Official (DTA) SRS, HTI, Covert, Hunter Thread

#10,651
Same. Rethread your barrel. I did use a delta p thread adapter 3/4-24 to 5/8-24 for a hunt once ... 6.5saum barrel. I was waiting on my dt338 can and used that adapter with a silencer co hybrid. It worked. No baffles strike ect. But I would recommend a rethread if you use 5/8. All my barrels are 3/4 and desert techs can works great.
 
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#10,652
I have seen the XCaliber adapter and the Delta P, but it doesn't seem like they are really available anymore. Thats honestly fine because I think that it would be best to rethread to avoid some type of tolerance stacking issue.

Any ideas on the pitch/length of the cheek riser screws (I need to get some black ones)?
 
#10,653
Rethread the can to the larger diameter. The amount of metal removed from the muzzle can affect the bore of the muzzle. Maybe not a lot and it may not happen on every barrel but it can. Anytime you remove material from the barrel you change the way the internal stresses affect everything.
There is a reason many barrel makers tell you that fluting will void your warranty. Improperly done it can cause your barrel to bend. I have seen a number of barrels that were threaded or that had the thread diameter reduced to fit smaller cans. One thing I noticed on a majority of these was that the copper fouling ended right about where the threaded portion started. When you remove the material from the barrel to go to a smaller thread it relieves the stress and allows the bore to open. When you see the copper fouling stop abruptly it tells you that something is wrong. The bore has opened up. This can allow gas to leak past the bullet and cause erosion at the one point you can least afford it for an accurate rifle....the muzzle.
You bought the DT for accuracy and its not a cheap rifle. Degrading it by reducing the muzzle thread makes no sense to me. I know a lot of guys have done it but that doesn't make it any better....just means more guys willing to compromise their rifles. The bigger the muzzle thread the better off you are from the standpoint of accuracy and it also keeps the barrel stiffer and stronger at the point where you need it. If you have to go to a different thread on the can get the can threaded to match your barrel.

Frank
 
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#10,655
Finally got my 16" barrel! I have been wanting to have the option to convert my A1 to a lighter weight covert ever since I bought this rifle last year. I traded into a covert handrail and bought an unfired 26" Special Purpose Rifles 6.5x47 conversion here on the hide. I sent it over to Mark at SAC to cut it down to 16", thread it and time a TBAC break and give it deep flutes on the barrel and shank to cut as much weight out as possible. After receiving it I sent the Handguard, mag and Barrel to Daniel over at Primal Finish to match the Mirage Cerakote I already had on the rifle.
Mark at SAC did a fantastic job, after cutting the barrel down he weighed it before cutting the deep flutes after fluting he said it cut off .55lbs. I weighed the barrel before sending it off and after cutting it down and flutting it went from 5.28 lbs to 3.68 lbs so it saved 1.6 lbs all in! The rifle with mag, scope, TBAC Ultra 7 and RRS rail went from 15.3 lbs to 13.1 lbs.
I can't say enough about Daniel over at Primal Finish his work is impeccable, the attention to detail and quality of his work is just incredible.
Here are a few pics.







 
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#10,656
Kopfjager1 said:
Right now I'm using the Kifaru universal hanger, it's too small but it works, wore it for maybe 6 miles over 2 days and 1000' elevation gain/loss, no complaints. Im not sure it would be hands free for running, but walking is no problem. I'm going to buy the Exo Mountain K2 Weapon Carrier, I saw it in store, and it looked like it would be a snug fit, but a better fit than the Kifaru, nonetheless. I do like the way the way the rifle is held under the arm and muzzle up. Safe, positive control while still being quickly accessible. Just make sure you move some of the weight to opposite side to counter the weight.
Click to expand...
Have you picked up the exo mt k2 yet if so how’s the fit? And how small was the gun bearer?
 
#10,660
Have you guys found one particular bipod to be better than others with the DT’s?
I have an SRS A-1 and have noticed it’s harder to get a really quiet sight picture than I’m used to. I’m running a newer atlas, a BT46-LW17 PSR.
I assume it’s less steady because of the bull pup design with so much weight towards the rear. Anyway, has anyone experienced anything like this and found a bipod that’s better? Maybe the 5H atlas?
Thanks
 
#10,661
odoylerules said:
Have you guys found one particular bipod to be better than others with the DT’s?
I have an SRS A-1 and have noticed it’s harder to get a really quiet sight picture than I’m used to. I’m running a newer atlas, a BT46-LW17 PSR.
I assume it’s less steady because of the bull pup design with so much weight towards the rear. Anyway, has anyone experienced anything like this and found a bipod that’s better? Maybe the 5H atlas?
Thanks
Click to expand...

I've never had a problem using my Atlas (forgive me, I don't remember which model I have on there) and getting a stable position. Are you using a rear bag or just the monopod? I have noticed I get really stable with a rear bag that conforms to the rifle, but when I use the monopod, it isn't as stable for me
 
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#10,662
odoylerules said:
Have you guys found one particular bipod to be better than others with the DT’s?
I have an SRS A-1 and have noticed it’s harder to get a really quiet sight picture than I’m used to. I’m running a newer atlas, a BT46-LW17 PSR.
I assume it’s less steady because of the bull pup design with so much weight towards the rear. Anyway, has anyone experienced anything like this and found a bipod that’s better? Maybe the 5H atlas?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Take a look at the Cyke Pod. I have used a number of bipods over the years and this one is by far the best in terms of both stability and flexibility. By flexibility, I don't mean that it flexes, I mean in the various ways it can be configured. It's not cheap, but the best rarely is.
 
#10,663
odoylerules said:
Have you guys found one particular bipod to be better than others with the DT’s?
I have an SRS A-1 and have noticed it’s harder to get a really quiet sight picture than I’m used to. I’m running a newer atlas, a BT46-LW17 PSR.
I assume it’s less steady because of the bull pup design with so much weight towards the rear. Anyway, has anyone experienced anything like this and found a bipod that’s better? Maybe the 5H atlas?
Thanks
Click to expand...
I really like the LRA F-Class, but the 5H atlas is very stable as well.
IMG_20190112_134720937_HDR.jpg
 
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#10,668
Any help with load data please pm me. I don’t want to tie up the post and piss off anyone. Thanks guys you have been great in helping me make up my mind about this kit.
 
#10,669
I have an older Covert Gen 2 with the picatinny rail. Which is the best way to get a arca swiss plate on the rear portion of the handguards?I'd rather not pay the 400$+ for a A1 handguard and the RRS plate. Mounting straight on the pic rail with the RRS Anvil isn't as stable because the center of gravity is too much forward ...
 
#10,670
st1650 said:
I have an older Covert Gen 2 with the picatinny rail. Which is the best way to get a arca swiss plate on the rear portion of the handguards?I'd rather not pay the 400$+ for a A1 handguard and the RRS plate. Mounting straight on the pic rail with the RRS Anvil isn't as stable because the center of gravity is too much forward ...
Click to expand...
You might want to check out this post.
www.snipershide.com

Arca Swiss to picatinny w/ qd on picatinny

Can anyone recommend a product? I want to have an adaptor from arca Swiss to picatinny but with a qd lever on the female picatinny side. Thanks.
www.snipershide.com www.snipershide.com
 
#10,671
#10,672
If anyone has any leads on full length keyed a1 rail let me know. Its pretty much all I need to complete the conversion from late Gen2 to "A1". Also very envious of everyone with multiple caliber conversions. I was thinking about getting a .338 conversion but am thinking that I might want a round that I can shoot through my 30 cal can... it would be for deer hunting out to about 1200y.
 
Last edited:
#10,673
midSCarolina said:
Anyone have any leads on full length keyed a1 rail let me know. Its pretty much all I need to complete the conversion from late Gen2 to "A1". Also very envious of everyone with multiple caliber conversions. I was thinking about getting a .338 conversion but am thinking that I might want a round that I can shoot through my 30 cal can... it would be for deer hunting out to about 1200y.
Click to expand...
300 Norma
 
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#10,677
jkmccoy11 said:
Does anyone have any references to cutting an srs a1 to covert length I saw a post on page 206 i am looking for more references before i start cutting
Click to expand...

What do you mean by references? Lots of people have cut their handguard, others bought a replacement handguard and now have both the full length and Covert lengths to swap as they see fit. As I recall a new handguard is in the $500 (ballpark) so cutting may be a good option for you.
 
#10,678
pinhead said:
What do you mean by references? Lots of people have cut their handguard, others bought a replacement handguard and now have both the full length and Covert lengths to swap as they see fit. As I recall a new handguard is in the $500 (ballpark) so cutting may be a good option for you.
Click to expand...
I am looking for more pictures or advice on where and how to cut I have seen 2 pictures one was a straight cut the other was cut on an angle matching the holes in the handguard
 
#10,679
Ok. Where you cut is really up to you. When I cut mine down on my Gen1 I wanted the flush cup so it ended up being slightly (1/2” maybe) longer than the A1 Covert length. You can also see the Gen1 handguard wasn’t designed to be cut in half, which is why I ended up with open portions on the end.

If you have 16” barrels you are going to want to make it Covert length or slightly shorter. If you have 18”-20” barrels then you have some flexibility.
My full size handguard is 11-9/16”, maybe someone with a Covert can post their exact length. If I were to cut mine down I’d do it at 6-3/16” which would be right before the 7th vent hole starts so I would have 6 full vents, which would also maintain the circular portion of the handguard, unlike my Gen1.

7043880
 
#10,683
Hondo1 said:
Threw together some quick loads for fire forming, very low effort and the new barrel shot great. I would definitely recommend the SAC .223 kit. I can’t wait to start load work with the fire formed brass. View attachment 7044410
Click to expand...
Come on stop teasing and show some groups. Good to hear another satisfied customer. I’m trying to sell a few things in order to afford the left nutt price tag on those. Considering they are the only ones on the planet that make the kit and they shoot so well, I guess the price could be worse.
 
#10,685
Juggerxxx said:
Come on stop teasing and show some groups. Good to hear another satisfied customer. I’m trying to sell a few things in order to afford the left nutt price tag on those. Considering they are the only ones on the planet that make the kit and they shoot so well, I guess the price could be worse.
Click to expand...

Unfortunately I didn’t take pictures of the groups, I was trying to get 100rds fire formed.
I will next time for sure.
 
#10,686
Shooting the
Juggerxxx said:
Come on stop teasing and show some groups. Good to hear another satisfied customer. I’m trying to sell a few things in order to afford the left nutt price tag on those. Considering they are the only ones on the planet that make the kit and they shoot so well, I guess the price could be worse.
Click to expand...

Shooting the nails out of a pallet @100 proved to be a lot of fun!
 
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#10,687
Anyone have hands on with the A2 yet? I'm looking to check out a DT rifle, but don't know if I should just grab an A1 used at a discount or pony up for the A2. Is the hype real on the A2? Worth the price difference vs a used A1?
 
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#10,692
That's going to vary by barrel so much that it may not be very useful. I would either:
1. Buy some Hornaday Match for the initial range trip. The 140s shoot lights out in my (custom Benchmark) barrel. Also, the barrel is going to break in and speed up in the first 100-200 rounds. Hand loads shot now may not do the same thing later.
or:
2. Load some up and leave them seated long. Then take a quick measurement and re-seat when you get the barrel.
 
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#10,693
SupressYourself said:
That's going to vary by barrel so much that it may not be very useful. I would either:
1. Buy some Hornaday Match for the initial range trip. The 140s shoot lights out in my (custom Benchmark) barrel. Also, the barrel is going to break in and speed up in the first 100-200 rounds. Hand loads shot now may not do the same thing later.
or:
2. Load some up and leave them seated long. Then take a quick measurement and re-seat when you get the barrel.
Click to expand...

Very good points. That’s a good idea for loading them long and re-seat them. I’ll go that route. Thanks!
 
#10,697
I need some help with my covert, I had it cerakoted months back and after that I have had all kind of issues with the trigger coming off the gun and I cannot find where these two small screws went.....


in order to put the trigger back on do I just tighten the Allen screw? Any idea where these two small screws go?
 

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#10,699
Got out for a little bit this afternoon. Finally had a chance to shoot the DT SRS A-1 in .308. Today was not a disappointment and shot it side by side with my AIAX. Getting used to the ergonomics of the rifle but a blast to shoot. Here are the results:
IMG_7826.jpeg
IMG_7822.jpeg
 
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