Summary of experiences with and thoughts about Tig-IR over past 2 nights.
We have the following tools with which to optimize the image at any given point in time:
1 - brightness button (button 1, momentary tap)
2 - filter selection (boost filter versus non-boost filter, button 2, press and hold)
3 - NUC (button 1, press and hold, or flip down objective cover and flip back up)
Over last two nights I've experienced both higher winds and rain, thus some challenges for image optimization which was perfect as this gave opportunity to see the unit's ability to function in these conditions.
On this first night, as reported above, I was able to collimate the unit to my L&S Mk6 3-18x T3 on 762(22) Rem700/Criterion/Bravo gun which I usually shoot off RRS tripod when overwatching calving cows.
Since then I've remounted it about 8 times and last night shot a coon at about 90 yds thru three layers of vegetation up in a tree. So the Tig can kill stuff, even after multiple remounts.
So, in wind and rain conditions we are fighting "washout" meaning it becomes more difficult to distinguish terrain elements.
Usually washout does not affect critters so much as they are much hotter, but washout can make the terrain harder to see and you loose orientation and ability to judge distances based on terrain features.
So with the tig, the first line of defense against washout is turning down the brightness.
The second line of defense against washout is filter selection. Andres calls these "filters" whereas often thermal users call them "pallets".
For each filter, there are two versions, one call "boost" and one which is not called boost. Like "Black Hot" (BH) and Boost Black Hot" (BBH).
We have a question in about this, but my guess is that the boost version has a different "gain" setting in the core/sensor.
So, by toggling back and forth between BH (Black Hot) and BBH (Boost Black Hot) I was able to have another lever to adjust image.
And of course nucing, last night I found it useful to do a few manual nucs, to optimize image.
Normally all my thermals are manual nuc, and I don't even think about doing manual nucs, like shifting gears on a vehicle, it just happens
.
But there were a few circumstances were manual nucs helped with the Tig.
So armed with those tools, I was able to get some pretty good images with the Tig and I'll show some examples below.
Other aspects of the unit that stood out, compared to my UTCs I was running side by side:
a - Tiny size of Tig, 4.5 inches long. The smallest clipon of any sort I've used so far.
b - Very fast start up. I didn't time it, but by the time you start a UTC wait for it to load and the do the first manual nuc, I'd guess its about 6 seconds. The Tig seems like sub-second. Very fast.
c - Uses 16650 batteries which I was using, and I ran it for about 8 hours before I got a "blinking" battery light, which I think means, we are loosing voltage. I plan to use it until it shuts down, to go thru the whole cycle.
d - The positions of the buttons are different from any other unit I've used, 2 on the left side, one on the top and 1 on the back.
Working on memorizing which buttons to what and best way to postion my hand for each. I'll just say I'm working thru the learning curve on the buttons !
e - The menu items are very intuitive and well documented. Even though the manual was translated from German, its short and helpful.
I will continue to test the unit at least for the rest of this week. If any questions, please ask.
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Ok now for some pics:
All pics are of cattle at 277 to 330 yards, through L&S Mk6 3-18x T3 scope. Optical magnification on the day scope at 3x unless otherwise stated.
Digital magnification on Tig is as shown in the image, otherwise 1x. Clipons used in the comparison are
Andres Tig-IR 6z+
BAE UTC-x (640)
BAE UTC (320)
Conditions were 20-25 MPH winds except where noted once it started raining. These shots were taken over two different nights in three different sessions, but each group where taken together, side by side in the same conditions.
Be aware I'm out there getting blown around by the wind, trying to hold the phone cam at the correct eye relief and line it up behind the day scope in 3 dimensions to take the pic.
And I sucque at it
So, these images are an order of magnitude worse than what you see with the MK1EB.
Tig
Tig, 2x digital 3x optical net magnification 6x
UTC(320)
UTC-x
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Tig, rain 2x digital, 3x optical, 6x net magnification
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Learnings on image:
Adjusting brightness helps alot, so don't be bashful about tapping the #1 button.
Switching between BBH and BH helps also.
One feature that I like is the ability to turn on and off a number of menu items, such as the "filters". So by default, I would use BBH, BH, WH and BWH (boost black hot, black hot, white hot and boost white hot).
Nucing helps, especially after first starting up the unit. Just like with any other thermal, nuc the sh^t out of it !!
More to come !!!