Question Gen 2 owners, does anyone have a setup to put a section of pic rail on the handguard at the 12 o'clock position? The rep at Ruger couldn't figure out I had a gen 2 rpr. The holes aren't threaded, so I'm not sure what options are available. Any info is appreciated, thanks.
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Get a keymod pic rail for it. Didn't your RPR come with a keymod pic rail? MY Gen II did but I used it at the 6 for the bipod. You can get more at Ruger.com. Or I'm sure Midway has them as well.
Maybe they don't fit the holes on top? Now thinking about it, I wonder. But I don't have my RPR handy to check...
Do any of you store your RPR folded? I would like to store mine folded for space reasons. For my scope to have proper eye relief on the RPR, it is mounted so far back that it extends beyond the hinge in the stock. If I fold the stock, the scope will be sticking down further than the folded stock by about an inch. It seems like it would be a good way to ruin a good scope. What are your thoughts?
I set the eye relief of my scope in a prone position, since that's how I do most of my shooting. Is this a good way to do it?
I set the eye relief of my scope in a prone position, since that's how I do most of my shooting. Is this a good way to do it?
^ Absolutely, eye relief shouldn't change that much from prone to bench though (at least it doesn't for me). For storage try to use a quick disconnect mount, I use a Larue LT104 it holds zero as advertised. That way you can just take it off or move it forward for storage. They are pricey but you get what you pay for.
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...As far as the gen 2 rail you are forced to use Samson Evolution accessories like these:
http://www.samson-mfg.com/category/Evolution-Accessories.html
http://www.samson-mfg.com/category/Evolution-Accessories.html
I agree with Wu. A QD mount is probably best for you. American Defense makes a nice one too.
Went to the range yesterday for the 1000 yard attemp. We set up a generator at the plate and went up to the 1000 yard pad. We didn't start shooting till 9pm, it was DARK. It took me about 7 shots to make impact. There was nothing but shadow around the plate so it was difficult/ impossible to see our misses. My calculations gave me a 35.6 moa, it ended up being 34.5, pretty close for guestimating my velocity. I was shooting the 129 gr interlock hornadys. After my first intitial hit I made consecutive hits with relative ease. I don't know what happened next but I started hitting just below for the last few rounds, I'm thinking it was the ammo but it's hard to tell, it cooled down a bit too, maybe temperature? Either way it was a good time.
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Sweet! At 1000 yards, temperature is VERY important. Especially when you start reloading. The 1000 yard shoots here start at 8 am. I usually shoot two strings of 20 rounds. As the sun rises, so does the temperature, and I always have more velocity on my second string, leading to a higher impact. I can also get away with loading lighter bullets in the summer that I basically won't even use early spring or later in the fall. About 36 MOA would be correct for me with the .308. With that speedy 6.5 CM no surprise you're at a little less. Bang away man!
Any of you fine folks have the 5.56 RPR yet? What loads are you shooting? Just put one in layaway so I'm doing a lil research.
Anyone have the LRI 6.5CM barrel offering who could offer up any insight as to break in, performance, overall opinion of accuracy? Looking to rebarrel soon and I've all but chosen LRI based on everyone's happiness with work and custom builds, just limited on RPR experiences here aside from Franks review.
Did some more night shooting at a 1000. This time I tried the 140gr Winchester match. Interestingly I went from 34.5 moa to 32.25. It was definitely hot during the day but when we were shooting it was the same temp as before, love the sound of the steel at 1000. There's 3 targets, 36", 24", and 10" I tried the 10" but don't think I got it, maybe next time.
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^ No shame in that. A 1 MOA target at 1000 is tough to hit at night when you can't read wind conditions between you and the target, or even mirage or swirl. Once I take a couple sighters, I'll feel what the breeze is doing on my end, look through the scope to see what's going on in between and at the target end, and just make a POA adjustment for each shot based on that. A 24" plate is just fine for some night shooting.
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I’ve been following the threads here and on Scout about the RPR since its inception. I ordered my Ruger Precision Gen 1 from GT Distributors in Dec of 2015. I was on a wait list for 6 months and finally received my rifles in May of 2016. Yes, I said rifles. I was debating on what caliber to get and my wife said if you can’t decide just get both! My wife is fantastic! So, I ordered the 308 and 6.5. I’ve settled with my current job and was able to get some glass on one of the rifles and I chose to toss it on the 308. I put the Burris XTR II 5-25 scr-mil scope on the 308 RPR. The 6.5 has been waiting on the Vortex PST Gen 2 5-25 EBR-2c mil which was, to my delight, recently delivered and is eagerly waiting to be mounted.
I am wholly inexperienced with precision shooting. All that I have learned has been from watching the videos linked on this sight and perusing many of the forum pages.
I was finally able to get myself to the range with my 308. The first session was setting up and figuring out the scope and getting the rifle zero’d. Once that was done I only had 3 rounds left and they grouped well as you see here.
Ballistic AE measured them to be .45 MOA. I was shooting Freedom Munitions New 308 ammo with the Hornaday 168 gr HPBT.
I wasn’t a fan of the factory stock and like a blessing from heaven MidwayUSA put the Magpul Gen 2 PRS stocks on clearance and I was able to snag one for $165.00. After tossing on the PRS stock it changed the LOP for me and I had to adjust the eye relief of my scope. I tossed that on the 308 and finally had a chance to get out to the range again. After a quick re-zero I got some rounds sent down range. The rifle performed admirably.
I didn’t have anymore of the Freedom Munitions Hornaday HPBT. The second range visit was using Freedom Munitions New Hornaday 168 gr A-max round. Once my rifle was zero’d I shot my first 5 round group. Sadly I pulled the fifth shot! Without the flier Ballistic AE measures the group .53 MOA. My second group was 1.03 MOA.
Given my naiveté with regards to precision shooting I’m pretty happy with my results. I’m looking forward to having both the 308 and 6.5 RPRs up and running.
My rifles are currently outfitted with the Griffin Armament Optimus and Silencerco Omega suppressors on my 308 RPR and 6.5 RPR, respectively. I know the suppressor cover purchased for the omega is too short for the Optimus, but the mirage was quite irritating.
I’m excited to delve into precision shooting and now I’ll have my second rifle so I can bring a partner along as well.
I am wholly inexperienced with precision shooting. All that I have learned has been from watching the videos linked on this sight and perusing many of the forum pages.
I was finally able to get myself to the range with my 308. The first session was setting up and figuring out the scope and getting the rifle zero’d. Once that was done I only had 3 rounds left and they grouped well as you see here.
Ballistic AE measured them to be .45 MOA. I was shooting Freedom Munitions New 308 ammo with the Hornaday 168 gr HPBT.
I wasn’t a fan of the factory stock and like a blessing from heaven MidwayUSA put the Magpul Gen 2 PRS stocks on clearance and I was able to snag one for $165.00. After tossing on the PRS stock it changed the LOP for me and I had to adjust the eye relief of my scope. I tossed that on the 308 and finally had a chance to get out to the range again. After a quick re-zero I got some rounds sent down range. The rifle performed admirably.
I didn’t have anymore of the Freedom Munitions Hornaday HPBT. The second range visit was using Freedom Munitions New Hornaday 168 gr A-max round. Once my rifle was zero’d I shot my first 5 round group. Sadly I pulled the fifth shot! Without the flier Ballistic AE measures the group .53 MOA. My second group was 1.03 MOA.
Given my naiveté with regards to precision shooting I’m pretty happy with my results. I’m looking forward to having both the 308 and 6.5 RPRs up and running.
My rifles are currently outfitted with the Griffin Armament Optimus and Silencerco Omega suppressors on my 308 RPR and 6.5 RPR, respectively. I know the suppressor cover purchased for the omega is too short for the Optimus, but the mirage was quite irritating.
I’m excited to delve into precision shooting and now I’ll have my second rifle so I can bring a partner along as well.
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^ Lookin good. I have the .308 as well and am very pleased. Have about 1600 rounds through it now. Wish we could have suppressers in NY!
Off topic, make sure you guys check out the World Record Rifle thread in here. Canadian just took out an enemy at 2 miles. Badass.
I saw that. I bet he was trained in the US. Whoever said a 50 cal isn't accurate or precise just ate crow.
the bullet may be 50 cal but thats as close as it is to a 50cal ....the bullet I'm sure is far removed from your standard 50 cal round
I finally picked up a rpr in 6 creed last week.Thought I'd try one and I got to say it shoots really well easily shoots 5 inch groups at 950 and will lay them on top of each other at 600.Already put about 260 rounds through it and looking at a lri barrel too.I picked this up as I have nothing but big boomers and a 223ai..I've also never had anything but manners stocks and such on my rifles.The only thing I would like to do is ask what is the best trigger to replace this one with or get the take up out of this one I took the spring out and once you get to it the trigger is really pretty good it's just all the travel to get there.Thanks to all on this discussion as that's what finally led me to try one and I really like this thing not bad for 1000 bucks when it shoots dang near as some of my customs.
Currently only Timney makes a trigger that I personally know of. Gets pretty good reviews.
https://www.timneytriggers.com/news/...ecision-rifle/
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Thanks,I had been looking at them,just wondering if the are much of an improvement for you guys running them,I mean they factory isn't,t terrible just not what I,m used too I guess
Hey news to me. Hadn't seen this one.
Had another good day out at 1000 yards. These 190gr SMK's are killin it. I've had success at every distance I've shot with these. If anyone's looking for a good .308 load try these with 42.5gr Varget
I received the new LRI .243 barrel and Chargemaster insert in the mail Thursday. Last night headed down to the shop and changed it out. This is my second LRI barrel, so the barrel nut broke loose with no problems. Blew off all the old lube in the receiver threads with brake cleaner and 120 PSI, degreased the barrel threads with Everclear, put a little dab of anti-seize lube on the threads and screwed things together. Had some trouble keeping the receiver from turning while tightening the barrel nut, I would get the bolt just right on the headspace gage, bear down on the wrench and the action would turn a hair. After a few tries, got the nut tight with just a slight amount of resistance on the bolt close. A re-sized case chambered with the same resistance, so called it good, re-assembled and headed home.
Then the brain nagging started. I bump the shoulders back .002", so a tight sized case would mean I'd have to bump back another .002". Good, bad, indifferent? Thought about it some last night and this am and decided I'd better re-do the headspace. Repeated the disassembly, clamped down the barrel and re-set. Now a fired case has the slightest amount of bolt resistance, and with a re-sized case bolt throw is nice and solid with no resistance. This was all using 8th fired Lapua brass. Loaded a dummy round with a Berger 108 Match just touching the lands. At about .020" into the lands it measures 2.313" with a C.O.A.L of 2.855". Recorded all the data and branded the dummy round. I'll back the first loads off .040", go from there with load work. There's plenty of room in the mags for growth, I figure by the time I run out of mag length the barrel will be fading.
When I installed the first barrel a Seekins hand guard was also added. When I tried to re-mount the the guard, the internal lock nut was frozen solid. I finally had to clamp it between two 2x4"s in the vise and used a ratchet and socket to get it out. All the threads were filled with a white, flakey gunk. I used a oil pick and chased the threads on both parts, then blew out with brake cleaner. No thread lock was used on the first install. Maybe the factory oil got cooked just enough to harden, I don't know. I re-assembled with a tiny dab of anti seize, good to go. When life gets un-busy, start doing some load workup and shooting. I've also the new Chargemaster, need to make room on the bench and tune it up. Should be fun.
Lessons learned:
A) My home made barrel vise sucks. Time for a re-design or just purchase one.
B) Purchase LRI's new RPR barrel nut wrench.
C) a 1/2"x2"x24" piece of aluminum bar stock works for holding the action while tightening the barrel nut. Not perfect, but it works.
C) Don't change barrels when it's late and one is tired.
D) If things don't fit together on the re-assembly, it's your fault.
Life is good.
Then the brain nagging started. I bump the shoulders back .002", so a tight sized case would mean I'd have to bump back another .002". Good, bad, indifferent? Thought about it some last night and this am and decided I'd better re-do the headspace. Repeated the disassembly, clamped down the barrel and re-set. Now a fired case has the slightest amount of bolt resistance, and with a re-sized case bolt throw is nice and solid with no resistance. This was all using 8th fired Lapua brass. Loaded a dummy round with a Berger 108 Match just touching the lands. At about .020" into the lands it measures 2.313" with a C.O.A.L of 2.855". Recorded all the data and branded the dummy round. I'll back the first loads off .040", go from there with load work. There's plenty of room in the mags for growth, I figure by the time I run out of mag length the barrel will be fading.
When I installed the first barrel a Seekins hand guard was also added. When I tried to re-mount the the guard, the internal lock nut was frozen solid. I finally had to clamp it between two 2x4"s in the vise and used a ratchet and socket to get it out. All the threads were filled with a white, flakey gunk. I used a oil pick and chased the threads on both parts, then blew out with brake cleaner. No thread lock was used on the first install. Maybe the factory oil got cooked just enough to harden, I don't know. I re-assembled with a tiny dab of anti seize, good to go. When life gets un-busy, start doing some load workup and shooting. I've also the new Chargemaster, need to make room on the bench and tune it up. Should be fun.
Lessons learned:
A) My home made barrel vise sucks. Time for a re-design or just purchase one.
B) Purchase LRI's new RPR barrel nut wrench.
C) a 1/2"x2"x24" piece of aluminum bar stock works for holding the action while tightening the barrel nut. Not perfect, but it works.
C) Don't change barrels when it's late and one is tired.
D) If things don't fit together on the re-assembly, it's your fault.
Life is good.
I purchased a LRI barrel last November for my 308 RPR and just recently got around to installing it (life got real busy) The install went well but the results are puzzling. I'm shooting federal GMM out the 22inch barrel and the best group I have been able to archive with the 168 grain is 1.5 inchs worse than the Ruger barrel. When shooting 175 grain GMM the bullets are consistently keyholing! The same ammo is shooting .85 - 1.0 inch groups with my JP semi so I'm pretty sure it's not the ammo.
Anyone have any advice on what could cause this from a brand new barrel?
I have contacted Chad of LRI but after his response of asking me what type of ammo (1day) I'm shooting (reloads or production) I've gotten no response back (5days). Too soon to say what's happening at LRI as far as customer service but not to soon to seek a solution from other experienced shooters!
I'm a newer guy here so thanks in advance for any help.
Anyone have any advice on what could cause this from a brand new barrel?
I have contacted Chad of LRI but after his response of asking me what type of ammo (1day) I'm shooting (reloads or production) I've gotten no response back (5days). Too soon to say what's happening at LRI as far as customer service but not to soon to seek a solution from other experienced shooters!
I'm a newer guy here so thanks in advance for any help.
^ I'd try different ammo or a different load. Ammo that shoots great in one rifle can shoot like shit in another. For example, as far as factory ammo, Federal GMM actually shot the worst in my factory .308 RPR. About 1.5 MOA. Nosler Custom Competition shot the best at about .5 MOA
I'm sure Chad will be by soon and will make sure you are squared away. Folks at LRI may just be taking a few well deserved days off around the 4th of July Holiday.
Definitively something strange going on if you are keyholing rounds. Are you confident in the quality of the barrel change operation? Any chance it may not have been mounted or tightened properly?
Definitively something strange going on if you are keyholing rounds. Are you confident in the quality of the barrel change operation? Any chance it may not have been mounted or tightened properly?
The keyholing was at 100 yards. The barrel install went perfectly, head spacing great. I may take it all apart after I try some different ammo. I have 3 different types of match ammo to try, never had an issue with GMM but anything is possible. I just have a hard time believing the keyholing is from the ammo. Hopefully Chad will have some idea what is happening.
James
James
Have not had the RPR out in quite sometime until today to do some load development with a new 8lbs jug of H4350. The barrel still looks to be a shooter after somewhere around 1000 rounds.5 shot group, 140ELD, 42.2gr H4350, 2748fps with an SD of 4
Truth be told I have no earthly idea why your gun is splattering bullets like a shotgun. Do you have a brake on it or any other type of muzzle device? Anything is certainly possible and LRI is not infallible. I would have to see this thing before having any kind of speculative guess.
As for a 5 day lag, let me put this into perspective: If I sit on my ass and answer email after email after email it does absolutely nothing to ensure I get bills paid. We have a phone number gents. I plainly list it at the top of every single page on our store. We have 5 lines coming into the shop. We answer it when it rings.
Give us a call and lets get you tuned up.
C.
-With the pending holiday, the full throttle schedule we've had since the 1st of the year, and a pending "big deal" that if it comes to fruition we'll be going nuts, I kicked everyone out till Wed.
4 day weekend at LRI. A very rare occurrence.
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Anxiously awaiting news on the big deal. I only tagged you because I knew you would see it and didn't want your good name being dragged through the mud.
No problem, I'm rechecking my install/headspace in the morning then heading to the range with 168/175 Black hills, 167/175 Creedmoor Brand and some Hornady ammo just for the heck of it. I will call latter in the week. No to the muzzle device just your thread protector
I didn't have the cash for the precision, but I did for the RAR 308 in Stainless. How do you feel it will do at 500 to a grand? If it will be MOA or slightly sub I'll be happy. Obviously no T3 or precision, but this is the rifle that I will be using to begin with.
Happy 4th! I had no keyholing from the Black Hills or Creedmoor brand ammo through my LRI barrel today so that's positive. Still the best group was roughly 1.25" (167 grain Creedmoor brand) most around 2" not what I was hoping for. Head space is good, everything seems in order, shooting off a stable set up with my competion Nightforce. I'll call chad this week to see what advice he has.
It was a beautiful morning to shot!!
It was a beautiful morning to shot!!
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Sorry. It is the Ruger American Rifle. It seemed like it was a great gun for the price, but since it's not a Tikka or a Precision Rifle I'm wondering if anyone has any tips or experiences to get the most out of it.
(The worst day at the range is better than the best day at work!)
Just a thought from personal experience. Running a radically tilted bipod especially on carpet has a tendency to cause a muzzle rise on recoil (foot skip). Ideally, the bipod needs to be straight up and down and allowed to move slightly in a straight back pathway. The feet should be planted firmly and not allowed to move, let the movement flex at the top hinge point. I have never been able to get tight groups from a forward tilted bipod, at least not like having it properly set up. To test this, try shooting over a front bag instead of the bipod. Take a video of the muzzle during a shot, then slow it down and see what the muzzle is doing. Take the time to watch the youtube video of MARK and SAM where he does an extensive analysis of how to use a bipod in the most accurate fashion. This guy shoots at 2k-4k yards and is good. Might be something to try to rule out operator methodology errors.
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This might be of intrest for a few of you:
https://www.snipershide.com/shootin...ithing/6487800-friday-s-little-accomplishment
https://www.longriflesinc.com/products/lri-action-wrench-for-ruger-rpr-and-ar15s
https://www.snipershide.com/shootin...ithing/6487800-friday-s-little-accomplishment
https://www.longriflesinc.com/products/lri-action-wrench-for-ruger-rpr-and-ar15s
For those that reload, STARLINE just announced they are now producing 6.5CM brass. I use STARLINE in almost every caliber I shoot, and found the .308 brass to be very hardy, the 6.5 should be just as good.
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