Ruger Precision Rifle Discussion

[straightshooter1]

Ok, here we go:
View attachment 7518455 View attachment 7518456

View attachment 7518458 View attachment 7518459


You can see it never reaches or touches the safety stop on either side. There's a ridge along the right, inside top edge of the grip, and it's stopping on the frame of the rifle. I considered trying to flex the grip, but the material isn't very flexy.

I may have to grind that ridge down with something to give some relief to slide up into place.

When I bought mine I bought two of them (one for my RPR and the other for my RPRF) and had no such problem with either of them. So . . . something changed in their manufacturing to where the dimensions are no longer that same as when I got mine. Bummer!

 

[Alanh]

Same. Just spend a little time with a Dremmel and you will have a wonderful set up.

 

[6.5SH]

Hmmm??? Apparently, MPA EVG grips have some variations in their designs. I just saw this and in this pick the grip is not exactly the same (maybe this was a custom mod on the grip???):

View attachment 7518375 View attachment 7518376

Where did the pics come from? Curious if is a new model or someone did nice job customizing. This one only has grip tape in one spot, the rest is either molded or hand stippled and then you have the color, MPA only lists black.

 

[straightshooter1]

Where did the pics come from? Curious if is a new model or someone did nice job customizing. This one only has grip tape in one spot, the rest is either molded or hand stippled and then you have the color, MPA only lists black.

The pics came from here:

Ruger Precision Rifle - Makes Thousand Yard Shots Easy and Gobbles Up Any Magazine

Want to get into long-range shooting? Shoot to 1,000 yards or even a mile? You may want to give the Ruger Precision Rifle some consideration.

gunmagwarehouse.com

 

[6.5SH]

The pics came from here:

Ruger Precision Rifle - Makes Thousand Yard Shots Easy and Gobbles Up Any Magazine

Want to get into long-range shooting? Shoot to 1,000 yards or even a mile? You may want to give the Ruger Precision Rifle some consideration.

gunmagwarehouse.com

Thanks. From some of the other pics can see black showing through in a few places so was painted or coated. My guess is he just did a very nice job customizing it and omitted that from the article.

 

[Hardpan]

Same. Just spend a little time with a Dremmel and you will have a wonderful set up.

@Belt fed looks like you just need to shave a little material away as mentioned here and you should be good

 

[Cardboard Assassin]

I just got a 6mm Creedmoor last November 2020, Model 18032 Gen3, and now all I see on the Ruger is a Model 18085 for $2399 with quite a few upgrades/differences and I got my 6mm for $1206 + tax, shipping and receiving it at a local FFL. Glad I got it when I did, even a better
deal than I thought for my first precision rifle! I'm 69yrs old just starting this long range adventure and love it!

You got a smoking deal.

I just looked at the 18085 and it does have improvements (Triggertech trigger, dovetailed rail etc etc) but the 18032 for half the cash is the better deal, no question.

I got a 6.5 RPR for my first precision gun and its been awesome, I've been very happy with the performance for the cash.

 

[Fupananvil]

No doubt about the recoil. It's Harrell's all one piece tuner-break and there was a noticeable increase in recoil from the factory break. I have a new tuner on the way that'll allow various brakes to be mounted along with it without any need for any machining modifications. So, I'll be mounting the factory break back on, though I do have a break that works well and helps stay on target well though a bit ugly (the JP Recoil Eliminator - see pic below). Typically though, recoil for me is not a big deal, especially since I usually shoot my RPR free recoil.

View attachment 7518234

Over 4500 rounds now through this Krieger barrel and still getting a lot of bugholes. I've already got a new Krieger bull barrel sitting in the wait for when I start losing accuracy.

 

[Fupananvil]

Does anybody have any experience with their 6.5 CM Gen II RPR coming out of the factory with significant offset in the barrel to the action? I've seen some online discussions about guys sending theirs back to Ruger because they could not zero their scope, usually windage however to the left. A couple years ago I ran into having to put a 30moa rail on it to reach 1260 yards with a 65moa NF elevation scope. Basically, the barrel was pointing low relative to the action and eating up some of the available adjustment. I lived with that for 2 years and recently decided to replace the barrel since its accuracy and speed was dropping and with a borescope it looked heavily alligatored out to about 10". I don't chase lands I just load to mag length. I got a low round count original rpr takeoff in 6.5CM as a replacement. While it shoots 0.3" or so, similar to my original barrel, it too is pointing low. My first attempt it was about 21 moa low. I removed it and tried to tighten the jam nut in a direction that my wrench forces might tend to lift the slop in the barrel/action threads and got it so it is 14 moa low now. I even tried temporarily installing the barrel 180 degrees from proper headspace (not shooting it just sighting through the scope and bore) and don't see it shift the opposite way so I'm thinking the action face is not perpendicular to the barrel threads. I have trued AR15 upper barrel shoulder faces using a lapping tool but I don't see a good way of doing that to the RPR face with the lugs in the way. It'd have to be a 2 piece custom tool. I figure if all was straight, with a 30 moa rail I should be near the bottom of a 65moa NF scope adjustment when it is mounted and zeroed at 100 yd. But I am in the 14 - 21 moa range when zeroed, which eats up some of my available elevation range of adjustment. It seems like there is so much slop in the action/barrel threads, and jam nut/barrel threads that the barrel seeks different positions each time it is tightened in place. I am certainly not a gunsmith. Anybody got suggestions?

 

[Belt fed]

Does anybody have any experience with their 6.5 CM Gen II RPR coming out of the factory with significant offset in the barrel to the action? I've seen some online discussions about guys sending theirs back to Ruger because they could not zero their scope, usually windage however to the left. A couple years ago I ran into having to put a 30moa rail on it to reach 1260 yards with a 65moa NF elevation scope. Basically, the barrel was pointing low relative to the action and eating up some of the available adjustment. I lived with that for 2 years and recently decided to replace the barrel since its accuracy and speed was dropping and with a borescope it looked heavily alligatored out to about 10". I don't chase lands I just load to mag length. I got a low round count original rpr takeoff in 6.5CM as a replacement. While it shoots 0.3" or so, similar to my original barrel, it too is pointing low. My first attempt it was about 21 moa low. I removed it and tried to tighten the jam nut in a direction that my wrench forces might tend to lift the slop in the barrel/action threads and got it so it is 14 moa low now. I even tried temporarily installing the barrel 180 degrees from proper headspace (not shooting it just sighting through the scope and bore) and don't see it shift the opposite way so I'm thinking the action face is not perpendicular to the barrel threads. I have trued AR15 upper barrel shoulder faces using a lapping tool but I don't see a good way of doing that to the RPR face with the lugs in the way. It'd have to be a 2 piece custom tool. I figure if all was straight, with a 30 moa rail I should be near the bottom of a 65moa NF scope adjustment when it is mounted and zeroed at 100 yd. But I am in the 14 - 21 moa range when zeroed, which eats up some of my available elevation range of adjustment. It seems like there is so much slop in the action/barrel threads, and jam nut/barrel threads that the barrel seeks different positions each time it is tightened in place. I am certainly not a gunsmith. Anybody got suggestions?

I'm no gunsmith, so this is just me thinking it thru.
As I understand it, the RPR is a variable headspace design. The headspace is set with go/no go gauges by threading the barrel into the receiver. That headspace is then set by tightening the barrel nut, which locks the barrel to the receiver thru the nut.
So, given this system, I don't see how you could alter the receiver to barrel alignment by any sort of lapping like on an AR. I guess it's possible the nut is shifting the alignment, but it sounds like the receiver threads are cut wrong? Maybe a different nut?

I know this doesn't give you a solution. Maybe call Ruger & see if they're willing to help?

 

[Fupananvil]

What you say is mostly true, except the barrel jam nut does not lock the barrel shoulder to the threads of the reciever through the nut. Instead, the barrel jam nut bears against the flat surface of the reciever face and jams the barrel from turning. Nothing whatsoever touches the shoulder of the RPR barrel when it is installed. You could grind it off with no effect good or bad. See my attached drawing. The barrel shoulder has daylight on all 3 sides of it when assembled. It comes out of the gun with no marks on the shoulder. If the flat face of the reciever is out of square with the axis of the reciever threads, grinding the face would improve barrel installation alignment. There is a ton of slop in the threads. There is less than one diameter of thread engagement between the barrel and action. That lets the barrel wiggle quite a bit in the reciever till the jam nut is tightened after proper headspace is selected. Thanks for the reply and thinking about this issue.

 

[Belt fed]

Wow, nice drawing! Got it.

 

[dirtydb]

Accessories - Timney ruger precision triggers all sold

I have 2 timney ruger precision 2 stage 8oz/1lb triggers for sale. $175 a piece shipped usps money order

www.snipershide.com

 

[Belt fed]

I got the MPA grip installed, it didn't need as much material removal as I thought it was going to be. Dremel to the rescue.
Now to go shoot it and get used to the grip.

On another note, has anyone installed an ARCA rail on the Gen2 RPR (keymod)? If so, any particular brands favored, or fit finish issues? I'm looking at the Area419 for Keymod, and one on Anarchy Outdoors from Sawtooth.

 

[EzGoingKev]

I have a Sawtooth installed on my Seekins Precision handguard. It is really nice. Fits like it came that way from Seekins.

 

[Islander]

I have a Sawthooth on my Gen 2 handguard, works great. I wanted a full length rail so I could run my wedge bag as close to the mag well as possible. The only issue is if you want to take your handguard off you need to take the rail off first as it covers the bottom screws.

 

[drcook]

I extended the cheek piece with some Kydex. The 2nd one worked out better, eventually I will make a good mold and recast the first but it is very usable as is. Extending the length 1 1/4" ish sure changed the feel. We got a little curl on the first one, there was a learning curve for working with the Kydex and heating it with a heat gun.

I wanted to try this before investing in another or 2 Magpul PRS Gen3 stocks. It was a success.

The extension is held on with 2-sided tape.

This worked out extremely well. I went and shot the rifle the other day. The increased length is much better.

I would recommend thinking about doing this.

 

[madmikes262]

I have a Gen 1 RPR in 6.5CM i absolutely love it.Has about 400 through it.I put the LRI Bolt shroud on ,the Magpul PRS stock,and an oversize bolt handle.Thinking about a Muzzle brake but really the 6.5CM doesnt recoil much.Would be interested in the Trigger Tech however I havent heard much about it till now.

 

[300wmSlick]

Has anyone ever gotten past being on hold with Ruger's customer service?? 45mins at 3pm EDT and never got through. On a Monday even.

 

[Cotay]

Sounds like the new 6 creed prs production model you can’t get yet. I like the handguard and am interested in the trigger tech

The handguard looks like the Catalyst Arms ARCA rail that can be had for about $170. I ordered one for my 6mm ARC AR and I'm considering one for my RPR as well (it currently has the Midwest Industries 18" M-Lok).

 

[Hardpan]

The handguard looks like the Catalyst Arms ARCA rail that can be had for about $170. I ordered one for my 6mm ARC AR and I'm considering one for my RPR as well (it currently has the Midwest Industries 18" M-Lok).

I just purchased a CA handguard for my RPR and I must say the quality is very nice like everything else they make. Now I have everything from CA that you can buy for an RPR and worth every penny

 

[Ordnance Locker]

A photo I snagged recently out at the Mammoth Sniper Challenge...

 

[ChipSawdust]

This stuff work on painted surfaces or just bare metal?

This appears to have already been answered but it's a Boeing product originally and they spray it all over the insides of their aircraft. That is primed and/or painted aluminum. I'm also a woodworker and can attest to its function on table saws, bandsaws, planers and so on.

 

[ChipSawdust]

Hey gang, new to the forum and found this thread. I didn't read ALL the pages but enough to know I better get in on this

Bought an RPR in October in 6.5CM. Felt I was lucky to find it at a LGS. Put a cheap Vortex 6x24 Diamondback on it (actually love that scope) with tall rings. Atlas bipod, Accushot monopod and have been developing loads for it (limited by primers and time). Been shooting all my life but never this good, so I'm perfectly happy.

Love the stock (might be a contentious statement!), the trigger is great (dialed it as far down as I could) and love the results. Shooting less than MOA on almost all my loads. It like the Nosler RDF 140 and ELD-M 147s pretty well, as well as the Berger VLD Targets 130s (H4130). Thinking if I can find more primers I'll compete locally this summer.

Bolt is a bit stiff, don't care for not being able to single feed with the stock mags, but other than that no complaints. Used to shooting 300WM so the recoil from this is NOTHING.

Thanks for this thread and all the people who have posted here. Fantastic, rich source of information.

I have plans for a Golden Eagle later this year. Only have a couple hundred rounds through it so far but it's a shooter!

 

[Chief_Rick]

I'm looking to order a new 6.5CM barrel - where are you getting barrels from?

 

[Hardpan]

I'm looking to order a new 6.5CM barrel - where are you getting barrels from?

PVA. @bohem makes a killer barrel

 

[ChipSawdust]

I'm looking to order a new 6.5CM barrel - where are you getting barrels from?

I’m lining up a LH gain twist barrel from Kreiger. M24/40 old marine sniper profile. I prefer their cut method vs. button rifling.

 

[straightshooter1]

I'm looking to order a new 6.5CM barrel - where are you getting barrels from?

You won't go wrong here (where I get mine):

https://kriegerbarrels.com/products#rpr

 

[Carlos Danger]

Hey gang, new to the forum and found this thread. I didn't read ALL the pages but enough to know I better get in on this

Bought an RPR in October in 6.5CM. Felt I was lucky to find it at a LGS. Put a cheap Vortex 6x24 Diamondback on it (actually love that scope) with tall rings. Atlas bipod, Accushot monopod and have been developing loads for it (limited by primers and time). Been shooting all my life but never this good, so I'm perfectly happy.

Love the stock (might be a contentious statement!), the trigger is great (dialed it as far down as I could) and love the results. Shooting less than MOA on almost all my loads. It like the Nosler RDF 140 and ELD-M 147s pretty well, as well as the Berger VLD Targets 130s (H4130). Thinking if I can find more primers I'll compete locally this summer.

Bolt is a bit stiff, don't care for not being able to single feed with the stock mags, but other than that no complaints. Used to shooting 300WM so the recoil from this is NOTHING.

Thanks for this thread and all the people who have posted here. Fantastic, rich source of information.

I have plans for a Golden Eagle later this year. Only have a couple hundred rounds through it so far but it's a shooter!

Delete the trigger spring and you'll like it even more. You can make a single round sled for the mag with a chunk of PVC pipe and 10 minutes.

 

[coyotewillie]

My trigger adjusted down to 1 1/2#, so don't see any reason to pull the trigger spring to go lower. I can just put a round in on top of the mag and single feed. I know some people have trouble with that but mine works great that way. I actually don't think I've ever had a round in the mag!

 

[ChipSawdust]

Delete the trigger spring and you'll like it even more. You can make a single round sled for the mag with a chunk of PVC pipe and 10 minutes.

Yeah I saw that PVC trick, need to head over to the local hardware store and pick up some conduit to play with. Not sure I’m to the point of removing a spring from the trigger but it’s good to know

 

[ChipSawdust]

My trigger adjusted down to 1 1/2#, so don't see any reason to pull the trigger spring to go lower. I can just put a round in on top of the mag and single feed. I know some people have trouble with that but mine works great that way. I actually don't think I've ever had a round in the mag!

Down to 1 1/2# with the stock trigger? I got mine down to just over 2 but it doesn’t seem like any more turning of the screw is doing anything. I’ve tried the one in the mag trick and that does work, but I think I’ll try the PVC trick so I don’t have to consider another round in there while I’m doing load development. Too many other things to write down and think about - knowing me I’d shoot that, look at the chrony and scratch my head for a week wondering why my SD/ES went out the window

 

[coyotewillie]

What I mean is that I just set a cartridge on top of the mag follower. Some people haven't been able to get their bolt to ride over the mag follower and have to insert one into the mag...follower acts as a bolt stop. I just lay one on top and single feed, no need for the PVC trick. I was going to do that but found that my bolt would ride over with no problem, yours might too.

 

[ChipSawdust]

What I mean is that I just set a cartridge on top of the mag follower. Some people haven't been able to get their bolt to ride over the mag follower and have to insert one into the mag...follower acts as a bolt stop. I just lay one on top and single feed, no need for the PVC trick. I was going to do that but found that my bolt would ride over with no problem, yours might too.

I have indeed tried that. It sticks hard on the stock mags. Dang it!

 

[Aguillaguy]

Long time lurker. How the hell are you guys finding Ammo to hit the range? I haven’t found squat and I’m getting pretty sick of looking at what my wife calls a novelty. I have the 6.5prc. I can’t even get reloads.

 

[ChipSawdust]

Long time lurker. How the hell are you guys finding Ammo to hit the range? I haven’t found squat and I’m getting pretty sick of looking at what my wife calls a novelty. I have the 6.5prc. I can’t even get reloads.

Oh I know the pain. I wanted a PRC before I bought my Creedmoor. There wasn't ANY ammo out there except expensive handholds from some guy back east I found on the internet (about $3/round before shipping). Brass was like hen's teeth too, so I couldn't even find that to make my loads for the PRC.

If you reload, place backorders on any site you can find that lists the brass you need and you can hope to get started that way. That's what I'm doing now for the higher quality brass out there I'm looking at (Lapua and Peterson).

If it's in the budget, maybe even swap barrels for now to get a caliber for which you can actually find ammo.

I like the PRC performance but the ammo was my deciding factor for going with the CM. Before I even found my rifle I found a 200 round box of Hornady American Gunner 6.5CM which in the end cost about $1/round but I have a ton of brass and bullets aren't hard to find. It's primers that are the real limiter in my local market and on the internet.

I started load development with H4350 but it's hard to find too. I found 8lbs of H100V and bought that. It's not an "extreme" powder and isn't everyone's favorite (which is probably why I was able to find it), but there are recipes for my caliber, it'll go bang and 8 pounds will last me quite a while.

Depending on where you live, I recommend driving out of town to a smaller town with a sporting goods store and see if they have primers and powder. They won't have the PRC ammo but you're going to need those components if you plan to reload. Reloading is fun and relaxing for me, and load development is interesting as well. I personally love these little "science projects" trying different bullets, powder loads and bullet jumps to see how my groups look.

Once your wife sees the groups you shoot with your "novelty" even if she's not a shooter she'll come to appreciate your hobby

 

[HKshooter]

Ammo and reloading components are rare to find in stock now-a-days. Triple that for some obscure cartridge only a handful of people shoot.
The most obscure round I have a rifle chambered for is 6mmCM. I have 200 factory rounds for it that it'll shoot into a dime at 200 yards and I'm not looking for more because I rarely use the gun, it's purpose isn't burning hundreds of dollars worth of ammo trying to make home made ammo that'll shoot just as good or heaven forbid, better. When I run out of the 200 rounds I have I'll sell the gun or rebarrel it into something I can find ammo for for less money with double the barrel life. Probably 308, I have thousands of rounds of that. And when SHTF like today when ammo is impossible to find I'll still be more likely to find 308 in many more places than 6mm.

 

[Aguillaguy]

Oh I know the pain. I wanted a PRC before I bought my Creedmoor. There wasn't ANY ammo out there except expensive handholds from some guy back east I found on the internet (about $3/round before shipping). Brass was like hen's teeth too, so I couldn't even find that to make my loads for the PRC.

If you reload, place backorders on any site you can find that lists the brass you need and you can hope to get started that way. That's what I'm doing now for the higher quality brass out there I'm looking at (Lapua and Peterson).

If it's in the budget, maybe even swap barrels for now to get a caliber for which you can actually find ammo.

I like the PRC performance but the ammo was my deciding factor for going with the CM. Before I even found my rifle I found a 200 round box of Hornady American Gunner 6.5CM which in the end cost about $1/round but I have a ton of brass and bullets aren't hard to find. It's primers that are the real limiter in my local market and on the internet.

I started load development with H4350 but it's hard to find too. I found 8lbs of H100V and bought that. It's not an "extreme" powder and isn't everyone's favorite (which is probably why I was able to find it), but there are recipes for my caliber, it'll go bang and 8 pounds will last me quite a while.

Depending on where you live, I recommend driving out of town to a smaller town with a sporting goods store and see if they have primers and powder. They won't have the PRC ammo but you're going to need those components if you plan to reload. Reloading is fun and relaxing for me, and load development is interesting as well. I personally love these little "science projects" trying different bullets, powder loads and bullet jumps to see how my groups look.

Once your wife sees the groups you shoot with your "novelty" even if she's not a shooter she'll come to appreciate your hobby

Hahaha. Yeah, my wife doesn’t seem to appreciate the groupings so much as she likes me hitting the range and getting stress relief. We’ve had no luck here for Ammo. I’ve driven to stores an hour and a half away and it’s always the same story. I considered trading the rifle for another just so I could have a long ranger I’d be able to shoot. I haven’t seen any primers either unfortunately so that was a road block too. I appreciate the advice.

 

[Chief_Rick]

What handguard is compatible with the RPR? It seems the Seekins SP3R is discontinued - or at least not available anywhere.
I'd like to replace a Gen 1 handguard, preferably with a slim(mer) replacement that I can put an ARCA rail on the bottom.

 

[DocRDS]

Was eyeing one of the bigger RPRs the other day in 300PRC. But that beast of a muzzle break is an eyesore--how hard is it to get them off and changed? Is it just loctited or rockset on? The "Poors" rifle thread had me thinking this might be a decent project gun to upgrade as I go and I really like my Ruger Precision 22 (very similar).

 

[DocRDS]

Long time lurker. How the hell are you guys finding Ammo to hit the range? I haven’t found squat and I’m getting pretty sick of looking at what my wife calls a novelty. I have the 6.5prc. I can’t even get reloads.

oops double post--having a reloading stock or a stash on had is pretty much the only way. It is REALLY tough right now--even 30-06 is gone and there is ALWAYS 30-06. A lot of us are in a pinch, so you are not alone. I had just started shooting my Magnums more, so I got caught flat footed w/o powder/ammo.

It was bad before election day and then everything went plaid.

 

[TangoDown7717]

Was eyeing one of the bigger RPRs the other day in 300PRC. But that beast of a muzzle break is an eyesore--how hard is it to get them off and changed? Is it just loctited or rockset on? The "Poors" rifle thread had me thinking this might be a decent project gun to upgrade as I go and I really like my Ruger Precision 22 (very similar).

It was a PITA to take the muzzle break off. Easiest way is get the barrel in a vise or an action wrench in the action and torque it off. I used a 2’ breaker bar with my wrench to get the leverage.

 

[EzGoingKev]

What handguard is compatible with the RPR? It seems the Seekins SP3R is discontinued - or at least not available anywhere.
I'd like to replace a Gen 1 handguard, preferably with a slim(mer) replacement that I can put an ARCA rail on the bottom.

I have the Seekins SP3R with a Sawtooth Arca rail on it. The fit and finish on them both is awesome. The Sawtooth rail fits like it came factory on the Seekins rail.

 

[TangoDown7717]

What handguard is compatible with the RPR? It seems the Seekins SP3R is discontinued - or at least not available anywhere.
I'd like to replace a Gen 1 handguard, preferably with a slim(mer) replacement that I can put an ARCA rail on the bottom.

I have midwest industries on mine with an area 419 arca. Its not slimmer but I run a straight 1" barrel. It was the only one with a barrel nut that would fit over the barrel.

 

[ilaybrk]

I have a papercity on mine

 

[Chief_Rick]

I have midwest industries on mine with an area 419 arca. Its not slimmer but I run a straight 1" barrel. It was the only one with a barrel nut that would fit over the barrel.

Could you tell me which model?

It is designed for the RPR specifically?

My search is not finding anything that specifies it will work on the RPR, and I'm not sure if it has to.

Thanks

 

[Chief_Rick]

I have midwest industries on mine with an area 419 arca. Its not slimmer but I run a straight 1" barrel. It was the only one with a barrel nut that would fit over the barrel.

Same as as abocv:

Could you tell me which model?

It is designed for the RPR specifically?

My search is not finding anything that specifies it will work on the RPR, and I'm not sure if it has to.

Thanks.

 

[ChipSawdust]

What handguard is compatible with the RPR? It seems the Seekins SP3R is discontinued - or at least not available anywhere.
I'd like to replace a Gen 1 handguard, preferably with a slim(mer) replacement that I can put an ARCA rail on the bottom.

IIRC I think Anarchy Outdoors has some. midwest-ruger-prcsn-rfl-15-hndgrd as an example.
Someone mentioned a custom made hand guard too; I think it may have been the same company but don't quote me

 

[ChipSawdust]

Was eyeing one of the bigger RPRs the other day in 300PRC. But that beast of a muzzle break is an eyesore--how hard is it to get them off and changed? Is it just loctited or rockset on? The "Poors" rifle thread had me thinking this might be a decent project gun to upgrade as I go and I really like my Ruger Precision 22 (very similar).

Honestly I haven't tried to take mine off yet but if I end up going into competition this year I'll have to. It doesn't look hard, there's a nut and the brake. There's a tiny gap between the nut and the end of my barrel which is how (I presume) they set the brake in the right position then cinched up the nut. First I'm going to try to hold the brake and turn the nut towards the barrel to separate them, then it should all spin off. That's my theory! If the used Loctite it's going to be a bit more difficult...

Here's a video - it looks super simple: watch Heck he just had his rifle sitting on the bipod.

Then pop on a different brake that works best for you (looks and function). You may still want to get a barrel vice to do the work but for my first attempt I'm just going to use my rifle rest, a wrench and something that'll fit inside the brake. Others with far more experience may chime in.

 

[ChipSawdust]

Hard to believe but I just got notification I'm getting my order of 100 Lapua 6.5CM LRP brass shipped. And I thought it was unobtanium! Just in time for my OCW tests with Mr. Newberry.