Re: Reloading 101: Reloading basics for the new re
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Black-X</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: doc76251</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: johngfoster</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: doc76251</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Setting up the dies:
In the absence of a headspace gauge (which actually pretty worthless if you think about it, since they are made to a standard that may or may not match your chamber) or another device that allows you to measure the shoulder of the case, you will need the rifle that the ammo is intended for. For this text the brass we are resizing will not fit into your chamber. That gives you a starting point: The bolt won’t close.
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Sorry if this is a noob question, but I tried this and am confused. When I back off 1 full turn, I find I'm not sizing the whole neck. I can see a line halfway down on my neck where it transitions from being sized down to the unsized size. Also, it seems no matter how far out I back my die, the newly sized case chambers easily without resistance. What am I doing wrong?
BTW, I'm using Redding type S FL sizing die with bushing of 0.336", Lapua brass, RCBS Rockchucker press. </div></div>
John,
The key point in writing my article was to start with brass that WOULD NOT chamber in the desired rifle. For new brass you may find that you can load the brass with out resizing it at all. It all depends on your chamber and the ability of the brass to spring back.
As to sizing the neck with a bushing you need to screw either the die or the neck bushing adjustment (depends on your dies) IN to the press to get the sizing part lower. When you get to the junction of the neck and the shoulder is where you need to be careful because this is where you begin to push the shoulder back. Minimal movement at all points is the desired effect.
Hope that cleared the waters some. Again, I do not subscribe to bushing dies and the article is not written for them.
Cheers,
Doc</div></div>
So how do you setup the FL dies if the brass WILL fit?
-X </div></div>
Well, I got a Hornady L&L headspace gauge--attaches to my dial caliper. I measure the length from the datum on the shoulder to the case head of a fired case. At first I had trouble doing this because the primer has this little dimple/crater thingy in it once it is fired.
Then I got the bright idea of putting it in the hand priming tool and crunching the spent primer in just a bit more so none of it protrudes beyond the case head. Problem solved. Now I can get an accurate measure of the dimensions of a fired case. Anyway, I then set the die up so that when the shell is in the shell-holder at the top of the stroke, I screw the die in until it touches. Then I screw it in a fraction of a turn more, size the shell and measure again, until it is 0.002" shorter at the shoulder. Then I size another fired case after pushing the primer in again, and measure the bump again just to confirm. If it is still 0.002", then I'm GTG. Pretty simple really. With bushing dies I find that they don't seem to size the whole neck even when bumping the shoulder a fraction. There is still about 0.020 or so left of the neck that hasn't been sized right before the junction with the shoulder. I guess this is OK. I'm open to hearing differing opinions on this though.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Black-X</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: doc76251</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: johngfoster</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: doc76251</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Setting up the dies:
In the absence of a headspace gauge (which actually pretty worthless if you think about it, since they are made to a standard that may or may not match your chamber) or another device that allows you to measure the shoulder of the case, you will need the rifle that the ammo is intended for. For this text the brass we are resizing will not fit into your chamber. That gives you a starting point: The bolt won’t close.
</div></div>
Sorry if this is a noob question, but I tried this and am confused. When I back off 1 full turn, I find I'm not sizing the whole neck. I can see a line halfway down on my neck where it transitions from being sized down to the unsized size. Also, it seems no matter how far out I back my die, the newly sized case chambers easily without resistance. What am I doing wrong?
BTW, I'm using Redding type S FL sizing die with bushing of 0.336", Lapua brass, RCBS Rockchucker press. </div></div>
John,
The key point in writing my article was to start with brass that WOULD NOT chamber in the desired rifle. For new brass you may find that you can load the brass with out resizing it at all. It all depends on your chamber and the ability of the brass to spring back.
As to sizing the neck with a bushing you need to screw either the die or the neck bushing adjustment (depends on your dies) IN to the press to get the sizing part lower. When you get to the junction of the neck and the shoulder is where you need to be careful because this is where you begin to push the shoulder back. Minimal movement at all points is the desired effect.
Hope that cleared the waters some. Again, I do not subscribe to bushing dies and the article is not written for them.
Cheers,
Doc</div></div>
So how do you setup the FL dies if the brass WILL fit?
-X </div></div>
Well, I got a Hornady L&L headspace gauge--attaches to my dial caliper. I measure the length from the datum on the shoulder to the case head of a fired case. At first I had trouble doing this because the primer has this little dimple/crater thingy in it once it is fired.
