Ruger Precision Rifle Discussion

#801
TacticalDillhole said:
I wish I could say the fit was good. I installed it this am and the thing flaps around like a maraca. I'll probably buy an LRI shroud at some point.
Click to expand...

Glad you posted this. After I installed my replacement it was quite a bit more loose than the original; I thought I had did something wrong. . It was my first time removing the shroud, the movement is not very noticeable when in motion, so no biggie. I think my turnaround time was 2 weeks. Ruger is good to go in my book for CS. They sent replacement handguard screws free of charge quickly as well.
Stretched out to 650 today (far as I got) and was crushing 12" steel with the LRI replacement while getting my dope in order.
 
#802
Griz44Mag said:
Finally got some decent weather and a morning off so out to the 1K we went. The Sinclair bipod is NICE. The range sets are scattered side to side up a long hill, so going from 250 to 500 is uphill, as is 500-600, 600-650, 650-750 and at the top is the 1,000. So to run the ladder, you need to constantly have to re-adjust the legs on the bipod. First set requires a shorter leg than normal, so I spread the legs to drop the barrel, Going to 500 meant taller, so I brought the legs back in and as I went on up the hill just extended the legs. Super simple, super quick. This is now my favorite bipod. I thank you Lefty, for posting the info on it. I like a little play in the legs, as long as it is horizontal and in-line with the bore. It helps with recoil absorption. With the adjust-ability of this this bipod, that is very easily accomplished.
I ran the ladder, five shots at each distance with no misses. After cleaning up at the plate at 1,000 yards, I decided to give the 3" a go. Ever try to hit a 3" hanging gong at 1,000 yards? I hit it on the third shot. Even a blind hog finds an acorn every once in a while. LOL, the bipod is great. And to boot, a guy 4 benches down from me hit about 10 minutes later. Guess what he was shooting? An RPR chambered in 6.5CM. Gotta love these rifles, spot on at 1,000 yards with a factory gun.
Click to expand...


would you suggest the sinclair for a bipod? I'm looking to upgrade the inexpensive one (harris 6-9 no swivel) I have on there now. I'm not trying to break the bank for it though. How important is the bipod on the "you get what you pay for" scale? Should I just upgrade the harris to one with a swivel? or are there others in the 200 and under range worth looking at. I feel like such a noob when it comes to long range. I've been shooting hand guns/ iron sight rifles for 25 years but this is my first real out past 100 rifle.
 
#803
thebigbeardedchef said:
would you suggest the sinclair for a bipod? I'm looking to upgrade the inexpensive one (harris 6-9 no swivel) I have on there now. I'm not trying to break the bank for it though. How important is the bipod on the "you get what you pay for" scale? Should I just upgrade the harris to one with a swivel? or are there others in the 200 and under range worth looking at. I feel like such a noob when it comes to long range. I've been shooting hand guns/ iron sight rifles for 25 years but this is my first real out past 100 rifle.
Click to expand...

there is an adapter out there that will make your non swivel harris into a swivel harris. I cnat remember who makes it, hell it might even be harris. there is no need to get rid of the harris its a fine bipod. but the Sinclair has andavntage in its design so you if you want to go for it.
 
#804
Although I do prefer the Sinclair tactical, the Harris is a fine bipod. As TacticalDillhole mentioned, you can get a swivel adaptor for the Harris. You can find them on Amazon for $15 and up. If you do decide to go with the Sinclair, it will attach to that adaptor as well.
 
#810
This may be a question for the optics section*

Mounting an Athlon Chronus BTR on my 6.5 RPR. Will entry level rings like the Leupold PRW retain the tracking and harmonics to make 1000+ yard hits? Or will more expensive rings make a substantial difference at those distances?

Thanks
 
#813
thebigbeardedchef said:
I know it's not much but I was able to shoot steel out to 300 yesterday. Decided that using the scope at 24X was cheating so I dialed it back to 6. It made me feel a little better about my marksmanship when I'm still pinging the 6 in pie at 300 without fail at 6x.
Click to expand...

I don't shoot past 15ish for most ranges. but the scope on my RPR has a horrible eye box. if I dial it all the way up I can just never get comfortable.
 
#814
The Sinclair adapter replaces the entire stud mount assembly with a new assembly that the bipod mounts directly to. It is not truly an adapter, it is a replacement mounting block. I opted to go this way to keep the number of parts at a minimum, therefore reducing overall height and minimizing movement with more pieces int he stack.
20170908_194434.jpg20170908_194424.jpg
 

Attachments

  • 20170908_194434.jpg
    20170908_194434.jpg
    67.9 KB · Views: 77
#815
^ Griz is exactly right. Adapter isn't quite the right word for it. I use that term only because Sinclair does. As you can see, the entire head comes off the bipod to mount to either a stud or rail. The swap is easy. Only takes a minute. For you guys using a sling, Sinclair put a stud in the bottom of the rail mount head so that you'll still be able to use it.
 
#816
Anyone in here have a Timney two stage that can help me troubleshoot? I just installed the trigger and adjusted the weight down to about a pound according to my Lyman digital gauge. The trigger was supposed to be set at 1 pound from the factory but came in at roughly 1 lb 8.8 oz on average. All of a sudden now I'm getting an intermittent dead trigger. Cycling the bolt won't do anything.

Edited to add: Went to about 1 lb 3 oz and now it's working. Hmmm any ideas?

 
Last edited:
#820
021411 said:
Anyone in here have a Timney two stage that can help me troubleshoot? I just installed the trigger and adjusted the weight down to about a pound according to my Lyman digital gauge. The trigger was supposed to be set at 1 pound from the factory but came in at roughly 1 lb 8.8 oz on average. All of a sudden now I'm getting an intermittent dead trigger. Cycling the bolt won't do anything.

Edited to add: Went to about 1 lb 3 oz and now it's working. Hmmm any ideas?
Click to expand...

Here's the issue. The total trigger weight (Combined first and second stage) must be more than 1 LB or the sear won't reset. Adjust the first stage up a bit (On top of the trigger) then reduce the second stage (On the front of the trigger). Feel free to PM me if you want me to talk you through it.

 
#821
The more I lighten the factory RPR trigger the creepier it gets. Is it worth removing the spring or should I just replace it? and if so, what with?
 
#822
I don't know why its so bad. My American has a good trigger and my Walmart Savage has the best trigger ever. Better than my Tikka. 1.5 lbs and it is there and then it isn't. I am beginning to think its luck of the draw.
 
#824
Got my Timney back from Timney. They told me to just send it in so it can be adjusted which I didn't have a problem with. I have no shame in sending stuff off to get done plus I wasn't in any kind of rush.
This was what was enclosed in the box. The trigger is creep free from the wall to the break. It broke very clean and also felt like some of the over travel was reduced. Might be in my head but it does feel better overall. I'm satisfied. Total pull weight I'm getting average of 1 lb 0.5 oz.
Xbkri8v.jpg
 
#825
I pulled out my trigger spring and wow! What a difference. I suggest everyone try removing the trigger spring before purchasing a new trigger, Unless you just don't like the safety blade,
 
#826
I did a bunch of ladder tests and I noticed that RL17 isn't very sensitive to charge weight. I ran from 42 grns in .5 increments to 44.5 grns and my 6 shot group was .6. Weird... no pressure signs at 44.5.
 
#828
So I finally got my barrel (22" Proof Carbon Fiber 6.5) and my barrel nut is stripped to hell and back getting it off- anyone know where I can get a replacement barrel nut? Or is only from Ruger?I really want to install the new barrel and move forward, but I have to have the barrel nut. I'm Going with a Lancer Carbon Fiber Hand Guard as well.
 
#831
paxamus said:
How do you like it? And they say only 35 ft lbs of torque- is that enough?
Click to expand...
Prior to ordering I watched a review video and the guy said that at 35 it loosened up on him. He then went to 38 without issues. I went ahead and went to 40 and no issues. Just note that the included crows foot is crap. It’s pretty much a one and done wrench. I *guess* it’s made to bend once proper the torque range is reached. I ended up using a real wrench. But do I like it? It allowed me to use an AR specific rail on my RPR and I didn’t have to buy an RPR version.

 
#832
021411 said:
Prior to ordering I watched a review video and the guy said that at 35 it loosened up on him. He then went to 38 without issues. I went ahead and went to 40 and no issues. Just note that the included crows foot is crap. It’s pretty much a one and done wrench. I *guess* it’s made to bend once proper the torque range is reached. I ended up using a real wrench. But do I like it? It allowed me to use an AR specific rail on my RPR and I didn’t have to buy an RPR version.
Click to expand...

Thanks- I just ordered one! Now if I could just get this damn nut off- splines are rounded off- once it was stripped, I went with the old pipe wrench and breaker bar- NOPE- not coming off. Gonna have to drop it off at a Gunsmith tomorrow- so pissed
 
#833
^ I'd take my grinder to it. Flatten each side so I can get a big ass wrench on there if you're going to replace it anyway. Mine actually came loose on its own on one of my 1000 yard range days about a year after I bought it. Tightened it to 60 and it came loose again! I believe I have it at 65 now and have been problem free ever since.
 
#834
IT'S OFF!! I ended up cutting the barrel nut in half with a dremel and then using a cold chisel and 2 lb drilling hammer to free it. Not sure what the hell they put it on with, but once i got it off, the action spun off nicely. Just waiting on my new barrel nut to come in to finish- will post pictures once it's together.
 
#835
paxamus said:
IT'S OFF!! I ended up cutting the barrel nut in half with a dremel and then using a cold chisel and 2 lb drilling hammer to free it. Not sure what the hell they put it on with, but once i got it off, the action spun off nicely. Just waiting on my new barrel nut to come in to finish- will post pictures once it's together.
Click to expand...

When I changed my Handguard I had a hell of a time getting the ruger barrel nut off. They need to fix that at the factory. It's way to tight.
 
Last edited:
#836
I agree. The factory barrel nut was a pain in the D to remove. What I found helped was smacking the end of the wrench a few times with a BFH to get the nut to budge. I had the action in a Seekins action rod.
 
#837
^ Especially with all the drop in barrels they have out for this rifle now. Or even if you just want to put on an AR15 handguard. It seems to be a large and well known issue that should be addressed.
 
#844
has anyone experienced problems with the folding stock pin falling out? mine will work its way down some after folding and unfolding putting it in and out of my case. even had it fall completely out before. any fix for this?
 
#845
marshall2015 said:
has anyone experienced problems with the folding stock pin falling out? mine will work its way down some after folding and unfolding putting it in and out of my case. even had it fall completely out before. any fix for this?
Click to expand...

A while back there was a guy who posted that he did have the same problem. Don't think a fix was posted though. If Ruger sends you a new one you could punch it in and see if it makes any difference
 
#846
Related to the folding stock- anyone's stock have a slight cant to it? I was messing with mine the other day and noticed it. The stock angles very slightly to the right, almost like the one of the faces of the folding mechanism wasn't milled flush. Besides it bothering my OCD, does it effect anything else? It almost seems like it helps your point of aim the way the angle of the stock meets your shoulder
 
#847
shooter28 said:
Related to the folding stock- anyone's stock have a slight cant to it? I was messing with mine the other day and noticed it. The stock angles very slightly to the right, almost like the one of the faces of the folding mechanism wasn't milled flush. Besides it bothering my OCD, does it effect anything else? It almost seems like it helps your point of aim the way the angle of the stock meets your shoulder
Click to expand...

As long as the reticle is plumb you can put all the cant in the rifle you want. However, if there is cant you can easily fix it by loosening the stock and truing it up then retighten. I hate the factory stock, I’m so much happier with my PSR Gen 3
 
#848
Maybe cant was the wrong word. It's not at angle in the vertical direction. It's at an angle in the horizontal direction. If you are looking down at the rifle from above and you drew a straight line from the tip of the barrel to the back of the stock, once you hit the folding mechanism, it angles slightly to the right. Btw, I too didn't like the factory stock. I have the XLR stock on there now.
 
#850
Hey all,
What is the latest on the Timney trigger for the RPR? My stock trigger breaks pretty nice, but it is a bit heavier than I like. I have read some stuff with mixed reviews. How do you think it compares to the factory trigger?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

A
Ruger Precision Rifle, thermal shift , Inaccuracy, common problem?
Replies
2
Views
194
TRG65
TRG65
M
Ruger Precision rifle sling
Replies
2
Views
531
SmokeyJoe101
SmokeyJoe101
Hunt2Eat.dk
Seekins Precision AR safety selector kit for Ruger Precision Rifle 300WM
Replies
0
Views
52
Hunt2Eat.dk
Hunt2Eat.dk
A
Suppressor change POI?
Replies
7
Views
243
Snuby642
Snuby642
BBURCH
Ruger Scout
Replies
0
Views
114
BBURCH
BBURCH
Top Bottom
Back
Home
Forums
Merch
Alerts