i have switched calibers shot and went back to my previous caliber and still been zero'd its repeatable
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Official (DTA) SRS, HTI, Covert, Hunter Thread
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I know the zero shift is, but are the harmonics going to stay the same? When you find a load, will that load still shoot 1/4 MOA if you keep taking the barrel off and on?
Really? If the zero shift is repeatable, you'd think the harmonics would stay the same. I have 4 conversions and all have shot consistently between changes using the same loads - no drift. The way the barrels index and require consistent torque (not to mention a higher than average rigidity) probably plays the key role in that repeatability. Otherwise I think you would have heard a lot of people harping about that back on page 1 a few years ago.
I've been shooting my SRS with my .338 Lapua can on it. The can is a bit heavy but I'm getting outstanding groups from 3 of the 4 cals I shoot with it- .338BR, .338LM, 6.5X47 lapua. The 510 whisper won't fit through the can and I've never used any good quality bullets in this cal. I'm shooting military resized API and tracer and they aren't quite as accurate as the matchkings I shoot in the others.
Frank
I can vouch for this as well, I have 4 calibers DTA/SAC barrels and 1 of them is a covert, 3 cans from TBAC. I switch barrels/cans often and wouldn't you know it.... They all repeat, and not just once in a while.... EVERYTIME. I just log what my scope zero is reset the turrets for that caliber on my PR and go shoot heck I even take a couple with me when I go out to shoot and change in the field! Like Dog states if it was an issue I doubt DTA would have such a following and a huge waiting list to buy their product I know I wouldn't have kept it and bought other conversions if it was an issue. THEY JUST SHOOT! Buy the way I use my 338 can on my 7WSM & 260 and 30 can on my CM and my 308 covert
Sully
Sully
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Creature,
Try removing the can and thread adapter and test for accuracy. Thread adapters are not recommended because the cause tolerance stacking and adds anothe interface that can shoot loose and very highly increasing the chances of baffle strikes. If you are running a can with a different thread pitch we recommend having a smith rethread your barrel.
Try removing the can and thread adapter and test for accuracy. Thread adapters are not recommended because the cause tolerance stacking and adds anothe interface that can shoot loose and very highly increasing the chances of baffle strikes. If you are running a can with a different thread pitch we recommend having a smith rethread your barrel.
I wish I could fire one of these rifles. I'm a kid so I can't afford one yet but maybe one day I will have a 338 lapua with a titanium suppressor and a S&B scope 
. Or someone willing to let a 14 yr old kid shoot a dta in oregon and In driving distance well then I'll be more than happy to try it out
. Or someone willing to let a 14 yr old kid shoot a dta in oregon and In driving distance well then I'll be more than happy to try it out
I'm on the waitlist for a Covert A-1 and was wondering about optics. Being the Covert is so short I would think the blast from the muzzle would damage the scope. Anyone have issues with muzzle blast?
EDIT: Bought a Bushnell Elite Tactical XRS 4.5-30x50 H59 as it is 10.2" OAL.
EDIT: Bought a Bushnell Elite Tactical XRS 4.5-30x50 H59 as it is 10.2" OAL.
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Nope, for a couple reasons in my case. First, my scope's objective end goes all the way to the very end of the covert handguard, but it's got a 4" sunshade ARD, so technically the lens is "protected" from the blast. Second, my only short barrel has a brake on it, directing the blast laterally, not omnidirectional or up towards the lens.
Does anyone know where I can get an HTI 34mm 20 MOA scope mount?
DTA says 3 months, euro has none in stock.
DTA says 3 months, euro has none in stock.
I went through this issue about a month ago. What i ended up doing was going to their "dealers" page ( Dealers - Desert Tactical Arms ) and went down the list calling/emailing them. Ryker Arms ended up having the DTA rings I needed.
Thanks for the info. Spoke with Russ today and he was very helpful. We came up with a game plan to figure out the problem. I'm gonna head to the range tomorrow to test it.
I wish I could fire one of these rifles. I'm a kid so I can't afford one yet but maybe one day I will have a 338 lapua with a titanium suppressor and a S&B scope
You can shoot mine if you ever make it to Central Indiana....Ti can and all.
dang you must be pretty thankful for a weapon like that. I mean I have a lot of guns but I'm now moving towards more advance custom builds and precision long range shooting
The best part about a DTA is that you can sell off several other guns/scopes to buy one multi-barrel kit and still have the same versatility.
Well I called EVERYONE on DTA dealer list and NO one has an HTI 34mm scope mount.
If someone is looking to get rid of one of these please PM me, I will pay top dollar.
If someone is looking to get rid of one of these please PM me, I will pay top dollar.
I am sure there answer is somewhere in these 77 pages, but I am curious what the optimum optic is for an SRS covert. I have one coming, .308 and .338 kits. Most of my shooting will be -500 yards but I still would like the ability to go out to 1k+ here and there. budget is around 2000-2500. what are you all using? thanks!
I'm going to get a nightforce ATACR, I think it's compactness is going to look awesome on a covert!
That ATACR seems pretty nice. Sounds like the only complaint is the crosshair width. Which for me at closer range should not be an issue.
I would go with the March FFP 3-24x42. Till the end of the month they are on sale @ Kelby's. 2K for the non-illuminated and 2.5k for illumination. fireguyty uses one on his DTA for comps.
His review. http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...opes/112832-review-march-f-3-24-x-42-ffp.html
I personally would never spend 2k+ for a 2FP optic.
His review. http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...opes/112832-review-march-f-3-24-x-42-ffp.html
I personally would never spend 2k+ for a 2FP optic.
Just picked up my first new (to me) SRS and have a quick question. The safety seems very difficult to operate, so much so that I my fingers hurt from pushing on it. Has anyone else had this problem and is there a fix short of sending it off?
I have both the srs and HTI and I have never ha a problem with my safety being hard to move. Both of them are nice and smooth, it could be dirty somehow. I would call DTA and ask them, they have been very nice and super helpful with any questions I have had. I am currently waiting on 375 conversion which should be here in next week or so!!!
Good luck and they will fix it and enjoy the srs.
Good luck and they will fix it and enjoy the srs.
My DTA was made in July of 2012, and my safety is super easy to operate. I wonder if it was a known issue with earlier models?
For some reason I think the safety (possibly earlier models) are susceptible to potential problems. I don't want to overspeak, because I have asked the question in the past and it didn't appear as though many have had this problem. I have been looking at the SRS for some time and while researching, I fondled one at a gun shop in NC. I am still unclear whether it was a Gen 1 or Gen 2, but it felt "smaller" and the quality seemed questionable. Anyways, this rifle had safety issues. I could not operate the safety; however, did not really try to force it. To my knowledge it was new, but the shop did mention that they had changed the chassis. Fast forward and I finally pulled the trigger and picked up my first SRS. It's a Gen 2 and I couldn't be happier. The safety works just fine, its nice and smooth. I made the switch from a AIAW, which obviously is a fantastic rifle, but I felt the SRS might fit my wants/needs better. I just received it and a report will follow, but so far I don't feel at any disadvantage with the SRS.
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I am sorry to be picky but the DTA is a fairly new system and It doesn't have the history to judge it or a lengthy pedigree to look back on that the other rifles have (trg or aiaw)-Yet. I am very seriously considering a SRS or a trg or aiaw.
Can someone answer these picky questions that I have?
Do I really need a full quad rail on a bolt gun?
The rail to receiver fit looks sloppy in pictures?
The skin fit on the bottom of the butt stock looks like it has a wide gap - could interfere with a soft bag while shooting?
Firing pin hole looks huge -- primer issues?
I have 33" arms, is the LOP to long?
thank you, I just want to make sure that this is the rifle for me - I very much want it to be.
Can someone answer these picky questions that I have?
Do I really need a full quad rail on a bolt gun?
The rail to receiver fit looks sloppy in pictures?
The skin fit on the bottom of the butt stock looks like it has a wide gap - could interfere with a soft bag while shooting?
Firing pin hole looks huge -- primer issues?
I have 33" arms, is the LOP to long?
thank you, I just want to make sure that this is the rifle for me - I very much want it to be.
Do I really need a full quad rail on a bolt gun?
A: if you aren't goin to use it get a A1 which has a modular forearm
The rail to receiver fit looks sloppy in pictures?
A: the rail to receiver fit on mine is great, nice and tight lockup with no flex
The skin fit on the bottom of the butt stock looks like it has a wide gap - could interfere with a soft bag while shooting?
A: interfaces fine, I have AI rifles too and the GAP is no bigger then any other rifle with skins
Firing pin hole looks huge -- primer issues?
A: Never heard of any
I have 33" arms, is the LOP to long?
A: it has a adjustable spacer system you should be good
A: if you aren't goin to use it get a A1 which has a modular forearm
The rail to receiver fit looks sloppy in pictures?
A: the rail to receiver fit on mine is great, nice and tight lockup with no flex
The skin fit on the bottom of the butt stock looks like it has a wide gap - could interfere with a soft bag while shooting?
A: interfaces fine, I have AI rifles too and the GAP is no bigger then any other rifle with skins
Firing pin hole looks huge -- primer issues?
A: Never heard of any
I have 33" arms, is the LOP to long?
A: it has a adjustable spacer system you should be good
I second what Joe said. The gap between my skins at the pistol grip is a little wider that elsewhere and given it annoys me a little, it doesn't cause any negative operational issues. My AI had all the options (quick adj. butt, and cheek, folder, etc.) and I think I like the simplicity of the SRS better. I like having no adjustments and it fits me great. I have all the spacers in the butt. My sight picture with lack of cheek adjustment is also perfect. I didn't believe it before, but I am now a believer that I didn't need all that crap!
Hey Dealers!!!-----does anybody have an Aluminum Replacement Buttpad Mount in stock??
I ordered one from DTA on April 5 and Madison (great sales girl at DTA) said that I would be lucky to see shipment within 3-4 weeks, as of today. So this could going on for awhile. I realize there is a "shortage" of everything gun related these days, but when you need parts to get your gun running right, it's FRUSTRATING!!
Thanks to anyone that might have one in stock.
-Mike
I ordered one from DTA on April 5 and Madison (great sales girl at DTA) said that I would be lucky to see shipment within 3-4 weeks, as of today. So this could going on for awhile. I realize there is a "shortage" of everything gun related these days, but when you need parts to get your gun running right, it's FRUSTRATING!!
Thanks to anyone that might have one in stock.
-Mike
Guys,
Is there a dealer in the Bay Area that has one in stock. I would love to physically handle one before pulling the trigger so to speak?
Regarding the DTA LOP - Most stock rifles have a LOP that is 1" to long for me, I didn't see the minimum LOP on the site.
Is there a dealer in the Bay Area that has one in stock. I would love to physically handle one before pulling the trigger so to speak?
Regarding the DTA LOP - Most stock rifles have a LOP that is 1" to long for me, I didn't see the minimum LOP on the site.
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The Gun Vault in Mountain View is a DTA Dealer. Also, I will be at the Santa Clara County Field Sports Park 200Y range this Sunday morning with my SRS.
store owner at Bullseye in san rafael has an SRS A1 on display, not for sale but you can check it out.
Thanks for the suggestions on the difficult safety. Removed the skins after work today and found the trigger loose in the chassis. Cleaned everything up, tighened and safety worked great. Put the skins back on and lightly tightened bolts and could barely move it again. Skins back off, removed a little material from the skins and it is better but still hard. Right now loc-tite'd on couple of bolts around trigger and didn't tighten them and safety is workable. Seems to me the skins are putting some pressure on the safety mechanism and binding a little. Any suggestions on how to get a little clearance for the safety to move freely without screwing anything up.
I'm reading though the enitre thread and found a response that might help you: http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...-hti-covert-hunter-thread-46.html#post1950596
Hi guys,
I am looking getting a DTA but i'm tossing up the pros and cons of a SRS vs Covert. I'm looking from a pure accuracy point of view, not mounting NV.
Primarily it will be a long range platform in 338lm, however I do want the ability to run a fast twist 308 as well. I don't want to buy 2 handguards.
My question is to you guys running 26in barrels in your coverts. How do you go with stability on a bipod, are you able to mount it far enough forward from the rifles pivot point?. How does it handle? does it feel balanced and supported. If anyone has tested, a SRS vs covert accuracy comparison with 26in barrel i'd be very interested to hear the results.
I am looking getting a DTA but i'm tossing up the pros and cons of a SRS vs Covert. I'm looking from a pure accuracy point of view, not mounting NV.
Primarily it will be a long range platform in 338lm, however I do want the ability to run a fast twist 308 as well. I don't want to buy 2 handguards.
My question is to you guys running 26in barrels in your coverts. How do you go with stability on a bipod, are you able to mount it far enough forward from the rifles pivot point?. How does it handle? does it feel balanced and supported. If anyone has tested, a SRS vs covert accuracy comparison with 26in barrel i'd be very interested to hear the results.
3-4 months is tooooo long. Oh, well I guess you got to wait, right?
have you paid yet.........cause I have.
I have literally fired every conceivable variation of the SRS/Covert platform. 16" through 28" barrels in both platforms, yes I shot a 16" 308 through an SRS handguard, I don't suggest it, LOL. I have also shot the 26" barrels out of the covert and the covert happens to be my preferred platform with a 7wsm barrel for hunting.
basically, my point is, there is no degradation in accuracy and the balance point of the covert is still behind the bipod with a 26" barrel and suppressor mounted.
I just received my srs last week and during dry fire the small cap on the end of the bolt in front of the firing pin shot out, followed by the firing pin! Has anybody else had this happen?
I started out with an SRS full length and have since replaced the handguard with the covert unit. I can't find any reason that its not better. I don't use thermal or night vision on my rifle and that is the only thing I can see that would make the longer handguard helpful. The bipod is fine mounted at the front of the covert handguard with all the barrels I've got from 17" on up to the 26" .338LM and 6.5X47. I don't normally shoot offhand or I'd probably make a short handguard with no rails at all. As it is the rails don't hurt anything but just aren't necessary.
Hope that helps with the decision making.
Frank
Help! I have a Gen I SRS with three conversions. Two work perfectly, but with my 7wsm setup I am getting 100% light primer strikes with no ignition. My question is can someone tell me what the firing pin length is supposed to be in the .300 win bolt? Are the firing pins all the same length and interchangeable? I disassembled all three bolts, and measured each firing pin and came up with three different lengths, so I would guess that each one is supposed to be different. Or is the difference in lengths my problem? Any input would be greatly appreciated.
I SRS to Covert bubba'd my handguard. Pics when she gets back from Brothers Hydrographics, hopefully this week or next.
