Ruger Precision Rifle Discussion

I have tried the V3 with the 338 lapua muzzle brake.
Then I preferred using to extend the hand-guard with a metal plate rail, where on the end to fix the v3 keeping it more distant from the muzzle blast and vibration.
 

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Hey can't decide between ruger precision 6.5 and 6.5 prc?
Can u fire a 6.5 creedmoor in a gun chambered in 6.5 prc?
6.5 PRC is a magnum cartridge where the bolt, case head, case and chamber are all larger than the Creedmoor. So, they're just nothing interchangeable between the two . . . except for the 264 bullet.

I've got the 6.5 PRC and I do like it. But components are really hard to find (like loaded cartridges, brass, reloading equipment, etc.). There's a lot more available for the Creedmoor as it's a more established cartridge than the 6.5 PRC and manufactures tend to support that which has volume vs. something relatively new. Note too that in times like these where supplies are short, something like a 6.5 CM might be a better choice as it uses quite a bit less powder. . . but can get you out to a 1000 yds nicely for target shooting.

If you're plans are towards hunting larger game, the PRC and handle the heavier bullets better and out to a longer range. But the PRP is a pretty heavy gun to be hunting with. . .???

. . . . things to consider, huh?
 
Curious if there will be a single stage diamond. I see a few places have the 2 stage listed as coming soon. I'm thinking of getting rid of some of my RPR's because I can't seem to find a single stage trigger that I like.
 
Went big, eh? Hell of a replacement. A buddy of mine reloads .338L and I have to say, I wouldn't touch it after seeing the fight he's been through trying to find components plus seeing what he pays for them. There's no place to shoot such a round around here to take advantage of it's long ranger performance anyhow. You folks that live out west have it good when it comes to rifle range.
Out west? There are mile ranges in Ohio.
 
Joining the RPR group. Got a 308. Not sure what gen. Not a huge fan of the 308 but I can find factory match ammo easy and cant find anything in 6.5. I have reloading capability but not on the road so here I am with a 308. First 40 rounds grouped like garbage, but I didn't have a good bag setup and I couldn't load the bipod very well. Next time out I had a better bag setup and I could put a little more load on the bipod and it grouped better. Ammo I have is FED175SMK's, FED168SMK's, hornady168 ELD superformace and Sig 168 OTM something-or-another. They all group about the same, the hornady's do slightly better, which was a surprise because thats what I zeroed with and it grouped like garbage the first day. Anybody have loose bolt/fastener issues on their RPR? One of the hand guard bolts fell out right onto the shooting blanket today. I'll go through all the bolts tomorow. Are there any internal fasteners that are not obvious that I need to check?
 
Joining the RPR group. Got a 308. Not sure what gen. Not a huge fan of the 308 but I can find factory match ammo easy and cant find anything in 6.5. I have reloading capability but not on the road so here I am with a 308. First 40 rounds grouped like garbage, but I didn't have a good bag setup and I couldn't load the bipod very well. Next time out I had a better bag setup and I could put a little more load on the bipod and it grouped better. Ammo I have is FED175SMK's, FED168SMK's, hornady168 ELD superformace and Sig 168 OTM something-or-another. They all group about the same, the hornady's do slightly better, which was a surprise because thats what I zeroed with and it grouped like garbage the first day. Anybody have loose bolt/fastener issues on their RPR? One of the hand guard bolts fell out right onto the shooting blanket today. I'll go through all the bolts tomorow. Are there any internal fasteners that are not obvious that I need to check?
Welcome to the club. I've been shooting my .308 RPR now for over 4 years and getting very satisfactory results (though, I do reloading). Am on my 3rd barrel with it. With factory ammo, like Fed 168 SMK's I feel you should expect to easily get sub MOA through your factory barrel and I'd look for around .75 MOA. When I got my Gen 2, it shot a little better than .75 MOA out of the box. But, we always have to remember that with factory guns it's a lottery. Sometimes one get a really good barrel and other times one can get a piece of crap. If after a 100 rounds or so, and you're not getting sub MOA, you should contact Ruger and let them know and they'll likely replace the gun for you. They'll have you send it in for them to take a look first and that could take a few months, so just be aware. I had a 6.5 PRC RPR I wasn't happy with the way the barrel was cut and Ruger replaced it for me.

One of the things I found that really works well with a factory barrel is by conditioning the barrel with Tubb's Final Finish bullets. They fire lap the bore and smooth things out nicely so that the barrel doesn't foul up with copper so bad and makes cleaning the bore much easier. I've done this on both my RPR's factory barrels. For the most part I feel the fire lapping helped some too with accuracy, though I can't say it did a lot with regards to accuracy. But it sure helped with cleaing.

 
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The groups are getting better. I started with like 3" groups and yesterday I was down to like 1 1/4 I think but the total round count is still like 90
Here are some results from my original factory .308 RPR barrel firing Federal 175 SMK's back in 2017:
2017-5-5  Fed 175 SMK.jpg
2017-5-21  175 SMK FGMM.JPG


And here is some results from the that same barrel but with some precision reloaded cartridges:
2018-6-15 - 175 TMKs w AR-Comp.jpg
 
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Wait. The top pics of factory stuff, did it improve to those numbers?
No. The factory stuff did not improve from what I showed. Some lots of the factory ammo did better than others, much like barrel do. When I replaced my factory barrel with a Krieger barrel, there was a substantial improvement using factory ammo. But, I don't use factory ammo any longer and since I used up what little I had on the new barrel.
 
Getting my hands on a 6.5CM gen 3 rpr soon. Only has around 40 rounds through it.
What are most people finding an average COAL to be to hit the lands?
I'll obviously measure when I get it in hand, but curious what everyone else has been seeing?
I have a Gen3 6.5. I run Berger 130 AR Hybrids at 2.800". After about 500 rounds through the barrel, my jump to the lands is .060". I run 2.800" because its the default short action mag length and I only have .170" of bullet bearing surface into my necks. With 140s, it would be easier to seat out longer and still have enough bearing surface into the neck. Since Hornady 140gr factory loads were the rage around the original inception of the RPR, Ruger definitely made sure their chamber could accept 140gr and heavier bullets.

I started load development from a brand new rifle. I chased my ass trying to make sense of the speeds vs charge weights for the first 100-200 rounds as I found the barrel kept speeding up. After 200 rounds, my speeds leveled out pretty good to where load development started making sense. If I had to do it all over again, I would have bought some factory ammo loaded in a top shelf brass and just have fun for the first 200 rounds while the barrel settled in. The 1x fired brass would then have become my load development brass and successive reloadings.

With all that being said, my 130gr load pushed by RL-16 runs at a mild 2850fps. It is 1/4 MOA at 100 yards. I have routinely had 3" five shot groups at 800 yards with this load. During load development, I explored up to around 2950 fps with groups opening up accompanied by a little stiffer bolt lift. I figured I would just hang out at the wide accuracy node I found between 2820-2880fps and enjoy the long brass life. These hybrids definitely don't mind jumping. They feed like butter from my ARC 10rnd mags.

I really favor the 130s for the flatter trajectory and lighter recoil. The Berger 130s don't give up much at all to the 140s against wind inside of 1000 yards.
 
Getting my hands on a 6.5CM gen 3 rpr soon. Only has around 40 rounds through it.
What are most people finding an average COAL to be to hit the lands?
I'll obviously measure when I get it in hand, but curious what everyone else has been seeing?
You're actually asking the wrong question as "COAL" can vary depending on bullet's OAL's. Apparently, what you actually want to know is what the "freebore" is as one might describe the CBTO "to hit the lands". AND . . . what that is with regard to their NEW barrel before firing since throat erosion can change what length the freebore is.
 
I have a Gen3 6.5. I run Berger 130 AR Hybrids at 2.800". After about 500 rounds through the barrel, my jump to the lands is .060". I run 2.800" because its the default short action mag length and I only have .170" of bullet bearing surface into my necks. With 140s, it would be easier to seat out longer and still have enough bearing surface into the neck. Since Hornady 140gr factory loads were the rage around the original inception of the RPR, Ruger definitely made sure their chamber could accept 140gr and heavier bullets.

I started load development from a brand new rifle. I chased my ass trying to make sense of the speeds vs charge weights for the first 100-200 rounds as I found the barrel kept speeding up. After 200 rounds, my speeds leveled out pretty good to where load development started making sense. If I had to do it all over again, I would have bought some factory ammo loaded in a top shelf brass and just have fun for the first 200 rounds while the barrel settled in. The 1x fired brass would then have become my load development brass and successive reloadings.

With all that being said, my 130gr load pushed by RL-16 runs at a mild 2850fps. It is 1/4 MOA at 100 yards. I have routinely had 3" five shot groups at 800 yards with this load. During load development, I explored up to around 2950 fps with groups opening up accompanied by a little stiffer bolt lift. I figured I would just hang out at the wide accuracy node I found between 2820-2880fps and enjoy the long brass life. These hybrids definitely don't mind jumping. They feed like butter from my ARC 10rnd mags.

I really favor the 130s for the flatter trajectory and lighter recoil. The Berger 130s don't give up much at all to the 140s against wind inside of 1000 yards.
Great info. I was thinking of doing a basic load to fire form my brass and break the barrel in.

I'm doing the transfer for the RPR this upcoming Sunday, and since we're in Cali, I won't be able to take possession of it for 10 days. Realistically, I won't be able to make it back to the shop for 2 weeks to pick it up.
The shop happens to be very close to a range, so I was hoping to take some reloads with me on pickup day.
Since I don't have the rifle in hand to take measurements, I am hoping to get a jump on things and make some break in/fire-form loads.

A buddy of mine was getting out of reloading 6.5CM a couple years ago and I got a bunch of stuff from him. I am NOW finally getting a rifle to put this stuff to good use.

I have the following components to work with.
400 pieces of unfired Lapua small primer brass
8lbs H4350
3lbs H4831SC
800 140gr ELD-M bullets
1k CCI 450
1k CCI 41

Once the barrel is broken in, I plan to work the 41.5gr h4350 node with the 140gr ELDM.
I'm looking to get around 2700fps.

I also have about 1k pieces of once fired Hornady 6.5CM brass that said buddy cleaned and sized for semi auto use. I wasn't really planning on using those at this point.
 
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You're actually asking the wrong question as "COAL" can vary depending on bullet's OAL's. Apparently, what you actually want to know is what the "freebore" is as one might describe the CBTO "to hit the lands". AND . . . what that is with regard to their NEW barrel before firing since throat erosion can change what length the freebore is.
Yes, I should have elaborated a bit.
I guess what I should have asked is what would a good starting COAL be for a 6.5CM RPR to make some break in loads with 140gr ELDM bullets, without having the rifle in hand to take measurements.
I was thinking of using 2.820"
My concern was loading them too long.
 
Yes, I should have elaborated a bit.
I guess what I should have asked is what would a good starting COAL be for a 6.5CM RPR to make some break in loads with 140gr ELDM bullets, without having the rifle in hand to take measurements.
I was thinking of using 2.820"
My concern was loading them too long.
I've never had any 140s in my hands to play around with. Out of curiosity, I would see what overall length the 140s would be at if you seated them to where the whole case neck was contacting the bearing surface of the bullet. That would seem to provide for the best possible field durability.
 
I've never had any 140s in my hands to play around with. Out of curiosity, I would see what overall length the 140s would be at if you seated them to where the whole case neck was contacting the bearing surface of the bullet. That would seem to provide for the best possible field durability.
gigamortis, for what you are looking to do a 2.82" COAL with 140 ELD-M projectiles will put you in a good starting length for a 6.5 Creedmoor RPR chamber and will fit well in the magazine without issues.
 
Yes, I should have elaborated a bit.
I guess what I should have asked is what would a good starting COAL be for a 6.5CM RPR to make some break in loads with 140gr ELDM bullets, without having the rifle in hand to take measurements.
I was thinking of using 2.820"
My concern was loading them too long.

In my case, I needed brass, so I bought a case of Prime 130 gr 6.5CM and shot that to break in the barrel and get to know the gun.

Once I started my load workup, I use a bullet comparator to measure CBTO, going for 2.198” which translated into a 2.820” COAL with the H140ELDMs. The big limiting factor on length was what COAL fit in the mags. I ended up using the Magpul AICS mags that allow a little longer COAL than the basic Magpuls that come with from the factory.

Found my node at 41.8 gr H4350 with the H140ELDMs (or at least that’s when I quit messing around with it).
 
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In my case, I needed brass, so I bought a case of Prime 130 gr 6.5CM and shot that to break in the barrel and get to know the gun.

Once I started my load workup, I use a bullet comparator to measure CBTO, going for 2.198” which translated into a 2.820” COAL with the H140ELDMs. The big limiting factor on length was what COAL fit in the mags. I ended up using the Magpul AICS mags that allow a little longer COAL than the basic Magpuls that come with from the factory.

Found my node at 41.8 gr H4350 with the H140ELDMs (or at least that’s when I quit messing around with it).
Thanks for the info. I ordered one of the Magpul AICS mags as well as an ARC mag earlier in the week, as I didn't want to be constrained to 2.820"
Once I have the rifle in hand, I plan on doing the fired case/loctite method to find the lands and back off .002" as a starting point.
I'll go with 2.820" to break in and fire form some brass, as that seems to be a safe spot.
I just found another 2k of the CCI 450 primers in my stash, so I'll use those for the time being.
My buddy who sold me the rifle gave me 100 pieces of Lapua. 50 are unfired, the other 50 fired once in this rifle.
I'll use the fired 50 to do a small workup with H4350 and fire form the other 50 with some of the H4831sc I have on hand.
I'm glad I bought all these 6.5CM components a couple years ago. I knew I'd eventually put them to good use!
 
Yes, I should have elaborated a bit.
I guess what I should have asked is what would a good starting COAL be for a 6.5CM RPR to make some break in loads with 140gr ELDM bullets, without having the rifle in hand to take measurements.
I was thinking of using 2.820"
My concern was loading them too long.
I have been doing some research on this topic and found the American Rifle Company ARC MAG offers "Internal length is nominally 2.97 inches (75.4mm.) Internal length varies due to manufacturing tolerances, maximum practical cartridge length will be slightly less than 2.97 inches."

  • Purposefully designed for use with cylindrical actions such as the Mausingfield and the Remington 700 type short actions, the ARC mag offers a compact 10-round alternative to the Accuracy International CS type magazines.
  • 10-round ARC Mag is the same length (vertically) as the 10-round mag AI AW, approximately
  • Does NOT require an “AW cut” receiver.
  • Cross section is identical to that of the AI CS and the AI AW mags designed for use in short actions.
  • Constructed from corrosion resistant and high strength stainless steel.
  • Reduced friction due to black Teflon coating.
  • An easy to remove floor plate makes disassembly and cleaning easy.

Frequently Asked Questions

  1. Will it fit the Ruger Precision Rifle: Yes
  2. Will it fit Ruger American Predator AI pattern rifles: Yes
  3. Will it work with 6mm ARC: No, it is likely that you will encounter feeding issues with cartridges that small.
https://www.americanrifle.com/shop/product/arc-mag-arc-mag-10-round-7-62x51-308-win-8?category=4

To clarify, I have NOT purchased or used one of these magazines myself, but wanted to share my findings.
 
I have been doing some research on this topic and found the American Rifle Company ARC MAG offers "Internal length is nominally 2.97 inches (75.4mm.) Internal length varies due to manufacturing tolerances, maximum practical cartridge length will be slightly less than 2.97 inches."

  • Purposefully designed for use with cylindrical actions such as the Mausingfield and the Remington 700 type short actions, the ARC mag offers a compact 10-round alternative to the Accuracy International CS type magazines.
  • 10-round ARC Mag is the same length (vertically) as the 10-round mag AI AW, approximately
  • Does NOT require an “AW cut” receiver.
  • Cross section is identical to that of the AI CS and the AI AW mags designed for use in short actions.
  • Constructed from corrosion resistant and high strength stainless steel.
  • Reduced friction due to black Teflon coating.
  • An easy to remove floor plate makes disassembly and cleaning easy.

Frequently Asked Questions

  1. Will it fit the Ruger Precision Rifle: Yes
  2. Will it fit Ruger American Predator AI pattern rifles: Yes
  3. Will it work with 6mm ARC: No, it is likely that you will encounter feeding issues with cartridges that small.
https://www.americanrifle.com/shop/product/arc-mag-arc-mag-10-round-7-62x51-308-win-8?category=4

To clarify, I have NOT purchased or used one of these magazines myself, but wanted to share my findings.
Yea, I just actually received an ARC Mag in the mail today.
Quality looks nice.

I also got one of the metal Ruger Scout mags, made by Accurate Mag.
Looks like it has a binder plate in it, and a quick measurement with calipers looks like it is around 2.90" from the back to the binder plate.

Anybody have experience with the Accurate Mags in a 6.5cm rpr?
How do they work?
Reliable feeding etc?
 
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I’ve made a few updates to my Customshop. I updated the optics to Vortex Razor Gen 2 4.5-27, ARC M-10 QD-L 0 MOA base, pic-mount scope level, MDT Ckye pod, match saver, and Atlas mono-pod. I also added a dot of reflective vinyl to the left hand side to keep it from getting scratched when the stock is folded.

Going to participate in a 600-yard bench rest match on Sunday.
 
View attachment 7808597View attachment 7808595View attachment 7808593I’ve made a few updates to my Customshop. I updated the optics to Vortex Razor Gen 2 4.5-27, ARC M-10 QD-L 0 MOA base, pic-mount scope level, MDT Ckye pod, match saver, and Atlas mono-pod. I also added a dot of reflective vinyl to the left hand side to keep it from getting scratched when the stock is folded.

Going to participate in a 600-yard bench rest match on Sunday.
What do you think of the TriggerTech trigger?
 
What do you think of the TriggerTech trigger?
I like the trigger thus far. I dialed it down about as low as I could go. Interestingly, the “first stage” has no break/set, rather it’s just an adjustable take-up pressure. From there, the 2nd stage break is clean and repeatable. The flat shoe is nice and provides plenty of contact and control.
 
I like the trigger thus far. I dialed it down about as low as I could go. Interestingly, the “first stage” has no break/set, rather it’s just an adjustable take-up pressure. From there, the 2nd stage break is clean and repeatable. The flat shoe is nice and provides plenty of contact and control.
I have been waiting for TriggerTech to release their RPR trigger. I am dying to try it out.

Why did you swap the 20 MOA rail out for a 0 MOA rail?
 
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View attachment 7808597View attachment 7808595View attachment 7808593I’ve made a few updates to my Customshop. I updated the optics to Vortex Razor Gen 2 4.5-27, ARC M-10 QD-L 0 MOA base, pic-mount scope level, MDT Ckye pod, match saver, and Atlas mono-pod. I also added a dot of reflective vinyl to the left hand side to keep it from getting scratched when the stock is folded.

Going to participate in a 600-yard bench rest match on Sunday.
Very nice!

But, since you're going to participate in a bench rest match, you should seriously consider ditching the Atlas mono-pod for the match. A good rear shooting rest will serve you much better . . . maybe something like this:

Amazon product ASIN B0077CE5HS
 
I have been waiting for TriggerTech to release their RPR trigger. I am dying to try it out.

Why did you swap the 20 MOA rail out for a 0 MOA rail?
I did not swap out the 20 MOA rail. I changed my optic mount from a ARC M10 QD-L 20 MOA 1.57" height to an ARC M10 QD-L 0 MOA 1.38" height; the rail is still 20 MOA.

The scope I purchased (here) included the ARC M10 QD-L 20 MOA 40mm/1.57"mount. I was then able to purchase an ARC M10 QD-L 0 MOA 35mm/1.38" mount.
 
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Very nice!

But, since you're going to participate in a bench rest match, you should seriously consider ditching the Atlas mono-pod for the match. A good rear shooting rest will serve you much better . . . maybe something like this:

Amazon product ASIN B0077CE5HS
Agreed. I have a rear squeeze bag, as well as an Anarchy Gear Schmedium shooting bag that I'll be using.
 
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Picked up my RPR 6.5CM today and got the scope mounted up.
Trying out the Arken SH4 4-16x gen 2 and accompanying mount.
Took a bit to set lop and cheek rest.
Took even longer to set the scope up and level the reticle.
I was aiming for a balance between bench and prone positions while doing so.
Got a handful of rounds loaded up to get it zeroed on Sunday and fireform some of my lapua brass.
Loaded up a few hornady cases so I can fireforn and use those for checking length to lands. Will probably make a modified case as well.
The trigger is way lighter than I expected it to be. I don't have a pull gauge, but it feels way under 2lbs.
Did the Davidsons edition come with a different trigger?
 
View attachment 7809241

Picked up my RPR 6.5CM today and got the scope mounted up.
Trying out the Arken SH4 4-16x gen 2 and accompanying mount.
Took a bit to set lop and cheek rest.
Took even longer to set the scope up and level the reticle.
I was aiming for a balance between bench and prone positions while doing so.
Got a handful of rounds loaded up to get it zeroed on Sunday and fireform some of my lapua brass.
Loaded up a few hornady cases so I can fireforn and use those for checking length to lands. Will probably make a modified case as well.
The trigger is way lighter than I expected it to be. I don't have a pull gauge, but it feels way under 2lbs.
Did the Davidsons edition come with a different trigger?
Congrats on the purchase. It doesn't appear that the Davidson version was different from the others, outside of the FDE treatment. Hopefully you have the same experience of accuracy as most of us have enjoyed. I can tell you my CS 6mm shoots ridiculously well, when I do my part. Here are a few from Wednesday’s sighting-in (new scope and mount). One is a 5-shot group with one flyer, the other is a 4-shot group. Both at 97.1 yards (according to my Sig Sauer OpMod 1400 rangefinder).
 

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Congrats on the purchase. It doesn't appear that the Davidson version was different from the others, outside of the FDE treatment. Hopefully you have the same experience of accuracy as most of us have enjoyed. I can tell you my CS 6mm shoots ridiculously well, when I do my part.
Thank you.
I'm taking it out this Sunday to get it sighted in. Having high hopes. We'll see.
 
Thank you.
I'm taking it out this Sunday to get it sighted in. Having high hopes. We'll see.
Got out to play with the rpr today.
Very happy with the results.
Still need to work on the load for it, but choose this to start.
41.5gr h4350
140gr eldm
Lapua brass
Cci 450 primers.
It seems to like more bullet jump than O thought it would have.
These are all between 2.815 and 2.830" oal.
I need to get a better scale too. My old gem pro 20 lacks a little.
10 round group on top left. All the others are 5 rounds
 

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I shot my first 600 yard bench-rest match today. I’m happy to report that I managed to get the highest score, and “closest to bullseye”. At 603 yards, my RPR maintained a 5.481” grouping on two targets. I was using factory Hornady “match” 108 ELD. These guns can shoot, when we do our part.
 

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Sorry if this has already been brought up or asked but 110 pages to read through at work is really tough! :LOL: Is there sometinhg I am missing on the Bolt handle and knob on the gen 2 RPR? It seems like alot of guys are replacing them and I am wondering if it is really adding anything to the rifle other than personal preference and feel. Also is anyone replacing the firing pins? I am looking at Anarchy Outdoors unless there might be a better option.
 
Sorry if this has already been brought up or asked but 110 pages to read through at work is really tough! :LOL: Is there sometinhg I am missing on the Bolt handle and knob on the gen 2 RPR? It seems like alot of guys are replacing them and I am wondering if it is really adding anything to the rifle other than personal preference and feel. Also is anyone replacing the firing pins? I am looking at Anarchy Outdoors unless there might be a better option.

I believe it is personal preference; some say the aftermarket knob enhances the bolt operation, many just want a color or shape mod. For me, the stock bolt knob is comfortable to operate, and I like black rifles...
 
I believe it is personal preference; some say the aftermarket knob enhances the bolt operation, many just want a color or shape mod. For me, the stock bolt knob is comfortable to operate, and I like black rifles...
I appreciate the help on that I assumed the handle and knob was a preference. I heard the firing pins have a tendency to be weak but I am not sure if that is a gen 1 thing or if that is across all three
 
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