Reloading 101: Reloading basics for the new reload

Re: Reloading 101: Reloading basics for the new reload

Sir,
Thanks for taking the time to put this on paper. I am getting ready to reload and am first reading some books before I buy any equipment. You have given a me a lot of insight.
 
Re: Reloading 101: Reloading basics for the new reload

Wow, thanks for the kind words guys.
blush.gif


I haven't thought about this thread in quite some time. One of these days I will have to add in the two new bits of equipment I have found since writing it. The Redding Comp. Shell holders and the Hornady Head and Shoulders Headspace gauges. Nice bits of kit.

Cheers,

Doc
 
Re: Reloading 101: Reloading basics for the new reload

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: doc76251</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Wow, thanks for the kind words guys.
blush.gif


I haven't thought about this thread in quite some time. One of these days I will have to add in the two new bits of equipment I have found since writing it. The Redding Comp. Shell holders and the Hornady Head and Shoulders Headspace gauges. Nice bits of kit.

Cheers,

Doc </div></div>

Hey thanks alot for taking the time to post all this especially the equipment layouts with pictures.

I've only ever worked on a Dillon progressive and honestly I learned a ton by reading this.

 
Re: Reloading 101: Reloading basics for the new reload

After reading this, I have a question about shoulder set back as far when dealing with a gas gun(AR) or (M1A) do you just let the bolt fly and if it goes into full battery its good to go???

Also, it doesnt look like possum hollow has the case trimmer on the website, where else is it available.
 
Re: Reloading 101: Reloading basics for the new reload

Quick question.


Im in the process of piecing together all of my reloading gear mostly due to this great great up in this thread lol. But when using the Hornady lock and load bullet comparator set to measure length based off the ogive do I have to use it with the OAL gauge like its recommended or is that not needed?
 
Re: Reloading 101: Reloading basics for the new reload

As I understand the question, NO.

IF the OAL gauge is the one that looks like the cartridge with a rod hanging out the back. You can use that gizmo but I have found them problematic to find the lands with any consistency. I like the sharpie and light neck tension myself. Then again I'm old and stubborn
laugh.gif


Cheers,

Doc

 
Re: Reloading 101: Reloading basics for the new reload

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: doc76251</div><div class="ubbcode-body">As I understand the question, NO.

IF the OAL gauge is the one that looks like the cartridge with a rod hanging out the back. You can use that gizmo but I have found them problematic to find the lands with any consistency. I like the sharpie and light neck tension myself. Then again I'm old and stubborn
laugh.gif


Cheers,

Doc

</div></div>

Doc, so your saying take a bullet, load it into a processed case(minus primer and powder) with minimal neck tension as to let the bullet slide back when chambered, mark buller with sharpie, load the round into the rifle, then extract the round, and measure from the base to where the "marker" touches the lands? Do I have this correct? Will this give me OAL of chamber or just what my seating depth baseline should be?
 
Re: Reloading 101: Reloading basics for the new reload

You got it Rob. This will give you the ogive length of your loaded round (more specificly: the length of the loaded round that will just touch the lands). Determining the chamber length is done earlier on in the article when you were playing with the seating die to get the snug chambering.

Cheers,

Doc
 
Re: Reloading 101: Reloading basics for the new reload

Doc, a very informative post... As a new reloader this was a great suummary to all I'm trying to keep straight in my head. I understood everything much better on this go around than when I first read the post several months ago.

Thanks again for your insights... It's obvious that I'm not alone in extending my appreciation for taking the time and effort to detail your reloading methods and work flow.
 
Re: Reloading 101: Reloading basics for the new reload

Doc:
you might think about changing your name or tag line to "Professor" lol.
On a serious note good stuff thanks for sharing.
 
Re: Reloading 101: Reloading basics for the new reload

Excellent post. That was well written and very informative. I have been reloading for quite a while and got some good reminders. Thanks
 
Re: Reloading 101: Reloading basics for the new reload

I am buying a Remington 700p .300 win mag when i get home from Iraq in 2 or 3 weeks. I also was wanting to start reloading. How much does it cost a beginner to start reloading? Thanks
 
Re: Reloading 101: Reloading basics for the new reload

It's threads like this that keep guys like me that have never reloaded from asking rediculous questions. Thanks!

Santa is supposed to be bringing me reloading gear this year.
grin.gif
 
Re: Reloading 101: Reloading basics for the new reload

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: doc76251</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Wow, thanks for the kind words guys.
blush.gif


I haven't thought about this thread in quite some time. One of these days I will have to add in the two new bits of equipment I have found since writing it. The Redding Comp. Shell holders and the Hornady Head and Shoulders Headspace gauges. Nice bits of kit.

Cheers,



Doc </div></div>

Doc, what do you like about the Redding Comp shellholders? Easier to set shoulder bump that way?

 
Re: Reloading 101: Reloading basics for the new reload

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Rafael</div><div class="ubbcode-body">That's what I like about them....and it makes it real easy to change.....just swap holders, no need to adjust anything. </div></div>

Raf, thanks! Do you still measure with something to see how much bump you are getting or do you just follow Reddings instructions to stop at the holder that lets you close the bolt easily?

 
Re: Reloading 101: Reloading basics for the new reload

Both.
While I like prefer feedback on bolt effort, it's also really nice to see how far you are bumping it.....just in case you screw up. Sizing 500 Lapua cases too far really sucks.
laugh.gif
 
Re: Reloading 101: Reloading basics for the new reload

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Rafael</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Both.
While I like prefer feedback on bolt effort, it's also really nice to see how far you are bumping it.....just in case you screw up. Sizing 500 Lapua cases too far really sucks.
laugh.gif
</div></div>

Cool. So, what do you use to measure? There is the Hornady tool, the Wilson gauges, or the RCBS Mic gauge. Trying to make a decision on one or another.

Thanks again!

 
Re: Reloading 101: Reloading basics for the new reload

My favorite is the Redding Instant Indicator. I have only one, for my 308 cases. It resides in a station on my Redding T-7 turret press. Size, then rotate the head and check headspace. Neat tool, but a little expensive. It's the perfect tool if you have a turret press.

For my other cartridges, the Hornady too is real nice.

The only other HS tool I ever used was the RCBS case-mic.....
Worst of the bunch. I don't recommend that one at all. Gave it away.
 
Re: Reloading 101: Reloading basics for the new reload

Great article Doc! I have been handloading for years and you have some great info on tools and process. I learned a lot from your post. Which one is better; the Forster Original Case Trimmer, or the Possum Hollow Kwick Case Trimmer?


 
Re: Reloading 101: Reloading basics for the new reload

How loose should a primer pocket be before tossing the case?? specially when its more expensive case...if i can push the magnum primer into the case by my finger nail is that bad? LOL
 
Re: Reloading 101: Reloading basics for the new re

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 1911.it</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Great article Doc! I have been handloading for years and you have some great info on tools and process. I learned a lot from your post. Which one is better; the Forster Original Case Trimmer, or the Possum Hollow Kwick Case Trimmer? </div></div>

I have both, and the Forster has been collecting dust for about 5 years. I wish I had never purchased it.
I found it to be inconsistent in that the collet shellholder didn't give repeatable results.
I didn't find it any more accurate than the Possum Hollow and the PH is cheaper/easier/much faster to use.

Of course, I now own a Giraud. It gathers no dust.
laugh.gif
 
Re: Reloading 101: Reloading basics for the new re

Just my 2 cents -

Recommended reloading equipment - my opinion on buying the right stuff the first time around.


reloading dies For the .308 Winchester -
Redding Competition Bushing Neck Sizer Die 308 Winchester
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=160954&t=11082005


Forster Ultra Full Length 2-Die Set 308 Winchester (National Match)
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=889455&t=11082005


for depriming all spent brass -
Redding Universal Depriming and Decapping Die Kit
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=597441&t=11082005


Redding Neck Sizer Die Bushing 335 Diameter Titanium Nitride
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=888335&t=11082005


An excellent reloading press that I have found for 99.9% of all the precision rifle reloading operations you'll do.
Forster Co-Ax Single Stage Press
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=265719&t=11082005


a good scale -
Redding #2 Master Magnetic Powder Scale 505 Grain Capacity
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=658771&t=11082005


A VERY good powder measure -
Redding Match Grade 3BR Powder Measure with Universal and Handgun Metering Chamber
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=246394&t=11082005


Lube for case resizing -
Forster High Pressure Lubricant 2 oz
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=300002&t=11082005


various case prep tools -
Forster Chamfer and Deburring Tool
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=364181&t=11082005


Redding Primer Pocket Uniformer Tool Large
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=664266&t=11082005


RCBS Hand Priming Tool
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=329291&t=11082005


RCBS Shellholder #3
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=326468&t=11082005


Redding Case Trimmer w/ Micormeter
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=635693


Redding #5 Powder Trickler
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=487186&t=11082005


RCBS Powder Funnel 22 to 45 Caliber
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=328093&t=11082005


RCBS Pow'r Pull Impact Bullet Puller
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=630146&t=11082005


RCBS Pow'r Pull Impact Bullet Puller Magnum Rifle Chuck Assembly
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=116534&t=11082005


Frankford Arsenal Quick-N-EZ Case Tumbler Master Kit with Quick-N-EZ Rotary Media Separator 110 Volt
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=414369


Lyman Turbo Brass Cleaning Media Treated Corn Cob 6 lb "Easy Pour Container"
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=541305


Sierra "5th Edition Rifle and Pistol Manual of Reloading Data" Reloading Manual
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=946494


Sierra Infinity Suite "Infinity Exterior Ballistic Software Version 6 and 5th Edition Manual" CD-ROM
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=415729


Remember to follow the manual and reload carefully and safely.


Good luck and good shooting!
 
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Re: Reloading 101: Reloading basics for the new re

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: doc76251</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Setting up the dies:

In the absence of a headspace gauge (which actually pretty worthless if you think about it, since they are made to a standard that may or may not match your chamber) or another device that allows you to measure the shoulder of the case, you will need the rifle that the ammo is intended for. For this text the brass we are resizing will not fit into your chamber. That gives you a starting point: The bolt won’t close.
</div></div>

Sorry if this is a noob question, but I tried this and am confused. When I back off 1 full turn, I find I'm not sizing the whole neck. I can see a line halfway down on my neck where it transitions from being sized down to the unsized size. Also, it seems no matter how far out I back my die, the newly sized case chambers easily without resistance. What am I doing wrong?

BTW, I'm using Redding type S FL sizing die with bushing of 0.336", Lapua brass, RCBS Rockchucker press.
 
Re: Reloading 101: Reloading basics for the new re

Once-fired brass now.

Prior to loading new Lapua brass, ran it through same FL sizing die set to touch shell-holder at top of up-stroke. At that setting I could see the same ring on the neck, but it was lower down, just about 1/64th" above the shoulder. Brass still chambered easily. I tried moving the die in just a bit more to get the full neck sized, and had to cam over the handle a bit. Brass still chambered easily.
 
Re: Reloading 101: Reloading basics for the new reload

Using Hornady headspace gauge clamped onto my dial caliper, I get 3.703" for a piece of fired brass when gauging off the shoulder using the B 350 attachment. (I had to press the spent primer deeper into the pocket due to the minimal cratering from the firing pin) Factory FGGM loaded round measures 3.690" using the same setup. Do I need to set the die then to bump the shoulder to 3.701"? This should give me 0.002" bump.
 
Re: Reloading 101: Reloading basics for the new reload

Another thing: I noticed that with one resizing my case OAL went from 2.020" to 2.024". This is for twice fired brass. Unfired brass from the same batch is 2.009". How long do you let your brass grow before trimming?
 
Re: Reloading 101: Reloading basics for the new reload

Whoa! Is this a .308? Book maximum length to the neck of a case is 2.015. Now granted your chamber might be more generous but without a way to measure it, you should have trimmed once they got over 2.015, usually back .010 ie to 2.005.

Do you have a current Lyman book consult? Its a very handy reference for all sorts of things. Trim lengths, procedures, you name it.

 
Re: Reloading 101: Reloading basics for the new reload

It may be too long.
The specs are there to give us all something safe to work with when we lack more information.

I happen to know that my 308 chamber will allow for brass up to 2.035" in length. Sinclair sells a plug you can use to measure this.
http://www.sinclairintl.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=search&item=G-308&type=store

Most chambers are fairly long, but you should stick to a 2.010" trim length if you do not know for sure that you can go longer.

 
Re: Reloading 101: Reloading basics for the new re

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: doc76251</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Jon,

I didn't get that deep. I cut a chamfer that looked "right" and then set the stop. Not much science more of a feel. I just wanted to get the "mouth" opened up a bit to feed in more fire.</div></div>

How much "looks right"? Any way you could post a pic of the chamfer to the flash hole in the primer pocket?
 
Re: Reloading 101: Reloading basics for the new re

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: johngfoster</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: doc76251</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Setting up the dies:

In the absence of a headspace gauge (which actually pretty worthless if you think about it, since they are made to a standard that may or may not match your chamber) or another device that allows you to measure the shoulder of the case, you will need the rifle that the ammo is intended for. For this text the brass we are resizing will not fit into your chamber. That gives you a starting point: The bolt won’t close.
</div></div>

Sorry if this is a noob question, but I tried this and am confused. When I back off 1 full turn, I find I'm not sizing the whole neck. I can see a line halfway down on my neck where it transitions from being sized down to the unsized size. Also, it seems no matter how far out I back my die, the newly sized case chambers easily without resistance. What am I doing wrong?

BTW, I'm using Redding type S FL sizing die with bushing of 0.336", Lapua brass, RCBS Rockchucker press. </div></div>

John,

The key point in writing my article was to start with brass that WOULD NOT chamber in the desired rifle. For new brass you may find that you can load the brass with out resizing it at all. It all depends on your chamber and the ability of the brass to spring back.

As to sizing the neck with a bushing you need to screw either the die or the neck bushing adjustment (depends on your dies) IN to the press to get the sizing part lower. When you get to the junction of the neck and the shoulder is where you need to be careful because this is where you begin to push the shoulder back. Minimal movement at all points is the desired effect.

Hope that cleared the waters some. Again, I do not subscribe to bushing dies and the article is not written for them.

Cheers,

Doc
 
Re: Reloading 101: Reloading basics for the new re

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: johngfoster</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: doc76251</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Jon,

I didn't get that deep. I cut a chamfer that looked "right" and then set the stop. Not much science more of a feel. I just wanted to get the "mouth" opened up a bit to feed in more fire.</div></div>

How much "looks right"? Any way you could post a pic of the chamfer to the flash hole in the primer pocket?
</div></div>

I tried for pictures but my photography foo with all that shiny brass was just not working via the point and shoot. Essentialy I like to have 1/2 the diameter of the hole one either side as a chamfer. I guess "right" is a chamfer edge that is twice as big as the hole.

Cheers,

Doc
 
Re: Reloading 101: Reloading basics for the new re

Thanks Doc

I've subsequently measured my shoulder bump with a Hornady Loc-n-Load headspace gauge. I find that when my die is set to bump the shoulder back 0.002" it still leaves about 1/32" of the bottom of the neck unsized--I can see a line here. I have adjusted the die as I understand the instructions, backing off the top knob 1/16th of a turn to allow the bushing to center itself on the neck, per the instructions.

I'll have to give chamfering the flash hole on the outside a try.
 
Re: Reloading 101: Reloading basics for the new reload

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: doc76251</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: johngfoster</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: doc76251</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Setting up the dies:

In the absence of a headspace gauge (which actually pretty worthless if you think about it, since they are made to a standard that may or may not match your chamber) or another device that allows you to measure the shoulder of the case, you will need the rifle that the ammo is intended for. For this text the brass we are resizing will not fit into your chamber. That gives you a starting point: The bolt won&#146;t close.
</div></div>

Sorry if this is a noob question, but I tried this and am confused. When I back off 1 full turn, I find I'm not sizing the whole neck. I can see a line halfway down on my neck where it transitions from being sized down to the unsized size. Also, it seems no matter how far out I back my die, the newly sized case chambers easily without resistance. What am I doing wrong?

BTW, I'm using Redding type S FL sizing die with bushing of 0.336", Lapua brass, RCBS Rockchucker press. </div></div>

John,

The key point in writing my article was to start with brass that WOULD NOT chamber in the desired rifle. For new brass you may find that you can load the brass with out resizing it at all. It all depends on your chamber and the ability of the brass to spring back.

As to sizing the neck with a bushing you need to screw either the die or the neck bushing adjustment (depends on your dies) IN to the press to get the sizing part lower. When you get to the junction of the neck and the shoulder is where you need to be careful because this is where you begin to push the shoulder back. Minimal movement at all points is the desired effect.

Hope that cleared the waters some. Again, I do not subscribe to bushing dies and the article is not written for them.

Cheers,

Doc</div></div>

So how do you setup the FL dies if the brass WILL fit?

-X
 
Re: Reloading 101: Reloading basics for the new reload

Doc, I've just had my reloading equipment delivered to my house. After reading several books prior to, I still got a TON of value off this thread.

This is exactly why this site is addictive. Tons of great info and people willing to share.

Thanks again.
 
Re: Reloading 101: Reloading basics for the new reload

Doc, A friend of my son told him that he achieves accurate COAL by starting a bullet into a case and then chambers the cartridge and gently closes the bolt. Removes the cartridge, measures OAL and seats bullet .010 deeper. Would this be a desireable method?????????