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It is an enhancement, but probably not the way I'd go with it. I too don't really care for the cerakote. After fluting, I'd want to see it shine and see that machining, and the coating kinda covers that up. The flutes are kinda far apart too. The ones on my MVP were a bit tighter and I think that looked better. It's ok though.
Ran across this on the SH Scout Site
RPR Bolt Fluting by Paul at Pro Precision Rifles
http://proprecisionrifles.com/
RPR Bolt Fluting by Paul at Pro Precision Rifles
http://proprecisionrifles.com/
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I like it too. But then you're gonna have a blank hollow space where your shroud should be with a closed bolt no?
24" of snow. Bastards. Oh well. It's only a 100 yard hike through it to the bench. But no long range for a while.
24" of snow. Bastards. Oh well. It's only a 100 yard hike through it to the bench. But no long range for a while.
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Thats true but I don't think it would look that bad. Sucks about the snow.
I installe the TD Flip Grip. I really like it so far. It offers the best of both worlds (vertical grip for prone shooting, raked grip for shooting from unconventional positions).
https://tangodown.com/shop/tangodown-battlegrip-flip-grip/
https://tangodown.com/shop/tangodown-battlegrip-flip-grip/
I'm so #@*&^^%@#!!! p'd off!! Long story short, the "firing pin back" as they call it.....just snapped off when I was setting the handle to cocking piece relationship to reassemble my bolt into the rifle. Item #3 on Page 51 of the RPR manual. This is the Gen 1 RPR in 6.5 Creedmoor.
Okay so I'll accept I likely did something wrong.......but looking at the broken piece, it looks like there is a flaw in the casting. Granted I'm tired and I have been effing around with this bitch all day.......but man it seemed to snap right easy.
So now I have to order one. I may just send the rifle in because I feel I have a tight chamber. Coupled with some issues I am having with the Lee "Ultimate" die set I am getting pressure signs at around 41.0-41.7 gr of H4350 with a 140gr bullet...either A-Max or SMK.
After a bunch of diagnostic today I am convinced the die is faulty. To get a .0015" bump I have to set the die so that the press is camming over really hard. None of my other calibers are like that. It is the only Lee die set I own and I would have bought a Redding, Hornady or RCBS set in that order except that at the time the Lee was the only one my store had.
Anyone seen that? A Lee die where you have to set the press to cam over real hard, almost to the point of jamming up......to get a mere .001"-.0015" bump? Man on my .308, .223, 7.62X39 and even my 7.65X53 Argy Mauser.......I'm backing off the die slightly, from touching the shell holder at full ram extension, to get .001"-.002" bump. A 1/4 turn too much inwards is like .016" or something.
I've also switched to the .375 insert for the L'nL headspace gauge. I was using the .400 but it seemed to ride very high on the shoulder.
Somewhere between the chamber, the Lee "Not So Ultimate" die and the insert......I believe lie my reloading woes. Never had this much trouble, been loading long enough I'm not a beginner and I get good results in all calibers....no problems. Only 6.5 CM.
Okay so I'll accept I likely did something wrong.......but looking at the broken piece, it looks like there is a flaw in the casting. Granted I'm tired and I have been effing around with this bitch all day.......but man it seemed to snap right easy.
So now I have to order one. I may just send the rifle in because I feel I have a tight chamber. Coupled with some issues I am having with the Lee "Ultimate" die set I am getting pressure signs at around 41.0-41.7 gr of H4350 with a 140gr bullet...either A-Max or SMK.
After a bunch of diagnostic today I am convinced the die is faulty. To get a .0015" bump I have to set the die so that the press is camming over really hard. None of my other calibers are like that. It is the only Lee die set I own and I would have bought a Redding, Hornady or RCBS set in that order except that at the time the Lee was the only one my store had.
Anyone seen that? A Lee die where you have to set the press to cam over real hard, almost to the point of jamming up......to get a mere .001"-.0015" bump? Man on my .308, .223, 7.62X39 and even my 7.65X53 Argy Mauser.......I'm backing off the die slightly, from touching the shell holder at full ram extension, to get .001"-.002" bump. A 1/4 turn too much inwards is like .016" or something.
I've also switched to the .375 insert for the L'nL headspace gauge. I was using the .400 but it seemed to ride very high on the shoulder.
Somewhere between the chamber, the Lee "Not So Ultimate" die and the insert......I believe lie my reloading woes. Never had this much trouble, been loading long enough I'm not a beginner and I get good results in all calibers....no problems. Only 6.5 CM.
Here ya go. I have both but have never used them so can't comment on their effectiveness. http://www.mountsplus.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=SEARCH&q=primer+pocket+swage
I just put on a CAA tactical interchangeable grip, you can change the inserts to your liking https://usa.caagearup.com/upg16-interchangeable-ar15-m16-pistol-grip
I contacted Ruger today , want to purchase the RPR without the barrel. Want to install a Bartlien barrel and have them do the bolt work for me. Don't know if they will sell it that way? Just don't want to purchase something I won't use unless there is a market for a hammered barrel. I'm looking at the 6.5 if any body would be interested.
Just buy it and after you have installed the Bartlein, sell the OEM barrel. Someone will buy it from you. I highly doubt Ruger will sell a barrel-less rifle to you. They even tell you to remove all non-standard equipment or accessory off your rifle before you send it in for repair. They will take it off, return the rifle to box stock, ship it back once repaired and don't expect to get your parts back.A rifle with no barrel....huge liability potential there.
Ask me how I know? I was on the phone to them today about sending in my 6.5 RPR. Turns out the broken bolt cocking piece is a factory repair item. I have to send the whole damned rifle to them. Shipped it today.
Felt really weird sending my RPR off in a box, in the mail.
Ask me how I know? I was on the phone to them today about sending in my 6.5 RPR. Turns out the broken bolt cocking piece is a factory repair item. I have to send the whole damned rifle to them. Shipped it today.
Felt really weird sending my RPR off in a box, in the mail.
Why is this site so buggy now? Hard to get on, page loads take forever and instead of pages 1-10 so far being individual pages......it's one big looooong page you have to scroll down. And when you post it takes you back to the top of Page 1 of the looooooooong thread. I'm glad it's not part of Scout anymore.....that really sucked. But navigation was easier and page loads quicker. Hope you guys get it sorted.
Anyone else having forum issues?
Anyone else having forum issues?
Click on your screen name at the top of the page. Select user settings. Scroll down the page. The changes you want to make will be there including time zone.
I recall someone else on the old forum that had the same piece break inside of the bolt. If I understand you correctly.
very old you are seeing pressures at those charges. The only thing I can think is that you might not be seating the bullet deep enough and the bullet is jamming into the lands? I use H4350 and 140gr ELD, bump the shoulder .001-.002 and during load development pushed the powder charge as far as 43.3gr when I finally saw some primers creatoring and flattening. Shame to because velocity was in the 3000fps range.
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Thanks for the reply Juggerxxx. I'll tell you brother, earlier on I loaded a few at 43.0 and it was ugly. I shot 3 and stopped. One did okay, one primer blew out and another case was ridiculously hard to extract-got stuck in the bolt and it looked like it had the beginnings of case head separation. That was the end of that drop weight. I expected to see some signs but not like that.
It's not seating depth though, thanks for asking. They are all seated the same as the Hornady, Winchester and AE Match offerings....right around 2.810. I've used the Hornady seating depth gauge with the modified case and while I can't remember the outcome......if I was touching the lands, my bullets would not load into a magazine.
I just ordered the Redding Type-S three die set along with some bushings. Of course the one I want is backordered...the .289. I also ordered the Redding Competition shell holder set so I can do hard bumping. No more with this Lee die though. If anything I will have it machined down to a shorter length and mill out the neck sizing portion and make a body die out of it. But for a while at least, I am done trying to get good hand loads with it. I'm certain it is the culprit.
I'm looking forward to what Ruger finds out about my chamber. I'm certain it is undersize.
When the barrel is wore out I'm going to put a match barrel in there....maybe a Bartlein. At that point I will have the chamber dialed in and even maybe have my dies custom reamed with the same reamer. I might even buy a reamer and keep it after the 'smith has done his magic. I'm looking forward to that, and having the rest of the action dialed in etc.
It's not seating depth though, thanks for asking. They are all seated the same as the Hornady, Winchester and AE Match offerings....right around 2.810. I've used the Hornady seating depth gauge with the modified case and while I can't remember the outcome......if I was touching the lands, my bullets would not load into a magazine.
I just ordered the Redding Type-S three die set along with some bushings. Of course the one I want is backordered...the .289. I also ordered the Redding Competition shell holder set so I can do hard bumping. No more with this Lee die though. If anything I will have it machined down to a shorter length and mill out the neck sizing portion and make a body die out of it. But for a while at least, I am done trying to get good hand loads with it. I'm certain it is the culprit.
I'm looking forward to what Ruger finds out about my chamber. I'm certain it is undersize.
When the barrel is wore out I'm going to put a match barrel in there....maybe a Bartlein. At that point I will have the chamber dialed in and even maybe have my dies custom reamed with the same reamer. I might even buy a reamer and keep it after the 'smith has done his magic. I'm looking forward to that, and having the rest of the action dialed in etc.
A friend of mine ran into the same problem trying to size but he was using a Dillon die which is small base. He cursed those dies - had them jamming the shell plate and still could not resize enough. We checked his chamber (.308 custom rifle) and found that his chamber was nearly .002 under SAAMI min for both neck diameter and headspace. I asked him if he ever had an issue with factory ammo and he told me that some fit "pretty tight". I LMAO. I told him to call the smith and see what he said. The smith sent him a return package for a re chamber and all was well when he got it back. That rifle is a superb shooter now even being reloaded for on his Dillon progressive. It still has a very near minimum chamber but the small base dies will give just a tiny bit of resize. I think he's getting around 10 reloads from factory brass. FWTW
Interesting flyright, thanks. That is actually disturbing for me that a gunsmith would chamber a rifle barrel undersized. Measurements are everything to a machinist. Surely he would have picked that up with go/no go gauges? In the case of mass produced stuff like my RPR 6.5.......I could almost see how a bad few could slip by. I imagine a lot of this stuff is automated and the person loading the parts into the machining equipment is more of an assembly person who perhaps lacks the experience of a gunsmith who hand fits custom barrels etc.
How did you check his chamber? Did you make a chamber cast or measure in place, like I did using a telescoping bore gauge etc.
If my cocking piece had not broken, requiring the rifle to be sent to Ruger, I would have ordered the stuff to do a chamber cast.......or taken my rifle to my gunsmith, who is very, very good.
How did you check his chamber? Did you make a chamber cast or measure in place, like I did using a telescoping bore gauge etc.
If my cocking piece had not broken, requiring the rifle to be sent to Ruger, I would have ordered the stuff to do a chamber cast.......or taken my rifle to my gunsmith, who is very, very good.
I just picked up a Gen2 308 on a whim to hold me over having no luck on a used Crusader. Muzzle brake outta the box crooked as shit, only to find the threads are boogered up and I don't have a tap big enough to clean them up yet. I can't fold the stock completely due to the metal contacting one another at the hinged point. Reckon I should have paid attention and opened the box at the LGS. Haven't got to fire it yet as I'm awaiting my Spuhr to arrive. Minor shit but senseless in my opinion. Hopefully this rifle blows my mind for the money
Figured it out by us chambering some factory rounds - and, as he'd said - very tight. Then we measured some of his fired factory brass - the same that he couldn't resize for that gun. Considering at least some spring back - that fired brass was still nearly .002 under size. I guess he was experimentally fire forming a new, shorter round. The smith was very apologetic after he received the gun and called my friend about it. The smith couldn't explain how it "made it out the door" but had the gun back to him in, I believe, 8 days with a certificate for $250 toward his next barrel. That rifle is one good gun now. F' ups happen so just hope for good customer service.
Have not been in here much, but I have wanted to get in to learning precision long range rifle skills for a long time, Old, retired guy and this rifle has given me the chance to do so. My .308 will be home on Saturday, cant wait. Look forward to learning as much as I can, and having some fun.
You will definitely enjoy it and become addicted very fast. I wish I could get more time to get to the range and shoot my 6.5.
Sweet. You're about to have a good time. I just passed 1100 rounds with my .308 and it's still shooting like new. Love it.
Hey turbodiesel....congrats on your new RPR man...you're gonna love it. Get a good optic to go with it...... unless you have one already.
I'm using the 175 SMK but with Varget
Nosler brass
Federal match primers
45 gr Varget
OAL 2.800"
Its probably the most accurate load I have. It'll shoot 1/2 MOA 5 round groups at 100. put 10 rounds in under an inch all the time. Shot a 1.2" 5 round group at 200 the other day. It's consistently sub MOA at 600. 3rd round X hit at 1000 the one time I've shot this load there. I'm really enjoying it.
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Hi all, I just purchased 6.5 version. What is a good match grade ammo to start.
I was looking at the 140 hornady eld
I was looking at the 140 hornady eld
If you are talking about factory ammo, the Prime is it. Norma brass, so keep it. It shoots the Norma Golden 130 target which the factory barrel likes a lot.
If you want to shoot 140s, I am having good performance with the new Nosler RDF 140 loaded at SAAMI with 41.1gn of 4451. Very accurate, both of them. Of course the, the ELD-X and -M both work great too. Tough choice... -G
Finally chucked my Nosler brass after 10 reloads. It was just starting to get a little inconsistent. Due to the accuracy it produced whether it be short or long range, I already got more. I almost forgot what new brass looks like!
Lefty, I'm curious... In the brass, could you feel any difference when doing the sizing and seating ops, or were target results the only clue?
BTW, you were right about being able to hand load better ammo than factory. I've loaded about 350 rnds for my RPR and my friend's 308. I tried some loads without annealing... it was very revealing, because I found out how inconsistent the factory brass hardness is, and, consequently, neck tension. I annealed the next batch and bingo, neither rifle has ever produced tighter groups. It looks like the Nosler RDF 175 works magic in my friends 308. You should give them a try if you can find any - they are getting like 4350 to find. -G
I had it on my AR15 and really liked it a lot. Quality and so much options for adjustments at a decent price. I'd recommend it
I could definitely feel it in sizing and seating. Some cases I could barely feel the neck resizing at all, and in others I could. Also, I use a micrometer die for seating. After the first press into the die, some would want to sink 10 more thousandths and some would want as much as 23 more thousandths to get to the same depth. I could tell they were gonna shoot like shit before I even went out. I think my neck tension was all over the place. With the new brass, the bullet seated to the same exact depth I had set it to the first press every single time. I would've annealed them but the primer pockets were shitting the bed too.
Im glad to hear your reloading is going well. I've measured and weighed plenty of match ammo to know I could do better. Now is when it starts to get even more addicting! Im definitely going to try those RDF bullets cause my rifle seems to love Nosler and 175gr bullets in particular.
Sweet. Cheaper than dirt has them for $34
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http://www.monmouthreloading.com/sho...modular-stock/
they're on sale for $95 with coupon code. Tax and shipping still nail you though. Need a rifle length buffer tube which is also en route.
they're on sale for $95 with coupon code. Tax and shipping still nail you though. Need a rifle length buffer tube which is also en route.
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Id be on it for that price. I also like that you can buy a bottom rail for it for a monopod
It is home. Thanks for the words, guys. I have fresh Vortex Viper PST 6-24x50 with the EBR-1 MRAD reticle for it, and I am going to try using a mounting system from AADMOUNT engineering I have used before and really like. I need to determine what the right break-in procedure for this barrel is, reading up on that now.
Picking mine up tomorrow. Trying to decide what scope, rings and bipodto go with.
Nice. My SWFA is my first MRAD scope and I love it. I don't think break in is really required for this barrel but I did anyway. Can't hurt.
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