Ruger SFAR small frame 308, 6.8 pounds

For a SHTF rifle would I be better off just buying the 16" or getting the 20" and cutting it down?

I figure the rifle length gas system would be easier on the bolt but would it reliably cycle whatever I might have to use for ammo?
Full time suppressor host or no ?

I'm curious about chopping a 20" myself. I think it should still work fine with the gas wide open and it would be better with a can.

One of the videos of a 16" suppressed still looked to be chunking brass in the 2:30-3 o'clock range but from what people say there seems to be little or no gas in the face so is there really a need to cut a 20 down or is it just my own personal preference to make it easier on the gun and the brass ?

I'm on the fence as far as 16" or 20"
If I buy a 16 and don't like the way it is suppressed I can sell it. If I buy a 20 and Chop it and it doesn't work out I'm stuck with it. Or it goes back to ruger for a new tube. Or I rob its barrel extension and it gets a custom barrel. Decisions decisions.
 
if you're going to qualify it as such, "reliably cycle whatever I might have to use for ammo", then you've sort of answered your own question, right?
If the question answered itself then I would not have asked.

I do not have any experience with gas gun beyond 5.56. I also have never used an adjustable gas block.
 
Friend brought out his 20” today. First outing in less than pleasant conditions (mid 20’s, wind at our 6-7 o’clock at 20-25 mph).

I’ll just report on the shooting results as I think build quality, dimensions, etc... have been covered.

Rough 100 yd zero with Win 147 ball. I’d estimate 1.5 MOA with that ammo. Fed offering with 150 gr Nosler stayed right at 1 MOA. And finally, Fed GMM 175 SMK was a solid 0.75 MOA.

Trigger was doable with a bit of creep. I’d estimate it at 3 lb ish. Recoil impulse was surprisingly light with the ball and 150 Nosler. Definite change when we switched to the FGMM, but, still soft considering the weight of the system. Brake is loud (which one isn’t) seems to help. He had the gas system set on 3 as per the manufacturers recommendation. Right near the end, we had 1 FTF and then a fall to lock back. This was with FGMM. Optic was a fixed 10x Bushnell.

We did have 2/3 IPSC steel set at 260 yards which head shots were fairly easy in spite of the conditions.

Overall, it feels like an AR15, good value for the $$$, shoots fine, and would probably do better with a better optic and weather condition.

As a background, I own a GAP10 in 308, a fleet of AI’s, and love the JP LRP07 but don’t own one. YMMV
 
Forgot the one and only crappy frozen finger pic...
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Picked one up this weekend for $900. I got the 16" . The trigger is mine was really nice. I was going to install an SSA-E but decided to leave the factory one in. I put my JP captured buffer in along with the AR15 pattern Magpul PRS. I hope it shoots because its hard to beat for the price.
 
Picked one up this weekend for $900. I got the 16" . The trigger is mine was really nice. I was going to install an SSA-E but decided to leave the factory one in. I put my JP captured buffer in along with the AR15 pattern Magpul PRS. I hope it shoots because its hard to beat for the price.
That's a really good price, I had to RMA mine because the gas block was pressing on the interior left side of the handguard and couldn't be straightened due to the GB set screw divots being off center. I'm hopeful Ruger will straighten it out though because I liked everything else about the rifle, especially for the price. The trigger on mine had a little creep to break and I was hoping for a lighter pull than the 4lb measured, but it's doable since it's a two stage. Honest with lightweight AR-10, there's a limit to how light I want the trigger since I've doubled a few times in the past trying the ease the trigger shooting groups at the bench, improved technique stopped that though.
 
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The jury is still out for me. I was about to start putting together an Aero AR10 then Ruger bought this out so thought I'd give it a try (20" barrel) It's the first .308 I've owned and the first 'AR10' type platform (all be it an AR15)
I had high hopes as my RPR 6.5cm is a tack driver. Trigger is really crisp and light enough for this sort of rifle, the brake works well although I've shot it suppressed after putting 100 rounds through it.
The buffer spring is evil. Factory crimped ammo (Fed AE 150gr) was jerking out .012-.015 when chambering. My uncrimped handloads .025+
I tried an H2 buffer which helped on the lightest load I was testing and also greatly reduced the case head swipe but as I increased charge weight (still very moderate) the CHS got bad again so switched to an Odin adjustable buffer. Two tungsten and one alu was a great improvement. On the final charge I was testing I tried 3 tungsten and that eliminated CHS but the recoil impulse was very heavy!
Previously on the stock buffer, when I was working up through charge weights I had really bad CHS, really tearing the brass up and even at a moderate load, it started blowing primers out.
Overall I like the rifle and concept and I really want it to work out well. I think I'm getting there but it's going to take some work to stop it tearing up brass/shoot nice/be accurate. It seems that a light charge is the way to go at the moment.
It hated the Fed AE150 giving an over 2 inch group at 100yds. Working up handloads I've had a couple of .7" groups but the SD/ES numbers weren't amazing. More work to do.
I've put a PRS Lite stock on, Strike Eagle scope but next mod will be an ambi charging handle .
I'll try to attach a couple of photos of brass using the stock buffer. The blown primers were only using 44.5gr of AA4064 with Sierra 168MK. Shouldn't have shown pressure at all really, right?
 

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The jury is still out for me. I was about to start putting together an Aero AR10 then Ruger bought this out so thought I'd give it a try (20" barrel) It's the first .308 I've owned and the first 'AR10' type platform (all be it an AR15)
I had high hopes as my RPR 6.5cm is a tack driver. Trigger is really crisp and light enough for this sort of rifle, the brake works well although I've shot it suppressed after putting 100 rounds through it.
The buffer spring is evil. Factory crimped ammo (Fed AE 150gr) was jerking out .012-.015 when chambering. My uncrimped handloads .025+
I tried an H2 buffer which helped on the lightest load I was testing and also greatly reduced the case head swipe but as I increased charge weight (still very moderate) the CHS got bad again so switched to an Odin adjustable buffer. Two tungsten and one alu was a great improvement. On the final charge I was testing I tried 3 tungsten and that eliminated CHS but the recoil impulse was very heavy!
Previously on the stock buffer, when I was working up through charge weights I had really bad CHS, really tearing the brass up and even at a moderate load, it started blowing primers out.
Overall I like the rifle and concept and I really want it to work out well. I think I'm getting there but it's going to take some work to stop it tearing up brass/shoot nice/be accurate. It seems that a light charge is the way to go at the moment.
It hated the Fed AE150 giving an over 2 inch group at 100yds. Working up handloads I've had a couple of .7" groups but the SD/ES numbers weren't amazing. More work to do.
I've put a PRS Lite stock on, Strike Eagle scope but next mod will be an ambi charging handle .
I'll try to attach a couple of photos of brass using the stock buffer. The blown primers were only using 44.5gr of AA4064 with Sierra 168MK. Shouldn't have shown pressure at all really, right?

Was most of the load work done suppressed (after the first 100 rds I suppose)? I assume all the suppressed shooting has been done with the gas regulator on the "1" send setting?

How much are the cases growing when fired?

IME, Hornady .308 brass is soft junk, and Federal is pretty soft too. I have some leftover Federal to load up for my SFAR, but expect it to get a bit mangled. Still, wouldn't think you'd be blowing primers 2gr under max unless there's something wonky with the chamber, case sizing/capacity or timing.
 
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Hodgdon lists a max charge of IMR 4064 with a 168 gr projectile in “308 Service rifle” as 43.9 grains.

In a very old thread right here on SH, Dan Newberry posted his research into FGMM loads and suggested the 168 SMK load was 42.8 gr IMR 4064.


Moreover, most will tell you that you can’t shoot your hotshot bolt gun loads in an AR and expect the brass to come away unscathed.

Your brass is telling you all you need to know…
 
Hodgdon lists a max charge of IMR 4064 with a 168 gr projectile in “308 Service rifle” as 43.9 grains.

In a very old thread right here on SH, Dan Newberry posted his research into FGMM loads and suggested the 168 SMK load was 42.8 gr IMR 4064.


Moreover, most will tell you that you can’t shoot your hotshot bolt gun loads in an AR and expect the brass to come away unscathed.

Your brass is telling you all you need to know…

He's shooting AA4064 not IMR4064, different powder with slightly higher load ranges. The Service Rifle data is dialed down specifically for M1/M1A. An AR .308 should not be as limited, and he's not feeding this AR Bubba's Pissin Hot handloads, he's 2 grains under max in Hodgdon's AA4064 data, and blowing primers... something else is not right (timing).

I like slightly slower powders like IMR4064 and Varget for bolt guns, but I've had better luck with timing in semis running more towards the faster end of the .308 range, AR-Comp and 8208, which will be the first two I'm loading up for the SFAR (16"/mlgs so even more sensitivity to timing).
 
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It's good to finally see more info come out on these in regards to shooting suppressed and and reloading for them. I've been on the fence about buying a 16" or cutting a 20" down. Looking @Southernspeed post about his experience I'm leaning towards a chopped 20" gun.

If and when I get to pick one up I'll be sure and post the results.
 
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Was most of the load work done suppressed (after the first 100 rds I suppose)? I assume all the suppressed shooting has been done with the gas regulator on the "1" send setting?

How much are the cases growing when fired?

IME, Hornady .308 brass is soft junk, and Federal is pretty soft too. I have some leftover Federal to load up for my SFAR, but expect it to get a bit mangled. Still, wouldn't think you'd be blowing primers 2gr under max unless there's something wonky with the chamber, case sizing/capacity or timing.
I just measured a bunch of fired cases against prepped, unfired cases and the fired cases are coming up around .003" shorter!!
All recent testing was done suppressed, yes. And on setting 1.
After blowing primers I used a no-go gauge and it 'almost' closed but not quite. Kind of weird that the cases shrink though? Unless the chamber is oversized in diameter? Not sure I can measure that.
 
I should’ve also mention that when loading to max magazine length of 2.8”, I’m .097 off the lands with Sierra 168mk.
I run my RPR ( 6.5cm/140ELD-M) at .090 by choice as it gave me best accuracy but I was surprised that I can’t get closer if I wanted to on the SFAR.
 
I should’ve also mention that when loading to max magazine length of 2.8”, I’m .097 off the lands with Sierra 168mk.
I run my RPR ( 6.5cm/140ELD-M) at .090 by choice as it gave me best accuracy but I was surprised that I can’t get closer if I wanted to on the SFAR.
You will always be limited to mag length in a semi auto unless you single feed which is a dumb thing to do in a semi.
 
You will always be limited to mag length in a semi auto unless you single feed which is a dumb thing to do in a semi.
For sure, that’s why I was kind of surprised at the amount of jump it was built with. It would’ve been nice to be able to start closer and work back if needed. No big deal though.
.7” in early testing is promising.
 
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For sure, that’s why I was kind of surprised at the amount of jump it was built with. It would’ve been nice to be able to start closer and work back if needed. No big deal though.
.7” in early testing is promising.
That's just a standard issue with .308 in 2.8" mags, the mags are always going to be your limiting factor for OAL with sleeker bullets. When you say your cases are shorter after firing, are you measuring from the shoulder with a comparator?
 
That's just a standard issue with .308 in 2.8" mags, the mags are always going to be your limiting factor for OAL with sleeker bullets. When you say your cases are shorter after firing, are you measuring from the shoulder with a comparator?
No not with a comparator as the heads are a bit chewed up due to swipe. That measurement was head to mouth. I’ll clean up a few heads and remeasure with comparator.
 
That's just a standard issue with .308 in 2.8" mags, the mags are always going to be your limiting factor for OAL with sleeker bullets. When you say your cases are shorter after firing, are you measuring from the shoulder with a comparator?
Not being too scientific here, as I don’t have a 308 comparator, but using a 6.5cm one I’m getting 1.656” on new cases ( full length sized with Hornady custom grade die) and 1.663” on fire formed.
So although not true 308 measurements they’ll give you an idea of what’s going on.
Does that figure sound reasonable?
 
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As a little side note to how the rifle beats on brass, I lightly cleaned up the last 25 I shot just so they’d fit in a shell holder again. As said, this was with a very moderate load and H2 buffer. The polished ejector and extractor are still raised slightly but will fit in a holder.

The extractor damage I can understand from the bolt turning too early but I’m surprised there’s so much flow into the twin ejectors with a mild load.

My other ARs are 300AAC so I’m not used to seeing this kind of damage. And these marks on my bolt guns are only ever mild when I’ve been building up loads. Live and learn eh!

Sorry to hijack the rifle thread with so much reloading talk but I truly appreciate your input!
 

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I should’ve also mention that when loading to max magazine length of 2.8”, I’m .097 off the lands with Sierra 168mk.
I run my RPR ( 6.5cm/140ELD-M) at .090 by choice as it gave me best accuracy but I was surprised that I can’t get closer if I wanted to on the SFAR.
so 2.8" is only the max length for SCAR, G3 or standard magpul magazines.
if you want a longer loading, you can use the magpul M118LR magazines (25rd, dark red follower) which allows 2.83" the D50 Drum also allows for 2.83"
or use KAC Metal 20s or Lancer mags, which allow for a max length of about 2.86"

enjoy!
 
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The jury is still out for me. I was about to start putting together an Aero AR10 then Ruger bought this out so thought I'd give it a try (20" barrel) It's the first .308 I've owned and the first 'AR10' type platform (all be it an AR15)
I had high hopes as my RPR 6.5cm is a tack driver. Trigger is really crisp and light enough for this sort of rifle, the brake works well although I've shot it suppressed after putting 100 rounds through it.
The buffer spring is evil. Factory crimped ammo (Fed AE 150gr) was jerking out .012-.015 when chambering. My uncrimped handloads .025+
I tried an H2 buffer which helped on the lightest load I was testing and also greatly reduced the case head swipe but as I increased charge weight (still very moderate) the CHS got bad again so switched to an Odin adjustable buffer. Two tungsten and one alu was a great improvement. On the final charge I was testing I tried 3 tungsten and that eliminated CHS but the recoil impulse was very heavy!
Previously on the stock buffer, when I was working up through charge weights I had really bad CHS, really tearing the brass up and even at a moderate load, it started blowing primers out.
Overall I like the rifle and concept and I really want it to work out well. I think I'm getting there but it's going to take some work to stop it tearing up brass/shoot nice/be accurate. It seems that a light charge is the way to go at the moment.
It hated the Fed AE150 giving an over 2 inch group at 100yds. Working up handloads I've had a couple of .7" groups but the SD/ES numbers weren't amazing. More work to do.
I've put a PRS Lite stock on, Strike Eagle scope but next mod will be an ambi charging handle .
I'll try to attach a couple of photos of brass using the stock buffer. The blown primers were only using 44.5gr of AA4064 with Sierra 168MK. Shouldn't have shown pressure at all really, right?

With FC brass and 168s at 2.8 I would work around 41-42. My favorite loads for gas guns were 41.5 H4895 and 43 RL15 both in FC or LC brass. I would use 150, 168 or 175gr bullets at I think 2.7", 2.8" and 2.82".
 
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Following on from my posts starting at #160, I’ve done a bit more load development and bedding the rifle in a bit more. I gave up on AA4064 and tried some IMR4895 and Varget. Varget giving best results so far with the 168 Sierra MKs. Brass is still getting a bit chewed up but not as bad as with AA4064.
This is still using the Odin 6.3oz heavy buffer. Next I’ll load up some more Varget loads +/- around the 42.6 tested on group 9 then mess around with buffer weight a bit more to see if I can be a bit kinder on the brass.
The rifle is definitely growing on me. I was kind of disappointed at first but I enjoy the challenge of improving it and I think eventually it’ll be a good, longer range coyote rifle reaching out a lot further than my current 300AAC AR.
 

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Following on from my posts starting at #160, I’ve done a bit more load development and bedding the rifle in a bit more. I gave up on AA4064 and tried some IMR4895 and Varget. Varget giving best results so far with the 168 Sierra MKs. Brass is still getting a bit chewed up but not as bad as with AA4064.
This is still using the Odin 6.3oz heavy buffer. Next I’ll load up some more Varget loads +/- around the 42.6 tested on group 9 then mess around with buffer weight a bit more to see if I can be a bit kinder on the brass.
The rifle is definitely growing on me. I was kind of disappointed at first but I enjoy the challenge of improving it and I think eventually it’ll be a good, longer range coyote rifle reaching out a lot further than my current 300AAC AR.
42.6 looks good! What's the ejection pattern like with the can, gas on 1 ?
 
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42.6 looks good! What's the ejection pattern like with the can, gas on 1 ?
Actually the brass isn't getting banged up at all from the port so I guess it's not getting thrown forward too much. I'll load up the next test batch then run it without the brass catcher and see what's going on. Previously, with Federal AE 150, it was ejecting at 3.30-4.00 o'clock
 
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Actually the brass isn't getting banged up at all from the port so I guess it's not getting thrown forward too much. I'll load up the next test batch then run it without the brass catcher and see what's going on. Previously, with Federal AE 150, it was ejecting at 3.30-4.00 o'clock
I just went back and looked at the pictures again, yours is a 20" gun ?
 
That's surprising, it looks like it's almost as rough on brass as my 16" version, which is about the hardest on brass of any rifle I've owned. To be fair, I suspected the mid-length gas system in a .308 was going to be problem with a can (been down this road before) and, no surprise, it is... The adjustable gas block helps some, but it's not nearly enough to compensate for that short gas system with a can on the end. Pretty much every piece of brass has two smeared ejector marks and an extractor mark. I'm kind of wondering if part of the issue is that there is so much of the bolt face cut away that the bearing surface is significantly decreased, and bearing stress increased.

I started out with Fed brass, which is soft garbage, Winchester brass was much better, but was still getting manhandled. I have some LC LR brass to try next, hopefully they are a little stouter and put up with this rough handling a little better. I will say, I got some Win Deer Season XP 150gr as a cheap factory yardstick, and the rifle shot really well with it, velocity was about 2,680 fps. Don't know if I can reuse the brass, but it would probably make an excellent, relatively cheap deer plunking load.
 
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That's surprising, it looks like it's almost as rough on brass as my 16" version, which is about the hardest on brass of any rifle I've owned. To be fair, I suspected the mid-length gas system in a .308 was going to be problem with a can (been down this road before) and, no surprise, it is... The adjustable gas block helps some, but it's not nearly enough to compensate for that short gas system with a can on the end. Pretty much every piece of brass has two smeared ejector marks and an extractor mark. I'm kind of wondering if part of the issue is that there is so much of the bolt face cut away that the bearing surface is significantly decreased, and bearing stress increased.

To be fair, I started out with Fed brass, which is soft garbage, Winchester brass was much better, but still getting manhandled. I have some LC LR brass to try next, hopefully they are a little stouter and put up with this rough handling a little better. I will say, I got some Win Deer Season XP 150gr as a cheap factory yardstick, and the rifle shot really well with it, velocity was about 2,680 fps. Don't know if I can reuse the brass, but it would probably make an excellent, relatively cheap deer plunking load.
When I tried a 7.6oz buffer it almost eliminated case head damage but the recoil impulse was horrible. Had to be the closest I’ve ever come to scope bite! I’m going to play with buffer weights again when I get some more test ammo loaded. The super light stock buffer certainly made it a light shooting gun ( that all reviews seem to rave about) but destroying brass is a big price to pay.
 
I tried 3 ten shot groups today with 42.4,42.6(used last time) and 42.8 of Varget. Plus I switched to 6.7oz buffer.
The SD and ES tripled for 42.6 🤷‍♂️ I know ten shots is going to show a more accurate range but it was surprising. Groups opened up too. Maybe due to the heavier recoil impulse with the heavier buffer.
I think I’m going to concede that this barrel doesn’t like 168 gn MatchKings. Time to move on maybe. My plan was to see what the rifle could do with what should have been a tack driver bullet before developing a critter round. 42.6gn with low SD/ES numbers was looking promising with an acceptable 100 yard group, but not so much after today.
No big deal, kind of disappointing but it’s all fun, right! I’ll do some research on a good fox/coyote bullet and start over.
Even with the heavier buffer it’s still tearing up case heads. Am I pushing it too hard?
I was shooting my ‘farm critter’ 300AAC yesterday working up some 110 v-max loads, makes me realise how nice the trigger is on my SFAR 😂
 

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I tried 3 ten shot groups today with 42.4,42.6(used last time) and 42.8 of Varget. Plus I switched to 6.7oz buffer.
The SD and ES tripled for 42.6 🤷‍♂️ I know ten shots is going to show a more accurate range but it was surprising. Groups opened up too. Maybe due to the heavier recoil impulse with the heavier buffer.
I think I’m going to concede that this barrel doesn’t like 168 gn MatchKings. Time to move on maybe. My plan was to see what the rifle could do with what should have been a tack driver bullet before developing a critter round. 42.6gn with low SD/ES numbers was looking promising with an acceptable 100 yard group, but not so much after today.
No big deal, kind of disappointing but it’s all fun, right! I’ll do some research on a good fox/coyote bullet and start over.
Even with the heavier buffer it’s still tearing up case heads. Am I pushing it too hard?
I was shooting my ‘farm critter’ 300AAC yesterday working up some 110 v-max loads, makes me realise how nice the trigger is on my SFAR 😂

Have you seen how it likes bullets in the 155gr or lighter range?
 
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Have you seen how it likes bullets in the 155gr or lighter range?
I tried factory Federal AE 150gn. It tore those up and the groups were 2”+
I have some Hornady 150 bthp, I could make up a couple of loads just to see.
I picked up some Hornady 165 interlock btsp today so I’ll try them.
I enjoy all the ‘experimentation’ but it’s getting expensive 😂
 
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This is curious too. Same load, fired one after the other. One filthy ( as most are when using the suppressor) , one clean. Clean one has almost no case head damage. I’ve noticed this a few times now. Any thoughts?
 

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I tried factory Federal AE 150gn. It tore those up and the groups were 2”+
I have some Hornady 150 bthp, I could make up a couple of loads just to see.
I picked up some Hornady 165 interlock btsp today so I’ll try them.
I enjoy all the ‘experimentation’ but it’s getting expensive 😂

Interesting.
I'm assuming you already did the good old standby 175gr FGMM or similar 175gr match ammo?
(Probably too slow for the kind of hunting you want to do anyways)
 
Interesting.
I'm assuming you already did the good old standby 175gr FGMM or similar 175gr match ammo?
(Probably too slow for the kind of hunting you want to do anyways)
No, this is the first 308 I’ve played with so just dove in with the MKs. I’ve got some Sierra 175s ( I think they’re 175s, have to check) so that’s another I can try. I’ve got a load of 195,200 and 220s I use for 300 aac subs ….. but where do I stop? 😁
 
I tried 3 ten shot groups today with 42.4,42.6(used last time) and 42.8 of Varget. Plus I switched to 6.7oz buffer.
The SD and ES tripled for 42.6 🤷‍♂️ I know ten shots is going to show a more accurate range but it was surprising. Groups opened up too. Maybe due to the heavier recoil impulse with the heavier buffer.
I think I’m going to concede that this barrel doesn’t like 168 gn MatchKings. Time to move on maybe. My plan was to see what the rifle could do with what should have been a tack driver bullet before developing a critter round. 42.6gn with low SD/ES numbers was looking promising with an acceptable 100 yard group, but not so much after today.
No big deal, kind of disappointing but it’s all fun, right! I’ll do some research on a good fox/coyote bullet and start over.
Even with the heavier buffer it’s still tearing up case heads. Am I pushing it too hard?
I was shooting my ‘farm critter’ 300AAC yesterday working up some 110 v-max loads, makes me realise how nice the trigger is on my SFAR 😂
The mid-length gas is far too short for a 20” unsuppressed. The suppressor makes this even worse. The rifle is going to unlock early and eat brass while having relatively harsh recoil no matter what you do. Why manufacturers are still using the incorrect gas length on factory rifles is beyond me. Rifle Length gas would have been the shortest while even longer would be ideal with a 20” even in .308 win.

Edit: The 20” has a rifle length gas so should be decent considering. Pointed out to me in post. #197.
 
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The mid-length gas is far too short for a 20” unsuppressed. The suppressor makes this even worse. The rifle is going to unlock early and eat brass while having relatively harsh recoil no matter what you do. Why manufacturers are still using the incorrect gas length on factory rifles is beyond me. Rifle Length gas would have been the shortest while even longer would be ideal with a 20” even in .308 win.
Interesting…… not what I wanted to hear, but interesting!
 
Lots of guys think an adjustable gas block fixes early unlocking of the bolt. It doesn’t. At least not to the extent of moving the gas port towards the muzzle.
No I can understand that. Shame Ruger didn’t think about that a bit more. I guess they were happy to have such a soft shooting 308 they didn’t care about brass 🤷‍♂️