Remington 700 SA .223 Wilde build

[spife7980]

You could have put the impact and rukus together at home just like the origin as they are both prefit available actions.

Since you aren’t adverse to the origin or budget then get it. I love my two origins.

Did he recommend the standard 223 over the wylde?!? Or the 223 match?
223 match, certainly, the .090 free bore is nice to have if you handload or use rounds beyond 2.260 factory ar mag length with the 7 twist for long range.
The standard 223s .025 freebore is a big step down for long range shooting with god bullets over the .069 freebore of the wylde in my -and likely most everyone else around here’s- opinion.

And 7 twist for the blackout if you want subsonics. I never use mine anymore though aside from the thermal with supers, the novelty wore off.

 

[Rob01]

You could have put the impact and rukus together at home just like the origin as they are both prefit available actions.

Since you aren’t adverse to the origin or budget then get it. I love my two origins.

Did he recommend the standard 223 over the wylde?!? Or the 223 match?
223 match, certainly, the .090 free bore is nice to have if you handload or use rounds beyond 2.260 factory ar mag length with the 7 twist for long range.
The standard 223s .025 freebore is a big step down for long range shooting with god bullets over the .069 freebore of the wylde in my -and likely most everyone else around here’s- opinion.

And 7 twist for the blackout if you want subsonics. I never use mine anymore though aside from the thermal with supers, the novelty wore off.

What he said.

I would definitely advise to go 223 Wylde if you plan to shoot the heavies out long. Same for the twist on the 300 BO. I wouldn't go slower than 9 and get a 7 if subsonics were going to be used.

 

[roostercogburn98]

I've got two that I thread locked and have a set screw drilled into and treat like a shouldered barrel. But I feel like that might be a bit intimidating to someone who has yet to build a gun yet.

I can understand that logic.

How do you like the thread locked and set screw? Do you feel like it is a reliable way to keep headspace set?

 

[redneckbmxer24]

With top quality aftermarket actions starting at $900 and quality prefits from proof as low as $400 there is zero reason to fuck around with factory actions and barrel nuts.

Invest in a decent action like an origin and go from there.

 

[NewsShooter]

Just threadlock or silver solder the barrel nut?

Never used either when swapping barrels on a savage.

 

[GunnyUSMC]

Did he recommend the standard 223 over the wylde?!? Or the 223 match?
223 match, certainly, the .090 free bore is nice to have if you handload or use rounds beyond 2.260 factory ar mag length with the 7 twist for long range.
The standard 223s .025 freebore is a big step down for long range shooting with god bullets over the .069 freebore of the wylde in my -and likely most everyone else around here’s- opinion.

His recommendation was to use the "correct chamber instead of the Wilde". I didnt realize the differences in free-bore length:

Free-bore length:
.223 Remington = .025
.223 Wilde = .0619 (vs.069)
.223 Match = .090

Does freebore diameter matter? I am assuming .2240 and that is not "configurable"

I do handload and have an AR15 with a 20" barrel chambered in .223 Wilde. I hate shoving a 77gr bullet so far into the case due to the mag limits which is what led me to getting a bolt gun. Need longer mags as well as longer free-bore.

went back to his web site and the following options are available:

• 223 Rem
• 223 Rem Match
• 223 Wylde
• 223 A.I.

Now I understand better the differences except not sure what .223 A.I. is.

 

[Rob01]

Yea freebore matters. Go Wylde. You will not have to worry about short AR mags and the MDT mags can load to 2.550”.

 

[stevieb92]

Yes, for a bolt gun definitely go Wylde chamber. You can take advantage of the longer length using AICS pattern mags for .223. This is the way I went with my barrel from Southern Precision.

 

[spife7980]

His recommendation was to use the "correct chamber instead of the Wilde". I didnt realize the differences in free-bore length:

Free-bore length:
.223 Remington = .025
.223 Wilde = .0619 (vs.069)
.223 Match = .090

Does freebore diameter matter? I am assuming .2240 and that is not "configurable"

I do handload and have an AR15 with a 20" barrel chambered in .223 Wilde. I hate shoving a 77gr bullet so far into the case due to the mag limits which is what led me to getting a bolt gun. Need longer mags as well as longer free-bore.

went back to his web site and the following options are available:

• 223 Rem
• 223 Rem Match
• 223 Wylde
• 223 A.I.

Now I understand better the differences except not sure what .223 A.I. is.

Youre right, wylde is .0619, not .69, typo on my part but not all that egregious.

Freebore does matter. Get the wylde a least.

The standard 223 is really tailored around the lighter 55-69 grains tops, heavier really starts to really encroach on case volume as they get forced deeper in the case. Wylde gives the body an extra thou of clearance (so it is technically a looser chamber but its not tangible) and gives .0619/.062 freebore to allow the 77 grain bullets a bit more room in front to be seated longer for better case volume. The match .090 is great for the 75+ grain bullets.

For a bolt get the wylde at minimum or the match.

With my wylde and 75 elds in a rem700 I was touching at what equates to ~2.490" overall length, far longer than an ar mag but still well within the trimmed accurate mag constraints of ~2.55" max.

 

[Rob01]

My 75 ELDs also touch lands at 2.490” and I load them at 2.470” at .020” off. About a perfect place for them and the .223 case.

 

[flatland1]

I didn't specify the freebore on the 223AI reamer I bought from PTG, but coincidentally, it's perfect for loading JLK or Berger 90VLDs to max mag length in poly AI magazines. I've shot several 1000yd 5-shot groups with two different 223AI rifles that measured 5", and managed a hit on a steel humanoid target at 1400yds during a PRS-style match a few years ago. That hit might've illustrated the LR accuracy capability of a good 223AI w/90s, but it also showed the downside to shooting any 22 cal round in LR steel matches - neither I nor the other shooter on the line heard or saw the 1400yd hit, and I was wearing electronic muffs, plus the wind was from the south, the direction we were shooting.

 

[GunnyUSMC]

Awesome! Thanks for the feedback. I will definitely go with at least a .223 Wilde

Any thoughts on the barrel? I am thinking a 26" bull. Is that too long for a .223?

Also, I had thought about the MDT ACC but started looking at the KRG Bravo to save a few $$. I looked up the specs of the MDT ACC & XRS and the KRG Bravo & Whiskey 3. The Bravo is the lightest and least expensive.

I developed some build specs to include weight of all components. Assuming that the F-Class FTR is limited to 288oz, and after estimating the weight of the action, barrel, stock/chassis, scope, mount & Tripod, the shooting system based on a Bravo is coming in at 292oz while the MDT ACC is coming in at 318oz. Some of my estimates are a little high, especially in regards to the scope and mount, but it is still close which continues to push me towards the Bravo.

 

[spife7980]

Awesome! Thanks for the feedback. I will definitely go with at least a .223 Wilde

Any thoughts on the barrel? I am thinking a 26" bull. Is that too long for a .223?

Also, I had thought about the MDT ACC but started looking at the KRG Bravo to save a few $$. I looked up the specs of the MDT ACC & XRS and the KRG Bravo & Whiskey 3. The Bravo is the lightest and least expensive.

I developed some build specs to include weight of all components. Assuming that the F-Class FTR is limited to 288oz, and after estimating the weight of the action, barrel, stock/chassis, scope, mount & Tripod, the shooting system based on a Bravo is coming in at 292oz while the MDT ACC is coming in at 318oz. Some of my estimates are a little high, especially in regards to the scope and mount, but it is still close which continues to push me towards the Bravo.

If you are patient you could probably stew on it for two months and maybe get your hands on someone else’s to compare until Black Friday and you can maybe crash the sites for a chassis cheap.

I would probably go with the bull contour if you don’t mind a little fatty. I have my nice 223 with a fatty too. I run a 21” (gotta have it short to fit under a shelf on that half of the safe) but whenever I shoot a comp with it I wish I had a 26” just for a free 100 fps. The rest of the time I don’t.

 

[Rob01]

Awesome! Thanks for the feedback. I will definitely go with at least a .223 Wilde

Any thoughts on the barrel? I am thinking a 26" bull. Is that too long for a .223?

Also, I had thought about the MDT ACC but started looking at the KRG Bravo to save a few $$. I looked up the specs of the MDT ACC & XRS and the KRG Bravo & Whiskey 3. The Bravo is the lightest and least expensive.

I developed some build specs to include weight of all components. Assuming that the F-Class FTR is limited to 288oz, and after estimating the weight of the action, barrel, stock/chassis, scope, mount & Tripod, the shooting system based on a Bravo is coming in at 292oz while the MDT ACC is coming in at 318oz. Some of my estimates are a little high, especially in regards to the scope and mount, but it is still close which continues to push me towards the Bravo.

26” isn’t too long. Mine is 7 twist at 27”. I like it a lot. Easy to get speed but being a PRS rifle I am maxed at 3000fps anyways but the longer barrel sits nice on props. It’s a Comp Contour so pretty heavy.

 

[sparky702]

I have built 2 barrel nut rifles . One is a 458 socom I built off a savage action and the other is a 6.5 creedmoor built on a Remington 700 short action . It's not hard to do . With that being said My next rifle will be a big horn origin . It just makes more sense all the way around . plus setting at the work bench with a white 30 gallon trash bag over your head and shoulders so you don't lose the ejector when you go to set the headspace suck's .

 

[GunnyUSMC]

This has been a great exchange.... Thanks everyone!

After a lot of research, my build is shaping up as follows:

• Origin SA w/.223 bolt head
• Shouldered prefit 26" .223 Wilde Bull
• Trigger Tech Diamond
• KRG Bravo w/Arca Spigot Mount XL and flat bag rider

Appx $2,400 ready to go to the range, not bad! Very doable...

It appears that the MDT AICS Short Action mags for .223 have the longest supported COAL of 2.50".

Still gotta buy the action wrench, barrel clamp/vise, and go-no-go gauge

 

[Haney]

I went with this on my last barrel . No problem with the long heavy bullets . It's on a bolt gun .

 

[carbonbased]

I'm just going to say it. It's spelled Wylde. I didn't know I had that kind of OCD in me, lol. But I had to point it out. Carry on

Maybe the OP has watched too many episodes of Bullets Gone Wilde™ or something

 

[GunnyUSMC]

I'm just going to say it. It's spelled Wylde. I didn't know I had that kind of OCD in me, lol. But I had to point it out. Carry on

Totally get it... my bad. And I know better

Thanks

 

[supercorndogs]

I like being able to use a barrel nut wrench instead putting my action wrench on an action to loosen it. If my actions were shouldered profit compatible, I would have a rear entry action wrench for them.

 

[Rob01]

Not sure who uses outside action wrenches anymore but I have always used action wrenches that go in the action. I would never use an outside.

 

[supercorndogs]

Not sure who uses outside action wrenches anymore but I have always used action wrenches that go in the action. I would never use an outside.

Rear entry action wrenches are not good for removing tight barrels. Most i have seen warn against trying to remove factory barrels with them. For these reasons I would venture a guess there are still a lot of the other kind of action wrench in use. Proabaly more than rear entry action wrench.

 

[flatland1]

There are probably a lot of actions that aren't popular enough to make it worthwhile for anyone to make a rear entry wrench for them. Howa Mini comes to mind. If anyone knows of a rear entry wrench for these little actions, I'd like to know about it.

 

[Rob01]

Rear entry action wrenches are not good for removing tight barrels. Most i have seen warn against trying to remove factory barrels with them. For these reasons I would venture a guess there are still a lot of the other kind of action wrench in use. Proabaly more than rear entry action wrench.

Maybe for the initial on a factory action but then after that there is no reason to use one except as mentioned they don’t make one. With the tons of good custom actions and even the factory actions that have the factory barrel off then a rear entry would be best. I doubt more than rear entries for customs though as most with factory rifles are swapping barrels.

 

[supercorndogs]

Maybe for the initial on a factory action but then after that there is no reason to use one except as mentioned they don’t make one. With the tons of good custom actions and even the factory actions that have the factory barrel off then a rear entry would be best. I doubt more than rear entries for customs though as most with factory rifles are swapping barrels.

The rear entry is adequate, I wouldn't think its ever best, or there would not be circumstances in which you should not use it because you might break the wrench or damage your action or both.

Although going to bugholes.com I don't see a warning about barrel removal with theirs. Whats their screen name? Maybe they have a take on this.

I would never buy or use a rear entry action wrench because I don't need one. If the cost of that is only using barrel nuts well then, i already have the barrel nut wrench.

Action Wrenches

 

[Rob01]

The rear entry is adequate, I wouldn't think its ever best, or there would not be circumstances in which you should not use it because you might break the wrench or damage your action or both.

Although going to bugholes.com I don't see a warning about barrel removal with theirs. Whats their screen name? Maybe they have a take on this.

I would never buy or use a rear entry action wrench because I don't need one. If the cost of that is only using barrel nuts well then, i already have the barrel nut wrench.

Action Wrenches

Well those circumstances are due to shitty factory actions so not a real good reason. Can leave my scope on and use my rear action wrench without issue too.

I’d never use barrel nuts as I already have actions that take shouldered prefits and I don’t need to.

 

[GunnyUSMC]

There are probably a lot of actions that aren't popular enough to make it worthwhile for anyone to make a rear entry wrench for them. Howa Mini comes to mind. If anyone knows of a rear entry wrench for these little actions, I'd like to know about it.

I just heard about the Short Action Custom modular (rear entry) action wrench that supports several different actions including the HOWA 1500.

 

[GunnyUSMC]

Update on my build plans...

I had planned to use the Zermatt Origin with the KRG Bravo to save some money. However, the Origin has a swept bolt handle and it may possibly not fit in the Bravo without custom mods. I reached out to KRG to be sure. If that doesnt work... then i will likely have to go with either a different action or a different chassis. I am leaning towards the Zermatt SR3 for an extra $400 (ouch). Still less than an origin w/MDT ACC or W3. The SR3 has an integrated bolt lug as opposed to the Origin, which i like better.

 

[saddlerocker]

Update on my build plans...

I had planned to use the Zermatt Origin with the KRG Bravo to save some money. However, the Origin has a swept bolt handle and it may possibly not fit in the Bravo without custom mods. I reached out to KRG to be sure. If that doesnt work... then i will likely have to go with either a different action or a different chassis. I am leaning towards the Zermatt SR3 for an extra $400 (ouch). Still less than an origin w/MDT ACC or W3. The SR3 has an integrated bolt lug as opposed to the Origin, which i like better.

I am far from any kind of expert, but I think thousands of people are running Origins in Bravo chassis.

 

[supercorndogs]

Well those circumstances are due to shitty factory actions so not a real good reason. Can leave my scope on and use my rear action wrench without issue too.

I’d never use barrel nuts as I already have actions that take shouldered prefits and I don’t need to.

Those situations are due to where the rear entry action wrenches grab the action. It would be almost impossible to bend or twist an action with a traditional action wrench located properly. The heavier thicker actions should be harder to bend or twist.

I can loosen barrel nuts without removing scopes also. I can also adjust my headpsace at home with a wrench and barrel vice.

 

[flatland1]

I just heard about the Short Action Custom modular (rear entry) action wrench that supports several different actions including the HOWA 1500.

The Howa Mini is smaller in diameter, as well as shorter than the 1500 series. Think Sako Vixen/L461 or CZ527...the mini is similar in size.

 

[Rob01]

Update on my build plans...

I had planned to use the Zermatt Origin with the KRG Bravo to save some money. However, the Origin has a swept bolt handle and it may possibly not fit in the Bravo without custom mods. I reached out to KRG to be sure. If that doesnt work... then i will likely have to go with either a different action or a different chassis. I am leaning towards the Zermatt SR3 for an extra $400 (ouch). Still less than an origin w/MDT ACC or W3. The SR3 has an integrated bolt lug as opposed to the Origin, which i like better.

Yeah I don’t think you will have a problem with the swept bolt and Bravo as the stock is made for a Rem 700 which has a swept bolt. See what they say though but if changing get a TL3.

 

[spife7980]

I use an external wrench. Instead of buying a one off action wrench for each I’ve used the same wrench on a remington, howa, zermatt, arc and ruger.

 

[flatland1]

I have a Brownells external action wrench with several 'tops' for different actions. What has worked for the Howa Mini is to use the Win M70 top with a short piece of fairly thick rubber sprayer hose slipped over the Mini action. As far as Howa actions go, with the older, pre-HACT trigger models, it was basically impossible to break loose the barrels - I wound up chucking the barrels on these older actions in the lathe and cutting a tension relief groove right up against the receiver face. That ruined the factory bbl, but it relieved the thread tension to the point where the action was unscrewed by hand on a couple of those rifles.

 

[GunnyUSMC]

Update on my build...

After much analysis and debate, i decided to with the following:

• Zermatt Arms Origin SA
• 28" Criterion bull barrel, non-shouldered w/barrel nut chambered in .223 match
• Triggertech Diamond single stage flat

What i like about this approach, as i have learned from this thread, i can mix it up as i want. My next barrel will likely be a .223 Wylde 26" shouldered prefit. For now though, i want to focus on putting together something good for F-Class FTR. Not to say that the .223 Wylde would not work, i just needed to start somewhere and the 28" barrel was in stock. I ordered this through Northern Shooter Supply and they are sending me the external action wrench, barrel nut, barrel nut wrench and go-no-go gauges (should be here by end of week).

Where I am stuck though is the stock/chassis. The choice is between the MDT XRS and the KRG Bravo. What I am hung up on is that I want my bipod to be as close to the muzzle as I can. On the Bravo, I can install the Arca spigot mount XL on the forend to give me an extra 7"s but if the forend is not very long to begin with, that may not mean anything. As for the XRS, its forend is longer than the Bravo (i think) but i am not sure if I can mount a 10" mlok Arca rail and push it out beyond the XRS forend and, if so, how far.

Does anyone have experience with the Bravo (and possibly the KRG Arca spigot mount XL) and if so, can you tell me how long the forend is?

 

[GunnyUSMC]

also open to recommendations for AICS magazines that allow for the longest .223 COAL....

 

[spife7980]

As for the XRS, its forend is longer than the Bravo (i think) but i am not sure if I can mount a 10" mlok Arca rail and push it out beyond the XRS forend and, if so, how far.

bravo has a 9" foreend, xrs is 12"

I put a 12" universal 419 rail on my xrs, it has to slide forward a smidge to get the last rail hole past the fore end mounting and into an mlock slot but it worked fine.

Ive since gone to the xrs enclosed fore end which has an integrated arca, which is only like 50 bucks more than the 419 rail so I did that and moved the 419 rail to a different stock.

Accurate 223 mags are great for me too

 

[stevieb92]

also open to recommendations for AICS magazines that allow for the longest .223 COAL....

I've been using the MDT metal .223 mags with great success. I'm not sure if they allow the longest COAL though. It was plenty for the Wylde chamber in my barrel.

 

[Rob01]

also open to recommendations for AICS magazines that allow for the longest .223 COAL....

I use the MDT Poly mags. They are cheaper than the steel and work great. Allow out to 2.550" but you won't be near that with that chamber you got. On Black Friday they are usually around $25 each.

.223 MDT Polymer AICS Magazine

mdttac.com

 

[Shiftyk5]

I use the MDT Poly mags. They are cheaper than the steel and work great. Allow out to 2.550" but you won't be near that with that chamber you got. On Black Friday they are usually around $25 each.

.223 MDT Polymer AICS Magazine

mdttac.com

I’ll second these, really like them. I bought 6 on sale.

 

[GunnyUSMC]

I use the MDT Poly mags. They are cheaper than the steel and work great. Allow out to 2.550" but you won't be near that with that chamber you got. On Black Friday they are usually around $25 each.

Thanks... I normally like to go with metal mags but it seems like everyone really likes the Poly so that is what i went with

 

[GunnyUSMC]

update on my build...

I ended up ordering the KRG Bravo with the Arca Spigot XL. This should get my bipod appx 17" out from the magwell.

Now everything is on order and should start coming in by end of this week. I will share pictures once everything comes in and gets put together.

Thanks guys for all the awesome feedback!!

 

[redneckbmxer24]

Accurate mags are the best when it comes to AICS 223 mags.

 

[Rob01]

Accurate mags are the best when it comes to AICS 223 mags.

Unless you want to load over 2,325".

 

[spife7980]

Unless you want to load over 2,325".

It’s easy to sand the front top lip out to allow 2.550 as well. It is a chore vs coming that way but it’s easy enough to do.
And then you can drop the hell out of the metal mag and not worry it’ll split in half like those damn actual aics mags would on cue. Not sure how the mdt stands up there.

 

[Rob01]

It’s easy to sand the front top lip out to allow 2.550 as well. It is a chore vs coming that way but it’s easy enough to do.
And then you can drop the hell out of the metal mag and not worry it’ll split in half like those damn actual aics mags would on cue. Not sure how the mdt stands up there.

So spend almost twice as much and have to do work to make it work. Nah. Pass.

I have dropped my poly MDT mags in matches and no issues splitting yet. For the $25 I got them for on Black Friday if they split in a few years I will get some more but not overly worried.

 

[redneckbmxer24]

Unless you want to load over 2,325".

It takes all of a couple minutes to open the front up which you should do anyway so bullet tips don’t hang up under it.

I’ll take that any day for smooth reliable feeding. I’ve got two of the MDT’s sitting here and they don’t feed anywhere near like the six accurates do with my impact. If they don’t run right in my tikka 223 they’re going back to MDT to be replaced. They had feeding issues in an MDT chassis.

 

[Rob01]

It takes all of a couple minutes to open the front up which you should do anyway so bullet tips don’t hang up under it.

I’ll take that any day for smooth reliable feeding. I’ve got two of the MDT’s sitting here and they don’t feed anywhere near like the six accurates do with my impact. If they don’t run right in my tikka 223 they’re going back to MDT to be replaced. They had feeding issues in an MDT chassis.

Again not doing work to an item that costs me more to make it what it should have been to begin with. No need to open anything on my MDTs.

As for feeding, I use them in a Bighorn TL3, which uses the same boltface as the Origin he is going to be using, and they feed like butter from the MDT poly mags. Sorry yours don't feed and you had to use the others but unless I see a need I am not going elsewhere.

 

[redneckbmxer24]

I don’t know where you’re buying your MDT mags but my MDT’s were $70 and so were the Accurate’s.

 

[Rob01]

I don’t know where you’re buying your MDT mags but my MDT’s were $70 and so were the Accurate’s.

Poly. Not steel. Poly are $40 and about $25 on Black Friday.

.223 MDT Polymer AICS Magazine

mdttac.com