Ruger Precision Rifle Discussion

#901
I'm about ready to switch out the barrel on my 6.5 Creedmoor RPR since I think I've shot it out after about 2.5k rounds. The custom Criterion barrel I have on it has been a great upgrade from my original stock one but with so many options out there now, not sure if I should get another one of these or look at others.

I have a LRI .308 on my other RPR and that's a good one, too. In addition, I see Krieger is making a drop-in now, along with SinArms, PVA, and probably others.

I'm curious what recommendations others may have who have owned/shot any of the custom drop-in barrels for RPR 6.5 Creedmoor.
 
#906
shakin_bakin said:
I’ve been reading through here and I have read a couple posts found in the search function. What I can’t find is has someone replaced the stock ruger hybrid brake with a quality aftermarket one like a little bastard, PVA, or MPA brake? Was it worth the money? I’m just trying to eliminate some of the barrel hop and stay on target a little better. Thanks!
Click to expand...

After a ton of searching I’m considering trying out the [h=2]Kahntrol Solutions HexMod Brake[/h]
 
#908
I just came across yet another maker of custom RPR barrels, White Oak Armament. I have a very nice match grade WOA barrel on an AR and knew they made great products for gas guns but this offering was new to me. Anybody out there had any experience with their bolt action barrels?
 
#910
Interesting. I was reading an article about the guy who makes the barrels for the Army's M24 .308 sniper rifles. (I tried to find it again and couldn't. My bad) The Army doesn't rebarrel these rifles until the groups open up to 1 MOA. He says this doesn't happen until between 50,000 to 60,000 rounds. Usually the throats are unrecognizable, and there is no rifling left in about the last 12" of the barrel. Amazingly, they are still shooting 1 MOA. Now, a sniper has a different standard for accuracy vs an f-tr competition shooter, but still, a lot to be said about .308 barrel life
 
#911
LongRangeLefty said:
Interesting. I was reading an article about the guy who makes the barrels for the Army's M24 .308 sniper rifles. (I tried to find it again and couldn't. My bad) The Army doesn't rebarrel these rifles until the groups open up to 1 MOA. He says this doesn't happen until between 50,000 to 60,000 rounds. Usually the throats are unrecognizable, and there is no rifling left in about the last 12" of the barrel. Amazingly, they are still shooting 1 MOA. Now, a sniper has a different standard for accuracy vs an f-tr competition shooter, but still, a lot to be said about .308 barrel life
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I have yet to shoot out a .308 barrel compared to the short life span of my 6.5mm but have been told I should expect up to 10k rounds before losing measurable accuracy. Time will tell but that's a lot better then the 2.5k-ish I'm getting from my 6.5 typical lifespan.
 
#912
shakin_bakin said:
Why that one? I haven't even heard of it until now.
Click to expand...

The few reviews and videos I have been able to find have been excellent. Plus not much if any blow back to the shooters face.

I picked up a Seekins ATC on Black Friday because the deal was just to good to pass up. I’ll probably try it out but may just sell it when it arrives lol.
 
#913
NvTwist said:
Warning this post ended up way longer than I intended.

Initially I was disappointed and surprised at how the feel and function of the bolt and trigger felt after getting my new RPR home. The Trigger didn’t feel very smooth & seems slightly diff with each pull, the safety was very gritty took more effort than i knew it should. The bolt didn’t appear to have any grease on the lugs so didn’t have that feeling when throwing the bolt, ya know that solid satisfying sound.
Click to expand...

I have the same issue with the safety and bolt. Salesman that assisted when I bought it shoots a RPR 6.5 Creedmoor and he said that's how it is not that it makes it right. I have about a 100 rounds right now in mine.
 
#914
Sportsman said:
I have the same issue with the safety and bolt. Salesman that assisted when I bought it shoots a RPR 6.5 Creedmoor and he said that's how it is not that it makes it right. I have about a 100 rounds right now in mine.
Click to expand...

Might want to try some Rem Dry Lube on the bolt. The Teflon lube did a good job on mine to smooth out the action. I use it on all my bolt guns. Won't make it perfect but should help.
 
#916
Drewdemon said:
How do you know when the barrel on a 6.5 is shot out? Accuracy falls off and/or MV falls off...more? Why does the 6.5 burn out so fast (unless that's normal?)
Click to expand...

You'll start to see your groups open up pretty significantly; it's obvious compared to how your groups normally had been. There's various reasons they burn out faster than a .308 but mainly a function of the heat from the higher velocity you're pushing down the tube with a tighter twist. The hotter your loads, the faster they'll burn out. It is "normal" if you want to call it that. Average life span I've seen is in the 2.5k to 3.5k range for the 6.5mm.
 
#918
I have 2300 rounds through the .308 and am still seeing 1/2 MOA accuracy. I'd like to get 7000 out of this barrel, and I actually have another new barrel just sitting and waiting. I change my load for the off season to one that's a bit cooler and produces less pressure but is still very accurate because the 1000 yard line is closed until April. I still have 100 - 600 available.
 
#919
Robo said:
I have yet to shoot out a .308 barrel compared to the short life span of my 6.5mm but have been told I should expect up to 10k rounds before losing measurable accuracy. Time will tell but that's a lot better then the 2.5k-ish I'm getting from my 6.5 typical lifespan.
Click to expand...

Here is some interesting reading on barrel life from an old NRA Handloader's Guide. This is testing on barrels with 30-06 ammunition, but the results should compare quite favorably to 308/7.62 as the bullets are the same but the mass/volume of powder (and thus the amount available to erode the throat) is less in the 308.
[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"https:\/\/farm5.staticflickr.com\/4558\/37938234014_9a3183207b_h.jpg"}[/IMG2]
 
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#920
Reading the above, and comparing the M2, 150gr bullet to the 172gr M1/M72/T291 match bullet, (I measured a couple examples pictured below) besides the obvious weight difference, the bearing length is .445" on the M2 and .485" on the M1/M72 bullet. That is 9% more bearing surface than the M2. Coupled with no cannelure on the match bullet (further reduction of bearing length), the available surface area on the M2 bullet is .392 sq-in and .469 sq-in on the M72. That is a 19% difference. Add to that the velocity on the M2 was 2800fps versus 2640fps on the M72, 6% faster on the M2. Certainly more friction is being developed and distributed over a smaller surface area on the M2 than the M72.

There is little wonder that a 308, shooting 175gr bullets (with .475" bearing length), can easily shoot 8000-10000 rounds thru a barrel before seeing appreciable accuracy loss.

L - M72 R - M2
[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"https:\/\/farm5.staticflickr.com\/4567\/37938869964_c6e85859d0_c.jpg"}[/IMG2]
 
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#921
If you are into the smaller (6-6.5) high velocity games than consider your barrel as an expendable part. You will be changing it out. Anything above 3k will be very high pressure and a lot of heat. Throats will burn out. Brass will have a short life span. Consider loading a bit slower, and you can extend the life of the barrel - some. Just because you shoot long distance does not mean you HAVE to shoot high velocity. I run my 6.5 CM rounds (143gr ELD-X) at 2700 fps, and out to 1,000 yards consistently and accurately. Yesterday AM with dead still air I tagged a 3" gong at BOTW twice in 7 rounds at 1,000 yards. Since this is also the round I hunt with, the calcs to show it is still terminal on medium game (whitetail) out past 500 yards. I have set this as my personal limit for ethical hunting purposes. At 500 with a cold bore, I have a 49 out of 50 hit ratio on a 6" plate. Point - you don't have to go hyper-spreed to have good long range accuracy. Still understand, with small, fast bullets, you will be changing barrels. Fortunately, these are easy to change so I have the tools and keep a spare barrel in the cabinet for "when" - not "if" it will need to be changed.
Griz.
 
#922
Sportsman said:
I have the same issue with the safety and bolt. Salesman that assisted when I bought it shoots a RPR 6.5 Creedmoor and he said that's how it is not that it makes it right. I have about a 100 rounds right now in mine.
Click to expand...

I didn’t use anything special to get ride of the gritty ness of the trigger, just removed it like the manual shows and worked in the oil on each pivot pin by spinning them with my fingers as the oil worked it’s way down the pin. Just put a drop on the E-clip of the pin and spin it from the other side till ya feel the oil. While it all down afterwards and put it back in.
as far as the bolt the only thing I did was to put grease (not oil) on the backside of each lug and the surfaces under the shroud near the firing pin.
I used M-Pro 7 oil and grease but any oil and gun grease will work just fine. I’ve just had this stuff for years and haven’t run out yet to try anything else yet.
 
#923
Dicks had these on sale. Got one in 6.5 Creedmoor. Trying to decide on a scope. I shot NRA long range for years. Had a 6.5-284. It lasted 1,100 rounds. Just quit during a match. In the last match, could barely keep on paper. Cleaned and benched rested. Was shooting .5 moa. Went to 2.5 moa all at once. Re- barreled. 6.5x55. Only gave up about 50-70 fps. Come ups from 200 to 1,000 yds exactly the same as the 6.5x284. That barrel lasted 2,000 rounds. 142 gr Sierra Match King, IMR 4350, with the 6.5x55. About 2,900 fps. Hope the Creedmoor will last longer. Maybe 2,500 rounds. But barrel replacement should cost less with the RPR.
 
#924
If this isn’t the proper discussion I’m sorry in advance. Here is what I have been pondering over for a couple weeks now, and I figured I would get some professional input. I’m looking into getting a 6.5 creedmoor and I have been thinking about the Ruger Precision Rifle and upgrading to a LRI match barrel or going with the Tikka CTR and going with a KRG x-ray. I know there is the option of the t3x tac a1 also but I think I can do the upgrades and come out a little cheaper. I can get the RPR for $1,099 and the tikka for $899. After the upgrades there won’t be a lot of difference in price, this will be used for hunting occasionally but mostly just getting into some long range shooting. I have the Tikka T3 varmint in .223, I love the action and it shoots great. Thanks for any input fellas.
 
#925
Well, since this is the RPR topic area, and most of us in this area have RPR rifles, you will likely get a very biased recommendation for a rifle. I am over 1200 rounds down the factory tube on my 6.5CM, and yesterday I was tagging a 3" gong with it - at 1,000 yards. I see no reason to take a new rifle and replace the barrel, especially when it shoots like this one does. When the barrel does go, and it will, at that time I will replace it and hope that I get a barrel as good as the factory barrel has been. So welcome to the forum CodeRed, (And go get that RPR)
Griz
 
#926
Codered161 said:
If this isn’t the proper discussion I’m sorry in advance. Here is what I have been pondering over for a couple weeks now, and I figured I would get some professional input. I’m looking into getting a 6.5 creedmoor and I have been thinking about the Ruger Precision Rifle and upgrading to a LRI match barrel or going with the Tikka CTR and going with a KRG x-ray. I know there is the option of the t3x tac a1 also but I think I can do the upgrades and come out a little cheaper. I can get the RPR for $1,099 and the tikka for $899. After the upgrades there won’t be a lot of difference in price, this will be used for hunting occasionally but mostly just getting into some long range shooting. I have the Tikka T3 varmint in .223, I love the action and it shoots great. Thanks for any input fellas.
Click to expand...

All I can say is that the RPR is a great way to get into the precision game and it shoots very well right out of the box. I would get used to it for a bit before even replacing the barrel since you should still be able to shoot 1/2 MOA with good match ammo or properly done hand loads. You can then decide on what you want to upgrade since there are a number of options available and most can be done DIY if you're handy and with the help of YouTube.

I have 2 RPRs, a 6.5 Creed and a .308, and have customized them completely over time, but mainly because I wanted something "better" not necessarily because I needed them to markedly improve performance, although a custom barrel certainly won't hurt.

I can't speak to the Tikka since I haven't owned one.

Good luck.
 
#929
Codered161, as a tikka owner I share your delimma. I had to buy a rpr because they are so practical. I started with a tikka ctr in 308 when they first came out. Even after buying and shooting the rpr in 6.5, I had to get a 24" ctr in 6.5 creedmoor. It's like having a car that is a daily commuter that gets you there economically, and a sports car that you take out and enjoy in your spare time. My 2 cents. I enjoy shooting both the rpr and the tikka.
 
#930
^ That's why reloading is the bomb. My reloads (.308), that I'm seeing about 1/2 MOA accuracy with, cost me about 45 cents per round. Got the rifle on gunbroker for $999

Thats with the factory barrel. I have another new factory barrel on deck that I got cheap from someone who just wanted to unload it.

Could I do better with a custom barrel? Maybe. But with the accuracy that I'm seeing from the factory barrel, and considering I don't compete all that much, it's not really cost effective for my purposes.
 
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#931
LongRangeLefty said:
^ That's why reloading is the bomb. My reloads (.308), that I'm seeing about 1/2 MOA accuracy with, cost me about 45 cents per round. Got the rifle on gunbroker for $999

Thats with the factory barrel. I have another new factory barrel on deck that I got cheap from someone who just wanted to unload it.

Could I do better with a custom barrel? Maybe. But with the accuracy that I'm seeing from the factory barrel, and considering I don't compete all that much, it's not really cost effective for my purposes.
Click to expand...

The only thing I'd watch for when buying the RPR anywhere is that it's a Gen II model vs. the Gen I. They put some nice upgrades on the second version. The Gen I is still a good deal but worth a bit more for the newer model, IMO.
 
#932
Robo said:
The only thing I'd watch for when buying the RPR anywhere is that it's a Gen II model vs. the Gen I. They put some nice upgrades on the second version. The Gen I is still a good deal but worth a bit more for the newer model, IMO.
Click to expand...

There's really not much that's different or value-added about the Gen II, IMO. A new handguard, a muzzle brake, and the aluminum shroud bit? My RPR already has a new handguard and muzzle brake; the shroud was never necessary.

Still going to get hosed when I finally get around to listing it for sale though, bummer.
 
#933
I added a SWFA scope and Sinclair tactical bipod. The only things I upgraded about the rifle itself was the shroud and grip. The shroud was more of an appearance thing.
 
#934
TheOE800 said:
There's really not much that's different or value-added about the Gen II, IMO. A new handguard, a muzzle brake, and the aluminum shroud bit? My RPR already has a new handguard and muzzle brake; the shroud was never necessary.

Still going to get hosed when I finally get around to listing it for sale though, bummer.
Click to expand...

I didn't like the handguard on original model and that was one of the first things I changed over to a Seekins on one and a Midwest Industries on the other. Like others have noted on this site, including Frank, it seems a bit off center and not as secure as a more quality one is. If you don't mind that, a plastic shroud and needing to buy a brake, then the Gen I will certainly get you started.
 
#935
Robo said:
I didn't like the handguard on original model and that was one of the first things I changed over to a Seekins on one and a Midwest Industries on the other. Like others have noted on this site, including Frank, it seems a bit off center and not as secure as a more quality one is. If you don't mind that, a plastic shroud and needing to buy a brake, then the Gen I will certainly get you started.
Click to expand...

I did the 18” MI. It’s heavy but getting the bipod that much further out makes it so easy to shoot
 
#936
He all,
I am looking to purchase an steel AICS mag for my RPR (6.5) but am a little unclear on which one. Can I just order a short action 308? Or is there a particular model? Also, what are your experiences with Accuracy International Vs Accurate Mag? Any preferences? Any advice would be greatly appreciated..

Thanks
 
#937
BANG...ping said:
He all,
I am looking to purchase an steel AICS mag for my RPR (6.5) but am a little unclear on which one. Can I just order a short action 308? Or is there a particular model? Also, what are your experiences with Accuracy International Vs Accurate Mag? Any preferences? Any advice would be greatly appreciated..

Thanks
Click to expand...

Yes. An AICS 308 will fit. I have those and Alpha Type I that fit in my 5.56 RPR lower, which is the same as yours.
 
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#939
BANG...ping said:
He all,
I am looking to purchase an steel AICS mag for my RPR (6.5) but am a little unclear on which one. Can I just order a short action 308? Or is there a particular model? Also, what are your experiences with Accuracy International Vs Accurate Mag? Any preferences? Any advice would be greatly appreciated..

Thanks
Click to expand...

For what it's worth, you might want to consider the Magpul AICS polymer mags for your RPR unless you really want a steel one. These work great and have a longer internal length than the regular PMAGs so you can load longer if you're in need of that based on your chamber length for hand loads. I have steel AI mags that I use on my AI .308 and they're great but more than twice the cost of these. They work for both .308 and 6.5mm.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/23...-polymer-black
 
#942
^ They're kinda hard to find used. I think I saw one once on armslist for $850. The RPR has a full length rail on top. It also comes with one for the bottom that I think is 3". If you mean on the bottom, I have a solid aftermarket one my bipod mounts to that I got off Amazon for $15
 
#943
Has anybody tried one of the MPA EVGs on the RPR? If so, how do you like it? Pictures?

I'm coming from a 700 in a Whiskey 3 and I'd really like to have a similar firing hand position to that.
 
#944
snorkygunner said:
Has anybody tried one of the MPA EVGs on the RPR? If so, how do you like it? Pictures?

I'm coming from a 700 in a Whiskey 3 and I'd really like to have a similar firing hand position to that.
Click to expand...

[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"https:\/\/i.imgur.com\/jskwr6Bh.jpg"}[/IMG2]
PdkklpPh.jpg

Buddy has one, his fits great. Mine rocks a little bit like it isn't making full contact, haven't bothered pulling it off to figure it out because the grip screw is telling me the threads on the lower are close to crossthreading.
 
#945
TheOE800 said:
[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"https:\/\/i.imgur.com\/jskwr6Bh.jpg"}[/IMG2]
PdkklpPh.jpg

Buddy has one, his fits great. Mine rocks a little bit like it isn't making full contact, haven't bothered pulling it off to figure it out because the grip screw is telling me the threads on the lower are close to crossthreading.
Click to expand...

The EVGs fit is just to far off for me to consider, the back portion not matching up to the rifle looks pretty bad to me. If they design one to fit the RPR better I’d give it a try.
 
#946
TheOE800 said:
[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"https:\/\/i.imgur.com\/jskwr6Bh.jpg"}[/IMG2]
PdkklpPh.jpg

Buddy has one, his fits great. Mine rocks a little bit like it isn't making full contact, haven't bothered pulling it off to figure it out because the grip screw is telling me the threads on the lower are close to crossthreading.
Click to expand...

Thank you. Disappointing about that gap, but I can't imagine it'd be too hard to build up that area in there.
 
#948
TheOE800 said:
[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"https:\/\/i.imgur.com\/jskwr6Bh.jpg"}[/IMG2]
PdkklpPh.jpg

Buddy has one, his fits great. Mine rocks a little bit like it isn't making full contact, haven't bothered pulling it off to figure it out because the grip screw is telling me the threads on the lower are close to crossthreading.
Click to expand...

Looks like an afterthought!
 
#950
JRM said:
My first range trip today with my LRI barreled RPR and I'm impressed. I'll have another trip to confirm but 42gr h4350 under a 140 ELDM and FGMM primer is looking promising. I've changed the stock and got a new magazine enroute, about my only bitch is the bolt texture. It's almost zipper like.
Click to expand...

Mine is bad enough that it has started to wear down the black coating inside the action. I opened a tech case with Ruger and they have asked for me to send the rifle back to them to check it out. Maybe its nothing to worry about, but it seems to be causing some excessive premature wear.
 
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