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Does anyone if it’s possible to swap one of the regular short action calibers (.308 Win, 6.5CM, Etc.) to 5.56mm?
I’m not sure what size differences if any are in the frame. I know they use 5.56mm AI Mags. And for sure you’d have to swap bolt heads (probably the whole bolt) which I’m not even sure where to find one.
That all being said, if a guy could find a 5.56mm Bolt, a 5.56mm AI Magazine and a barrel, could you swap from .308 Win to 5.56mm?
I’m not sure what size differences if any are in the frame. I know they use 5.56mm AI Mags. And for sure you’d have to swap bolt heads (probably the whole bolt) which I’m not even sure where to find one.
That all being said, if a guy could find a 5.56mm Bolt, a 5.56mm AI Magazine and a barrel, could you swap from .308 Win to 5.56mm?
My factory barrel actually shot pretty well. It’s just toast now and need a replacement. I was hoping with the amount of people on here I could get some advise on what aftermarket barrel may work better than others shooting factory 130’s.
PVA (Patriot Valley Arms) uses Rock Creek barrels and I think they have a sale going on now. Check out their facebook page for a coupon code.
Thanks ,Yes I do reload and using CCI 400. I may just try `the 450 thanks again
I’m sorry, I gotta ask. I’m about 90 minutes outside NYC, so I know my seasons f’ed. How are you guys able to shoot so much during the outbreak? Just out of curiosity
I saw Forbes has canceled the April matches hopefully May and the rest of the season happens
I shoot in my back yard. It's always closed to the public, open for me 
I recently purchased a LRI 26", 1-8 twist barrel, plus little bastard brake and seeekins forend. My RPR is a 1st gen, 6.5 CM with aJard 20 ounce trigger and Magpul PRS stock. Due to medical problems and covid19, haven't got to shoot it yet. Really looking forward to getting on the range.
Just finished upgrading my RPR. One little watch out, when you get your barrel made, make sure the Max OD after the threads is 1” or check the max OD before buying a handguard. Mine came in a little big at 1.014” and it no longer fit the standard handguard or one from Seekins (1.008” ID on Barrel nut). I had to get one from Midwest Industries to get it to fit. Minor issues but things to keep in mind when doing a barrel swap!
What Ruger gen handguard do you have? Who made the barrel and what contour is it?
It’s a Midwest industries 15” handguard. They are actually discontinued so I got extremely lucky to buy one while Brownells still has inventory (last week). Barrel is a 26” 1:10twist heavy Palma from Patriot Valley Arms. I gotta say Joe is top notch over there and was great at replying and helping me along the way. I did my barrel swap myself (first time) and it was extremely easy. I’m just going crazy not being able to go to the range -_-
I just got a marksman 6.5 from pva. Joe and Josh were a big help in getting the barrel I wanted. What Ruger handguard did you have? What gen model rifle did you have?
I had a stock handguard but purchased a seekins precision one for the build. Neither fit per the sizes mentioned earlier so I got the Midwest. Rifle is a gen 3, bought it last year in August.
Thanks! I have a gen 2 and I believe the barrel nut and handguard nut has a bigger inner diameter to allow for the 1.25 contour. Someone correct if I’m wrong.
I have an gen 1 RPR in .308 and after about 12 hundred rounds the bolt lift has gotten way heavier.
Is this the result of a dirty action? Or what can I do to fix it.
Thanks.
Is this the result of a dirty action? Or what can I do to fix it.
Thanks.
I would disassemble the bolt and clean it. I noticed the same on mine after about 1,000 rounds and a thorough cleaning did the trick. I also regreased everything thoroughly. If that does not do the trick, you can always get a replacement billet cocking piece on Anarchy Outdoors for it that will lighten the lift. It’s relatively cheap the there are sales right now.
I had heard this too on more than one account, so I got one and installed it. It did NOT lighten the lift off my bolt. So, for me, it was a waist of money to that end.
So here is my take on the two rifles that seem to be hot right now...
Some of this is geared towards inexperienced shooters but the accuracy part is also in the video.
I agree. Although I have to add that when I changed my cocking piece I didn’t noticed any difference in the bolt lift or going into battery. Even after I talked with Andrew about the issues I was having. I think the big ticket is cleaning and regreasing the cocking cams with quality firearm specific grease and greasing the back of the lugs. You’d be surprised how unclean (machined) the rear of the action is and have seen guys bolt lugs have pretty severe grooves caused by friction due to no lubrication on the lugs. The lack of grease and grooves made to the lugs increased the effort needed to run the bolt.
Not really a waste since it didn’t help running the bolt. What you gained was durability and confidence that running your bolt over time won’t break the cocking piece. Andrews is CNC ‘d or milled billet and great quality. I feel and think Rugers is cast molded, although I’m not sure about that. Rugers fail in the area where Andrew made his more beefy. Hope this helps
Tikka’s are great. My buddy has a Tac A1 and it’s a hammer. Action is like butter but their barrels are notoriously slow. If you can deal with factory 140’s needing over 10 Mils at 1000 yards(10.2-10.5 is what he needs) then I suggest a tikka all the way. My factory RPR barrel though was running 140 Hornady at avg 2720. His tikka barrel avg was barely 2600, maybe 2620 with the same bullet. I like speed so I shoot 130s. Once I get my PVA barrel on my RPR I hope to get 2900 with factory federal gm with 130 Berger’s.
On a side note it’s fairly simple nowadays to get a match barrel from a smith, headspace and get the speed you’d want on a tikka. The aftermarket is making a lot more options for tikkas
Sorry as I rambled on about centerfire. Got home an hour ago from work and hit the bottle a little ?
, Long day. My Ruger rimfire shot ok, maybe .8-1.3 inch at 50 yards, even after playing with about 12 different types of ammo including multiple eley variances. I then bought an ER Shaw 20 inch stainless barrel and everything changed. I can now shoot .2 inch groups all day at 50 yards with cci sv. As for the tikka well they shoot great out of the box. I chose the Ruger to be my trainer to my RPR centerfire especially since you can adjust the bolt throw to be the same as the centerfire. Cheers and stay safe!
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I was very disappointed with the RPRR until I found SK Plus...Sorry as I rambled on about centerfire. Got home an hour ago from work and hit the bottle a little ?
Given many 22lrs are notoriously picky, the Ruger seemed to be no different.
It will shoot CCI Standard, Fed HV Match and SK the best.
The Tikka is close, but generally shoots most ammo "slightly" better.
As stated in my review, the Ruger is so nice because of all of the features, yet accuracy has to be the main one for most of us.
Testing these Ruger rifles.
So far the Precision Rimfire accuracy has been surprisingly good, and that rifle would be a killer, if it would have better chassis.
Free float alloy hand guard and trigger+action are nice, but that rear stock+chassis is not made for adult.
Plastic is not the material i like.
Is there any chassis made for Ruger rimfire precision?
So far the Precision Rimfire accuracy has been surprisingly good, and that rifle would be a killer, if it would have better chassis.
Free float alloy hand guard and trigger+action are nice, but that rear stock+chassis is not made for adult.
Plastic is not the material i like.
Is there any chassis made for Ruger rimfire precision?
Just picked one of these up, along with a friend who purchased a Tikka T3X Tac A1. I've done the bipod, bolt shroud, cocking piece and added a Sig Tango4 6-24x50. Loving it so far! We also both have suppressors coming because it's an addiction, i guess. Both rifles will shoot sub moa with little effort and cheap factory ammo. They both seem to really love the cheap S&B FMJ stuff at short (100yd) range, so we've been burning that up and collecting the brass to work on reloads. Very promising, and a ton of fun for sure! Can't wait to get out to 900yds next month.
Have a Gen 2 6 creedmoor that is starting to give me fits on ejection. Never had a issue until just recently. Not great on round count keeping but the bolt probably has 700 rounds give or take on it. Replaced the factory barrel with a LRI pretty quickly after purchase. Curious if anyone else’s has had issues with a 6 or 6.5 Creedmoor ejection. It’s starting to just dump rounds in the chamber. Some pieces dump when running bolt fast or slow. Some seem to be more prone when not real aggressive with the bolt. But still have some that do it no mater how hard I run the bolt. Cleaned up the bolt made sure nothing under the extractor. Extractor looks good. Ejector looks normal and freely moves up and down. Initially thought maybe I got to overzealous with bolt lube. But that wasn’t it. Then seemed like a certain lot of Hornady brass was the issue. But now it does it sometimes even with Alpha brass. Although it does seem less with Alpha or Peterson. I find some pieces that do it and I can get it to dump them over and over then all of a sudden the same pieces will start to eject fine. Running some practice stages the other night drove me nuts. I use it as a back up match rifle but at the moment have no faith in running it in a match. Thoughts or ideas?
Could the brass be worn where the extractor hooks it? Maybe try new brass and see what it does? I’m grasping at straws but what popped into my head.
It was with all new brass. That was my initial hope as well was just a lot of bad brass. And for a while it seemed to be true. But this morning I was playing around with some new Alpha brass and after about 20 pieces got a few to do the same thing. With the Alpha it does seem less often, especially if I run the bolt pretty brisk. I’m assuming now it’s something with the extractor.
I've suspected that some of our ejection issues may come from a form of 'hydraulic-lock' with the pin type systems. Think about it, spring loaded pins get pushed into the bolt face with accumulated lube that can't let air back in behind fast enough to function properly. I made certain this wouldn't happen by disassembling my RPR bolt and drilling a small 3/32" hole in the side of the bolt at the bottom of the ejector pin/spring well.
2nd barrel swap complete. Thanks to mmlook for the barrel. Excited to see the results....
.....and I'm pretty happy with the results.....
the only single stage trigger I know of is Jard. I don't know how "decent" it is.
Timney makes an excellent trigger for it (I have one), just nothing for the single stage guys.
I don't own a JARD yet but I've looked into it and researched some reviews. The problem I have is the trigger that came on my Gen 1 RPR is pretty good.
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