Thanks Creature. I tinkered with the firing springs and pins from the other two bolts. No combination does any more than a light strike.
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Official (DTA) SRS, HTI, Covert, Hunter Thread
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DTA produces three bolts - .308, .300 win, and 338. The firing pins I have are only different by .0025. But even the longest of the three won't strike hard enough. I have tried every combo I can make from the other bolts. There must be another culprit.
If your bolt is having light strike problems we will repair or replace it under warranty. It should not be doing that.
Thanks for the reply Russ, covert could be a winner. Going to do a day on the range with a few setups to make the final decision
Nevermind.....DTA impresses me AGAIN!!!! I got a shipping notice today. My part is enroute.
Even in this crazy-frenzy we find ourselves in, DTA takes care of their family/customers!!!
Thank you, DTA!
Just got a call from EuroOptic today that they are starting to get some new material fom DTA-no new chassies yet, but they're beginning to role in! Yahoo
I've been planning a short 18-19" .338LM as a second barrel for my SRS to complement my standard 26" for a number of reasons. However, based on my recent experience at this match, I'm rethinking the idea and instead considering cutting down my 26" to be the short barrel and having a new 32" 1:9 built as my ELR barrel for shooting 300s. So my question is about the short barrel: as long as I'm still shooting 250s and 285s, the standard 1:10 should suffice in a short barrel, right?
Now to get another Gen1 barrel extension and brake - hopefully those aren't back ordered too!
Now to get another Gen1 barrel extension and brake - hopefully those aren't back ordered too!
I had the exact same problem with mine. Tried everything, including swapping out bolt bodies...to no avail. Finally figured it out with my smith, he welded a small pin into the back of the firing pin and smoothed it down to increase the length of the firing pin by 10 thousandths....works like a charm now.
Cool, I ordered a 32" 338 blank for myself a couple weeks ago. I think I went 1-9.5", but I think 1-10 will be fine in any length for a 300 grain.
My 300 load with my 26" was 2730 fps with 89.9 grains of H1000. I'm gonna run the same load and see what my gains will be. If its not at least 2800, I'm gonna cut it down to 26". I went with a heavy palma......its gonna be a heavy bastard at 32".......
Let me know what you end up with on all barrel lengths. We should have mine machined in 2-4 weeks. I will keep you updated as well.
Ty
Hakan,
What is the correct mount for the US optics SN25 5x25x56 on the DTA srs a1 rifle? Thnx.
Mine fits perfect with the DTA 30 MOA. Lots of people thought I would have to modify the rear ring, but it was not needed. I run the 2" sunshade, and it just barley clears.
Ty
I'm getting 2702fps using 92grs of H1000 with the 300gr SMK in that 26" .338 barrel I got from you. Primers aren't flattening and the bolt isn't locking up on me so I think the load is GTG(it is close to max though). Super accurate too. I shot a 5 shot group yesterday at 100yds through the chronograph and you could barely tell it was more than one shot. Sub 1/4 MOA. One of the most accurate rifles I've ever fired.
I just took some measurements last night preparing for my NF Beast to arrive soon. I will be mounting it on the covert with the 16" barrel with QD brake attached. It looks like the end of the scope will be just a tad past the rail system. Will the muzzle blast do any damage to the scope? I have a DTA can on order and it was supposed to be shipped 7 weeks ago to my FFL, but y'all know how that's probably not going to ship anytime in the near future.
Also, when I attached the brake, it's not 100% lined up correctly. It's like 98%. It took my 400 different spacer combinations just to get it to 98%. Does this effect accuracy, or will it just effect my ADHD knowing its not perfect.
Also, when I attached the brake, it's not 100% lined up correctly. It's like 98%. It took my 400 different spacer combinations just to get it to 98%. Does this effect accuracy, or will it just effect my ADHD knowing its not perfect.
FWIW - a NF 3-15x50 F1 (or 5.5-22x50) with the sunshade attached will be close enough to the muzzle on a Covert (16" barrel) to get flash marks on the underside. It mostly rubs right off, but if that will bother you, remove the sunshade and it will be GTG. As I recall, the Beast is a tick longer than either of those scopes, but it ought to be ok with the sunshade off. Below is a pic with the 5.5-22 mounted (sunshade is off). It has an 18" SAC barrel installed, but was fine with the 16" also.
I would think the sun shade might offer some more protection for the front of the scope.
Also, I can't remember who it was that said they did a bubba'd covert conversion on their SRS but I would be interested to know how it turned out and how you did it. If anyone else knows, would there any problems with chopping the hand guard to make compatible with covert 16" barrels? Would it be best to remove the hand guard to do this or could it be done with it attached to the rifle(with barrel remove obviously).
Also, I can't remember who it was that said they did a bubba'd covert conversion on their SRS but I would be interested to know how it turned out and how you did it. If anyone else knows, would there any problems with chopping the hand guard to make compatible with covert 16" barrels? Would it be best to remove the hand guard to do this or could it be done with it attached to the rifle(with barrel remove obviously).
Anyone know when A1 parts will become available? I'd like to get the new butpad and possiblly forearm for my gen1.
FWIW - a NF 3-15x50 F1 (or 5.5-22x50) with the sunshade attached will be close enough to the muzzle on a Covert (16" barrel) to get flash marks on the underside. It mostly rubs right off, but if that will bother you, remove the sunshade and it will be GTG. As I recall, the Beast is a tick longer than either of those scopes, but it ought to be ok with the sunshade off. Below is a pic with the 5.5-22 mounted (sunshade is off). It has an 18" SAC barrel installed, but was fine with the 16" also.
What kind of rings are those? Do they make ones for 34mm tubes and how's the height for check weld?
FWIW - a NF 3-15x50 F1 (or 5.5-22x50) with the sunshade attached will be close enough to the muzzle on a Covert (16" barrel) to get flash marks on the underside. It mostly rubs right off, but if that will bother you, remove the sunshade and it will be GTG. As I recall, the Beast is a tick longer than either of those scopes, but it ought to be ok with the sunshade off. Below is a pic with the 5.5-22 mounted (sunshade is off). It has an 18" SAC barrel installed, but was fine with the 16" also.
Liking that cheek rest for the DTA! Where can I get one of these?
BigJim,
That is an issue that I have not seen before please return the bolt for inspection and repair.
That is an issue that I have not seen before please return the bolt for inspection and repair.
Mount is a LaRue LT-158. It has 10 MOA cant and places the optic 1.44" above the rail. The LT-158 can be had in 1", 30 mm, 34 mm, or 35 mm sizes. I find both the cant and height to be just about perfect for the Covert. Obviously, that mount would be quite tall for most bolt guns, but it works pretty on a flat top rail system like the DTA has, and 10 MOA is more than enough cant for the distances I typically shoot.
The buttstock cover w cheekpad came from Brian Muoio, who had a business called "Tactical Textile". I did a search but couldn't find his webpage anymore, so I don't know if he is still making them. I had him make two, actually. One is the one pictured above with the cheekpad; the other is simply a buttstock pad without the cheekpad. That is the one I usually use. You can see a picture of both on p. 51 of this thread, about 2/3 way down the page.
The buttstock cover w cheekpad came from Brian Muoio, who had a business called "Tactical Textile". I did a search but couldn't find his webpage anymore, so I don't know if he is still making them. I had him make two, actually. One is the one pictured above with the cheekpad; the other is simply a buttstock pad without the cheekpad. That is the one I usually use. You can see a picture of both on p. 51 of this thread, about 2/3 way down the page.
I re-seated the piece in front of the pin and tapped it in with a nylon punch. I then dry fired if some more and inspected after each shot and saw that the cap came out a little further each time I pulled the trigger. I spoke with Josh and he was very helpful. I've sent it in for inspection. Thanks.
Also some pictures of a Spuhr mount on a DTA would be great! especially if anyone has their cantilevel,
Thanks
Thanks
Looks good, you can see the bubble level clearly when behind the rifle?
I'm trying to decide between a NF 50mm or ATACR, will a 56mm look to big on the gun? I'm worried with the A1's smaller forend it's going to look like a spotting scope up there!
I'm trying to decide between a NF 50mm or ATACR, will a 56mm look to big on the gun? I'm worried with the A1's smaller forend it's going to look like a spotting scope up there!
Yeah with both eyes open, you can focus on both your sight picture and the bubble. I think it works well. Objective size is up to you? I don't think a 56mm would look bad. Plenty of guys are running the 5-25x56 PMIIs. Look at past pages in this thread and there is a user who has a FDE covert with a FDE 5-25x56. The photo is in his sig. line as well. That might give you some perspective.
Good luck.
Good luck.
I have always used a stock pack with quite a few spacers to be able to get a cheek weld. Previous to owning my DTA, I had a GAP with a Manners T4-A and had the adjustable cheek piece almost all the way up (just low enough that the bolt would still fit into the cutout) and still used a stock pack to get perfectly aligned.
Now I've got the DTA with a S&B 5-25 mounted up in a Spuhr. LOVE IT!! The cheek height is almost perfect - I need maybe 1/8 of an inch more, but haven't bothered since its so close...
Like it has been said before: with both eyes open, it is easy to transition my focus from the crosshairs to the level (right eye and left eye) without moving my head at all. Hakan nailed it with his mounts!
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FWIW - a NF 3-15x50 F1 (or 5.5-22x50) with the sunshade attached will be close enough to the muzzle on a Covert (16" barrel) to get flash marks on the underside. It mostly rubs right off, but if that will bother you, remove the sunshade and it will be GTG. As I recall, the Beast is a tick longer than either of those scopes, but it ought to be ok with the sunshade off. Below is a pic with the 5.5-22 mounted (sunshade is off). It has an 18" SAC barrel installed, but was fine with the 16" also.
Thanks for posting these pics. The Beast is 15+" so it is quite a bit bigger than this one. It will be hanging over the edge even without the sun shade. I am mostly worried about damage to the glass. Maybe I will run it with the sunshade to protect the glass, but it will look rediculous. I like the idea of cutting down an SRS hand hard. 2" longer than the Covert should do it. It would be a perfect fit with the DTA QD .338 brake. I may have to look into that.
FWIW - according to the NF website, the Beast is 15.37" long, the 5.5-22x50 (shown above on the Covert) is 15.2" long. I've had no issues running the 5.5-22 (minus the sunshade) and I can't imagine the extra .17" on the Beast would create a problem unless you had it mounted much further forward than mine. Obviously, the best thing to do is mount it and see where you are.
Another option to consider would be to attach a muzzle brake to the barrel. I use to have the "original" DTA muzzle brake mounted on the 16" barrel, which would keep some of the muzzle blast away from the end of the scope. It was also useful for installing/removing that short barrel; however, I took it off because it really wasn't needed on a .308. Anyhow, hope you get it all squared away with no issues.
Another option to consider would be to attach a muzzle brake to the barrel. I use to have the "original" DTA muzzle brake mounted on the 16" barrel, which would keep some of the muzzle blast away from the end of the scope. It was also useful for installing/removing that short barrel; however, I took it off because it really wasn't needed on a .308. Anyhow, hope you get it all squared away with no issues.
Where on the rail have you guys been placing your bipod? Why did you pick that location?
I have a Atlas and have been running it out towards the end of my SRS and then folding it backwards. I'm seeing a few of you guys running yours a few inches back and was wondering why.
I have a Atlas and have been running it out towards the end of my SRS and then folding it backwards. I'm seeing a few of you guys running yours a few inches back and was wondering why.
It seems to be the general consensus that running your bipod halfway up the rail does the best job of balancing your rifle through the shot getting you back on target the quickest.
Guys,
We just posted up a new video showing some behind the scenes footage of the SRS rifles in production DTA Factory, check it out. Designed and Made in America baby.
SRS Rifle: The Making Of - YouTube
We just posted up a new video showing some behind the scenes footage of the SRS rifles in production DTA Factory, check it out. Designed and Made in America baby.
SRS Rifle: The Making Of - YouTube
