one, chasing a cow.
He started at 1200yds around a bog and started getting curious about our cow call. Took 20min to come from 1200 to 800 yds, then trees...
Came out the other side of the trees at 600 yds, Then started at a trot towards. I had a momentary window before he hit the woods again at 500yds and took a front quarter shot at 535 while he was trotting on in... not the ideal angle, but I could see vitals in my mental picture. Thought the bog would slow him down.
Took... 15 yds before he was down. Steps. We couldn't see the drop, and when I pulled the trigger it was literally under a second before he was in the woods and out of sight. Just a “now or never.”
Walked down the half mile or so, hit the bog, and found him piled up dead to the world!
Debated options. Only 200yds from gravel logging road, so skinned out for a euro mount, skinned for a blanket, and all the meat!!
6’0 230, just didn’t sit behind him.What kind of moose is that? has to be the smallest moose I've ever seen with antlers, unless you are a giant!
Shit man, you're living way too large for me!! I can barely afford to hunt neighboring states much less Alaska or Africa!!6’0 230, just didn’t sit behind him.
Newfoundland.
Not big boys here, but lots of them.
Haven’t seen much past 2-3 days, but they’ve been bedded down. Hurricane coming.
800-900# gross (378# hanging weight from quarters and lions/strap. Left the whole thorax and gut pile for bears, and had the head and cape in camp).
Even the monster moose here are ~1000#.
But, comparatively cheap (6k for an outfitter) and easy to get to.
I’m doing Africa next year (send a PM if ya wanna come, seriously) and will plan after that.
Did a 327” Bull Elk outside of Kremmling CO last year at 725yds: can’t recall if you’re CO or UT.
Ya ever wanna do AK or Yukon, I’m in.
It’s a Mantis. I like it a lot. Just wish there was a way to simulate recoil.Looks like mantis x and maybe a dfat?
Well hell, lemme know when ya wanna drop elks in your GMU! I’ll go for an OTC tag in CO!Shit man, you're living way too large for me!! I can barely afford to hunt neighboring states much less Alaska or Africa!!![]()
Im in Utah, the GS tags sold out in the first three hours or something like that. I got one though, gonna be out there soon.Well hell, lemme know when ya wanna drop elks in your GMU! I’ll go for an OTC tag in CO!
It will probably fit an a2. Attachment method is totally different from a1 and olderTried searching but my eyes are crossed from reading this beast of a thread…. Will the M2 forend fit on any of the older chassis? If so is it possible to get just the M2 forend?
It will fit but the top rail won't because the M2 top rail is a bolt-on full-length rail and the A2 is milled into the chassis.Tried searching but my eyes are crossed from reading this beast of a thread…. Will the M2 forend fit on any of the older chassis? If so is it possible to get just the M2 forend?
You misspelled wisdom as weakness. It's ok but you might want to tweak your auto-correct settings.I had a moment of weakness and bought a M2. I’d like to get an extra set of skins to play with if anyone has a set. I’m new to DT so I’m not sure what version fits and doesn’t fit. Im guessing there are differences between a1/a2.
It will not fit. The A2 has the top rail milled into the receiver and that is passed into the handguard. The M2 is a bolt on and doesn't have this notch. This is what desert tech told meTried searching but my eyes are crossed from reading this beast of a thread…. Will the M2 forend fit on any of the older chassis? If so is it possible to get just the M2 forend?
Yea I figured this out and ended up grabbing a M2 chassis from Europtic. Now I need a 308/6.5 bolt…. If anyone has one hit me up!It will not fit. The A2 has the top rail milled into the receiver and that is passed into the handguard. The M2 is a bolt on and doesn't have this notch. This is what desert tech told me
Yea I figured this out and ended up grabbing a M2 chassis from Europtic. Now I need a 308/6.5 bolt…. If anyone has one hit me up!
I’m hoping find one of the older swept ones. Will prob grab one of the new ones if I end up with a barrel and haven’t found one yet.![]()
Desert Tech SRSA2 Bolt Assembly, 260Rem/308Win/6.5x47, Right Handed
Check out the deal on Desert Tech SRSA2 Bolt Assembly, 260Rem/308Win/6.5x47, Right Handed at MGWwww.midwestgunworks.com
You're looking for an A1 bolt then. They do pop up from time to time. Maybe check with Orkan he may have a few leftI’m hoping find one of the older swept ones. Will prob grab one of the new ones if I end up with a barrel and haven’t found one yet.
Yes they doQuestion: do the A1 barrels fit the A2/M2 chassis? I have an A1 with 2 barrels, thinking of upgrading to the the M2 but I got such a good deal on my 338 Norma barrel, I’d like to keep it. I’d definitely lose money if I had to repurchase it.
For sale posts require upgrading to supporter.View attachment 7964158
Feel like a real dummy. Bought this 6.5x47 with less than 200rds through it planning to have it rebored/rechambered because it’d be cheaper in the long run versus having a new barrel made. It was shipped back to me and the guy said he decided he didn’t want to tackle that project. Have zero use for this cartridge so was gonna mention it here before it gets pasted everywhere. 700tyd
Deleted my post, sorryFor sale posts require upgrading to supporter.
No biggie. Just a friendly reminder.Deleted my post, sorry
I am curious about the difference. From what I read the srsa2 reduces weight by 2.1lbs due to the fluted barrel, no monopod, and chassis lightening cuts. If you have an srsa1 you can have all the above except for the lightening cuts in the chassis. What is the ACTUAL weight difference between the chassis with everything else being equal? I couldn’t imagine a bit less material in the chassis amounting to much over 1/2 lb but maybe I’m wrong.
Lots of discussion about the weight and everyone seems to post what their complete rifle weighs. That’s helpful to the point where someone needs to hit a 16lb restriction.
Here’s my take:
A1 Covert Chassis + Skins, monopod removed: 4 lb 8 oz
Buttpad, no spacers: 7 oz
Buttpad spacer, each: 2.6 oz
A1 Bolt, “308”: 12.2 oz
A2 Bolt, “308”: 12.0 oz
SA 6 Rd Mag, empty: 6.5 oz
Monopod: 5.6 oz
RRS ARCA Plate: 6.2 oz
ARC M10 QD-L 30mm mount: 8.5 oz
260 Rem barrel, fluted barrel and tenon, 27”, .920 muzzle with Area 419 adapter: 5 lb 4 oz
300 Win Mag barrel, non fluted, 27”, .850 muzzle, Area 419 adapter, 5 lb 1 oz
6xc barrel, non fluted, 27”, .875 muzzle, Area 419 adapter, 5 lb 5 oz
308 barrel, non fluted, 17”, .890 muzzle, Area 419 adapter, 3 lb 8 oz
450 Bushmaster barrel, non fluted, 23”, .920 muzzle, Area 419 adapter, 4 lb 6 oz
260 Rem barrel, non fluted, 19”, .875 muzzle, Area 419 adapter, 4 lb 6 oz
Add up what you’ll need, pick your rings/mount, add your scope weight and total weight of ammo and you should be good.
The A2 chassis saves about a pound, so hopefully someone else can post the exact weight with the bolt, buttpad, magazine removed.
My 338 Norma has a firing pin that floats so free I can hear it slide back and forth when I tip the bolt up and down. My .260 bolt is tighter and does not do that. If yours is really tight, perhaps it would leave a mark.Question for the group:
Anyone ever see primer indentation on ejected live rounds?
Was on my Newfie moose hunt and was ejecting the 338 LM (Hornady precision hunter, stock desert tech conversion) and noted the live round had a tiny mark on the primer. Not a strike, just an minute indent. Trying to recall if the firing pin is free floating.
Question for the group:
Anyone ever see primer indentation on ejected live rounds?
Was on my Newfie moose hunt and was ejecting the 338 LM (Hornady precision hunter, stock desert tech conversion) and noted the live round had a tiny mark on the primer. Not a strike, just an minute indent. Trying to recall if the firing pin is free floating.
I gathered as such. Can’t recall hearing my 338 bolt rattle at all, but gathered. Always have muzzle discipline and the like, but it was a “hmm… I don’t like seeing that indentation there”.Yes, free floating firing pin.
I gathered as such. Can’t recall hearing my 338 bolt rattle at all, but gathered. Always have muzzle discipline and the like, but it was a “hmm… I don’t like seeing that indentation there”.
I get yaIs the indentation repeatable or was it a one off?
Was that the first round chambered after storage and do you store your rifle with bolt closed and decocked?
How cold was it at the time and what/if anything do you use as bolt lube?
See where I'm going with this?
If you're concerned about it, you cold disassemble the bolt and give it a clean out to satisfy yourself that all is well. Though unlikely, there could be/had have been something gumming up the firing pin in the forward position.
Check torque on your skins. It may help matters.Does anyone have feeding issues with the SRSA2 short action 10 round mags? The mags themselves feel very loose in the rifle itself and I have to shift the mag to get rounds to feed on the .308 Winchester. I purchased the magazines brande new about a year ago. Anyone have any tips to fix this or is this just par for the course?
Are they hitting below the feed ramp? I think I had some doing it and just opened the lips up a little.Does anyone have feeding issues with the SRSA2 short action 10 round mags? The mags themselves feel very loose in the rifle itself and I have to shift the mag to get rounds to feed on the .308 Winchester. I purchased the magazines brande new about a year ago. Anyone have any tips to fix this or is this just par for the course?
May not be the same issue, but I have 2 srsa1 chassis and one them would not hold the mag correctly, but I could put the mag in the other chassis and it worked fine, what I ended up finding was the geometry on the mag release button ( the one you push to drop the mag) was not even close, I ordered a new one and it fixed my problem.Does anyone have feeding issues with the SRSA2 short action 10 round mags? The mags themselves feel very loose in the rifle itself and I have to shift the mag to get rounds to feed on the .308 Winchester. I purchased the magazines brande new about a year ago. Anyone have any tips to fix this or is this just par for the course?