Proper Barrell Maintenance & Cleaning

[KM1]

Wondering about my barrel cleaning procedure...thought I'd ask some experts!!!

Procedure:

1. Using a rod guide, coated rod, and patch....I soak the patch then push it through the barrel from chamber side....I remove the dirty patch once it exits the muzzle....put another patch on....soak that....pull it through....and remove the rod guide & rod. Let it soak a minute or two.

Purpose....to wet the barrel with cleaner (using Winchester Gun Cleaner...less thick than others) to loosen/dissolve carbon.

2. I then use a Sage & Braker bore snake with the front area (about an inch) soaked in the same gun cleaner. The bore snake contains the brass wire brush appropriate for the barrel size. I run it through 3 to 4 times.

3. I then use a separate Sage & Baker bore snake, with NO WIRE BRUSH, soaked in proper oil/lubricant in two spots, in the front, on the bore snake (about an inch each). I run that through the barrel 2 to 3 times.

4. Check the barrel with light at one end and see a mirror finish throughout.

Concern: Cleaners, CLP's, lubricants, what have you, CAN "walk" in areas and openings if one uses too much. At least on handguns....thus, why I use a soaked pathc vs spraying it directly on the handgun.

Thus, my question is regards to the opening in the barrel to the gas block....which operates the bolt. Has anyone experienced their cleaner while using patches (or if you spray into your barrel with cleaner...I use patches), or lubricant, eventually helping to cause a carbon buildup in that space/opening from the barrel to the gas tube (due to the CLP)? Is this ever an issue? Should I change any of my cleaning procedures to limit this?

Excuse my ignorance in this....I am newer to rifles than I am to handguns and have little experience with the way they cycle. Do know that opening is pretty small and cleaning it would not be something I would want to undertake as you would have to dissemble the gas block to do so.

Thanks any thoughts on this!!!

 

[TonyTheTiger]

The key is to not clean AR barrels. Ever.

 

[BravoFoxtrot]

The key is to not clean AR barrels. Ever.

This. Unless it gets obstructed with mud, etc.

 

[KM1]

i clean all my guns the same way....

• 2 wet patches with solvent/ cleaner of choice...give that a few mins to work.
• run a wet bore brush a dozen times or so.
• run another wet patch.
• dry patch out.

for ARs, ill usually clean every thousand rounds or so...

ive never run into an issue with carbon or oil blocking the gas tube....that area is under pretty high pressure, itll blow out any shit that gets in there.

Thanks!!! I've been told, by gunsmiths, to always clean ones firearms right after any range work. Wondering why some are suggesting to never clean an AR barrels???? I've never heard that before.....even PWS (my AR manufacturer) discusses, and demonstrates procedures, on the importance of maintaining their AR's

Hmmmm.....

 

[TonyTheTiger]

Buy two of the same barrel. Shoot them both out, cleaning one and neglecting the other and report back. I bet your opinion of cleaning will have changed significantly by the end of the test.
And I didn't say never clean your AR. Wipe the BCG/upper out every 1k or so if you like and re oil, but don't worry about the barrel.

 

[KM1]

Buy two of the same barrel. Shoot them both out, cleaning one and neglecting the other and report back. I bet your opinion of cleaning will have changed significantly by the end of the test.
And I didn't say never clean your AR. Wipe the BCG/upper out every 1k or so if you like and re oil, but don't worry about the barrel.

 

[KM1]

Do you follow the same procedure with your semi auto handgun barrels?

Rather than buying two different barrels and run that experiment....could you explain the difference and why?

I meant barrels....corrected that error.

 

[TonyTheTiger]

Do you follow the same procedure with your semi auto handgun barrels?

Yes. Almost all of my shooting is for competition, pre 2020 it was tens of thousands of rounds a year with nearly daily practice in my backyard range. I started out cleaning regularly, and in the five AR barrels I've burnt out (10k+ rounds per barrel) there has been no accuracy, longevity, or reliability difference between a religiously cleaned barrel and one that gets shot to death without ever seeing a patch.

 

[slambeach]

I clean anything I've shot the same day, probably from when everything had a Blued finish ?? I agree most AR style rifles could forgo cleaning most times, I just do it out of habit.

 

[KM1]

After doing some more reading on a couple other boards...I didn't realize what I was asking was kind of a controversial topic these days in the firearm arena. Who'd a thought!!!

 

[TonyTheTiger]

After doing some more reading on a couple other boards...I didn't realize what I was asking was kind of a controversial topic these days in the firearm arena. Who'd a thought!!!

Yeah you could definitely start a war with this thread. Keep in mind that unlike the blued steel guns of the past (of which I have many and DO clean and oil after shooting) AR's are made entirely of corrosion resistant materials. Barrels are stainless or chromed or nitrided, receivers are aluminum, BCG's, gas blocks and gas tubes are made to not only be corrosion resistant but by their very nature are self cleaning on the important surfaces. If you live in Florida and store your guns on the beach you could definitely have issues though.

Sure they get dirty, but an unsuppressed AR that is kept well lubed can run for a long time filthy. Also remember barrels are throwaway consumables that can be changed easily. There's just no reason to worry about them much.

 

[KM1]

Just to add to the discussion, and there are MANY pieces from experienced shooters and gunsmiths similar. For someone like me...new to rifles...

The Dirty Barrel Trend or: How I Learned To Stop Worrying and Love the Cleaning Rod - Criterion Barrels

Is barrel cleaning good or bad for accuracy? This question is becoming more and more prevalent in the precision rifle community.

criterionbarrels.com

 

[r.tenorio671]

Just to add to the discussion, and there are MANY pieces from experienced shooters and gunsmiths similar. For someone like me...new to rifles...

The Dirty Barrel Trend or: How I Learned To Stop Worrying and Love the Cleaning Rod - Criterion Barrels

Is barrel cleaning good or bad for accuracy? This question is becoming more and more prevalent in the precision rifle community.

criterionbarrels.com

....your procedure is fine, especially as a "new" shooter. You sound like the average consumer that is looking to preserve the life of their rifle, not a competitor that plans to shoot large quantities of rounds with a corresponding replacement of multiple barrels. There are those that advocate not cleaning the carbon out of the barrel in the belief that it harms accuracy, the carbon buildup (and copper) "filling in" the irregularities of the bore and providing smoother & more efficient bullet passage until the buildup exceeds a point and begins affecting accuracy. Their intervals between shooting sessions can be very short, unlike Joe Average.

..Storage and duration of storage is a factor. Carbon deposits left in a barrel can attract ambient air moisture which can harm a bore over time. Some chemical reactions between the carbon deposits and incompatible lubricants can also harm a bore over time stored. Running a bore snake with interwoven brush, nylon brushes, etc. thru a bore with a CLP, followed by dry patches to remove the loosened fouling until patches are "clean" and followed by an oiled patch to coat the bore is really all you need to do before storing away.

...Copper fouling removal is similar, but uses a medium specific to removing copper, each brand has its own methods and instructions to follow. Copper cleaning will typically be required later in the rifles usage, typically more than 100 rounds down it after initial 1st time use. Frequency is barrel dependent, no real answer can be given as each barrels accumulation rate differs and also is not "static" within an individual barrel. A "deep copper cleaning" also differs greatly from a "maintenance use" cleaning. If you run a patch(s) with copper cleaner on it down your bore after firing and the carbon removal brushes/patches, it basically is just removing the copper vaporizing residue from the bore, not necessarily the copper that has been shaved off and embedded into the surface irregularities of the bore to "fill in and smooth out the bore". Following up that patching with a couple of bore lubricant soaked patches typically will neutralize the copper removing agent and coat the bore with protectant.

be careful of your storage period lengths, doesn't hurt to run a clean dry patch followed by a lubed patch every so often. The dry patch removes any dust accumulation, dried lube, etc. and the wet patch redistributes new protectant to cover cleaned areas or areas where the original lube ran and dry spot occurred.

....long winded, apologies..

 

[KM1]

WOW....great explanation... thanks!!!

I have my PWS M K 116 Mod2 mainly for self defense/protection and consider my handguns mainly for that purpose.

I shoot between 60 and 80 rounds through the rifle every 3 months or so. The cleaning procedure in the original post is what I use. The second snake contains the oil and buffer part behind the oil....leaving, I hope, a small amount of oil on the barrel for storage. I have run that buffer through again, with oil, if it goes beyond 3 months in storage.

I store it in a safe type cabinet that I have a humidity meter in...along with a dehumidifying pellets in the summer stored in the safe. Winter humidity is around 30+%, summer it stays around 50% give or take.

When checking the barrel after cleaning it shows a mirror finish when shining a light down the barrel.

Current round count is about 200 rounds. Cleaned 3 times so far...3 sessions.

Again, most of my knowledge and training is focused on handguns and self defense. I am new to rifles...but plan on taking rifle courses, precision and self defense, once I master better my handgun skill set.

 

[AngryKoala]

Wondering about my barrel cleaning procedure...thought I'd ask some experts!!!

Procedure:

1. Using a rod guide, coated rod, and patch....I soak the patch then push it through the barrel from chamber side....I remove the dirty patch once it exits the muzzle....put another patch on....soak that....pull it through....and remove the rod guide & rod. Let it soak a minute or two.

Purpose....to wet the barrel with cleaner (using Winchester Gun Cleaner...less thick than others) to loosen/dissolve carbon.

2. I then use a Sage & Braker bore snake with the front area (about an inch) soaked in the same gun cleaner. The bore snake contains the brass wire brush appropriate for the barrel size. I run it through 3 to 4 times.

3. I then use a separate Sage & Baker bore snake, with NO WIRE BRUSH, soaked in proper oil/lubricant in two spots, in the front, on the bore snake (about an inch each). I run that through the barrel 2 to 3 times.

4. Check the barrel with light at one end and see a mirror finish throughout.

Concern: Cleaners, CLP's, lubricants, what have you, CAN "walk" in areas and openings if one uses too much. At least on handguns....thus, why I use a soaked pathc vs spraying it directly on the handgun.

Thus, my question is regards to the opening in the barrel to the gas block....which operates the bolt. Has anyone experienced their cleaner while using patches (or if you spray into your barrel with cleaner...I use patches), or lubricant, eventually helping to cause a carbon buildup in that space/opening from the barrel to the gas tube (due to the CLP)? Is this ever an issue? Should I change any of my cleaning procedures to limit this?

Excuse my ignorance in this....I am newer to rifles than I am to handguns and have little experience with the way they cycle. Do know that opening is pretty small and cleaning it would not be something I would want to undertake as you would have to dissemble the gas block to do so.

Thanks any thoughts on this!!!

You are not dissolving carbon.

 

[whatsupdoc]

The highest level of accuracy is what benchrest shooters strive for and they constantly clean their rifle bores.
While that level of accuracy may not be required for PRS type shooting facts are facts and benchrest shooters
keep their barrels clean because clean barrels shoot better than dirty ones PERIOD.

Carbon builds up in the bore and is VERY difficult to remove despite what all the internet experts
claim works to remove it. The more rounds down the barrel the more carbon buildup the harder it is to get clean.

The only things that I have found that actually remove carbon is a bronze brush and Free all penetrating oil or CLP.
I have also used abrasives like JB bore paste and it works but I try to avoid abrasive cleaners.

Bronze brushes wear fast, very fast and you need to measure the OD to confirm that the brush is actually large enough
to reach the grooves in the barrel.

I used to only clean after 150 rounds but now I clean the bores on my bolt rifles after every 50 rounds if
possible.

 

[Stoogey]

i always clean my rifles when i shoot them' useing rem oil, and i always wipe down the gun because finger prints (oil from your hands) causes rust seen it with my dads old 22 and on some of my knifes so becarful when you store your guns (and knifes) and wipe them down when you put them away.

 

[DeathBeforeDismount]

Step 1 - Buy Boretech Product
Step 2 - Follow Instructions on Bottle
Step 3 - See Step 1.

 

[KM1]

The highest level of accuracy is what benchrest shooters strive for and they constantly clean their rifle bores.
While that level of accuracy may not be required for PRS type shooting facts are facts and benchrest shooters
keep their barrels clean because clean barrels shoot better than dirty ones PERIOD.

Carbon builds up in the bore and is VERY difficult to remove despite what all the internet experts
claim works to remove it. The more rounds down the barrel the more carbon buildup the harder it is to get clean.

The only things that I have found that actually remove carbon is a bronze brush and Free all penetrating oil or CLP.
I have also used abrasives like JB bore paste and it works but I try to avoid abrasive cleaners.

Bronze brushes wear fast, very fast and you need to measure the OD to confirm that the brush is actually large enough
to reach the grooves in the barrel.

I used to only clean after 150 rounds but now I clean the bores on my bolt rifles after every 50 rounds if
possible.

I use Winchester gun cleaner and Spec 1 oil from sig. The Winchester CLP works well for carbon on my hanguns....better than anything else I've used. Get those patches too, eventually, come out as white as they are going in.

Thus, use the same on my rifle

 

[slambeach]

Have any of you tried "Wipe-out foaming bore cleaner"??? I was trying to get copper residue out of my 6.5 barrel, someone on here mentioned Wipe-out. It worked very well, foam turns blue an presence of copper, fill bore with foam, let sit an hr., dry patch till no blue. It even cleaned out all the ports in my muzzle brake.

 

[whatsupdoc]

Step 1 - Buy Boretech Product
Step 2 - Follow Instructions on Bottle
Step 3 - See Step 1.

Does not remove carbon.

 

[DeathBeforeDismount]

Does not remove carbon.

ROFL the fuck it doesn't.

BoreTech Case cleaner will melt all the carbon off during the cleaning cycle of brass. 30-40 minutes cases will come out looking new.

Boretech Eliminator will strip all carbon out of the barrel. It will also dissolve copper.

Their rimfire blend is the best out there for its purpose as well. Will dissolve lead and carbon.

Its the only thing you need from a solvent perspective.

 

[DeathBeforeDismount]

Have any of you tried "Wipe-out foaming bore cleaner"??? I was trying to get copper residue out of my 6.5 barrel, someone on here mentioned Wipe-out. It worked very well, foam turns blue an presence of copper, fill bore with foam, let sit an hr., dry patch till no blue. It even cleaned out all the ports in my muzzle brake.

They don't work and make a huge mess. I have tried just about everything over the last 20 years. Just use boretech. If they make it, use it.

Bore Tech Eliminator Bore Cleaner | Buy the Best Gun Bore Cleaner & Bore Solvent Online - Bore Tech

Shop for Bore Tech Eliminator bore cleaner online. Our cleaner is the best bore cleaner on the market. We offer our gun bore cleaner in two different sizes to meet your specific needs. Order your Eliminator bore cleaner from Bore Tech today!

www.boretech.com

For brakes. Take brake off, put in zip lock baggy with Eliminator & water, squeeze to get all air out, Then drop in an ultrasonic cleaner for an hour. Brake will come out looking brand new and you will use minimal solvent.

 

[impactaddict]

Have any of you tried "Wipe-out foaming bore cleaner"??? I was trying to get copper residue out of my 6.5 barrel, someone on here mentioned Wipe-out. It worked very well, foam turns blue an presence of copper, fill bore with foam, let sit an hr., dry patch till no blue. It even cleaned out all the ports in my muzzle brake.

I've been using wipe-out for several years. I have the foam, accelerator, and tactical cleaner. it all works very well for all my barrel cleaning applications. They do recommend to leave wipe-out in for 24-36 hours specifically to dissolve the alloy metals that make lead. Lead will come out as small black flakes. The make a lead specific product if that's what you're after. They also make some of the best case lube I have ever used.

 

[r.tenorio671]

....give me a sec to put my flame-resistant suit on....

....recently tested something new and it worked on my SS barrel, common household cleaner CLR. Pressure & chrony tested my 6ARC loads of W748, 8208XBR and LVR. That LVR is one "dirty" powder. The barrel sat untouched for 3 days or so after that session of about 113 rounds. Ran a couple of patches soaked w/CLR down it, let it sit for about 5-10 minutes then a few dry patches to remove most of the now emulsified carbon, followed up with a few patches soaked with 70% rubbing alcohol to neutralize the CLR until the patch came out "clean". Finished it off with some CLP soaked patches to lube the bore & chamber.

...I teslong'ed the bore before (very dirty) and after (no carbon, period). I had also cleaned the SS brake in the same manner and it's not showing any detrimental effects. Upper has been sitting for about 2 weeks or so, I'll be scoping it again soon to see what, if any, effects CLR imparted over this short period, but based on the brakes appearance, it seems unlikely.

YMMV

 

[whatsupdoc]

ROFL the fuck it doesn't.

BoreTech Case cleaner will melt all the carbon off during the cleaning cycle of brass. 30-40 minutes cases will come out looking new.

Boretech Eliminator will strip all carbon out of the barrel. It will also dissolve copper.

Their rimfire blend is the best out there for its purpose as well. Will dissolve lead and carbon.

Its the only thing you need from a solvent perspective.

You can shill all you want but none of them remove hard carbon from the barrel.

 

[Mk16.5]

I second the boretech stuff. Very effective, no damage.

 

[DeathBeforeDismount]

You can shill all you want but none of them remove hard carbon from the barrel.

LOL again you have no idea what you are talking about. I have bolt guns that have gone 1200+ rounds before cleaning the barrel and some wet patches soaked in there, followed by nylon brush soaked in the shit brings it back to new.

Over the last 20 years I have used everyething from Hopes to Rem oil to Butches to Boretech and everything in between. Guess which one lives on the bench and which ones were thrown in trash. Only thing I haven't used is CLR, never had a need to since Boretech does what it needs to.

Maybe you aren't smart enough to read the instructions and follow them?

 

[whatsupdoc]

LOL again you have no idea what you are talking about. I have bolt guns that have gone 1200+ rounds before cleaning the barrel and some wet patches soaked in there, followed by nylon brush soaked in the shit brings it back to new.

Over the last 20 years I have used everyething from Hopes to Rem oil to Butches to Boretech and everything in between. Guess which one lives on the bench and which ones were thrown in trash. Only thing I haven't used is CLR, never had a need to since Boretech does what it needs to.

Maybe you aren't smart enough to read the instructions and follow them?

Still does not remove hard carbon.

 

[TurboTrout]

Yeah, get the VERY fun cmmg 22lr conversion, let your girl shoot it, get distracted and notice she ran a few hundred rounds with no 223 rounds and no cleaning, and your JP brake is caked lol