Ruger Precision Rifle Discussion

#301
pell1203 said:
The factory muzzle brake on my Gen II RPR is mounted slightly crooked and i'd like to straighten it out if not a big deal. It only needs to be tightened about 5 degrees to be straight.

Question, Is the factory muzzle brake on the RPR a two piece design (brake and nut separate) or all one monolithic assembly?

If you have had to realign yours, was it as simple as loosening the nut, rotating the front portion of the brake 5 degrees to straighten, and then re-tightening the nut (i. e., two-piece design). Or is the nut and brake all one assembly and I need to try to turn the nut and muzzle brake another 5 degrees by simply tightening the nut?

For what it's worth, I can see there is still a bit of space remaining between the base of the nut and the shoulder of the barrel so it should be able to turn tighter... unless I am thread limited and it physically cannot be turned anymore.

What say you?
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You've prolly figured this out already. You're on the right track. It's easy and not easy..Easy part: Put the barrel in a vise; get a long steel punch or screwdriver that fit through the middle holes in the brake body, put a 7/8" wrench on the jam nut. Now the Not Easy part, at least as far as other muzzle devices I've R&R'd: the nut can be super tight against the brake body. I'm talkin' lug nut tight. Heat the brake, nut, and end of barrel with a heat gun or torch until too hot to touch. You'll use the punch or screwdriver in the brake body to apply loosening torque while simultaneously turning the jam nut in the opposite direction, as if you were tightening it onto the barrel. Reverse directions with the punch and wrench and the nut will literally SNAP when the threads let go, There was no threadlocker on mine just a ton of preload, I estimate 50lb-ft to break the nut loose. Take the jam nut and brake body off, degrease the threads, reassemble with Rocksett or similar; it'll be easier to keep the brake properly aligned, or "clocked", while you tighten the jam nut. Interestingly enough, Ruger sells this brake on their website and the oroduct pic gives you an idea of how it goes together:


http://shopruger.com/searchprods.asp

 
#302
ZenBiker990 said:
You've prolly figured this out already. You're on the right track. It's easy and not easy..Easy part: Put the barrel in a vise; get a long steel punch or screwdriver that fit through the middle holes in the brake body, put a 7/8" wrench on the jam nut. Now the Not Easy part, at least as far as other muzzle devices I've R&R'd: the nut can be super tight against the brake body. I'm talkin' lug nut tight. Heat the brake, nut, and end of barrel with a heat gun or torch until too hot to touch. You'll use the punch or screwdriver in the brake body to apply loosening torque while simultaneously turning the jam nut in the opposite direction, as if you were tightening it onto the barrel. Reverse directions with the punch and wrench and the nut will literally SNAP when the threads let go, There was no threadlocker on mine just a ton of preload, I estimate 50lb-ft to break the nut loose. Take the jam nut and brake body off, degrease the threads, reassemble with Rocksett or similar; it'll be easier to keep the brake properly aligned, or "clocked", while you tighten the jam nut. Interestingly enough, Ruger sells this brake on their website and the oroduct pic gives you an idea of how it goes together:


http://shopruger.com/searchprods.asp
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ZenBiker, thanks for your reply. I did see your other post on this issue and halfheartedly tried to straighten mine out. You are right! It definitively was gorilla-ed on there!

My latest thoughts are to just leave it as is till I decide on a suppressor. Between making the decision and adding the government wait time it will be at least a year, By then I'd probably be looking to replace the barrel and won't be needing a barrel vise, just a pipe wrench! ;) :cool:
 
#303
Pelli funny you should mention a pipe wrench. I scratched the hell out of my barrel and brake with your exact issue only with a standard wrench and no barrel vise. The brake was canted and I can't deal with that nonsense. I couldn't budge the lock nut and ended up loosening the brake and locknut together. It was extremely tight. My brake is sitting in the safe off of the rifle right now awaiting further damage while I attempt to separate the lock nut from the brake body as Zen had explained.
 
#304
JRM, I would have thought the brake and nut would be easy to separate. Sounds like you backed both of them out as one unit. Just surprised once it all started moving forward you could not pop them using the punch/wrench to snap apart. The picture on Ruger's website was helpful in determining how it goes together... maybe not so clear on how it comes apart. :rolleyes:

The concern on mine is that it appears the nut is as far back as it can go on the barrel and that Ruger may have just tightened the nut first against the barrel and then put a lot of foot-pounds on the brake trying to get it straight. Even then, I think as much as they wanted to tighten the brake, they just had to give up a few degrees short!

I guess what I mean to say is I am not really sure the jam nut is being used as a jam nut!
 
#305
I've got a question. I have about 3 different loads that I'm currently playing with. My most accurate one being, as I've mentioned before, 45gr Varget with a 175gr SMK bullet. I see no signs of pressure on the brass or primers. So, just how much faster would I really be wearing my barrel with a hot load like that? It also likes 43.2gr, but 45 seems to be the best.
 
#306
LongRangeLefty said:
I've got a question. I have about 3 different loads that I'm currently playing with. My most accurate one being, as I've mentioned before, 45gr Varget with a 175gr SMK bullet. I see no signs of pressure on the brass or primers. So, just how much faster would I really be wearing my barrel with a hot load like that? It also likes 43.2gr, but 45 seems to be the best.
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Dude .308 barrels last forever. Try this http://www.accurateshooter.com/techn...l-barrel-life/

i got 2516 rounds for your scenario for 45gr of Varget, 3195 at 43.2 so about 700 rounds
 
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#307
Nice! Wasn't expecting to get an actual round estimate, but I'll take it. Thanks. That's one of the reasons I went with the .308. I just didn't want to make that decision pointless by shooting it out MUCH faster
 
#310
Guys a question for you all. I just got my 6.5 RPR back from Ruger. They replaced the barrel and the bolt cocking piece and while there I had them install the Gen II hand guard. It is not the same color as my rifle. My RPR is jet black and this guard is a very dark grey but unless I coat it with oil and wipe it off...... it has this blotchy look like somebody ran their hand over it after powdering up for a pool shot. The only way I can explain it is the thing looks dry! It will eventually absorb any cleaning oil and look dry again. Coating/finish seems very thin.

Can anyone with a Gen II RPR comment on the coating on your hand guard. Thanks.
 
#313
Fumbly said:
Guys a question for you all. I just got my 6.5 RPR back from Ruger. They replaced the barrel and the bolt cocking piece and while there I had them install the Gen II hand guard. It is not the same color as my rifle. My RPR is jet black and this guard is a very dark grey but unless I coat it with oil and wipe it off...... it has this blotchy look like somebody ran their hand over it after powdering up for a pool shot. The only way I can explain it is the thing looks dry! It will eventually absorb any cleaning oil and look dry again. Coating/finish seems very thin.

Can anyone with a Gen II RPR comment on the coating on your hand guard. Thanks.
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Just cerakote it all.
 
#315
Fumbly said:
Thank you for that nugget!
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You asked for it? I don't know why you would have them change it to the gen 2, unless you were looking for a cheap upgrade? There are better options out there on the open market. I've never take anyones comments seriously unless your talking about the rifles shooting performance. I like looking at my rifle as much as the next guy, but I don't get on the forum to complain about shade differences in color and I'm a painter by profession. I'd call someone who cares, Ruger, to have it fixed or paint it yourself. I also don't take myself that seriously. When the Ruger RPR rolled out people couldn't get over how the barrel wasn't centered in the hand guard, but it still shot the lights out. I'd like to think we are a community of shooters, not whiners or complainers. Regardless, if it made you laugh, that was my initial point! Shoot on Brother, warts and all.
 
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#316
I get what Ian is saying, but at the same time, if most people bought a new truck and the paint job was all fucked up they wouldn't just say eh, it still functions fine. Assuming he has an actual problem, part of the money he spent on that rifle went towards the finish, and I'd want it looking sexy ;) JMO
 
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#317
Fumbly said:
Guys a question for you all. I just got my 6.5 RPR back from Ruger. They replaced the barrel and the bolt cocking piece and while there I had them install the Gen II hand guard. It is not the same color as my rifle. My RPR is jet black and this guard is a very dark grey but unless I coat it with oil and wipe it off...... it has this blotchy look like somebody ran their hand over it after powdering up for a pool shot. The only way I can explain it is the thing looks dry! It will eventually absorb any cleaning oil and look dry again. Coating/finish seems very thin.

Can anyone with a Gen II RPR comment on the coating on your hand guard. Thanks.
Click to expand...

Rattle can it. Did my handguard, lower, and stock for $4. Still have half a can left. I know it will wear with use but I personally like a used look. Mine won't sit in the safe to look good and the price some people charge to cerekote is ridiculous. Just my $.02
 
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#318
Fumbly said:
Guys a question for you all. I just got my 6.5 RPR back from Ruger. They replaced the barrel and the bolt cocking piece and while there I had them install the Gen II hand guard. It is not the same color as my rifle. My RPR is jet black and this guard is a very dark grey but unless I coat it with oil and wipe it off...... it has this blotchy look like somebody ran their hand over it after powdering up for a pool shot. The only way I can explain it is the thing looks dry! It will eventually absorb any cleaning oil and look dry again. Coating/finish seems very thin.

Can anyone with a Gen II RPR comment on the coating on your hand guard. Thanks.
Click to expand...

My Gen 2 had the same issue, as well as the hand guard being slightly off-center, and the muzzle brake being canted. I guessed mine was assembled on a Friday afternoon. Call me anal, obsessive, whatever, but I like my machines to be perfect. I don't expect anything to come from a manufacturer, at any price, to meet my standards. That is why my cars, motorcycles, guns, and other things that matter get thoroughly inspected and corrected as soon as I get them home. You'd be surprised at the flaws I have found. So I tore down the rifle and put it back together with everything properly torqued and aligned. I oiled the hand guard and of course, the coating on it soaked up the initial coat. But after a few trips to the range, subsequent cleanings and oiling, it has the same appearance of the rest of the rifle.

In the end, it may not matter how it looks, only how it performs. But I have found that how it (anything) performs is a reflection of the level of care it receives, which is often evident by how it looks. This is why Marines are obsessive about the maintenance of equipment, the proper wearing of the uniform and the fitness and training of the mind and body.
 
#319
^ Couldn't have said it better. Although Like Hardpan, I don't mind a slightly used look (I stress slightly), I believe whether it be a rifle or anything else, appearance as well as function can display how well it's been cared for.
 
#320
I recently replaced my brake and hand guard and I had a hard time with the barrel nut and insert. I wrapped the barrel nut with a few layers of painters tape and ended up using a two foot pipe wrench, the nut and insert came off together and are still that way lol.

The brake was much easier. As for the brake and nut, they do not attach to one another, just butt against each other, if they came off together I would think a few whacks with a rubber mallet would knock them loose.

 
#321
Just joined and this is my first post here. I picked up a Gen II in 6.5 last week and went out Saturday to break it in. I am very dedicated to a break in for ANY rifle, have been doing so for more than 50 years and have always achieved great results. 1 X 5, 5 X 5, 10 X 7 = 100 rounds, full cleaning after each set with a jag and Butch's bore shine. The copper that came from the 6.5 barrel tells me that it really did need a proper break in. The first of the ten round sets produced solid bright blue patches, lots of copper. By the time I got to the last set of ten, copper had subsided to a very light mild pastel color, telling me the barrel was smoothing out. Along with that, the groups got really tight. The link to the progress pics is https://photos.google.com/share/AF1...?key=WDhwTS1FU21hcENSMGprWkJreFNLUVZqMU1KNlFB

TgtGfx-01.jpgTgtGfx-03.jpgTgtGfx-07.jpgTgtGfx-08.jpgTgtGfx-09.jpgTgtGfx-10.jpg
 

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#323
While breaking in I used a Rem 700 bore guide (Possum Hollow). It worked, but was a very loose. I contacted Possum Hollow via telephone - (Call 321-338-7757 and ask for Eric). The #313 is for the 308 parent case rifles. It is not in the dealer distribution chain yet, but they will ship direct to the user for 25.00 each. Mine is on the way!
 
#324
Griz44Mag said:
Just joined and this is my first post here. I picked up a Gen II in 6.5 last week and went out Saturday to break it in. I am very dedicated to a break in for ANY rifle, have been doing so for more than 50 years and have always achieved great results. 1 X 5, 5 X 5, 10 X 7 = 100 rounds, full cleaning after each set with a jag and Butch's bore shine. The copper that came from the 6.5 barrel tells me that it really did need a proper break in. The first of the ten round sets produced solid bright blue patches, lots of copper. By the time I got to the last set of ten, copper had subsided to a very light mild pastel color, telling me the barrel was smoothing out. Along with that, the groups got really tight. The link to the progress pics is https://photos.google.com/share/AF1...?key=WDhwTS1FU21hcENSMGprWkJreFNLUVZqMU1KNlFB

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Very cool to see the progression like that! Thank you. Never been very big on the cleaning rituals during breakin myself. It would appear you and the rifle are damn good shooters. Awesome groups at 200 yards.
 
#325
Juggerxxx said:
Very cool to see the progression like that! Thank you. Never been very big on the cleaning rituals during breakin myself. It would appear you and the rifle are damn good shooters. Awesome groups at 200 yards.
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I don't do anything on good barrels. But factory barrels I usually do a little break in. On my RPR I decided to do nothing. After about 40 rounds it started working itself out. By 100 it was good to go.
 
#326
This was my first group at 100 with the 6.5. The high right was the first shot ever at 100 with this rifle; followed by a 5 round group after adjustment, measuring .71". Those were rounds 6-10 from the rifle. No break in process.
 

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#329
PhOnEpHrEaK said:
just got it back from him a few minutes ago. According to him the rifle is perfect, the base is perfect and the rings were only .0005" difference.

He thinks if anything is wrong it is the scope. But couldn't find any problems there either.
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Pretty much what I thought. Scope is fine as well. Only issue is the total turret travel. Get a 20MOA unimount and use it instead of rings. Should help u recover some of that lost travel. You would have a 40 MOA base now.
 
#334
TacticalDillhole said:
Pretty much what I thought. Scope is fine as well. Only issue is the total turret travel. Get a 20MOA unimount and use it instead of rings. Should help u recover some of that lost travel. You would have a 40 MOA base now.
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+1 for a 20moa mount and base for 40 total. Going that route with a amg. Should be able to use all of the turret except for a couple mils. At least that's what I got through research
 
#335
WickedDaddy said:
I oiled the hand guard and of course, the coating on it soaked up the initial coat. But after a few trips to the range, subsequent cleanings and oiling, it has the same appearance of the rest of the rifle.
Click to expand...

Thanks WD. Yes, I had also tried to run some oil in a few spots when I initially got the rifle back and exactly the same thing happened....it just soaked it up. Ruger is taking care of me on this issue and out of respect ........ and since it is an ongoing situation, I'm not going to discuss things further at this time. It's a long story anyway.

My rifle gets used, it's no safe queen. I don't freak out when a firearm get's a scratch etc, not like some people I know. It sucks and one tries to ensure it does not happen. I just like to take care of my shit, I always have. If my rifle gets dinged while I'm using it ...oh well.....that's messed up...move on......but it's also better if it stays nice looking. And 100% on the performance as relates to how it is looked after and maintained.

I will say that Ruger CS has been awesome.

Grizz44Mag ....... nice grouping at 200Y and especially nice watching those groups tighten up as you went.

 
#336
I appreciate the comments and responses. I have used a break in process since I watched my grandfather do that on a new rifle (somewhere South of 1960) and had such a deep respect for him and his natural ability with a rifle that I have always followed suite. After meeting Dan Lilja and being exposed to his philosophy on breaking in a barrel, my dedication to a break in routine was re-enforced. Dan makes some of the finest barrels I have ever purchased. I built a 6.5 Creedmoor on a Bushmaster Gen 1 receiver using his LFAR 1" target barrel. It's a shooter and will hold .6-1 MOA. For an old semi-auto that really impressed me. I have two more of his barrels on bolt guns. His recommendation on breaking in his hand lapped barrels is pretty much the same as how I do mine, except he reccomends the use of a bronze brush. I don't use them except in extreme cases. http://riflebarrels.com/support/centerfire-maintenance/ Breaking in a hand lapped barrel is normally much quicker and the copper deposits taper off much quicker. The factory Ruger barrel on the Precision was chewing the copper off the jackets at a pretty heavy clip. Copper in the throat that has not been evenly deposited is an issue. I have spent time recovering several Rem 700s from close friends that had great shooters they did not clean. When they went South on accuracy, I got a hold of them and got the copper out. I have almost always been able to save a coppered up barrel. Your rifle may shoot great now after a few hundred rounds, but I'll bet it goes sour a lot quicker than it should.
Phonefreak did you take a close look at the throat on your new rifle before you shot it? I have a hunch that it was not "factory new" and had been shot previously. Not a bad thing, since the initial break in may have already happened. I have been present when 4 other Ruger precision 6.5 rifles were "commissioned". Every one of them took 40-50 rounds before they started settling down. Mine was no exception, and responded exactly like the rest of them. Just curious.
Fumbly, I too had some piebalding on the finish of my new rifle. Light and dark patches. I was not concerned and it is not an issue for me. I intend to have it cerekoted with a cammo pattern before hunting season this year. I thought it was just dry from packing and shipping. I sprayed it down with REM oil and most of it went away.
All said, I have been very pleased with the rifle. The only thing I intend to deal with in the next few weeks is to replace that awful buttstock with something that does not tear my hands up and that will slide on a bag. Ruger gets an A+ on looks, but an F- on function. That stock has got to GOOOOO. Anyone have an old style Magpul PRS they want to move? I like the older ones better than the new Gen III.

Griz44Mag

 
#340
Griz44Mag said:
The only thing I intend to deal with in the next few weeks is to replace that awful buttstock with something that does not tear my hands up and that will slide on a bag. Ruger gets an A+ on looks, but an F- on function. That stock has got to GOOOOO.

Griz44Mag
Click to expand...

The Luth AR MBA1 stock is great....very happy since I installed it. Less than half the cost of the Magpul.

http://www.monmouthreloading.com/shop/luth-ar-mba-1-modular-stock/ On sale here around $95. You need a rifle length buffer tube.
 

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#341
Fumbly said:
I did not...thought about it. Why, did yours come loose or you just did it or are thinking about doing it from a preventative maintenance POV?
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I've always put loctite on my base screws for my 700's didn't know if ruger installed their bases like that or not. I guess I could always just do it as preventive maintenance. I'm still debating on a mount for my amg. To spuhr or not to spuhr, 0 moa or 20 moa mount. I only can get out to 1000 yards atm but there is a 1500 spot in the future, just can't take my 308 that far... I'm not that good and don't load my own rounds
 
#343
LongRangeLefty said:
^ I can only shoot out to 1000 and the 20 MOA base was enough for my .308 and SWFA SS. I'd add more for 1500
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I've talked with a lot of amg owners and what Ive got from them is that most have around 20 mils of usable elevation out of the 28 mil turret using a 20moa base only. It should be able to get me out to 1500 but that's at the end of the turret.
 
#344
^ That should about do it even if you have to hold over slightly. With the load I'm using now my ballistic calculator shows I'd reach 1500 at 21.6 mils. A 20 MOA mount would help but you could still do it
 
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#347
Hardpan said:
Is that for a 308? You have have some good loads!! That's awesome
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At that distance it's probably more my app. I am loading at max charge though. I'm at 600 at just under 4 mils and at 1000 at about 10. Based on those POI's it looks like I'm getting around 2800 fps
 
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