Ruger Precision Rifle Discussion

Are you going to sell these?

I would have to make them a little better, in which case I would have to make a block. HOWEVER, if you are interested and want to make a go at it yourself, I will tell you how I did it.

The one advantage I did have, is having multiple rifles so that I could attach 2 of the existing cheek pieces together to make a form.

Hit me via a PM and we can discuss it and not clog up the thread.
 
That is good to know. I have a .300 PRC I have not shot yet and will watch out for it occurring with mine.

I spoke to Ruger today. They had never heard of the problem, however they want me to ship the bolt and firing pin assembly back to them.

The bolt handle has an indentation machined into it so the firing pin stop ears can lock into it (look at the schematic in the manual). The indentation has rounded off on one side and is no longer square on mine. I expect the ears are sliding past and out of the indentation groove and that is where the problem is. I'll let you know what they say when it comes back.
 
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You can see in the photos that the 90 edge has worn away in the indentation.

IMG_3616.jpg


IMG_3617.jpg
 
I wonder when Triggertech will drop some info on there new RPR trigger
This is an email I sent to to TriggerTech last weekend.

Hi
I see Ruger has a RPR with a TT trigger. Will that trigger be available for retail sales? Thanks. Steve

I received this reply Monday morning.

Hi Steve,

Thanks for contacting us. We are still developing the aftermarket triggers that should be released in the first half of 2021.

Thanks
Mark
 
This is an email I sent to to TriggerTech last weekend.

Hi
I see Ruger has a RPR with a TT trigger. Will that trigger be available for retail sales? Thanks. Steve

I received this reply Monday morning.

Hi Steve,

Thanks for contacting us. We are still developing the aftermarket triggers that should be released in the first half of 2021.

Thanks
Mark
Wonder if they will make both single and 2 stage triggers
 
Little question, as i read it you dont use dummy rounds when dry firing your rifle, do you?
Are you not afraid thats some problems just occur because of that? I mean the bolt is not meant for firing the pin "in the air"?
You’re safe to dry fire with no dummy rounds. Nothing will happen to your firing pin
 
You can see in the photos that the 90 edge has worn away in the indentation.

View attachment 7505583

View attachment 7505585

Yep that warn bolt handle is the likely root cause of original problem. Ruger replaced mine when I sent in my bolt. I'll have to disassemble it periodically now to check for any wear in the future. Anyone make a hardened handle thats more robust to the wear? Ruger should've designed this part to be more robust to this type of wear.

Between having to buy a decent aftermarket barrel to get acceptable accuracy, a TBD (hopefully trigger tech available soon) trigger to eliminate creep , and a bolt handle that doesn't wear in a few hundred rounds, I should've just spent the money on a custom rifle and not dealt with all this junk.
 
Anyone make a hardened handle thats more robust to the wear? Ruger should've designed this part to be more robust to this type of wear.

you would have to find out if the bolt handles are common between the 2 size rifles


 
Yep that warn bolt handle is the likely root cause of original problem. Ruger replaced mine when I sent in my bolt. I'll have to disassemble it periodically now to check for any wear in the future. Anyone make a hardened handle thats more robust to the wear? Ruger should've designed this part to be more robust to this type of wear.

Between having to buy a decent aftermarket barrel to get acceptable accuracy, a TBD (hopefully trigger tech available soon) trigger to eliminate creep , and a bolt handle that doesn't wear in a few hundred rounds, I should've just spent the money on a custom rifle and not dealt with all this junk.
How many rounds do you have down your factory barrel?
 
Gotcha. My factory 6.5 barrel didn’t come into its own until after 300 or so rounds then my groups tightened up
I think the performance of the 6mm and 6.5mm versions seem to be better than other calibers. The saami chamber specs are better than the older calibers and ruger won't use match-type chambers for the .300 win mag (mk248 for example) . That's one reason I got better performance from the krieger barrel even before it was broken in. Higher velocity too. Another thing I noticed is the windage adjustment in the scope was centered in its travel . The ruger factory barrel required several MOA of windage to zero. The quality just wasn't there. Like I said, in retrospect I don't think this rifle was a good purchase once a good barrel, trigger, ergonomic grip, and reliability items such as a more durable bolt handle are purchased to make the rifle work The 6mm and 6.5mm may not need a new barrel right away so that's the way to go vs. magnum variant.
 
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I think the performance of the 6mm and 6.5mm versions seem to be better than other calibers. The saami chamber specs are better than the older calibers and ruger won't use match-type chambers for the .300 win mag (mk248 for example) . That's one reason I got better performance from the krieger barrel even before it was broken in. Higher velocity too. Another thing I noticed is the windage adjustment in the scope was centered in its travel . The ruger factory barrel required several MOA of windage to zero. The quality just wasn't there. Like I said, in retrospect I don't think this rifle was a good purchase once a good barrel, trigger, ergonomic grip, and reliability items such as a more durable bolt handle are purchased to make the rifle work The 6mm and 6.5mm may not need a new barrel right away so that's the way to go vs. magnum variant.
You could be onto something. My buddy's son has one in 300 WM that's a tac driver but I understand that may not be the norm. My own 6mm shot a one hole group the first time I fired it.
 
Got my magnum bolt back from ruger. Looks like they installed a new handle and shroud. No written explanation of what was wrong Dry fired it s few times. Seems to work out but for how long?

It's probably going to last until you round those edges off the bolt handle again. I went a different direction and ordered a 17-4 stainless handle from Anarchy.
 
It's probably going to last until you round those edges off the bolt handle again. I went a different direction and ordered a 17-4 stainless handle from Anarchy.
I was thinking of doing the same thing. I assume the material used by anarchy is harder and more durable than that used by ruger for factory handkle? Does the factory knob fit on the anarchy handle ?
 
I think the performance of the 6mm and 6.5mm versions seem to be better than other calibers. The saami chamber specs are better than the older calibers and ruger won't use match-type chambers for the .300 win mag (mk248 for example) . That's one reason I got better performance from the krieger barrel even before it was broken in. Higher velocity too. Another thing I noticed is the windage adjustment in the scope was centered in its travel . The ruger factory barrel required several MOA of windage to zero. The quality just wasn't there. Like I said, in retrospect I don't think this rifle was a good purchase once a good barrel, trigger, ergonomic grip, and reliability items such as a more durable bolt handle are purchased to make the rifle work The 6mm and 6.5mm may not need a new barrel right away so that's the way to go vs. magnum variant.
Very good points made! It’s terrible to feel that way about a rifle purchase. I wonder how many others are going through similar issues to what you are dealing with. I agree with your point about the ruger barrel quality, mine would start to walk after 10-15 rounds, it seemed like once it got a little hot the groups started to suffer. After 1500 rounds I bought a PVA and that problem went away, also had tighter groups. It shoots big holes with factory ammo now.
 
I was thinking of doing the same thing. I assume the material used by anarchy is harder and more durable than that used by ruger for factory handkle? Does the factory knob fit on the anarchy handle ?

Not sure about the factory knob. I purchased a new one from Anarchy. Coming USPS so probably wont see it for a couple of weeks.
 
I read today Ruger doesn't have a listing in there catalog for the gen 3 6mm any more it looks like they discontinued it
I just got a 6mm Creedmoor last November 2020, Model 18032 Gen3, and now all I see on the Ruger is a Model 18085 for $2399 with quite a few upgrades/differences and I got my 6mm for $1206 + tax, shipping and receiving it at a local FFL. Glad I got it when I did, even a better
deal than I thought for my first precision rifle! I'm 69yrs old just starting this long range adventure and love it!
 
I just got a 6mm Creedmoor last November 2020, Model 18032 Gen3, and now all I see on the Ruger is a Model 18085 for $2399 with quite a few upgrades/differences and I got my 6mm for $1206 + tax, shipping and receiving it at a local FFL. Glad I got it when I did, even a better
deal than I thought for my first precision rifle! I'm 69yrs old just starting this long range adventure and love it!
Sounds like the new 6 creed prs production model you can’t get yet. I like the handguard and am interested in the trigger tech
 
I'm really new to the precision shooting but that is what I think too from what little I know. All I know so far is that this rifle shoots a lot better than I do so far! But I do enjoy it!
The RPR is a great entry level long range rifle IMO. I like my gen2 6.5 and shoot it quite often still. A 6 creed will be very enjoyable even with factory ammo. I went down the rabbit hole with mine over the last 3.5 years and have bought just about everything aftermarket that you can for one. They are fun to shoot
 
The RPR is a great entry level long range rifle IMO. I like my gen2 6.5 and shoot it quite often still. A 6 creed will be very enjoyable even with factory ammo. I went down the rabbit hole with mine over the last 3.5 years and have bought just about everything aftermarket that you can for one. They are fun to shoot

A couple changes to my Gen2 .308 and having a ball with it shooting 40-70 rounds a week. Now, I've mounting a Vortex Golden Eagle (not in the pic below) on it to help me see better further out (like at 1,000 yds).

My RPR 1.jpg


168 SMK - 43.8 gr IMR 4064 - 2020-9-11.jpg
 
A couple changes to my Gen2 .308 and having a ball with it shooting 40-70 rounds a week. Now, I've mounting a Vortex Golden Eagle (not in the pic below) on it to help me see better further out (like at 1,000 yds).

View attachment 7518198

View attachment 7518200
You should try a 3 port brake on that, I bet you’ll have a lot more reduction in recoil then what you have now. Nice shooting!
 
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A couple changes to my Gen2 .308 and having a ball with it shooting 40-70 rounds a week. Now, I've mounting a Vortex Golden Eagle (not in the pic below) on it to help me see better further out (like at 1,000 yds).

View attachment 7518198

View attachment 7518200
I also just added the MPA grip and that adjustable bag rider but the base rang has been closed for lead abatement hopefully some time in Jan back open. With ammo prices being what they are I am saving my rounds for the thousand
 
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You should try a 3 port brake on that, I bet you’ll have a lot more reduction in recoil then what you have now. Nice shooting!

No doubt about the recoil. It's Harrell's all one piece tuner-break and there was a noticeable increase in recoil from the factory break. I have a new tuner on the way that'll allow various brakes to be mounted along with it without any need for any machining modifications. So, I'll be mounting the factory break back on, though I do have a break that works well and helps stay on target well though a bit ugly (the JP Recoil Eliminator - see pic below). Typically though, recoil for me is not a big deal, especially since I usually shoot my RPR free recoil.

JP-Recoil-Eliminator.jpg


Over 4500 rounds now through this Krieger barrel and still getting a lot of bugholes. I've already got a new Krieger bull barrel sitting in the wait for when I start losing accuracy.
 
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I also just added the MPA grip and that adjustable bag rider but the base rang has been closed for lead abatement hopefully some time in Jan back open. With ammo prices being what they are I am saving my rounds for the thousand
I've heard the MPA grip isn't a straight 'screw it on' addition, requires some modification. Any comment on that?
 
All I did with my right handed MPA grip was to just screw it on (on my Gen 2 RPR). There's been no interference with the safety or anything else.
There seems to be a ledge on the top, inside right of the grip that doesn't let it slide all the way onto the gun with mine (also Gen2). I can drag out the Dremel or a file, but it's gonna be a hack job.
 
There seems to be a ledge on the top, inside right of the grip that doesn't let it slide all the way onto the gun with mine (also Gen2). I can drag out the Dremel or a file, but it's gonna be a hack job.

Hmmm??? I think the only little thing with mine was that the safety stop on the right side dug into the grip a little as I tighten the screw on the grip. I wonder if MPA changed up their grip design a little since I bought mine??? 🤷‍♂️

Here's some pics of mine on my RPR:

MPA (1).JPG
MPA (2).JPG


MPA (3).JPG
 
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Thanks for the pics. I'll see if I can get some decent ones and show you what I'm seeing.
Please do. Mine just needed a small notch cut out of the inner circumference to clear the safety stop on the right side. It bolted right up after that. That grip was one of my first upgrades to the rifle
 
Ok, here we go:
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You can see it never reaches or touches the safety stop on either side. There's a ridge along the right, inside top edge of the grip, and it's stopping on the frame of the rifle. I considered trying to flex the grip, but the material isn't very flexy.

I may have to grind that ridge down with something to give some relief to slide up into place.