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ORIGIN Orders
- Thread starter jackinfl
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I called Bighorn this afternoon and explained what I thought was going on. They agreed it sounded like cock on close. They asked me to wait till January to send it in and they’ll time it for me. Should be 50-75$
Do you have to send the whole action or just the bolt? I only asked because I might have to send mine in and it's already barreled
King, it's how the bolt/action trigger interface, I think you should plan on sending it all in (barrel not needed) but you could send it if you have no way to take if off.
Idahoorion
Yep I’m using the 10 rounders without binder plate. No problems at all, but I am using it with a mdt chassis.
I had a local Smith time my bolt. It’s so much smoother now when closing the bolt. Worth the 40 bucks I paid.
Post 680. I talked to bighorn this week and they wanted me to wait for around the beginning of the year to send it in. I have the Huber 2 stage and know exactly what your talking about.
That sucks. So much waiting to have an issue. Bummer. It’s going to be hard to not shoot it when the barrel gets here. Did they say it will cost us money?
I might just find a local Smith to do it if I’m going to have to pay. Doesn’t make sense that they wouldn’t just fix it with how many people are having similar problems.
Were you charged for this service? I’m having problems with my huber and I might be charged $50-75 for the work? I haven’t even had the action a week...
Welcome to lego precision builds
You didnt want to pay a smith for a full build. What did you expect
uh idk.
but to just expect every trigger. and i dont even mean say every TT Diamond, or every Huber. to work just magically is wrong. some TT diamonds may work, maybe one doesnt. maybe every Timney does work though.
we want these triggers with 6oz pullweight and 10 different adjustments and no travel and just expect them to work with everything. yeah it'd be great if they did. but ill take the extra work/cost it takes to get them functioning lights out versus the bullshit feel of AR triggers
it's not only the origin that does this. it's not uncommon. the action maker cant spend $25,000 or more making sure every single trigger works with their action. they have to assume every single trigger model is made to the same exacting tolerances as the sample they have. and that's insane
this isn't a bug. and it's not a mistake
the trigger is your interface and it's a complex thing. spend the time or money to make it right. or go buy a factory R700 and have a 3 pound trigger cause that's what you'll get
this would be no different than blaming every trigger maker cause it doesn't work with your specific bolt and action. while i'm all for the age of precision rifles we are in now and what you can do with $2k, i understand what can happen when you piece this shit together
Defiance, Stiller, Surgeon, Curtis, Ultimatum, ARC, BAT, Kelbly have all had interference issues with at least one or more trigger(s) on the market.
Just because it's a 700 "clone" doesn't mean it keeps the same specs and tolerances a 700 action does. All those action manufacturers have different tolerances from each other, just like every trigger and every chassis/ stock, it's not always a one size fits all and an action maker can not account for all the physical differences between every component available on the market.
stop blaming the action maker
its a stacking of tolerances and a large variance in design, of both the triggers and actions. its the name of the game now
if you're worried about spending $50 to have sometime time your trigger then you're in the wrong game
Go read the Nucleus thread. You’ll find it’s not isolated to this action.
As I understand it when you give your parts to a gunsmith he’s going to time your bolt/trigger. When you and I do a LEGO gun for the first time, we don’t know this and are surprised. I’m not worried about it. If I gotta pay Bighorn to make my particular action work with my particular trigger, so be it.
We are not here to hold your hand. If you have been around a little you would have seen multiple actions go through the same issues. A little research on here and I'm sure you will find what you are looking for. You were proposed a solution. If you dont like the solution then sell your action and go elsewhere. You cant expect people to work on your stuff for free. If you are not capable then perhaps you should pay a builder to assemble your rifle correctly.
You’re bitching about something that is no fault of bighorn. Multiple people have told you the problem, yet you want bighorn to fix it for free. You’re being unreasonable. Sack up and pay the 50 bucks or whatever it costs. I believe in the nucleus thread, Ted mentioned something about trying to get a standard implemented so this very thing doesn’t happen.
You hit the nail on the head. Every trigger is different. The only consistency with Remington 700 drop in triggers is the pin holes that connect it to the action. There's nothing us as action manufactures can do about the inconsistencies. If every trigger was made exactly the same, what's the point of 10 guys competing for a share of the market? Springs are different, sears are different, adjustments are different. Everything is different and that's a good thing for the market. Everyone like options, right?
We're happy to help with any functionality issues you may have. When it comes to trigger timing, that's not a functionality issue, that's one of those "feel" things that's not quantifiable. We offer timing as an additional service, but so do most gunsmith's that are suited for single operation jobs rather than large scale production. If you want us to time your action to your trigger, we will...but it's an additional service as it would be anywhere else.
Thank you - Ray
I'll have to get in touch with you guys about timing my action, it's pretty slick just a little stiff on the close
My Origin is butter on open and close after a $40 and 30 minute timing job performed locally by a reputable smith. Slapped a barrel on, half ass loaded some DTACS, and she shoots consistent holes touching at 100 during break in. The cost to time is small patatoes for the user interface and pleasure of bolt manipulation.. My full custom Stiller don’t run as smooth.... jus sayin.
Guess I could’ve spent the $40 on booze, but my return on investment would’ve been very short lived.
Guess I could’ve spent the $40 on booze, but my return on investment would’ve been very short lived.
As noted the trigger thing is pretty much a given on any action. Be it Tempest, TL3/SR3, Impact, Stiller, you name it. Our TT special hasn't had an issue. There is a little forward pressure required to cam over on close but seems to be nothing that my brother minds and something i'm very accustomed to on my tempest. I'm going to load up some 165gr Gamechangers this weekend and will report back. Absolutely love his build though. For the money Bighorn outdid themselves with the Origin.
Some kind of standard for actions/triggers would be cool but seems unlikely this late in the 700 compatible game.
@BigHorn / ZAI Team Any chance you guys would consider selling different sized cocking pieces? My idea being instead of a trigger hanger etc one could use a cocking piece with different dimensions to time the trigger. Even increments of .010" or so. Could run a survey of what triggers people are using and how much cock on close they're getting to get an idea of what approximate sizes people may want. Not looking to get it custom fit perfect, just closer.
It seems like it is pretty easy to measure how much cock on close someone is getting. Measure the protrusion of the cocking indicator with the bolt open and then again with it closed with the sear holding the cocking piece. I'm getting 0.052" with my Super 700 on either of my Origins. Otherwise, I'll probably end up timing it myself or having someone do it.
Just a thought.
@BigHorn / ZAI Team Any chance you guys would consider selling different sized cocking pieces? My idea being instead of a trigger hanger etc one could use a cocking piece with different dimensions to time the trigger. Even increments of .010" or so. Could run a survey of what triggers people are using and how much cock on close they're getting to get an idea of what approximate sizes people may want. Not looking to get it custom fit perfect, just closer.
It seems like it is pretty easy to measure how much cock on close someone is getting. Measure the protrusion of the cocking indicator with the bolt open and then again with it closed with the sear holding the cocking piece. I'm getting 0.052" with my Super 700 on either of my Origins. Otherwise, I'll probably end up timing it myself or having someone do it.
Just a thought.
How much did you have to remove to get everything dialed in? I know it'll be different for every trigger manufacturer, but just want a rough idea
BigHorn / ZAI Team
I just measured the bolt protrusion on my bolt and sitting at .1240 when it lock into battery , .09 when it's just cocked from the bolt lift and. 069 as the bolt shuts but don't begin to cock on close
I just measured the bolt protrusion on my bolt and sitting at .1240 when it lock into battery , .09 when it's just cocked from the bolt lift and. 069 as the bolt shuts but don't begin to cock on close
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Honestly just take it to a reputable smith who has the right tools and knowledge to perform the job.
That's kind of the problem not a lot of smith's around here, oh the joys of living in lower new york
Are you removeing material from the cocking peice where it contacts the cocking ramp? Looking at my action trying to figure out what you are doing
More times than not, that’s how it is performed. But, there is a significant difference between a finely tuned surface grinder versus a Dremel tool in your garage.
New York, guessing you have considered sending it out? Turnaround time is probably less than two weeks.
Edit; I just re-read your post, it is the cocking piece it’s self, usually the bolt body is not touched.
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No i figured the cocking peice itself.
I am not from new york either. Dont swear at me like that... lol
I am not from new york either. Dont swear at me like that... lol
Sorry I was referring to Mr. King.
I’m in California, so it’s almost as bad as New York. ?
Maybe I'll call big horn tomorrow and see if I can get them to send me over a cocking piece and I'll modify it
Rookie question I have two of these actions and the bolt lift with no trigger or anything seems super heavy compared to my tikka it’s like lifting a brick. Does it just need grease and time to work the action or is that the way they are. I have one on a 6br barrel and it’s a hammer and seems to me loosening up but even going to my Remington it seems heavy.
Reubenski has it right, it ain’t gonna change much other than feel... but damn is one finger open and close such a f’n pleasure to run.
BTW: looks like a sexy lil rifle u got there partner.
Here’s mine.
BTW: looks like a sexy lil rifle u got there partner.
Here’s mine.
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