338 Norma is pretty awesome but it’s a bit slower than 338 lapua.
Really it’s biggest benefit is how it fits better with 300’s in magazines.
It is really easy to find a decent load with as well.
-
Having trouble using the site?
Contact support
Savage 110 elite precision
- Thread starter HMRamateur
- Start date
Really it’s biggest benefit is how it fits better with 300’s in magazines.
It is really easy to find a decent load with as well.
They dont offer it in 338 norma, So I will shoot the 338 til its shot out then look at another option, maybe a 37xc or something.
Yeah my buddy said that was the whole point of the Norma, heavier high BC bullets. I have a 6.5x284 Norma and ammo is ridiculously expensive and hard to find so I'm sure the 338 Norma would be even worse. That's a big reason why I started handloading. My 6.5x284 and 6mm BR Norma would be too expensive to shoot otherwise.
Typically I would respond in a rather "unfriendly" manner to this type of comment but perhaps I just took it wrong so here you go. I literally just opened the box, put the bolt and magazine in it 30 minutes ago.
Attachments
Does look quite nice. And you took it the right way, no ill will, just wanted to see a picture! I like the pieced together look of it all. Wonder if they are going to go with a single color later.
Thanks. I recently saw a Browning X-bolt HS3 that looked pretty good and was a bit cheaper but this one but the 110 was already on the way. They make a 110 Precision (not elite) that's about $500 cheaper. It is still a MDT chassis, black nitride heavy barrel and FDE color on the chassis. It looks a lot like the T/C LRR. I started to build a chassis rifle with a Howa 1500 barreled action but they discontinued the heavy barrel in 26 inch length. That combined with the fact I've only built a few AR's and I've only cut 5 chambers I was afraid I would end up spending more money and no guarantee I would have an accurate rifle. I'm a novice as far as competition is concerned and I'm wanting to upgrade my Athlon Helos.
Thanks
I have a question for the more experienced long range shooters on here. I just received my 110 elite precision today. It's the 6.5 CR I've always used the (one shot then clean x5 three shots then clean x3 and 10 shots and clean) as my standard barrel break-in procedure. On the 3 shot and 10 shot portion I always allow 2-3 minutes between shots. Do any of you suggest a different break-in? This is a stainless 26 inch Palma heavy profile. 1.125 o.d. at the breach and .925 at muzzle. And of course this is a Savage 110 short action made from stainless. I appreciate any constructive advice or criticism. Thanks in advance.
Another question for you chassis guys. This is my first ACRA
That's pretty much what I do with my other rifles during normal use but I'm talking about a new unfired and freshly cut precision barrel and if anyone can recommend a specific break-in procedure for this type barrel. It is a 26 inch stainless extra heavy modified Palma profile.
If anyone here has already received and used one of these 110 Elite's what was your barrel break-in process? I thought about attempting to lead lap the barrel myself but I've never tried that before. This is one of the most expensive rifles I own and I want to maximize it's potential for accuracy.
I understand about the money it is a lot for you what I am saying is if you want to shoot and clean every round for 20 rounds it is your rifle. I have had numerous barrels from from most of the big names, I used to shoot and clean for 10 then after every 3 and so on. Now I clean it when I get it back from the smith and shoot light it in and let the barrel tell me what it needs. My last 2 would need cleaning after 350 to 400 rounds others would last 300 every one is different. Good luck and post some pics
I've read arguments both supporting the break-in process and others, like you, who say it's unnecessary or depends on the specific barrel. I'm thinking about having the barrel lead lapped professionally. I've never owned a lead lapped barrel but I really like the idea of the entire bore being evenly polished. Thanks for the advice.
You can ask 10 people what the best break in cycle is, and you’ll get 6 different answers. 5 different multi-step process and 5 people saying just shoot it and be happy.
Every higher end factory savage barrel I’ve run, especially my 12lrp, shot better than me with no break in. Get a box of ammo and head to the range. See how she does after 5, I’m sure you’ll be shocked. If it makes you feel better. Run a copper solvent down the barrel, breach to crown one way only after 5rds for the first 20. After that shoot it and forget about “break in”. Each bullet going down the bore is going to smooth it out a little bit.
Back in the day of seemingly cold chiseled bores, break in was required. But the modern tooling, especially that off the savage barrel lines are very good.
You bought a rifle that is one hell of a first time go. Got shoot and get used to it, don’t sweat the small shit.
Every higher end factory savage barrel I’ve run, especially my 12lrp, shot better than me with no break in. Get a box of ammo and head to the range. See how she does after 5, I’m sure you’ll be shocked. If it makes you feel better. Run a copper solvent down the barrel, breach to crown one way only after 5rds for the first 20. After that shoot it and forget about “break in”. Each bullet going down the bore is going to smooth it out a little bit.
Back in the day of seemingly cold chiseled bores, break in was required. But the modern tooling, especially that off the savage barrel lines are very good.
You bought a rifle that is one hell of a first time go. Got shoot and get used to it, don’t sweat the small shit.
Lol! I'll probably do a very abbreviated break in of maybe 3 single shot and clean cycles then one 5 shot then clean then be done. It seems like the break-in process is something someone would do who had a new barrel and a competition a day or two later. It makes sense that x number rounds down the tube will do the job wether it's ten 1 shot then clean cycles then 5 shot & clean all in one session or the same number of rounds through the barrel in any other way. I guess as long as you don't overheat the barrel or shoot with an excessively dirty bore the results will be about the same. Believe it or not I have a $275 T/C Compass 6.5 CR that I've shot a 5.64 inch 3 shot group at 1000 yards. I bought this rifle to go deer hunting with my dad. I don't particularly enjoy hunting, it was just a father-son thing. So I did absolutely nothing other than the initial new firearm clean, zeroed the scope then proceeded to shoot 30 or so rounds over a weekend hunting trip. Later I did the load development and managed some fantastic 600 and 1000 yard groups. I think I cleaned it after around 50 rounds and that was it. The rifle shot so well I was looking at the Thompson/Center LRR chassis rifle when I came across the 110 Elite. So that really supports your opinion on the matter. I really do appreciate the advice.
I've never had the privilege of owning a custom cut chamber or custom rifle and one of the most frustrating aspects of shooting and hand loading SAAMI spec chambers is, almost without exception, high BC VLD bullets (especially polymer tipped) and feeding from a magazine are always too long for the magazine. That is if you're seating zero to forty thousandths off the lands. I'm happy to report that the Savage 110 Elite 6.5 CR doesn't suffer from this problem. First the MDT Teflon coated steel magazine is 2.905 length I.d. and this particular rifle's C.O.A.L. is 2.895 147 ELD Match and 2.869 140 ELD Match. The Berger 140 is too long at 2.956 and I love Berger OTM and Hybrid Target bullets but I don't use them very often simply because of local availability and price. I bet 140 SMK's will fit as well as Hornady 140 HPBT. I don't mind single shot rifles at all and love my model 12 6mm Norma BR but single feeding a magazine fed rifle absolutely sucks!
I’ve had a few mid range barrels and one really high end one and I have been making all my loads mag length and Jumping .060 to .12 for years now with excellent results.
My last two 260 barrels even have extra long throats because I found a great combination of speed, accuracy and moderate pressure going that route.
most modern bullets love jump now and even the classic VLD’s often did surprisingly well with it.
I read an technical bulletin from Berger about that very thing.
Getting the Best Precision and Accuracy from VLD bullets in Your Rifle
VLD bullets are designed with a secant ogive. This ogive shape allows bullets to be more efficient in flight (retain more velocity = less drop and wind deflection). While this result is desirable for many rifle shooters the secant ogive on the VLD bullets produces another result in many rifle.
bergerbullets.com
I've experimented with long jumps but the rifles I own don't shoot them well. My 224 Valkyrie was particularly frustrating. If I loaded 90 grain SMK's the rounds were a quarter inch too long. The secant ogive bullets with their very long profile shot better than tangent ogive bullets but still the accuracy was only mediocre at best. I tried a lot of jump lengths but never got very good results.
Very curious if they've improved the bolt lift feel in these with the "blueprinting" of them. I've been a fan of their rifles since buying a 10FP years ago, but its unquestionably rougher cycling than other actions. This certainly looks like a screaming deal with the rifle and ACC chassis going for what they are.
Thanks. That’s what I was planning on... I just talked with my local gun shop and they just got the same gun in in 6.5cm and for $100 more I think I’ll go pick it up. I too was in the market for the 338 LP but have decided to finally get into the ELR game with the Desert Tech HTI later this year... believe it will be in 416 Barrett.
so I have 3 savages and out of the 3 this one is the smoothest of the 3.
I have a older model 10, a new model 10 grs and the 110 elite and the elite has the smoothest of the 3.
Ps I got mine on Monday, but because I live in California I have a 10 day wait period. The 338 felt robust, and the action felt smooth, even with no lube!
Grab some 140 ELD-m and just run it ragged. I was grouping .3 to .5 at 100 with this gun.
For those of you who've got yours and have put some rounds through, what's the verdict?
Im curious of thoughts on the performance and accuracy of those who have recently grabbed one of these. Im looking at picking one up as it seems like a great deal with the chassis and savage specific enhancements made. Lets see some pics and videos!!
I’m picking mine up on Thursday, and will mount up my 5hd that night and will shoot it next week. Problem being is I will be starting up on load dev, so no loads will be developed, but I will post my review and maybe make a video. I’ll be using h1000 lapua brass and starting off with using the hornady 300 atips.
Anyone who has the 338 Lapua Magnum... could you tell me if there is a can't in the picatinny rail or if it's simply a 0 MOA? I went through the Savage website and I can't find anything about it.
From what I have read it has 20 moa built in.
I ended up getting a ARC mount with 25 moa in the base to use with the mark25hd
Thank you very much for the answer.
I can't wait to hold that 338 lapua Magnum in my hands and especially shoot it at long distance... I have a 2.1 Km range that I will be able to stretch the legs of that rifle on.
Hey all, I finally got to shoot my new 110 elite.... posted a little review with some photos and videos here. Let me know if any of you can’t see it and I’ll copy and paste it.
Hey on the above post you may have missed it but if you hit the right arrow on the image you will see my first group which was .57 moa
So it still has that heavy savage bolt lift regardless if you have one in the chamber or not. BUT I didnt have any trouble with the bolt at all, even on the hotter loads, I was able to maintain check weld and easily eject. it was pretty smooth, I'm happy with the action.
Comparing it to a tika, I have no idea, I haven't shot a tika.
Hello everyone, new here... I just purchased the 338 Lapua model and while installing external M-LOK weights realized that the barrel is crooked in the chassis. I took the action out and reinstalled it to 65 in pounds and it looks the same. It is still free-floating, but noticeably canted to the right. I've not put a scope on it yet or shot it, so it might be a tack driver, but I am new to Savage, new to bolt guns, and new to a chassis, so I don't know if this is an issue I should be concerned about.
Thanks in advance for your advice / comments.
Thanks in advance for your advice / comments.
Attachments
i feel like I almost thought that about mine as well and thought it was the angle I was looking at it from, but I’ll double check mine with some measurements tomorrow and let you know.
I just took mine out and checked it out to see if mine was the same and i have to say its very slight to the left. I took it out a few weeks ago to do a rough sight in and its shoots amazing. Only had time to put a few rounds through it and the GRS until the wind picked up crazy. So we packed up.
Attachments
Agioiella, how do you like the new stock compared to the GRS seen in the adjoining rifle?
I've heard some concerning reports regarding Savage rifle actions but i must admit i've never had any problems with my 112V and your photo sure looks great.
I've heard some concerning reports regarding Savage rifle actions but i must admit i've never had any problems with my 112V and your photo sure looks great.
Similar threads
