I've got a 1911 Colt Commander Lightweight in stainless. Two big initial were engraved on the flat, right side behind breach. Too deep to just grind off in my opinion. I'm wondering if this is recoverable - for instance can it be welded and reground by a gunsmith? Any recommendations? Thanks.
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Gunsmithing Removing engraving, Stainless Colt Commander
- Thread starter fmorelli
- Start date
Initials cannot be disguised. Original owner had it done - vanity initials. Cerakoting slide after repair is a good idea. It needs to go to someone that's good with a TIG welder and knows how to keep as much heat out of the slide.
Without knowing for certain what grade/series SS it is you just asking for trouble.
Chances are it's 416 Martensitic.
416 is not generally recommended for welding due to its high sulfur content resulting in hot cracking or it's hardening capability resulting in cold cracking.
It can be welded as a last resort, but there's a procedure to be followed that requires preheating to 200c-300c, a controlled cool down and a post weld heat treat to reharden.
It also requires the use of a low hydrogen filler to avoid porocity, among other things.
Chances are it's 416 Martensitic.
416 is not generally recommended for welding due to its high sulfur content resulting in hot cracking or it's hardening capability resulting in cold cracking.
It can be welded as a last resort, but there's a procedure to be followed that requires preheating to 200c-300c, a controlled cool down and a post weld heat treat to reharden.
It also requires the use of a low hydrogen filler to avoid porocity, among other things.
Here are my three suggestions:
1) find an engraver to hide it with more engraving
2) find a shield,symbol, logo, trinket, Templar cross, or something that will cover it. Silver solder on.
3)..... Hear me out... Since you mentioned cerakote.... can you fill the engraving with JB weld, buff out a d cerakote?
Anything you do is going to cost some money.
I'd sell it or just have a new slide fitted. Probably the same cost
1) find an engraver to hide it with more engraving
2) find a shield,symbol, logo, trinket, Templar cross, or something that will cover it. Silver solder on.
3)..... Hear me out... Since you mentioned cerakote.... can you fill the engraving with JB weld, buff out a d cerakote?
Anything you do is going to cost some money.
I'd sell it or just have a new slide fitted. Probably the same cost
Interesting ... thank you for the details. Just curious if there are variances. You mention high sulfur content.
Grade 416 stainless steel has an elemental composition of 16-18% chromium (Cr), 12-14% manganese (Mn), 0.15%-0.6% carbon (C), 0.06%-0.15% silicon (Si), 1%-1.5% molybdenum (Mo) and 0.2%-0.8% nickel (Ni). It also contains trace amounts of phosphorus (P) and sulfur (S).
I did post a couple photos above for context. Thanks again for your feedback.
- Mar 15, 2018
- 1,282
- 5,088
Okay, well now I understand why you want it gone. That's fucking hideous. Maybe the guy's name was Ass Hat. TIG weld and grind.
- Mar 15, 2018
- 1,282
- 5,088
P.s. Shop around for a (small) local shop. When I needed something powder coated, I was quoted $600. I found a Father and Son shop locally that did an outstanding (absolutely beautiful job) for $75.
Post it on Gunbroker as captured at Berchestaden by a Trooper from E 506th and make a killing.
Part of the guns story. Let it ride.
Find a local knifemaker that has a flat platen for their grinder . They can sand the area behind the serrations and remove very little metal.
That could absolutely be milled off. It's not nearly as deep as the slide serrations, so there's so meat left there for sure.
yes there is. Had not really considered this. But if both sides got milled equally might look pretty normal.
Mill it off. A simple hand file then a checkering file on both sides to the area; better grip for racking the slide.
American Hammer!
Have the slide serrations extended all the way to the rear. It'll look dumb.
Honestly replacing the slide would cost about the same as some of the good options.
Amen. It's far from a museum piece. There's the old saying...don't spend $700 to turn a $600 gun into a $500 gun. Or something like that.
Have the slide serrations extended all the way to the rear. It'll look dumb.
Honestly replacing the slide would cost about the same as some of the good options.
Amen. It's far from a museum piece. There's the old saying...don't spend $700 to turn a $600 gun into a $500 gun. Or something like that.
FWIW:
On more than one occassion I've been asked to unring a bell with a TIG welder. If the piece is going to be coated with something like CK afterwards, my go to is silicon bronze as I don't need to get the substrate to its melting point for it to stick. (I call the stuff "machinists bondo" because you can save your bacon with it if you know what your doing)
If the piece is going to be chemically finished (blued, parked, nitride, etc...) then it'll have to be welded BUT the odds of it color matching when finished are almost zero. (you'll have better luck winning the lotto while being struck by lightening during a plane crash as your eaten by a shark)
With SS you can sand/polish it, but even then it won't match. A full polish will tend to take on a watermark-like appearance. Blasting won't hide it either. What does work reasonably well for SS is sanding to around a 320-400 grit finish as the tool marks from the paper do a pretty good job of hiding the tone difference.
Good luck.
C.
On more than one occassion I've been asked to unring a bell with a TIG welder. If the piece is going to be coated with something like CK afterwards, my go to is silicon bronze as I don't need to get the substrate to its melting point for it to stick. (I call the stuff "machinists bondo" because you can save your bacon with it if you know what your doing)
If the piece is going to be chemically finished (blued, parked, nitride, etc...) then it'll have to be welded BUT the odds of it color matching when finished are almost zero. (you'll have better luck winning the lotto while being struck by lightening during a plane crash as your eaten by a shark)
With SS you can sand/polish it, but even then it won't match. A full polish will tend to take on a watermark-like appearance. Blasting won't hide it either. What does work reasonably well for SS is sanding to around a 320-400 grit finish as the tool marks from the paper do a pretty good job of hiding the tone difference.
Good luck.
C.
Thanks. I sent it to a friend to machine the area behind the serrations ... I suspect it is 10 to 15 thou. I'll finish the sides with wet dry and bead blast the matte area to get everything uniform again. Will post pics.
I've hit similar messes with a surface grinder then skimmed the length to match. You end up with the portion behind the serrations 90* to the slide grind....but it can look good....and it can always be dusted in glass to blend.
Is this machine powerful enough to remove material from herdic if it's 100% pure?
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