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Still on the fence with my RPR. I would really like a .22 trainer and have a ton of 6.5 stuff on hand that I could sell along with the RPR. But, all but one of my 6.5’s shoot exceptionally well. (as well as the two remaining) This is not a sales pitch, as said, still on the fence. The RPR was keeping up with the big boys on practice stages on Sunday. And, its barrel is supposed to be well past shot out. 6.5 Creedmoor barrels don’t seen to understand the meaning, worn out, can’t shoot accurately or at speed anymore. (both of the PRS rifles it shot agains Sunday are more than triple the cost of what I have invested in the RPR)
Anyway with a new barrel coming in and with the possibility of a Trigger Tech Trigger, a rework of the Cerekoted forearm, and it should be ready for another five years, backing up my others (and with the Carbon barrel, it might even find its way into the deer stand.). Right now, I am seriously thinking it needs to stay in the fold.
Anyway with a new barrel coming in and with the possibility of a Trigger Tech Trigger, a rework of the Cerekoted forearm, and it should be ready for another five years, backing up my others (and with the Carbon barrel, it might even find its way into the deer stand.). Right now, I am seriously thinking it needs to stay in the fold.
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I keep my RPR for friends and family. They get to shoot an accurate rifle that is not worried about.
I think sometimes a shooter just “likes” a rifle for whatever reason makes sense to them or they find it fills a role that rifle fits into well. That’s the case with me at least. I’ve expanded to other higher quality stuff but I keep the RPR’s around because I want to keep fiddling with them to see what they are capable of and make ‘em the best tac drivers I can. For me, I’ve invested into them a bit so I want to see it through.
I love my RPR‘s but if I’m speaking from a strictly financial position where I have to sell one to buy the next project, a RPR does not quite make the most sense.
I don’t plan to offload mine because I don’t need to. I wouldn’t mind trying out some aftermarket barrels for them and see what that does.
Do what makes you happy and enjoy!
Dollar for dollar a Ruger Precision Rifle is probably one of the best values out there. Well constructed, very consistant and with a good optic very accurate. I paid $1250 for mine (in .308) 10 years ago. Just looked on line and the price is relatively the same as back then. Switched it to 6.5 CM and have hit steel at over 1000 yards, but still just fun to shoot. Lots of stuff for after market but a good shooter right out of the box. Haven't ever shot the .22 or the .338 but imagine them to shone also.
Someone wants to learn to shoot precision, this is where I tell them to start.
Someone wants to learn to shoot precision, this is where I tell them to start.
Our local range had a 600 yard benchrest event last winter and a bunch of those guys in the wine and cheese crowd showed up with their $5000+ high dollar 6MM rigs and their SEB NEO front rests. A friend and myself came with our RPR in 6.5 CM and got stuck in the same group as those guys. It was real windy and cold that day and after the first relay, we both finished ahead of over half of those high dollar guys. Several were so mad because they got beat by those "damn tactical" rifles that they left. Nothing is more rewarding than to show up with a factory rifle and hurt guys like that's feelings...LOL!
Purchased my 6.5 in 2017 for $1300. Had one identical in the same gun shop last Friday week for $1569.00. In my opinion, competition has pretty much passed our RPR’s by but…it still remains a great firearm to learn to shoot precision, allows a fellow or lady to upgrade easily or hang on to for a reserve rifle or to have something for friends or relatives to shoot. (As was suggested to me a few days ago and was good advice).
Good rifles at a good price. Ours with 2200 rounds down its barrel was banging steel at over 800 yards as many times as we wanted to hit that target and others at closer ranges as well, just this past Thursday
There has been quite a few copy-cats in the ensuing years. Don’t see them around much anymore. But the RPR keeps hanging on. I believe the reason is that when Ruger was developing they RPR they put a lot of time and effort in the development. The others, seemed to have slapped a chassis onto one of their barreled actions, called it good and wondered why folks weren’t beating a path to their door. I believe there are better “production” class rifles for PRS style competitions today. However, the RPR keeps hanging on, keeps being relevant because its creators put forth the effort to create a rifle that is just plain, Right!
I have a Gen 1 RPR (6.5 Creedmoor) which my son shots (usually very well), however, I would like to upgrade the handguard (already added a muzzle brake and changed the bolt shroud for a titanium version). Therefore, which handguard would you recommend?
Thank you.
Thank you.
I changed mine out to a Seekins and like it. I put a Sawtooth Rifles Arca rail on it and it is like it came that way from the factory.
Not mine but here is what the combo looks like -
Firearms - FS: Completely Decked Out RPR**SOLD**
It’s time to let my RPR go, nothing wrong with it, I just have other priorities. The parts list includes Base rifle: Gen 1 originally chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor Barrel: Krieger M24 contour, 26”, 1:8 twist, muzzle threads 5/8-24, chambered by my gunsmith in 260 Improved Brake: APA LB Gen 2...
www.snipershide.com
Trying to change the barrel on a gen 2. I have the LRI barrel nut wrench. The videos I see are all gen 1 it seems. Does the wrench not work with the gen 2 or does this collar have to come off first in order to slide the LRI over it to get to the teeth? Can’t get the collar off, scratched the crap out of it trying.
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Yes, the wrench with work.
Yes, the collar has to come off first. To get the collar off, did you loosen the nut that hold it on and remove it?
Is that the black piece with the flats to the far left? Can’t get it off. Used a pipe wrench and just removed material from the flat. I guess a box end wrench would be better maybe.
Yes, a box end wrench or a large crescent wrench. Make sure you're tuning it the correct direction (counter clockwise as you face the action).
Thanks, got it off with a large crescent. Glad I got the reaction rod too, took all my strength
Got the receiver off some how. Barrel nut is still on the old barrel and won’t come off. Crazy how tight it is.
I think you can get that barrel nut off and reuse it. The nut on the factory set up is indeed tight, but I think the LRI wrench just isn't up to the task. A couple of things you might try, if you haven't already, is soaking it in WD-40 or apply some heat to the nut to get it to expand a little. I used a different wrench (see pic below) and when I went to replace my factory barrel, I simply used a large rubber mallet on it to break it loose (a somewhat firm flow broke it loose and then the nut came off easy enough).
I don’t know that LrI wrench has very tight mating 360° around the nut. I used some oil and tried hammer blow and a 3ft cheater. I thought the nut kept the receiver secured but I guess that’s not how it works? Receiver unscrewed after several firm blows to the nut. I will try a blow torch I suppose. Really hate to send it in just to get the nut off.
A good reason to always use anti-seize on every barrel nut. I sympathize with the OP. Good luck
Special for me. I really dig the special it's light and crisp enough for my needs.
Though I'm done holding my breath for the TT. I'll probably end up buying a Timney the next time I see one on sale.
For barrel replacement the Magpul Armorer's Wrench has been up to the task, it also has a 1/2 torque wrench/breaker bar interface that helps aid in removal. A gunsmith buddy has busted a couple of other wrenches trying to remove that barrel nut.
As a followup on the issue I had with the receiver bolt lug scratching my 243 AI brass, the Cratex polishing bits GordoNV recommended worked well.
Barely had to touch the lug with the fine polish bit in my dremel tool.
Barely had to touch the lug with the fine polish bit in my dremel tool.
This was at the Guardian Shoot at Lake City Michigan last month. I love my Ruger.
LRI took my old barrel off for free and I put my new one on with their wrench. Had a 6mm cm criterion from brownells I bought a few years ago. Loading 107 smk and h4831sc, shooting six 5 shot groups, SD’s ranged from 5 to 22. Group sizes ranged from .35 MOA to 0.9 MOA. The SD of 5 fps was 42.3 grains and 0.6 MOA so I think I’ll go with that. 4/5 shots were in .3 MOA on that one. The .35 MOA 5 shot group had the worst SD.
The chambering was difficult with a bullet but the brass is new and chambers easily without a bullet so even at 2.85” coal I may be in the lands. Plan on seating a little deeper. Blew a primer at 43.8 which is a grain lower than published max…
The chambering was difficult with a bullet but the brass is new and chambers easily without a bullet so even at 2.85” coal I may be in the lands. Plan on seating a little deeper. Blew a primer at 43.8 which is a grain lower than published max…
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Hi all, I hope you can help me out.
I like to know what the thread size is for the 3 allen head bolts on the RPR
The rear bolt is a little bit rough so I want to run a tap through it to clean it up.
As it is hard to find any shops that sell non-metric taps in the Netherlands so I can compare the thread on the bolt with the tap. I want to order one on line but have no clue on the tap size.
Thanks in advance!!
I like to know what the thread size is for the 3 allen head bolts on the RPR
The rear bolt is a little bit rough so I want to run a tap through it to clean it up.
As it is hard to find any shops that sell non-metric taps in the Netherlands so I can compare the thread on the bolt with the tap. I want to order one on line but have no clue on the tap size.
Thanks in advance!!
My guess is they are either 1/4-20 or 1/4-28 (I haven't dissassembled my RPR in a few years).
If you have a set of calipers, measure the diameter of the bolt...it should be at or just under 0.2500" (6.35mm). If you don't have calipers, measure with a ruler...the difference from 1/4" and the next size up or down will be obvious.
Then measure the distance between the peaks of two adjacent threads...20 TPI will be about 0.050" (a litttle more than a millimeter) and 28 will be about 0.036" (or a little less than a millimeter).
Without taking mine apart, this is the best I can do to help...maybe someone else will chime in...
Hope this helps...
So did you ever get it free? Dumb question, but you're turning it clockwise (as seen from the muzzle), right, not still trying to unscrew it counterclockwise? If by some chance, you're going counterclockwise it's just going to have jammed against the collar on the barrel. It needs to come off the breech end, not the muzzle.
I ordered them in Germany (I'm from the Netherlands myself) and ran it through the thread. It cleaned up fine and was done in 2 minutes. Thanks again.
I am sure this has been discussed, but for anyone who has replaced the stock with a Magpul PRS, how do you like it?
I am considering it, but all the pictures I see look like the cheek piece is pretty far back from the scope, at least when the scope is mounted in what would be considered a "normal" position.
How is eye relief & cheek weld, and did you have to move your scope to the rear at all?
I am considering it, but all the pictures I see look like the cheek piece is pretty far back from the scope, at least when the scope is mounted in what would be considered a "normal" position.
How is eye relief & cheek weld, and did you have to move your scope to the rear at all?
I tried one. Fully collapsed LOP was way to long for my liking. Left me bladed off to the side while in prone.
Someone here did a write up how to chop it and shorten it to fix that issue.
Thanks for the reply. I am not as worried about LOP, but all the pictures I see, the shooter has their cheek on the front edge of the cheek piece. I guess it has to be that far back for the charging handle/bolt.
What size torx wrench is needed to remove the retaining pin for the trigger mechanism? It is really small.
It has been a while since I had my trigger out but all I remember is an allen bolt at the front?
I have the Gen 3 and there is a torx on the safety selector and the trigger removal pin.
Hi, I’m brand new to precision shooting and know nothing at all.
I have a Ruger Precision Rifle in .308, all stock. I just ordered an Athlon Cronus Btr 4.5-29x56mm with a 34mm tube.
According to the Ruger website, my rifle has a “20 MOA Picatinny rail secured with #8-40 screws”.
Can anyone tell me what ring size I need and I’m open to reccomendations. I was highly considering Seekins. Thanks in advance!
I have a Ruger Precision Rifle in .308, all stock. I just ordered an Athlon Cronus Btr 4.5-29x56mm with a 34mm tube.
According to the Ruger website, my rifle has a “20 MOA Picatinny rail secured with #8-40 screws”.
Can anyone tell me what ring size I need and I’m open to reccomendations. I was highly considering Seekins. Thanks in advance!
I’m running 1.26 Vortex PMR rings on mine with a Vortex Gen 2 Razor 4.5-27x56 with Aadmount Caps and everything is just the right clearance.
Old super high AR rings tend to be in the 1.4 range. That is what I started with but I ended up with a 1.5 extended unimount to get the scope further forward. I needed it further forward for shooting slung up prone. Directly behind the rifle on a bipod the scope does not need to go forward.
Keep in mind when that the optic rail is basically on top of the stock. If you go too low you will lose the comb adjustment.
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