Ruger Precision Rifle Discussion

[BallisticSam]

Mine is bad enough that it has started to wear down the black coating inside the action. I opened a tech case with Ruger and they have asked for me to send the rifle back to them to check it out. Maybe its nothing to worry about, but it seems to be causing some excessive premature wear.

I have something to say about the above comments.... http://shopwilsoncombat.com/Silicone...oductinfo/267/ Yes the inside shines up after a while. At first I was spraying down the bolt with Rem Oil and other things and the bolts still have that rough feel about it and then one day at the local gun shop the owner gave me a Wilson Combat Silicone cleaning cloth and I haven't looked back. I'll take the bolt after a few hundred rounds or every time I happen to have the bolt out and rag handy and just wipe it down/off with the rag and wipe some from the inside of the receiver AND THATS IT!. I swear this helped the feel of the bolt. It seems that the bolt doesn't react well to just having Oil on it. It says on the rag too that this stuff works for fishing reels which got me thinking. The bolt has kind of the same finish as some of the inside of reals and other stainless bare metal parts. Give this a try. Or find some Silicone Reel oil and a felt rag and make your own.

I noticed the same thing, the inside getting shiny but its the same thing with other mechanical parts that move together. I never expected the inside of the receiver to keep the same finish as new. Even Cerakoted parts show wear after a while and this finish on the RPR's is nothing to be proud of. Let it wear and smooth out then if you want get the inside and rifle Cerakoted to make it "look" better. Point is Use one of these rags and get some rounds down the barrel, it will smooth out. OH and remove that stupid O-ring off the back of the bolt if you happen to have a Gen2.

 

[straightshooter1]

I've got a Gen2 308 RPR and I understood from the beginning that this action is not built anywhere close to high end products. It's always felt a little loose until the bolt is locked down. This 3 lug bolt has been working very well. When working the action I still get zipper like sound. As long as the rifle performs well, that's what I'm most interested in and it's been performing very well since out of the box and now with over 1400 rounds through the barrel.

See pics:

Sent from Tapatalk

 

[Robo]

I've got a Gen2 308 RPR and I understood from the beginning that this action is not built anywhere close to high end products. It's always felt a little loose until the bolt is locked down. This 3 lug bolt has been working very well. When working the action I still get zipper like sound. As long as the rifle performs well, that's what I'm most interested in and it's been performing very well since out of the box and now with over 1400 rounds through the barrel.

See pics:

Sent from Tapatalk

Yep, those guns are built to get guys into precision shooting, not to compete with the ones costing many times more. Like you said, if it shoots well, and appears that it does, that's what counts.

One thing I did notice on my RPR .308 recently though was that the groups started to open up quite a bit after <1k rounds. Turns out the picatinny rail on top came loose and my optic was all over the place. A bit of blue Loctite took care of the problem but probably worth checking if others run into this "mysterious" problem.....

 

[LongRangeLefty]

^ I agree. I don't like to so much as scratch mine. But if it happens oh well. That's what duracoat is for. My gen 1 RPR .308 has just over 2300 round through the factory barrel and I'm still seeing 1/2 to sub 1/2 Moa accuracy from my hand loads.

 

[Arc Light]

You guys that have picked one up recently, any issues with crooked barrels? I've been reading that quite a few came from the factory with noticeably off-center barrels that required warranty replacement. Apparently the threads were machined off center. Don't want to deal with that headache on a brand new gun.

 

[shakin_bakin]

Not 100% sure how to check that.... I picked one up about a month ago and it shot sub MOA at 100 yards with Hornady Whitetail.

 

[_Windrider_]

You guys that have picked one up recently, any issues with crooked barrels? I've been reading that quite a few came from the factory with noticeably off-center barrels that required warranty replacement. Apparently the threads were machined off center. Don't want to deal with that headache on a brand new gun.

I’ve seen crooked hand guards but never a barrel.

 

[Arc Light]

I’ve seen crooked hand guards but never a barrel.

Maybe it's not as common as I thought. The one's I read about were shooting so far left at 100 yards that they had to use all/most of the windage adjustment just to zero the gun. Ruger ended up sending sending them new guns.

 

[_Windrider_]

Maybe it's not as common as I thought. The one's I read about were shooting so far left at 100 yards that they had to use all/most of the windage adjustment just to zero the gun. Ruger ended up sending sending them new guns.

Well I have to imagine it happens. I doubt they change their tooling and calibrate the tools as often as some of the high end makers. Hard to do in a mass production scenario. They likely accept the risk of a few bad ones every couple hundred or so.

peopel also assume that their scopes come set with the turrets and caps set at exactly mid travel. That also isn’t the case.

 

[CoyoteKilo]

Here's my two cents on the RPR...By all accounts they are an awesome rifle, I know a guy that has one shooting .3 MOA groups with his hand loads on a regular basis. One thing I will say is that while $1000 will get you in the door I think there are a lot of things on the gun that need replaced. The factory stock feels cheap and is a PITA to adjust in my experience, the stock handguard is awful and shifts if you put any weight on it. The stock bolt knob is plastic I believe and also the factory bolt shroud is now Aluminum but it has parts in it and people say that it is not high quality and can loosen up...

So, now we have a $1000 gun, a $200 hand guard, a $200 Magpul PRS, a $20 buffer tube, a $50 bolt knob, and a $50 bolt shroud. Most guys put a new grip on the gun too. You've now got $1500 plus into the gun and in my opinion you can do way better than that elsewhere. Eurooptic has barreled 700P actions with AI AT chassis for $1500 right now, id much rather have that.

For someone that doesnt like to mess with their guns and just wants to open a box and go shoot sub MOA, its a great gun. If you like to be a little different from the crowd and customize your gun, can't beat a 700 in a good chassis or stock IMO.

 

[_Windrider_]

Here's my two cents on the RPR...By all accounts they are an awesome rifle, I know a guy that has one shooting .3 MOA groups with his hand loads on a regular basis. One thing I will say is that while $1000 will get you in the door I think there are a lot of things on the gun that need replaced. The factory stock feels cheap and is a PITA to adjust in my experience, the stock handguard is awful and shifts if you put any weight on it. The stock bolt knob is plastic I believe and also the factory bolt shroud is now Aluminum but it has parts in it and people say that it is not high quality and can loosen up...

So, now we have a $1000 gun, a $200 hand guard, a $200 Magpul PRS, a $20 buffer tube, a $50 bolt knob, and a $50 bolt shroud. Most guys put a new grip on the gun too. You've now got $1500 plus into the gun and in my opinion you can do way better than that elsewhere. Eurooptic has barreled 700P actions with AI AT chassis for $1500 right now, id much rather have that.

For someone that doesnt like to mess with their guns and just wants to open a box and go shoot sub MOA, its a great gun. If you like to be a little different from the crowd and customize your gun, can't beat a 700 in a good chassis or stock IMO.

Yeah but after blueprinting the garbage 700 action and bolt face and replacing the triggeryou are over 2k and it’s still a factory rem bbl. I guarantee the RPR will shoot just as good as your 700p. The only thing that has going for it is the AI Chassis. But on the RPR I agree with all your points and have replaced every part you mentioned.

 

[Robo]

Yeah but after blueprinting the garbage 700 action and bolt face and replacing the triggeryou are over 2k and it’s still a factory rem bbl. I guarantee the RPR will shoot just as good as your 700p. The only thing that has going for it is the AI Chassis. But on the RPR I agree with all your points and have replaced every part you mentioned.

One of the best parts of the RPR, IMO, other than how great they shoot out of the box, is the ease of upgrading virtually every part of it, minus the receiver, depending on what you feel like doing, and you can pretty much do it yourself. I too have changed out everything pretty much over time and the best money spent was on a custom barrel. Makes a good gun a very good gun.

 

[Arc Light]

One other question regarding ring height. Would AR height (1.5") work best on the RPR? My scope has a 56mm objective plus lens cap. Thanks.

 

[_Windrider_]

One other question regarding ring height. Would AR height (1.5") work best on the RPR? My scope has a 56mm objective plus lens cap. Thanks.

Thats cutting it close imo, especially if you have a full rail. This is a 50mm objective with 1.49” rings if you don’t have a full length rail u would be good

 

[Robo]

One other question regarding ring height. Would AR height (1.5") work best on the RPR? My scope has a 56mm objective plus lens cap. Thanks.

I'm running AR height (1.45") Seekins rings on mine with a 56mm objective and 34mm tube with Vortex defender caps, so I think you're safe with the type you mention. I have to position the front cap so the tabs straddle the sides of the rail but it's not a problem.

 

[Arc Light]

^^^^thanks guys, much appreciated!

 

[BallisticSam]

My barrel points right. I have over a full rev on windage more than elevation. As in elevation is on rev 2 and windage on 3. It's a gen2 and shoots like they do which is great But I was wondering if the threads are off center or what was going on. Sounds like they are, which means that a new barrel will be just as off center unless there is room in there for a smith to machine true threads and thread the barrel to match. Basically blue printing the action.

 

[Arc Light]

My barrel points right. I have over a full rev on windage more than elevation. As in elevation is on rev 2 and windage on 3. It's a gen2 and shoots like they do which is great But I was wondering if the threads are off center or what was going on. Sounds like they are, which means that a new barrel will be just as off center unless there is room in there for a smith to machine true threads and thread the barrel to match. Basically blue printing the action.

This is the thread I was refering to earlier. A couple of guys ended up getting new rifles from Ruger due to off center barrels.

http://rugerforum.net/ruger-bolt-action/261393-barrel-alignment-off-gen-2-ruger-precision-rifle.html

 

[shakin_bakin]

This is the thread I was refering to earlier. A couple of guys ended up getting new rifles from Ruger due to off center barrels.

http://rugerforum.net/ruger-bolt-action/261393-barrel-alignment-off-gen-2-ruger-precision-rifle.html

Hmm well thats interesting. I think I'm going to check.

 

[CoyoteKilo]

Like I said, not bashing on the RPR, I think it's an awesome rifle for the price of admission but I do think guys need to know that to get it "right" you're looking at a $1500-$1700 gun. One thing I do disagree on is that the Remington 700 action is garbage and needs trued. I have a buddy that has a completely factory 700, only thing he did was put it in free floated stock and his gun shoots same hole at 100 yards. It's absolutely insane and pisses off all the guys at the range including me. I think he has like $600 total in the gun.

With that said, Remington has some QC issues and you can get a bad gun but generally if you buy an expensive Remy like a 700P or a 5R you end up with a solid shooter and have unlimited room to upgrade in the future. I have also read, and I dont know how true this is, that the Remington 700Ps are put together with more care because theyre an LEO model...At the end of the day, the Ruger and the Remy can be great guns depending on what you want in your rifle. I wanted to be able to have that classic Remington look so I went for the 700, different strokes for different folks.

 

[straightshooter1]

different strokes for different folks.

Yup . . . that's EXACTLY it. It all depends on what you want and how you want to go about it. Kinda like cars, huh???

I've added nothing to my RPR and with hand loading am consistently getting sub .5 MOA. Oh, but I did do a little tweaking . . . which only consisted of removing the trigger adjustment spring to get less than a 1 lb pull (I REALLY like the way the trigger feels now) and fire lapped the barrel. If I wanted to do more to this rifle, to replace things with "better" things, I wouldn't have bought it to start with. I am looking forward to getting a high quality custom barrel for it after I put a few more hundred rounds through it.

I'd really like to get a Proof carbon fiber barrel to best handle the summer heat here in AZ, but I'm finding it really hard to justify the cost when there are some really good barrels for almost half the cost.

 

[LongRangeLefty]

I have a gen 1 .308 factory, aluminum bolt shroud, 20x SWFA SS scope, Team Warne 1 piece mount, Sinclair tactical bipod, and a Hogue grip. Never touched the trigger. I load my own ammo. All together not much into the rifle and I shoot with the 600 yard competitors all the time and do just as well as them without having paid the same price. In fact I often get compliments on how well this budget rifle shoots. No problems at all shooting out to 1000. Loving it

 

[CoyoteKilo]

Yup . . . that's EXACTLY it. It all depends on what you want and how you want to go about it. Kinda like cars, huh???

I've added nothing to my RPR and with hand loading am consistently getting sub .5 MOA. Oh, but I did do a little tweaking . . . which only consisted of removing the trigger adjustment spring to get less than a 1 lb pull (I REALLY like the way the trigger feels now) and fire lapped the barrel. If I wanted to do more to this rifle, to replace things with "better" things, I wouldn't have bought it to start with. I am looking forward to getting a high quality custom barrel for it after I put a few more hundred rounds through it.

I'd really like to get a Proof carbon fiber barrel to best handle the summer heat here in AZ, but I'm finding it really hard to justify the cost when there are some really good barrels for almost half the cost.

That's awesome man, really goes to show that you don't have to spend thousands of dollars to get a half MOA gun. All of the things I listed about upgrading on the RPR are preference, there are certainly people like you that are getting fantastic results straight out of the box. Have to respect Ruger for putting out a gun that has made it easy for people to get into precision rifle shooting!

 

[_Windrider_]

That's awesome man, really goes to show that you don't have to spend thousands of dollars to get a half MOA gun. All of the things I listed about upgrading on the RPR are preference, there are certainly people like you that are getting fantastic results straight out of the box. Have to respect Ruger for putting out a gun that has made it easy for people to get into precision rifle shooting!

I think that’s just it. I have may rifles. Some really really expensive (my surgeon XL 338 was pricey as hell) but I would never compare that to my RPR. My GAP and Ruger shoot about the same, and that’s a reflection of me and my skill level. But the GAP is just so refined and such a pleasure to shoot. But for 1200 bucks and what the RPR gives it’s hard to beat. Same with a Tika or some of the others that have come to market since the RPR opened the door. Like we said earlier. Different strokes for different folks. It’s abiut what you like what you can afford and what is available.

I absolutely hate it when someone says my gap or surgeon or whatever is way better than the rPR. Well shit, it better be for what you paid!!!!! but the best rifle only shoots as good as the guy shooting it. And if the RPR gets a new shooter in the game than that’s a win.

 

[Robo]

I think that’s just it. I have may rifles. Some really really expensive (my surgeon XL 338 was pricey as hell) but I would never compare that to my RPR. My GAP and Ruger shoot about the same, and that’s a reflection of me and my skill level. But the GAP is just so refined and such a pleasure to shoot. But for 1200 bucks and what the RPR gives it’s hard to beat. Same with a Tika or some of the others that have come to market since the RPR opened the door. Like we said earlier. Different strokes for different folks. It’s abiut what you like what you can afford and what is available.

I absolutely hate it when someone says my gap or surgeon or whatever is way better than the rPR. Well shit, it better be for what you paid!!!!! but the best rifle only shoots as good as the guy shooting it. And if the RPR gets a new shooter in the game than that’s a win.

Excellent points. I also have a number of rifles and my AI AX shoots better than my RPR but it damn will better for what it cost. I still like my RPR and don't plan to part with it anytime soon.

 

[NvTwist]

Finally got my RPR out to the Range and Zerod. My rifle / ammo combo achived roughly a .57moa 3 round group at 100yrds. Im sure it could be smaller if i was using a rear bag or some other support other than my shoulder. Rifle only had 30 rounds total at the time of this group. Im happy with the results.

Ruger RPR 6.5cm / Vortex Viper HSLR 6-24x50 FFP / ammo Hornady 140gr ELD Match

 

[cusco19]

hi guys.. new member here. usually on calguns. i'm really torn between 308 or 6.5 for RPR. since i'm in CA.. trying to stock up on ammo before the ban in Jan 2018, so figured get the ammo first than the RPR. my application is i want to shoot long distance so leaning towards the 6.5, but open to 308 as well since cpr may be more economical.

but which ammo would you recommend for the 6.5 or 308? since i don't reload or have the ability to reload, i'm looking at bulk ammo type. yardage is about 500-600.. but eventually wanted to go up towards SAC to shoot 1000 yards. thanks~

 

[LongRangeLefty]

^ I tried several types of ammo in the .308 before reloading. Nosler custom competition 168 gr bthp did the best with my best group measuring .17". Normally it shot .3 - .5. At 1000 yards it was Honady Superformance 178 gr. Bthp. I'm now loading Sierra Matchking 190 gr bthp with 42.5 gr varget

 

[straightshooter1]

hi guys.. new member here. usually on calguns. i'm really torn between 308 or 6.5 for RPR. since i'm in CA.. trying to stock up on ammo before the ban in Jan 2018, so figured get the ammo first than the RPR. my application is i want to shoot long distance so leaning towards the 6.5, but open to 308 as well since cpr may be more economical.

but which ammo would you recommend for the 6.5 or 308? since i don't reload or have the ability to reload, i'm looking at bulk ammo type. yardage is about 500-600.. but eventually wanted to go up towards SAC to shoot 1000 yards. thanks~

Prime is a good one to seriously consider. See https://www.primeammo.com/ammunition/308.html

Also, I find that Federal's Premium GMM's are very good for factory ammo. For good pricing and free shipping, see https://www.targetsportsusa.com/fed...ra-matchking-hollow-point-gm762m2-p-3017.aspx

 

[Boltfluter]

A little something that you guys might be interested in. Makes the bolt cycle very slick as the coated flute option includes polishing the bolt body.

Gets rid of the "zipper sound" and makes it very slick.

Hope you enjoy the pics. Feel free to call with any questions you may have. 208-871-7429

E-mail - [email protected]

Thanks guys,

Paul

 

[Robo]

looks very nice! what's the going rate for fluting an RPR bolt?

 

[NvTwist]

which ammo would you recommend for the 6.5 or 308?

Before I bought any ammo for my 6.5cm rifle I did alot of looking around & I noticed that alot of people & articles that posted the groupings RPR the 140gr was the most consistent preforming sub MOA groups. Since I also do not hand reload I ordered a couple boxes of Hornady 140gr ELD Match & like I posted above im consistently getting just over half moa groups. I feel if I support the rear of my rifle on a bag they would be a bit smaller but I haven't tested that yet.
As far as the 308 version I have opinion going thru the RPR but im sure others do and will give some advise.
The 140gr might not be the best but its what im using and very happy with the results.

 

[Robo]

Before I bought any ammo for my 6.5cm rifle I did alot of looking around & I noticed that alot of people & articles that posted the groupings RPR the 140gr was the most consistent preforming sub MOA groups. Since I also do not hand reload I ordered a couple boxes of Hornady 140gr ELD Match & like I posted above im consistently getting just over half moa groups. I feel if I support the rear of my rifle on a bag they would be a bit smaller but I haven't tested that yet.
As far as the 308 version I have opinion going thru the RPR but im sure others do and will give some advise.
The 140gr might not be the best but its what im using and very happy with the results.

140 or 147 ELD-M are excellent options for the 6.5 Creedmoor and a stable front and rear support should definitely get you half moa or better results. Good luck!

 

[Boltfluter]

looks very nice! what's the going rate for fluting an RPR bolt?

65.00 for fluting. 65.00 for coating of flutes/polishing of bolt body. Gets rid of the "zipper sound" as an added bonus. Return shipping/insurance runs 12.00

Paul

www.proprecisionrifles.com

 

[LongRangeLefty]

Before I bought any ammo for my 6.5cm rifle I did alot of looking around & I noticed that alot of people & articles that posted the groupings RPR the 140gr was the most consistent preforming sub MOA groups. Since I also do not hand reload I ordered a couple boxes of Hornady 140gr ELD Match & like I posted above im consistently getting just over half moa groups. I feel if I support the rear of my rifle on a bag they would be a bit smaller but I haven't tested that yet.
As far as the 308 version I have opinion going thru the RPR but im sure others do and will give some advise.
The 140gr might not be the best but its what im using and very happy with the results.

I went with the .308 simply for the longer barrel life. I'm at just over 2300 rounds, and while a lot of people with the 6.5 are changing their barrel after that many rounds, mine is just broken in. With my hand loads and the factory barrel, I'm seeing 1/2 MOA accuracy out to 600 yards. I will say this, at 1000 yards my groups open up to about 1 MOA. However, I only get to shoot at 1000 yards 7 days a year. Out to 600 yards is open year round. If I had year round access to 1000 yards or more, the 6.5 would be very attractive to me

 

[Keens]

Pleasantly surprised with what can be achieved with this particular RPR. This is the best of what is normally 3/8 groups, under rock solid bench conditions.

I truly feel like the trigger is holding this platform back. I haven’t been impressed with the aftermarket selection as of yet, and and hoping for more development. A Jewell trigger in this rifle, that feels like it does in my other platforms, would further solidify this as a lifelong piece for me.

 

[shakin_bakin]

Pleasantly surprised with what can be achieved with this particular RPR. This is the best of what is normally 3/8 groups, under rock solid bench conditions.

I truly feel like the trigger is holding this platform back. I haven’t been impressed with the aftermarket selection as of yet, and and hoping for more development. A Jewell trigger in this rifle, that feels like it does in my other platforms, would further solidify this as a lifelong piece for me.

Wow... thats a really tight group... and you even did it with factory ammo....

 

[LongRangeLefty]

Very nice group indeed! I shot this 5 round group bench, bipod and rear bag, back when I was still shooting factory ammo, and I haven't done anything to this rifle that would improve accuracy. I believe it measured .177". To me, that's what makes it a lifetime keeper.

 

[308pirate]

Mounting an Athlon Chronus BTR on my 6.5 RPR. Will entry level rings like the Leupold PRW retain the tracking and harmonics to make 1000+ yard hits? Or will more expensive rings make a substantial difference at those distances?Thanks

There is nothing wrong with Leupold PRW rings. Not sure why you would think they're entry level. So long as the scope isn't somehow crushed in the rings (most likely installer's error), tracking is not a function of what rings you buy.

And what "harmonics" are you talking about? The only harmonics that matter are those of the barrel. How would scope rings affect that in the slightest?

 

[Jefe's Dope]

New the forum and new to PRS. NOT new to guns. I'm about to buy an RPR in 6.5 CM. I've read the entire thread. What advice would you give me before I buy? If I find a great deal on a Gen I, should I take it? Do I really want a Gen II? I'm likely going to change the handguard at some point in time and a suppressor is nearly a certainty.

I am fortunate enough to shoot down the road from Mile Shooting Acc. and stopped in the other day. They(he) wanted to sell me a $4K rifle instead of the RPR they had. Why?

 

[_Windrider_]

New the forum and new to PRS. NOT new to guns. I'm about to buy an RPR in 6.5 CM. I've read the entire thread. What advice would you give me before I buy? If I find a great deal on a Gen I, should I take it? Do I really want a Gen II? I'm likely going to change the handguard at some point in time and a suppressor is nearly a certainty.

I am fortunate enough to shoot down the road from Mile Shooting Acc. and stopped in the other day. They(he) wanted to sell me a $4K rifle instead of the RPR they had. Why?

Gen 1 gen 2. Whichever. The only difference is the hand guard and the muzzle brake. If u get a gen 1 just make sure the bolt shroud was replaced per the recall.

 

[LongRangeLefty]

New the forum and new to PRS. NOT new to guns. I'm about to buy an RPR in 6.5 CM. I've read the entire thread. What advice would you give me before I buy? If I find a great deal on a Gen I, should I take it? Do I really want a Gen II? I'm likely going to change the handguard at some point in time and a suppressor is nearly a certainty.

I am fortunate enough to shoot down the road from Mile Shooting Acc. and stopped in the other day. They(he) wanted to sell me a $4K rifle instead of the RPR they had. Why?

Maybe they haven't shot an RPR

 

[Robo]

New the forum and new to PRS. NOT new to guns. I'm about to buy an RPR in 6.5 CM. I've read the entire thread. What advice would you give me before I buy? If I find a great deal on a Gen I, should I take it? Do I really want a Gen II? I'm likely going to change the handguard at some point in time and a suppressor is nearly a certainty.

I am fortunate enough to shoot down the road from Mile Shooting Acc. and stopped in the other day. They(he) wanted to sell me a $4K rifle instead of the RPR they had. Why?

If you plan to make some modifications down the road, the Gen 1 will suit you fine. It's a great gun to get you into this game. You might end up with a $4k or more gun down the road if your addiction blossoms but the RPR will work for quite some time, maybe a very long time.

 

[straightshooter1]

New the forum and new to PRS. NOT new to guns. I'm about to buy an RPR in 6.5 CM. I've read the entire thread. What advice would you give me before I buy? If I find a great deal on a Gen I, should I take it? Do I really want a Gen II? I'm likely going to change the handguard at some point in time and a suppressor is nearly a certainty.

IF it were a REALLY GREAT DEAL on a Gen I I'd take it. Though I'd lean toward a Gen II just because I feel those at Ruger involved at producing the barrels probably have developed more consistency at putting up a good barrel that's give you what you expect. With a Gen I, if you're not getting the results you expect, then you can upgrade the barrel at a price to what you might have paid for a Gen II anyway and have a gun a little bit better gun. So . . . just thought I'd throw out my thoughts as I read your post.

I am fortunate enough to shoot down the road from Mile Shooting Acc. and stopped in the other day. They(he) wanted to sell me a $4K rifle instead of the RPR they had. Why?

Could be any number of reasons, including a higher commission. But typically, those who recommend guns that are more "custom" built or "high end" feel that is where you'll likely wind up any way and you shouldn't "waist your money" on low end factory jobs when you can't get much resale out of them to make the change over. For some people, that's a valid argument. But for others, like me, not so much so as my budget is very limited and factory precision rifles that produce like the RPR is "good enough" for me.

 

[Jefe's Dope]

Gen 1 gen 2. Whichever. The only difference is the hand guard and the muzzle brake. If u get a gen 1 just make sure the bolt shroud was replaced per the recall.

This confirms what I was thinking. Thanks.

 

[Jefe's Dope]

Maybe they haven't shot an RPR

They had one in stock. I held it. And it's trigger was better, to me, then some others they showed me at much more.

Thanks for the reply.

 

[Jefe's Dope]

If you plan to make some modifications down the road, the Gen 1 will suit you fine. It's a great gun to get you into this game. You might end up with a $4k or more gun down the road if your addiction blossoms but the RPR will work for quite some time, maybe a very long time.

Thank you for the reply. This is what I was thinking as well.

 

[Jefe's Dope]

IF it were a REALLY GREAT DEAL on a Gen I I'd take it. Though I'd lean toward a Gen II just because I feel those at Ruger involved at producing the barrels probably have developed more consistency at putting up a good barrel that's give you what you expect. With a Gen I, if you're not getting the results you expect, then you can upgrade the barrel at a price to what you might have paid for a Gen II anyway and have a gun a little bit better gun. So . . . just thought I'd throw out my thoughts as I read your post.



Could be any number of reasons, including a higher commission. But typically, those who recommend guns that are more "custom" built or "high end" feel that is where you'll likely wind up any way and you shouldn't "waist your money" on low end factory jobs when you can't get much resale out of them to make the change over. For some people, that's a valid argument. But for others, like me, not so much so as my budget is very limited and factory precision rifles that produce like the RPR is "good enough" for me.

I was certain it was for a better commission as he was hard selling pretty hard. No issue with that. Just doing a job. My thought was, after I left, "why didn't he sell me the RPR I came in looking for and asking about and begin a relationship where I would be buying all sorts of supplies and accessories over time up to and likely including a $4K rifle or more. Price was right on the RPR. I just needed a push. Face contorted as soon as I mentioned the RPR was what I was interested in. Yet, they have one in stock. I'm not spending $4K-$7K on a rifle that I may only ever get to shoot at distance once or twice. I need an entry level in order to get all 'my' ducks in order. Am I going to be able to find and use long distance ranges? How often will I be able to go? Will I even enjoy it? These are all questions I need to answer and at $1100 entry, I can answer some of those questions. At $4K, I'm a bit hesitant. No issue, I have a AR19 is .308 build that I'm gonna try out at longer distances and likely pick up an RPR when I find the right deal.

Thanks everyone for your input. I appreciate it and look forward to participating in this thread and forum and getting to know you fine folks.

AR10 pic.

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[LongRangeLefty]

^ No problem. That's why we're here. All I know is very simple.. I shoot with competitive shooters every week with all kinds of very expensive competition setups and do just as well, if not sometimes better, with a rifle I put about $1500 into. I'm not at all left wanting. The whole point behind the RPR was to provide a competition worthy rifle at a lower cost. That's just what I got. After 2300 rounds I still couldn't be more satisfied.

 

[TheOE800]

If shipping/outbound FFL fee weren't such a bitch, I'd happily sell my Gen I 6.5CM RPR.