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I’m in the same boat with a 20 in barrel and a 7 in can. I’ve been considering getting the HIT soft case for the extra length.What soft case do you guys recomend for the SRS? I currently have an 18” barrel with a 9” can on it. I saw the soft case that DTA has but it looks too short to leave my can on. I have no interest in unscrewing my can every time it goes in the bag. I think a 42” or 46” would work.
I like the way you did your safe room walls!Alright y’all got me. I’ve never been into DT but I saw an old school Gen 1 with the quad rail and ladders and loved the look. I was advised not to buy a Gen 1 so I ended up with a M2 and Mlok rails to make a throw back of sorts.
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One thing I’ve realized is I think I need to make a SRS specific rear bag that’s super flat bc the foot on the stock is really low. Even our mini bag is too tall for my bipod height. I’ll make one and we’ll call it….the pancake.
What soft case do you guys recomend for the SRS? I currently have an 18” barrel with a 9” can on it. I saw the soft case that DTA has but it looks too short to leave my can on. I have no interest in unscrewing my can every time it goes in the bag. I think a 42” or 46” would work.
There's a pocket in the DT soft case to contain a suppressor. Of course, diameter could be an issue. Length could be too but I think that matters less to the question. I have made a number of observations about the internal configuration of the DT soft case with respect to the pockets (seems the quantity and size of the pockets was not given much thought) but I still use the thing when it want to be able to backpack or briefcase carry without having to fuck around much. For the most part my soft case serves as the lid foam for my hard case, ala AI ASR/Rem PSR/etc... deployment kits. Truth be told, I used the way those deployment kits were put together as something of a roadmap to how I set up my hard cases.What soft case do you guys recomend for the SRS? I currently have an 18” barrel with a 9” can on it. I saw the soft case that DTA has but it looks too short to leave my can on. I have no interest in unscrewing my can every time it goes in the bag. I think a 42” or 46” would work.
There were some other subtle differences as well....mostly centered around weight reduction. In addition to the above they also eliminated the monopod. I think they made some changes to the trigger, but can't recall what those were off the top of my head.As far as I can tell, the only difference between an M2 and an A2 is the top rail and handguard.
How is the trigger? Any creep? My A1 trigger sucked until I did the Quick trigger job on it. That turned it into a nice crisp trigger. Before that it had a mile of creep.My M2 arrived about six months ago with a monopod and a 40MOA rail. Apparently they've moved to a 30MOA now, but I only have a Gen 1 to compare the trigger against. The Gen 1 trigger is highly adjustable (weight, creep, length of pull?) and you can tweak the weight directly by using a 2mm(?) hex wrench passed through the trigger guard, but the M2 (and I would kind of assume the A2 as well) is really only adjustable for weight and you have to take the skins off to adjust it because that particular screw is now on the front of the trigger assembly. Kind of weird if you ask me...
Make that AK trigger (a good way to describe it) a different animal in 15minutes and a small flat file. Nice to know the newer triggers come good to go.If my Gen 1 is like an AK trigger, the M2 is like an AR trigger (just the difference in smoothness and overall travel). The M2 trigger feels like there's almost no creep and while it breaks nicely, it's a bit jarring going from one to the other.
Could you do me a huge favor and get a measurement on the back end of your rail for how high it comes off the receiver? I got mine at the same time and I'm honestly not certain about the angle. I don't think it's 40, pretty sure it's 30moa but I can't rightly tell thanks to DT's mishmash of specs that're published still. They need a continuity guy really badly.My M2 arrived about six months ago with a monopod and a 40MOA rail. Apparently they've moved to a 30MOA now, but I only have a Gen 1 to compare the trigger against. The Gen 1 trigger is highly adjustable (weight, creep, length of pull?) and you can tweak the weight directly by using a 2mm(?) hex wrench passed through the trigger guard, but the M2 (and I would kind of assume the A2 as well) is really only adjustable for weight and you have to take the skins off to adjust it because that particular screw is now on the front of the trigger assembly. Kind of weird if you ask me...
Does your top rail extend past the end of the handguard? From what I’ve gathered the original 40moa didn’t overhang and the 30moa production rails do.It says 40MOA on the insert they stuffed in the manual on mine. I then measured mine and did some Trig to confirm it. The rear of the top rail on mine starts at 0.5"
HTI ..375 Cheytac users...
What projectiles, powders have you had the best results with using the "Factory" barrel.
I have so far tried , Berger solids ( disaster with the factory twist) , CE 330 and 352.....very ordinary results so far!!
Best results i have so far are with Hornady 390gr A-tips...BUT ...they are now " Unobtanium" here in Aus!!
At this rate , by the time i get a good combo to shoot well i will need a new barrel !!
Thanks.
Using Hornady 390gr A-Tips i get superb groups/results....but there are no more available her in Aus.I've had 2 factory barrels that loved 350 SMK with about 130-132 of Retumbo or 132-134 of N570 both for about 3050 to 3125 fps
For what it’s worth, the DT match Ammunition is loaded also with 130 to 132 grains of the Tumbo with the 352 grain cutting edge bullet seeded just so the driving band is at the case of mouth. They may have changed it in the last couple of years but I’ve been playing with that load also and factory ammo for going on 10 years and that’s pretty consistently been there load.Using Hornady 390gr A-Tips i get superb groups/results....but there are no more available her in Aus.
Here in Aus...NO Sierra 350 SMK, with no ETA of any coming in.
I CAN NOT get CE 352gr Solids ( supposedly what DT use in their ammo) to group with ANY combination of powder, seating depth !!! I actually wasted 100rds and 9hrs today "trying" to get a combo with the 352 CE to work....just didn't happen. Best results were just over 1 moa!!
So frustrated with the 375 that i have switched out to my 50BMG Barrel , shoots Hornady 750gr Amax,s into one ragged hole !! Such a huge contrast to the 375 barrel with the CE 352,s .
Tried 130-133 AR2225 (Retumbo) with the CE.. best was over 1moa.For what it’s worth, the DT match Ammunition is loaded also with 130 to 132 grains of the Tumbo with the 352 grain cutting edge bullet seeded just so the driving band is at the case of mouth. They may have changed it in the last couple of years but I’ve been playing with that load also and factory ammo for going on 10 years and that’s pretty consistently been there load.
Tightened all of the screws and have the three pictures:Are they hitting below the feed ramp? I think I had some doing it and just opened the lips up a little.
Really need a round or rounds in the mag to see what’s going on. The weight can affect how it sits alsoTightened all of the screws and have the three pictures:
First picture how it is when inserted.
Second picture is how I have to adjust it to feed correctly.
Third picture is pushing the magazine all the way up.
Let me know your thoughts.
First picture how it is normally.Really need a round or rounds in the mag to see what’s going on. The weight can affect how it sits also
Does it do this with all of your mags or just this one? Could be the mag is just too far on one side of a set of stacked tolerances. Or, the front end of the feed lips is maybe a bit snug. A little judicious bending will let the round pivot upwards at the bullet end. Be careful to not overdo it. I'd be more prone to replacing the mag. Mags seem to be a kind of a weak spot with the platform between not feeding smoothly and (especially) nosedive issues, etc...First picture how it is normally.
Second how I need to modify it to feed.
Third: how far I can push it up.
Does this with all three of my short action 10 round magazines. I have a 5 round long action magazine and that works wellDoes it do this with all of your mags or just this one? Could be the mag is just too far on one side of a set of stacked tolerances. Or, the front end of the feed lips is maybe a bit snug. A little judicious bending will let the round pivot upwards at the bullet end. Be careful to not overdo it. I'd be more prone to replacing the mag. Mags seem to be a kind of a weak spot with the platform between not feeding smoothly and (especially) nosedive issues, etc...
And just to make sure my head isn't up my ass, this is not an Ackley improved case right?Does this with all three of my short action 10 round magazines. I have a 5 round long action magazine and that works well
Correct. It is standard .308 Winchester. Lapua Virgin brass first loading with scenar-L 155grain.And just to make sure my head isn't up my ass, this is not an Ackley improved case right?
Something wrong with your A2 trigger, I just got one and the trigger is better than the tuned trigger on my A1.Speaking of triggers...
Wish they would incorporate the HTI trigger into the A2!! Going from my HTI ( which has a superb trigger ) to the A2...the trigger on the A2 is very ordinary.
I actually much preferred the trigger on my old Gen 1 to the new A2!!
Nope...my mate has an A2 as well...his trigger is basically the same as my A2..Something wrong with your A2 trigger, I just got one and the trigger is better than the tuned trigger on my A1.
Maybe they changed something in the latest batch? My A2 trigger is excellent, as I said better than the A1 trigger with mods.Nope...my mate has an A2 as well...his trigger is basically the same as my A2..
Don't get me wrong...the A2 trigger breaks very clean.....but even at its lightest adjustment its still far to heavy.Maybe they changed something in the latest batch? My A2 trigger is excellent, as I said better than the A1 trigger with mods.
Anything lower than 1.5” is going to be too low to get good cheek position. I have a 1.67” ARC mount and the cheek riser is in the middle position.I’m planning for order an M2 shortly. I was searching the thread and saw that 1.5” seems to be ideal for 56mm scopes, but I’m looking at putting a Nightforce NX8 4-32x50 on mine. Do you think I still should be going with a 1.5” high for the 50mm scope, and if yes what mounting options do you all like for 30mm tubes? I was looking at the hawkins lightweight rings but they only go up to 1.25” for 30mm.
Yours broke ?Hope your ZCO holds up better than the 5 I had!!!
Yep!! 3 of the 5 did...!!Yours broke ?
That's actually very much dependent on bone structure and that's highly racially correlated. There's a pretty vast range of distances from the bottom of the zygomatic bone to the center of the eyeball and there are generally 2 very different kinds of face in this regard: European and "other". With a 56mm scope in a 1.5" mount I have my cheek rest height maxed out and it's still not tall enough on its own. I have to add 1/4" more height because I have the high cheekbones common among those with a lot of redskin genetic heritage. People of pure European ancestry are prone to having quite low cheekbones giving rise to your situation. Asians, Africans and American Indians tend toward notably higher cheekbones giving rise to my situation and the lovely side effect that few other people can use a rifle that's properly set up for me while just about anybody can crane their neck and abandon the cheek weld to look through a pureblood honkey's scope.Anything lower than 1.5” is going to be too low to get good cheek position. I have a 1.67” ARC mount and the cheek riser is in the middle position.
Are you able to reliably single feed? I’ve never been able to work mine as such.Surprisingly our +3 round holder works nicely on the M2. I hadn’t even tried to put one on bc I was thinking it would be awkward/not mount up right bc there’s not good a flat spot to put it. I contoured the velcro to the chassis and it actually works really well. It’s in a good position to reach and clear of the barrel screws
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