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I have seen a few bolts come through the shop like that. They were all immediately swapped out by DT.Several years back, a neighbor bought an SRS a1 on a desert tech close out deal when the a2 was coming out. He got a .473 bolt or .308 type bolt head as well as a lapua bolt. I did some barrels for it, but nothing for the .308 bolt. I bought that bolt when I bought my srs a1. I been using it, but it's a pita, the firing pin hole has a relief cut around it, and primers wash into that relief. It was a bad idea to relieve the edge of the hole. But whatever. It's a bad part made by dt on their behalf. So I sent an email, request to change the bolt for a good one. I don't care if they swap a bolt head or complete bolt. Got an RMA request, filled it out. I sent the bolt. Of course they want the complete conversion kit. But why? It's a part they made that isn't right. It's really simple. So I sent the bolt alone.....now were going round and round, I'll be lucky to get a junk by back without having to pay them. Anyone with some degree of intelligence, and some mechanical aptitude, an understanding of firearms and basic physics would simply swap the bolt. The bolt I have has a much higher potential of blowing a primer around the firing pin, which I'd prefer not to have my face on top of. But it's dt.
My DT rep just dropped by, I told him about the issue you were having, he said to give him a call. Shoot me a PM and I'll send you over my DT rep's contact info.I know. But I'm just going to guess today they'll want $50 for an inspection fee, and $15 to send me my bolt back. If im lucky . Maybe they'll ask for $50 ospe, and $50 cleaning and return shipping. We'll see. I'm really good at drinking and insulting people. And I can even be good at insults without drinking! . I'll take the existing junk bowl , bush the firing pin hole.... assuming I get it back. But I really need to call out to spr and just get a new one on the way
I had a 300WM bolt come with a chamfered firing pin hole .. Carson from DT organised a replacement ASAP..L
I have seen a few bolts come through the shop like that. They were all immediately swapped out by DT.
If you'd like my help, I'm happy to get my rep involved and get this taken care of for you.There's no reason for an intervention from another party. Another round of emails today, an incompetence on dt part to replace a part they manufactured incorrectly. The few hundred bucks to buy another bolt is a bargain in comparison to buying more rifles from them in the future.
yep. The ones we had come through our shop last year were the SRS-BL-BR or .300 WM Bolt assemblies that had the chamfer around the firing pin hole. It causes some major pressure signs on the primer.I had a 300WM bolt come with a chamfered firing pin hole .. Carson from DT organised a replacement ASAP..
It was the ejector spring on the 223 I swapped it out for a longer/stiffer one (lol) and it works perfectly now. Run the bolt fast or slow it’s perfect.with regard to ejection, first run the bold HARD HARD HARD. If that doesn't work, then look at ejector springs and all that.
And if I bought it used, I'd disassemble the bolt and clean the shit out of it, etc. Same with rifle.
As regards difficult bolt lift, that's the same things as it usually is. Your loads are hot in this barrel or improperly resized for it. Don't expect retards I mean reloads from another chamber to run in a new/different chamber. Fire some new/factory brass, reload THAT with .003 shoulder bump before you blame the gun. And make sure you're not jammed in the lands creating excess pressure. In a nutshell don't expect retards I mean reloads from another application to work in this one.
BTW those are great groups, once you get your chambering sorted out you will be GTG
Take a magic marker, draw a line on the shoulder your brass and on the case web. Just chamber a fired round and see if it's tight on the web, or the shoulder, or both. Also try it on a sized piece. One factor to consider on the desert tech is the 3 lug bolt design. It's really nice as far as less degrees of rotation needed to lock lugs or unlock. But it's also less degrees of rotation to can open, or break the shell loose after firing. Or in laymen's terms, it's a shorter ramp. And with the dt, it's all done on the barrel extension to bolt handle. It is what it is,
The barrel shank diameter is 1.2500" +0/-.0015" do not go over 1.2500" on an A2 as they are known to be held to a tighter tolerance than the A1'sCan anyone tell me the max barrel shank diameter on the srs? Looking into an a2 for structured barrels
I have a full 1.250 in my A1The barrel shank diameter is 1.2500" +0/-.0015" do not go over 1.2500" on an A2 as they are known to be held to a tighter tolerance than the A1's
It should because that's what it is supposed to be. However, from what others have said, the A1's have been a bit loose with their tolerances and will allow barrels larger than 1.2500 to be installed. On the other hand, A2's have been held tighter to accept 1.2500 maximum diameter, not over.I have a full 1.250 in my A1
Works great
It should because that's what it is supposed to be. However, from what others have said, the A1's have been a bit loose with their tolerances and will allow barrels larger than 1.2500 to be installed. On the other hand, A2's have been held tighter to accept 1.2500 maximum diameter, not over.
Thanks for the information and pictures, I don't have a A2 or M2, but am interested in the differences from the A1. Do you have pictures of the handguard? Or any thoughts on different handguards?Yes, the diameter of the clamping mechanism has changed, but so has the design of the chassis to allow the A2 hand guard and the area where it clamps several inches forward of the barrel clamping mechanism also has a diameter of exactly 1.250 inches so the old trick that I used to do Buying a non-tapered 1.250 inch straight blank is no longer advisableView attachment 8407261View attachment 8407263
ThanksIt's just the MLOK style handguard that goes on the A2/M2 with 4 tiny screws. I think it's proprietary but I'm not sure. Complete redesign from the A1 with no cross-compatibility. At least you don't need the special tool to swap it. Would be very simple to make an aftermarket one that would bolt right on teh same way the stock one on the A2 does
I have to ask, what clip-on system are you using?
Sorry, I’m only answering wall related questions.I have to ask, what clip-on system are you using?
Are those 8x12 blocks? Hard to gauge size with the DTA. Were the blocks MUSA or Chinesium?Sorry, I’m only answering wall related questions.
It’s a pulsar krypton 2. Has been decent
Yeah 8x12, whatever concrete they use for them here. 40m worth. Was a fun week and a half.Are those 8x12 blocks? Hard to gauge size with the DTA. Were the blocks MUSA or Chinesium?
What is the thread pitch on the 375 cheytac muzzle brake for mounting a suppressor ?
.375 CT | .408 CT | .416 Barret | .50 BMG | |
Barrel Length | 29" | 29" | 29" | 29" |
Barrel Twist | 1:10.5 | 1:13 | 1:13 | 1:15 |
Muzzle Thread Pitch | M22x1.5 - 6H | M22x1.5 - 6H | M25x1.5 - 6H | M25x1.5 - 6H |
Weight | 19.5lb | 20.35lb | 20.35lb | 19.9lb |
Length Overall | 45" | 45" | 45.75" | 45.75" |
Magazine Capacity | 5 | 5 | 5 | 5 |
Range | 2750m | 2550m | 2300m | 2200m |
Action | Bolt Action | Bolt Action | Bolt Action |
I was asking about the brake, not the barrel threads.
.375 CT.408 CT .416 Barret .50 BMG Barrel Length 29" 29" 29" 29" Barrel Twist 1:10.5 1:13 1:13 1:15 Muzzle Thread Pitch M22x1.5 - 6H M22x1.5 - 6H M25x1.5 - 6H M25x1.5 - 6H Weight 19.5lb 20.35lb 20.35lb 19.9lb Length Overall 45" 45" 45.75" 45.75" Magazine Capacity 5 5 5 5 Range 2750m 2550m 2300m 2200m Action Bolt Action Bolt Action Bolt Action
Doesn't the brake screw on the muzzle?I was asking about the brake, not the barrel threads.
I think this is what he is referring to..Doesn't the brake screw on the muzzle?
Which it shows M22 x 1.5 threads.
I must have missed something.
Thanks!I think this is what he is referring to..
Ha ..... The "Toy" rifles are in fact the most accurate i have owned and used...and trust me i have had some very exotic rifles and custom builds..I once had two barrels made by a very prominent maker that told me he didn't think that "toy" rifles, as he called the then new DTA SRS bullpup, were up to the task of shooting 1000 yards accurately.