Ruger Precision Rifle Discussion

Need a favor with buttstock hinge on RPR.
When you fold the buttstock on your RPR does the pin spin on the front half of the hinge or not.
Easy way is to mark hinge pin with shapie or pencil fold stock while looking from top and see if hinge pin rotates.

Thanks
My pin rotates with the stock as it turns. It’s a Gen 2 if that makes a difference.
 
  • Like
Reactions: whatsupdoc
New guy looking for input...
I bought a pre-owned 6.5 Creedmore (mfg 2016) that has what looks like an ACC comp installed. I want replace the OEM hand guard with a Seekins product but the barrel nut won’t fit over the comp so I need to take it off. I did an initial trial run but I think I need a barrel clamp and heat. I have a bench vice but am a bit hesitant to clamp it in because of the torque on the barrel/barrel nut/ receiver. The Seekins install is straight forward but the comp is new territory for me. I’ve been building ARs for 15+ years but the RPR is a new platform for me. Any advice is appreciated.
 
New guy looking for input...
I bought a pre-owned 6.5 Creedmore (mfg 2016) that has what looks like an ACC comp installed. I want replace the OEM hand guard with a Seekins product but the barrel nut won’t fit over the comp so I need to take it off. I did an initial trial run but I think I need a barrel clamp and heat. I have a bench vice but am a bit hesitant to clamp it in because of the torque on the barrel/barrel nut/ receiver. The Seekins install is straight forward but the comp is new territory for me. I’ve been building ARs for 15+ years but the RPR is a new platform for me. Any advice is appreciated.
I would try clamping the barrel between a couple pieces of wood in your vice. Get it positioned so that the comp is as close to the vice jaws as possible to prevent excess twisting on your barrel. Then heat the comp a bit and try to loosen it.
 
Last edited:
Do you have to buy his butt pad separate from the stock? So you buy the $400 stock then the $100 buttpad?
I am using the factory butpad and plate. Works just fine. Literally screws right in with no modifications tothe stock or the butpad. I would think that the Target Tool butpad would look great but I am retired and since what I had worked, why change?
 
Thanks for the advice. I’ll try that and let you know how I make out.
@Islander - I used your wood block suggestion adding a thin layer of leather from an old work glove. Instead of heat, I soaked the muzzle device in water over night because I thought that it could be Rocksett instead of red locktite. Needless to say, the muzzle device is off and the new Seekins SP3R rail is installed.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Islander
Thanks for the advice. I’ll try that and let you know how I make out.
I would bet that the comp was rocksett’ed in. Heat won’t work on it. Rocksett has high heat thresholds, but is water soluble. Let the barrel sit in boiling water with the comp submerged for about 20 minutes and give it a try. Mine came off easily doing this.


ugh, sorry just read the last post and saw you got it squared away. Disregard... I’ll show myself out.
 
I would bet that the comp was rocksett’ed in. Heat won’t work on it. Rocksett has high heat thresholds, but is water soluble. Let the barrel sit in boiling water with the comp submerged for about 20 minutes and give it a try. Mine came off easily doing this.


ugh, sorry just read the last post and saw you got it squared away. Disregard... I’ll show myself out.
No worries, glad you took interest.
 
I have another question regarding my RPR. The rifle came with a Vortex Gen I PRS on 1.25“ American Precision rings. The original owner swapped out the Ruger stock for a PRS. I would like to swap the rings out for either taller rings or a mount. Any ideas?


I use the American Defense AD-recon mount on my RPR. Not the most expensive but works well for me with the Magpul PRS stock. Mine is the 1.5" height version.
 
I know a lot of guys are using the Seekins handguard on their RPR. Just wanted to point out that Magpul makes an ARCA rail that fits real nice on the Seekins with just a little modification and is a bit cheaper than most ARCA rails I have seen. I can get pictures if anyone is interested.
 
Hope this is the right forum for this post as I do not see a "General Discussions". Anyway, thinking about getting an RPR and re-barreling in 6XC. What caliber would be the easiest to sell the factory barrel? Also, the 5.56 rifles are discontinued. Were there problems with these or just not enough sales? Thanks
 
Warning I'm a newbe so... Anyway last November I bought a Ruger Precision Rifle in 6.5 PRC with the idea of hitting something at 1000 yards. After 60 rounds marginal progress was gained. Marginal being the operative word. Since then the 6.5 PRC round is as rare as the Dodo bird. I saved my brass but the required large rifle primers aren't available either. So what I'm considering is converting it to the 6.5 Creedmoor. Since I plan to switch back to the 6.5 PRC when it hits the store shelves so I don't want to spend a lot of money. I'm hoping the same barrel can be used. Any advise would be welcome.
 
Warning I'm a newbe so... Anyway last November I bought a Ruger Precision Rifle in 6.5 PRC with the idea of hitting something at 1000 yards. After 60 rounds marginal progress was gained. Marginal being the operative word. Since then the 6.5 PRC round is as rare as the Dodo bird. I saved my brass but the required large rifle primers aren't available either. So what I'm considering is converting it to the 6.5 Creedmoor. Since I plan to switch back to the 6.5 PRC when it hits the store shelves so I don't want to spend a lot of money. I'm hoping the same barrel can be used. Any advise would be welcome.
You cannot use the dame barrel for 2 different cartridges.

Also, unless you get a new bolt, you will not be able to convert the rifle to 6.5 Creedmoor, and even then I am not sure they are the same rifle.
 
First, I am going to make an assumption you have a good, repeatable scope solidly mounted.

I was thinking switching between these two totally different rounds would be a difficult task. My thoughts, instead of investing in Creedmoor, invest in a good chronograph and check out Hornady’s ballistic app. (Of course if you have already done this, please disregard)

With this information, getting on targets at long range will be doable.

Reloading also helps as you can shoot more for less (assuming the current political and epidemic ever stabilize and supplies again become readily available at resonable prices.).

Seems like all’s i have been doing this evening is assume
 
Warning I'm a newbe so... Anyway last November I bought a Ruger Precision Rifle in 6.5 PRC with the idea of hitting something at 1000 yards. After 60 rounds marginal progress was gained. Marginal being the operative word. Since then the 6.5 PRC round is as rare as the Dodo bird. I saved my brass but the required large rifle primers aren't available either. So what I'm considering is converting it to the 6.5 Creedmoor. Since I plan to switch back to the 6.5 PRC when it hits the store shelves so I don't want to spend a lot of money. I'm hoping the same barrel can be used. Any advise would be welcome.

Me personally I would purchase a 6.5 creed RPR. You can use your scope on both platforms. Or you can also sell your prc if ammo is scarce. You’ll find more creedmoor in the world than prc during these trying times. Unfortunately for me and the world of precision shooting, I’ve spent money on stuff to try and eventually sell later because it didn’t work out for me. Rifles are tools and sometimes require trial and error to get what works best for you.
 
  • Like
Reactions: HKshooter
Need a little help with velocity, I ran out of varget so i switched to IMR 4064. My chrono is down. Can anybody help with MV with 168 grain AMax, 42.7 grains of 4064, .308 out of factory barrel?

Need more info before anyone can offer any meaningful MV, for example:

Barrel length (though if it's factory, then it's 20"), the cartridge's COAL, case stamp/manufacturer (it's an issue as case volumes can be different like Winchester's having much more than others).
 
For anyone interested, I got my barrel issues sorted out. Turns out the threads were cut with a slightly oversized major diameter. McGowan had me send it back to them (free of charge) with my action and barrel nut and got it fixed it for me.. Great customer service, and everything I've seen from the few times I've had this rifle out tells me that this will be a good shooting barrel.
 
After reading all 99 pages, I have bookmarked and learned alot. I finally shot my RPR and I am very grateful to be apart of this group. This is my first bolt gun and I feel like it is a great place to start.
20201130_162711.jpg

Rifle and Parts Breakdown
• Ruger Precision Rifle Gen3 Barrett Brown 308
• Primary Arms SLX 4-14x44mm Illum ACSS HUD DMR-308
• Aero Precision Ultralight 30mm Scope Mount blk 1.5"
• Magpul Rifle Bipod 1913 Blk
• B5 Systems Type23 P-Grip Coyote
 
Does anyone have pic of what they did to put MPA vertical grip on there RPR I don't want to hack this up very much and it seems like the safety will still be in the way of the shelf thanks

How's this? :

MPA Grip.jpg



On the other side there's still no interference and a gap between the finger rest and the lower frame:

MPA Grip r.jpg
 
Last edited:
Ruger Custom Shop RPR 6mm Creedmoor Model #18085

18085-2.jpg

18085-3.jpg

18085-4.jpg

I don't think this has been mentioned yet.
Most interesting parts to me are:
"Lower" magazine well halves are precision machined from aerospace-grade 7075-T6 aluminum and are Type III hard-coat anodized for maximum durability.

Updated machining on the "lower" magazine well halves provide a flared magwell for improved magazine reloading capabilities.

Improved firing tip geometry enhances functionality with a wide variety of primers while allowing for decreased force necessary to manipulate the bolt.
 
Last edited: