Ruger Precision Rifle Discussion

[DRAGON64]

So, I was not able to bring the 308 RPR home from the FFL, as the ATF is experiencing a 3-day delay on all transfers do the "panic buying" going on right now. But I did get to handle the rifle a bit... So that Gen III handguard (M-Lok) has a lot of sharp edges running the its full length...

Anyway, due to the proximity of the weekend, I will not get to pick up the rifle until Tuesday. Glad I do not have that 10-day wait like Cali. I would go nutz and take everyone around with me...

 

[CNC-Dude]

 

[CNC-Dude]

Here is mine in 6.5 Creedmoor a few weeks ago just getting warmed up at 1000 yards. The hole at the top of the group was the cold bore shot. .58 MOA with the first 3 shots of the day at 1000 is pretty good I think.

 

[Islander]

I swapped the factory brake on my Gen 3 6.5CM with a APA Fat Bastard and got to try it out today and WOW what a difference it made. I wish I had a medium to compare it to but before I really couldn't stay on target after a shot but can definitely now. It's night and day difference. Length and weight wasn't a concern so I went with the Fat. I didn't use any of the tuning ports...just wide open.Just wanted to share my experience.

That’s great to hear. I have the same problem with way to much muzzle jump and not being able to stay on target for follow up shots or even spot hits or misses. Might have to try a new break.

 

[HKshooter]

A brake can help stay on target during follow up but don't blame one for either being able to stay on target or not. The gun recoils the same with every shot for any given set up, the key to staying on target is technique. One of the things I practice on the most and have had the most trouble with is follow through.
Some of you may remember the old Paladin Press book from Major John Plaster "The Ultimate Sniper". Many of the basics in that book will hold true and valid as long as men, not robots, fire rifles. Even then one cold argue they still apply, they are just better overcome by mechanical means, not human.
One of Plaster's preaching points is consistency equals accuracy and one of the hardest to obtain items on the list is follow through.
Basically, if the shooter has a good technique and proper follow through, when the rifle naturally recovers from recoil and settles back down into the bags and/or bipod the shooter will once again be looking at the target through the scope. This applies to all things that shoot a projectile regardless of muzzle device or not.
When I shoot I strive for the consistency that allows me to absorb the recoil and then see my target through the scope after that recoil. I know that if after the rifle fires I'm looking up over the berm or at the target board next door that I'm not being consistent in how I hold the rifle so I work on the basics until I've arrived at a place where I can fire the rifle, see the target through the scope after recoil, shot after shot. Once I get this down then I can begin to concentrate on group and shot placement. In my experience my groups are much more consistent when I'm tuned in to my rifle's follow through.
There's no argument that an effective brake can help minimize how much the rifle moves during the shot cycle but even with this limited movement there is still a need for proper follow through. In other words, a brake won't suddenly make a rifle perfectly still and always on target all by itself.
For what it's worth I've never had a brake on a rifle until I obtained the RPR and still managed effective follow through. And in fact, I find the brake super annoying and am tempted to remove it. The 6mm CM doesn't have any appreciable recoil anyhow and I have to double up hearing protection just to shoot it.
My .02 and worth what you paid for it.

 

[s11033]

For those of us that are too cheap to upgrade to a Timney trigger... Is anyone selling a low resistance trigger adjustment spring that provides a positive reset without raising the trigger’s pull weight? The stock trigger feels great to me with the adjustment spring removed, but I have to throw my bolt open to avoid failures. I’ve read that stoning some part of the safety blade solves the issue too, but I haven’t found any details on what it is that needs to be stoned.

In the same vane, what are the top alternatives right now to the Magpul PRS stock? I’m currently using a LuthAR MBA-1, but I think it looks clunky. I’m seeing the FAB RAPS ($155) that looks sleek, the TacStar AMRS ($100) that looks like good features for the money, and the discontinued Seekins ($150) that looks lacking in features. Did I miss any?

Thanks!

 

[Islander]

A brake can help stay on target during follow up but don't blame one for either being able to stay on target or not. The gun recoils the same with every shot for any given set up, the key to staying on target is technique. One of the things I practice on the most and have had the most trouble with is follow through.
Some of you may remember the old Paladin Press book from Major John Plaster "The Ultimate Sniper". Many of the basics in that book will hold true and valid as long as men, not robots, fire rifles. Even then one cold argue they still apply, they are just better overcome by mechanical means, not human.
One of Plaster's preaching points is consistency equals accuracy and one of the hardest to obtain items on the list is follow through.
Basically, if the shooter has a good technique and proper follow through, when the rifle naturally recovers from recoil and settles back down into the bags and/or bipod the shooter will once again be looking at the target through the scope. This applies to all things that shoot a projectile regardless of muzzle device or not.
When I shoot I strive for the consistency that allows me to absorb the recoil and then see my target through the scope after that recoil. I know that if after the rifle fires I'm looking up over the berm or at the target board next door that I'm not being consistent in how I hold the rifle so I work on the basics until I've arrived at a place where I can fire the rifle, see the target through the scope after recoil, shot after shot. Once I get this down then I can begin to concentrate on group and shot placement. In my experience my groups are much more consistent when I'm tuned in to my rifle's follow through.
There's no argument that an effective brake can help minimize how much the rifle moves during the shot cycle but even with this limited movement there is still a need for proper follow through. In other words, a brake won't suddenly make a rifle perfectly still and always on target all by itself.
For what it's worth I've never had a brake on a rifle until I obtained the RPR and still managed effective follow through. And in fact, I find the brake super annoying and am tempted to remove it. The 6mm CM doesn't have any appreciable recoil anyhow and I have to double up hearing protection just to shoot it.
My .02 and worth what you paid for it.

Solid advice. Thanks

 

[Dead Eye Dick]

No Dog In Hunt.

A local gunshop in Monroe has an unfired RPR in 556. if interested you can inquire at Diamond Guns in Monroe, LA.

Again, I am not making a penny off this, its just they treat me very fairly and If I can help them and help fellow shooter find a fairly rare firearm, I am fine with this.

If this is disallowed, Moderators please delete.

 

[jmm68]

Hi,
Anyone shooting the 300 PRC? Just got mine and was able to shoot just 6 rounds thru it.
I was using handload "light" 175 gn nosler custom competition for barrel break. with just 74.6 gn of N565 i'm getting average 868 m/s with SD 4.7 and ES 13. I didn't shoot any group as I was only sighting.

 

[geek65]

This is my best 5 shot group at 600 yards on the day (wind was changeable). Rifle is a gen 1 with Ti bolt shroud and muzzle brake in 6.5Creedmoor. I was competing in the factory class.

 

[Pink_Mist]

I know of a gen 2, 6.5 creedmoor. With a PST FFP. MRAD. 30 rounds fired. The owner is being transferred to California from WI and needs money. He wants 2100. It’s a brand new setup, asking 85% of what he paid.

 

[Pink_Mist]

Has anyone experienced lose of barrel life when switching from the factory barrel to a cut rifled barrel?

I have a LRI with 1600 rounds through it. Throated for Berger 140 HB. It’s starting to lose velocity.

 

[_Windrider_]

Just had one of mine cerakoted

 

[mpepin07]

Hey guys, I could use some help with barrel removal.

I ordered a match barrel for my RPR magnum a few months back, going from the stock 338LM chambering to an Ackley Improved version. Anyway, it should be showing up here in few days so tonight I figured I would attempt removing the stock barrel. Unfortunately, this did not get off to a good start, as I was not even able to remove the handguard nut. This is the part below circled in red. If I understand correctly, this nut threads into the thermal bushing, and once removed the thermal bushing slides off, revealing the barrel nut. Is my understanding of this correct, or am I missing something? When trying to remove this handguard nut I was using channel locks with a rag wrapped around the nut (I know, I know..). Is there a trick to doing this, or do I simply need more leverage (and a proper wrench)?

 

[_Windrider_]

Hey guys, I could use some help with barrel removal.

I ordered a match barrel for my RPR magnum a few months back, going from the stock 338LM chambering to an Ackley Improved version. Anyway, it should be showing up here in few days so tonight I figured I would attempt removing the stock barrel. Unfortunately, this did not get off to a good start, as I was not even able to remove the handguard nut. This is the part below circled in red. If I understand correctly, this nut threads into the thermal bushing, and once removed the thermal bushing slides off, revealing the barrel nut. Is my understanding of this correct, or am I missing something? When trying to remove this handguard nut I was using channel locks with a rag wrapped around the nut (I know, I know..). Is there a trick to doing this, or do I simply need more leverage (and a proper wrench)?

I’m not familiar with the magnum version so take all this with a grain of salt. The barrel nuts are always waaaaaaaaaaaaay over torqued at the factory. Channel locks and a rag aren’t gonna cut it. As it happens I’m in the process of reassembling my rifle seen 2 posts up. I was looking at action wrenches and came across a product from anarchy that I use in my AR’s. It’s For all intent and purpose a reaction rod. This is what you need to support your action while removing the barrel nut and installing your new barrel.
now for your specific problem, find the right size wrench and some good leverage. Also, heat isn’t a bad idea either

Action Rod for Ruger Precision Magnum Rifle

If you want to swap out the barrel on your Rugar Magnum rifle, the search has ended. The Anarchy Outdoors branded rifle action rod, for the Ruger Precision and American Rifle models, has your back. This rod slips into the action providing overall support for those needed barrel changes, giving...

www.anarchyoutdoors.com

 

[Dead Eye Dick]

For those of us that are too cheap to upgrade to a Timney trigger... Is anyone selling a low resistance trigger adjustment spring that provides a positive reset without raising the trigger’s pull weight? The stock trigger feels great to me with the adjustment spring removed, but I have to throw my bolt open to avoid failures. I’ve read that stoning some part of the safety blade solves the issue too, but I haven’t found any details on what it is that needs to be stoned.

In the same vane, what are the top alternatives right now to the Magpul PRS stock? I’m currently using a LuthAR MBA-1, but I think it looks clunky. I’m seeing the FAB RAPS ($155) that looks sleek, the TacStar AMRS ($100) that looks like good features for the money, and the discontinued Seekins ($150) that looks lacking in features. Did I miss any?

Thanks!

Target Tool. Easy to adjust, stays where you left it and look good too (see avatar)

 

[Islander]

That’s one fine looking stock. Problem is, if the OP doesn’t want to spend a couple hundred bucks on a better trigger, he most likely won’t want to drop over four hundred on a stock. It is definitely top of the line and has had great reviews.

 

[Daherc]

My RPR is stock except for the replacement barrel. My factory 6.5 Creedmoor barrel started opening up groups at about 1600 rounds. So I got a White Oak Armament barrel to replace it. It shoots great, and was only like $400 shipped to my door.

I catch heat for running an RPR by my fellow shooters, but oh well. I still like it.

I am running a Athlon Ares BTR 4.5-27x50 MRAD scope on top and a Silencerco Omega 300.

I am thinking about changing the hand guard to a Catalyst Arms hand guard withe the Arca rail on the bottom, of getting the Area 419 Arca rail for it.

My farthest hit was at 1350 yards. I went 8 for 10 hits in a PRS match.

 

[mpepin07]

Okay I got the handguard nut and thermal bushing off and then moved on to the barrel nut. It appears that a standard armorers wrench is not able to even reach the barrel nut as it can’t slide over the first portion of the nut. Anyone else have trouble with this? I can post pictures tomorrow to clarify.

 

[_Windrider_]

Okay I got the handguard nut and thermal bushing off and then moved on to the barrel nut. It appears that a standard armorers wrench is not able to even reach the barrel nut as it can’t slide over the first portion of the nut. Anyone else have trouble with this? I can post pictures tomorrow to clarify.

I had no problem using a standard armored wrench LRI does make a tool that will help though if you can’t make it work.

 

[mpepin07]

I have seen the LRI tool and will likely purchase that if I can’t figure something else out.

Here are a few pictures to clarify. In the image of the action and barrel, the blue arrow is pointing at the external threads that the handguard nut attaches to. This is what does not allow me to get my standard armorers wrench into the barrel nut. In the other image, the red arrow is pointing towards the flat part behind the splines (not sure that’s the correct term). This is the part not able to slide over the external threads.

Any thoughts?

 

[_Windrider_]

I have seen the LRI tool and will likely purchase that if I can’t figure something else out.

Here are a few pictures to clarify. In the image of the action and barrel, the blue arrow is pointing at the external threads that the handguard nut attaches to. This is what does not allow me to get my standard armorers wrench into the barrel nut. In the other image, the red arrow is pointing towards the flat part behind the splines (not sure that’s the correct term). This is the part not able to slide over the external threads.

Any thoughts?

Is this a magnum?

 

[mpepin07]

Yes this is a magnum.

 

[_Windrider_]

Yes this is a magnum.

Ahhhhhhhhh. Yeah I doubt an AR15 wrench will work on the larger nut and barrel profile.

 

[Pink_Mist]

As far as the barrel nut goes, use some heat. A small propane bottle will be a big help. Heat a little and keep it moving. Only heat the nut. I would think less than 30 seconds.

 

[Pink_Mist]

Invest in some rubber vice jaw covers with V grove and a large adjustable wrench. With heat it will come off easier than you expect. It has 75 ft/lbs of torque.

 

[Jschmatt]

My 300 PRC, along with a few pals.

 

[mpepin07]

Invest in some rubber vice jaw covers with V grove and a large adjustable wrench. With heat it will come off easier than you expect. It has 75 ft/lbs of torque.

Thanks for the response Pink Mist.

I’ve got a decent set of vice blocks that I think will hold the barrel well enough. Right now the issue is that I can’t even get my AR wrench onto the nut.

Also, what are you saying to use the adjustable wrench for?

 

[_Windrider_]

Thanks for the response Pink Mist.

I’ve got a decent set of vice blocks that I think will hold the barrel well enough. Right now the issue is that I can’t even get my AR wrench onto the nut.

Also, what are you saying to use the adjustable wrench for?

Use this instead of vice blocks

Action Rod for Ruger Precision Magnum Rifle

If you want to swap out the barrel on your Rugar Magnum rifle, the search has ended. The Anarchy Outdoors branded rifle action rod, for the Ruger Precision and American Rifle models, has your back. This rod slips into the action providing overall support for those needed barrel changes, giving...

www.anarchyoutdoors.com

 

[mpepin07]

I have seen the action rods as well and purchase if vise blocks are not sufficient.

Can anyone confirm for me that a standard AR armorers/barrel nut wrench will not fit onto the RPR magnum barrel nut? I would like to be sure I'm not missing something before spending money on the LRI wrench.

 

[_Windrider_]

I have seen the action rods as well and purchase if vise blocks are not sufficient.

Can anyone confirm for me that a standard AR armorers/barrel nut wrench will not fit onto the RPR magnum barrel nut? I would like to be sure I'm not missing something before spending money on the LRI wrench.

The shank on the magnum is 1/4” larger than the short action. An ar15 armor tool isn’t going to work.

 

[mpepin07]

The shank on the magnum is 1/4” larger than the short action. An ar15 armor tool isn’t going to work.

Ahh, did not realize that. Thank you for the help.

 

[Brule]

I just ordered the catalyst arms fast track to finish out my RPR. I know I'm going to have to remove the outer nut to install the new handguard.

My question is, what is the best way to secure the rifle or barrel to wrench on it?

Thanks

I didn’t need a vice to do it.

 

[JäGER821]

Hello, how much mrad do you Need to Zero your Scope to the Rifle? I tried 2 different scopes and 3 different mounts but ist is nearly the Same.
I Need 7mrad on the side turret and 4 mrad on the elevation turret if i put the scopes on Center Before i Zero the Rifle. I think my Barrel is bended down and left. The ruger has a 20moa rail on it (5.8 mrad). My Problem is if i want to shoot it 500m and More i have not enough elevation on my Scope. I checkend the Scope rail and Stystem surface for dents and burrs but all seams Fine.

 

[straightshooter1]

Hello, how much mrad do you Need to Zero your Scope to the Rifle? I tried 2 different scopes and 3 different mounts but ist is nearly the Same.
I Need 7mrad on the side turret and 4 mrad on the elevation turret if i put the scopes on Center Before i Zero the Rifle. I think my Barrel is bended down and left. The ruger has a 20moa rail on it (5.8 mrad). My Problem is if i want to shoot it 500m and More i have not enough elevation on my Scope. I checkend the Scope rail and Stystem surface for dents and burrs but all seams Fine.

I use Burris XTR Signature Rings and the inserts that come with it allow one to add additional 20 MOA on my RPR.

 

[ken4570tc in WY]

I use Burris XTR Signature Rings and the inserts that come with it allow one to add additional 20 MOA on my RPR.

Those Burris XTR Signature Rings are well engineered and my absolute go-to. There's enough give/compression of the inserts to tightly grip any scope tube regardless of variance in OD. The early inserts for the non-XTR were hard plastic and not as forgiving as this newer material. I won't use any other rings!

 

[straightshooter1]

Those Burris XTR Signature Rings are well engineered and my absolute go-to. There's enough give/compression of the inserts to tightly grip any scope tube regardless of variance in OD. The early inserts for the non-XTR were hard plastic and not as forgiving as this newer material. I won't use any other rings!

My RPR is a .308 and the Burris XTR Signature Rings are holding firm with no issues after over 4,000 rounds fired.

 

[mpepin07]

Those Burris XTR Signature Rings are well engineered and my absolute go-to. There's enough give/compression of the inserts to tightly grip any scope tube regardless of variance in OD. The early inserts for the non-XTR were hard plastic and not as forgiving as this newer material. I won't use any other rings!

These rings are good to go.

I have used them on both a 308Win and 338LM for several months and experienced zero problems. They are my go-to rings moving forward.

 

[mpepin07]

I apoligize in advance for the long post, but I need help and wanted to give as much detail as possible.

Okay so both my barrel and my LRI magnum action wrench showed up earlier this week. I WAS able to remove the stock barrel. It took about 3 hours, a vise, 36" breaker bar, some heat and an impact wrench, but I got it off the rifle. My problem now is that I am not able to thread the barrel nut onto the new barrel OR thread the new barrel into the receiver. When trying to thread the barrel nut onto the new barrel, it seemed to turn freely for about 1 revolution, and then I felt friction and could not turn anymore... I put the LRI tool onto the nut and tried to continue turning by hand.. was able to go about another half turn.. then friction again. I put my 36 INCH BREAKER BAR onto the LRI tool and made it several more revolutions, but then.. so much friction that the barrel began to spin in my vise. At this point I stopped (probably should have sooner), and removed the barrel nut from the new barrel. This required the use of the breaker bar to do.

Then I got the idea to try threading the new barrel into the receiver without the barrel nut, just to see if it would work. Same thing happened again.. made it about half a turn, then friction. I wrapped a rag around the receiver and put my whole body into turning it onto the barrel.. no go. I then removed the new barrel and stopped for the night.


Does anyone know what would cause this? My only two thoughts are that the new barrel is either threaded incorrectly (which I find hard to believe), or that the threads on the barrel nut and receiver yielded and were permanently "bent" from the amount of torque used to put the factory barrel on (also find hard to believe as they are different materials which would leave one set of threads to yield significantly before the other ). Any help would be appreciated with this problem. I am running out of patience trying to rebarrel this rifle.

 

[straightshooter1]

I apoligize in advance for the long post, but I need help and wanted to give as much detail as possible.

Okay so both my barrel and my LRI magnum action wrench showed up earlier this week. I WAS able to remove the stock barrel. It took about 3 hours, a vise, 36" breaker bar, some heat and an impact wrench, but I got it off the rifle. My problem now is that I am not able to thread the barrel nut onto the new barrel OR thread the new barrel into the receiver. When trying to thread the barrel nut onto the new barrel, it seemed to turn freely for about 1 revolution, and then I felt friction and could not turn anymore... I put the LRI tool onto the nut and tried to continue turning by hand.. was able to go about another half turn.. then friction again. I put my 36 INCH BREAKER BAR onto the LRI tool and made it several more revolutions, but then.. so much friction that the barrel began to spin in my vise. At this point I stopped (probably should have sooner), and removed the barrel nut from the new barrel. This required the use of the breaker bar to do.

Then I got the idea to try threading the new barrel into the receiver without the barrel nut, just to see if it would work. Same thing happened again.. made it about half a turn, then friction. I wrapped a rag around the receiver and put my whole body into turning it onto the barrel.. no go. I then removed the new barrel and stopped for the night.


Does anyone know what would cause this? My only two thoughts are that the new barrel is either threaded incorrectly (which I find hard to believe), or that the threads yielded and were permanently "bent" from the amount of torque used to put the factory barrel on. Any help would be appreciated with this problem. I am running out of patience trying to rebarrel this rifle.

Did you inspect the threads in the receiver and the threads on the barrel you removed? If so, what did you see? How did you clean the threads?

Pictures would help.

 

[mpepin07]

Here’s a few of the pictures I took. I can take more tomorrow, just let me know specifically what you would like to see.

Also, I did visually inspect the threads on the receiver, the barrel nut and both of the barrels. I’ve seen my fair share of messed up threads, but nothing about these ones jumped out at me.

 

[straightshooter1]

Here’s a few of the pictures I took. I can take more tomorrow, just let me know specifically what you would like to see.

Also, I did visually inspecte the threads on the receiver, the barrel nut and both of the barrels. I’ve seen mare fair share of messed up threads, but nothing about these ones jumped out at me.

What did you use to clean the threads? I assume you removed ALL the gunk from the receiver's threads?

What anti-seize grease did you put on the threads of the new barrel?

Pictures of the threads of the receiver would be good, if possible. (Easy to do if you have a borescope. )

PS: I didn't have any such issues when I switched barrels on my RPR, though getting the initial bread on the barrel nut was a little tough. But wen smoothly from there for me. I took me about 30 mins to do the whole job. So, I feel for yah having this big of an issue.

 

[mpepin07]

What did you use to clean the threads? I assume you removed ALL the gunk from the receiver's threads?

What anti-seize grease did you put on the threads of the new barrel?

Pictures of the threads of the receiver would be good, if possible. (Easy to do if you have a borescope. )

PS: I didn't have any such issues when I switched barrels on my RPR, though getting the initial bread on the barrel nut was a little tough. But wen smoothly from there for me. I took me about 30 mins to do the whole job. So, I feel for yah having this big of an issue.

I used a brass brush with some WD40 to scrub the threads. Then some hard parts cleaner and a rag to dissolve and dry off. Next a small amount of Permatex evenly on the threads of the new barrel before attempting to install.

I’ll take some more pictures tomorrow. Thanks for the reply.


EDIT: I just remembered that I am still able to re-install the barrel nut onto the OLD barrel. Thought this might be relevant.

 

[straightshooter1]

I used a brash brush with some WD40 to scrub the threads. Then some hard parts cleaner and a rag to dissolve and dry off. Next a small amount of Permatex evenly on the threads of the new barrel before attempting to install.

I’ll take some more pictures tomorrow. Thanks for the reply.


EDIT: I just remembered that I am still able to re-install the barrel nut onto the OLD barrel. Thought this might be relevant.

Frankly, it sounds like the threads on the new barrel are off speck and the fact that the barrel nut can be mounted on the old barrel strongly suggests that.

 

[ilaybrk]

I also agree barrel threads must be tweaked I would check the stock barrel will thread back in receiver if so then it must be defective LRI barrel threads

 

[mpepin07]

Stock barrel does indeed thread back in. I took a quick measurement this morning and it appears that the major thread diameter on the new barrel is .006” larger than the factory barrel. Going to call McGowan later and see what’s going on.

 

[whatsupdoc]

Need a favor with buttstock hinge on RPR.
When you fold the buttstock on your RPR does the pin spin on the front half of the hinge or not.
Easy way is to mark hinge pin with shapie or pencil fold stock while looking from top and see if hinge pin rotates.

Thanks

 

[locutus]

Gentlemen,
Assuming quality optics and 175 grain match ammo, what level of accuracy would you expect from stock, out of the box RPR in 7.62X51 at 600 yards.

I ask about 600, because I do not have access to a longer range.

Thank you in advance for any info.

 

[straightshooter1]

Gentlemen,
Assuming quality optics and 175 grain match ammo, what level of accuracy would you expect from stock, out of the box RPR in 7.62X51 at 600 yards.

I ask about 600, because I do not have access to a longer range.

Thank you in advance for any info.

.50 - .75 MOA depending on hand loads vs. factory loads.

Just gotta keep in mind that when dealing with factory mass produced barrels, you might win the lottery and have a really good one or you might get one that's crap. If it's "crap", you're not likely to see less than 1 MOA.

 

[mensajd]

Off topic but have a question on the RPR, both short and long action, how long is the picatinny rail that is on the bottom of the buttstock?
TIA

About 2-3/16" for a gen2 6mm cm.