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Rifle Scopes Scope ring torque wrench reccomendations?

Winny94

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  • Nov 19, 2013
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    I'm installing my first "nice" scope and mount. Mfg reccomended 25 in/lbs per screw. What do you reccomend for a torque wrench/driver?
     
    If you appreciate fine tools, watch ebay for a Stahlwille torque screwdriver. They pop up every once in a while for around $100. They are about $500 new. Likely you will need to convert your desired settings to Nm or Ncm but that is easy enough. You won't find anything better.
     
    I purchased a wheeler and I seems to have worked fine...recently mounted a new scope and zeroed it without any problem. And I certainly understand a strong reluctance to spend $100 to $150 for a tool that gets used very infrequently for most of us. I've also spoken with some longtime shooters who simply mount their scope and torque by feel with an Allen wrench.
     
    In the interest preserving common sense, I would suggest that you don't need a torque wrench at all, which is not going to be anywhere near as precise as most people probably think it is. 25 inch pounds is about 8 pounds of force applied at the end of a three inch long wrench. You can do this by feel. We're not torquing engine blocks - just scope rings.
     
    You might look at dial type, that are direct reading. On low torque situation you can watch the increase, confirming that is in fact set correctly. Also in softer materials you can tell if threads are going to pull before they fail completely.

    Just as with any precision tool they need to be recheck to confirm that the calibration is still accurate.
     
    I was once too intimidated by the price of a good torque wrench for "gun smithing" assembly. After many unrest less hours of wondering if torque could be an issue (rings, base, action screws, etc.) I sucked it up and purchased the Borka. It is perfect and a simple quality piece for gun assembly. I haven't even begun to regret it. Well worth the money even if only for piece of mind.
    Alternatives may "do", but I say Borka all the way.
     
    In the interest preserving common sense, I would suggest that you don't need a torque wrench at all, which is not going to be anywhere near as precise as most people probably think it is. 25 inch pounds is about 8 pounds of force applied at the end of a three inch long wrench. You can do this by feel. We're not torquing engine blocks - just scope rings.

    Show me a da-da-damn wrist calibrated to +/- 6% by ISO-6789, please.

    Borka, Wiha and Proto units make the grade.

    And it doesn't take the integral f(x) by separation of parts to figure what the right choice is.

    Wiha #28508: 20 to 70in-lbs (+/- 6%)

    • Tools Marked with Serial No. & Include Calibration Certificate
    • Meets ASME B107.14m, EN ISO 6789, BS EN 26789
    • Quality & Accuracy Guaranteed to 5000 Cycles
    • Laser Calibrated & Scale Marked, Serialized for traceability
    • Enclosed Mechanism Ideal for production controlled environments
    • Secure Torque Setting, Requires torque adjustment tool
    • Reverse Torque is 50% higher than indicated setting, easy removal
    • Guaranteed accuracy to 5000 cycles or 1 year

    I'm only editing in the spirit of common sense...
    which cannot be purchased at Sears & Roebuck.
     
    Show me a da-da-damn wrist calibrated to +/- 6% by ISO-6789, please.

    Borka, Wiha and Proto units make the grade.

    And it doesn't take the integral f(x) by separation of parts to figure what the right choice is.

    Wiha #28508: 20 to 70in-lbs (+/- 6%)

    • Tools Marked with Serial No. & Include Calibration Certificate
    • Meets ASME B107.14m, EN ISO 6789, BS EN 26789
    • Quality & Accuracy Guaranteed to 5000 Cycles
    • Laser Calibrated & Scale Marked, Serialized for traceability
    • Enclosed Mechanism Ideal for production controlled environments
    • Secure Torque Setting, Requires torque adjustment tool
    • Reverse Torque is 50% higher than indicated setting, easy removal
    • Guaranteed accuracy to 5000 cycles or 1 year

    I'm only editing in the spirit of common sense...
    which cannot be purchased at Sears & Roebuck.

    Show me a torque wrench user that knows the thread or head friction within 50%. You don't need a torque wrench for this. Especially when there is a gap between the rings you can use to gage tightness.
     
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