Sorry about that meant to say if I would have used a 0 MOA rail then I wouldn’t have been able to zero at 100y. I was able to zero at 100y. Took it to a gunsmith.
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Steiner T6xi
- Thread starter M77
- Start date
I feel pretty stupid but figured out the issue by myself. Zeroed the scope and didn’t reset the zero stop to zero once I sighted the rifle in. Just zeroed the zero stop this morning and now I can dial nearly 55 MOA.
Good idea. I’ll work on that in the next few days when I have time. Need to reread the manual again to double check that I did not miss anything.
I’d imagine most people would reset the zero stop before checking how much available elevation they are left with. But that was not an issue in any of my other scopes, so I just didn’t think to do it. Normally will reset the zero stop when I get the rifle dialed in exactly how I want and then go from there.
Not everybody here is experienced with long range shooting and scopes and zero stops, myself included. A lot of posting on this site assumes a lot of experience that many participants here just do not have.
Anyway, I bet I would not be the only person reading to appreciate your description of what to do.
Anyway, I bet I would not be the only person reading to appreciate your description of what to do.
I will definitely make sure to do it then. There were a few steps that were different than other scopes I've zeroed.
This was for a Tikka T3X CTR 308 with a 25 MOA base with a t6xi 2.5-15 MOA and 1.1” Vortex branded Seekins rings. Posting this so hopefully it helps someone else avoid the same mistakes.
First thing I done wrong was that I removed the top part of the turret. No reason to do that. Should have been a clue that I was doing something wrong when the manual doesn’t reference taking the top of the turret off at all. You can reset the zero stop just by loosening the two 2mm hex screws located just above the numbers on the scope. You’re doing something wrong if you’re using anything other than a 2mm hex.
Second screwup was deciding to set the zero stop back an entire revolution. Done this boresighting by removing the bolt. I should have taken a shot and adjusted from there. Adjusting a whole revolution made me need to go 40 MOA upwards and my initial impacts went into the dirt in front of the target. Manual says that impact would be considerably high without a canted base, so I assumed it would be a good idea to make it shoot considerably lower. It was not..
Third mistake was not resetting the zero stop once I sighted in the rifle. This made me believe that I only had 18 MOA of upwards elevation, when I really had 58 MOA after setting the zero stop correctly.
The manual disagrees with itself about the total MOA. One page says 120 MOA of elevation at 100y and another says 60 MOA . This could be explained by someone who knows more than I do. But it does seem like there’s more than 60 MOA if I am left with 58 MOA. Perhaps they mean you will end up with 60 MOA?
Best advice I could give would be to read the manual and actually understand what you’re doing before wasting ammo like me. If you aren’t sure about something then just ask. Most folks here will gladly help another shooter in a heartbeat.
This is what I’d recommend doing and wished I would have done from the beginning. You need to first set the elevation to the locked position before adjusting the zero stop downwards after taking your initial shot. Do this by turning the top part of the turret until you see the locked symbol. Then take the provided 2mm hex key and loosen the two screws located on the upper sides of the turret. Look for two tiny black holes, just large enough to insert the hex key. Back the screws out until you no longer hear clicking when dialing. Turn the turret until the zero is lined up, then tighten both screws. No need to tighten the screws too much and they shouldn’t be hard to loosen initially. Hopefully this helps someone somehow. Didn’t have time to take pictures and I’m not sure they would have really helped out a great deal.
Just a wild ass guess but perhaps they mean the scope’s total elevation is 120 MOA, but once the scope is adjusted for a 100 m zero you get about half of that elevation still usable. In other words, at a 100 m zero the erector assembly is in the middle of the adjustment range.
The way Steiner describes their elevation amount on their web site is odd. They say “Elevation Range at 100 m” vs internal adjustment range (how Nightforce etc lists it).
That’s what I was thinking also, but wasn’t certain. They really need to do it how other companies do. I’m sure there’s plenty of folks that see 60 MOA and they pass.
In all honesty The manual could explain this a bit easier with better picks.
Needs to be read through a few times and make sure you understand it,
cause anyone can make a mistake. When you get older and eyesight starts going
it’s real easy to mis stuff in those tiny printed manuals.
Needs to be read through a few times and make sure you understand it,
cause anyone can make a mistake. When you get older and eyesight starts going
it’s real easy to mis stuff in those tiny printed manuals.
Definitely could have been explained better in the manual but the mistakes I made definitely were my fault entirely. Should have understood the manual before adjusting anything. Figured it would be similar to other scopes, but that wasn’t the case at all, at least for me.
I'll follow your post very carefully once I get my rifle together. Thank you for taking the time to explain.
Let me know if you have any questions once you start to put it together. Good luck!
Seems like a Steiner thing. I had an M7Xi and tried to zero it and it bottomed out at about 18 MOA high before I realized it's designed to be used with a 20 MOA rail/mount. Ended up ordering a 20 MOA rail and was fine, but yeah - it'd be nice if they were a bit louder about that.
How does the T6XI 5-30 compare to the Leupold Mark 5HD 5-25 or 7-35? I was looking at picking up a used Mark 5HD for a rifle I am building but just found these Steiner T6XI's are in the same price range. This rifle will primarily be used at the bench, some hunting with the possibility of NRL Hunter matches.
Well I guess l liked my 2.5-15 t6xi. Just ordered this for a AR 6.5 creed build I’m finishing out. Be my second T6xi now
^^ Don’t feel bad. I put my 2.5-15x on my 308 Tikka CTR and was ringing steel at 602 yards with ease yesterday. That’s the furtherest I’ve shot. Bought the scope to put on another Tikka I’m having built. But definitely will be buying another t6xi. DVOR has the 2.5-15 for $1480 right now and the 3-18 for $1600.
I haven't directly compared the glass between the Mk5 and Steiner, but I like the turrets better on the Steiner, and the MSR2 reticle is awesome.
Those prices are crazy good! And I thought I did good on mine at camera land. Oh well they are great folks there so I’m good with it.
Yeah I’ve ran my 2.5-15 to 700 yds a few times on my Mega built AR 223 easily on 12” plate. I wanted to go 5-30 on this one but being practical I won’t shoot over 1k hardly ever so felt the 3-18 will suit my needs more on this build. They are fantastic scopes, especially for the price.
Thanks, dudes. Ordered a t6xi 2.5-15 yesterday. Very excited to check this thing out against a MK5 and a Polar. Will report back.
Just generally. Expertvoice has the 1-6 listed for a steal and I’m almost trying to find a need for it.
Currently have a T5Xi 3-15 on my 308, but if I feel like its a bit much I may consider the T6Xi 1-6.
Currently have a T5Xi 3-15 on my 308, but if I feel like its a bit much I may consider the T6Xi 1-6.
It's very much a bog standard newest style, high quality LPVO. A carbine/rifle optic, maybe DMR depending on your definitions, but not a precision scope per se. Reticle designed to be illuminated, for rapid shooting, more accuracy further out if you zoom, but only a handful of holds and very much oriented to increased range than dealing seriously with large wind drift, moving targets or measuring impacts, so more of them below the center, just a few to side and top.
(Note: all the red bits are perfectly usefully solid black when power off but note it's never shown that way; designed to be illuminated).
Same quality, same basic build (no second rotation window...) and terrific glass, seems fully usable to 6x, some very clever stuff for that like the big ring being zoomed out of the way and the center dot revealing itself to be a circle-cross, but not for the same usage as all the higher mag scopes.
This is my first “higher end” scope and I’m hooked. But you’re right about the magnification, up until now I’ve had 5-25x on everything and that’s really not needed. Going to ultimately put it on a whitetail hunting rig and 15x is more than enough.
That’s an impressive AR, doing good to hit a torso sized target at 25 yards with my AR pistol. Bought it without doing any research cause it was cheap. I need to at least get a decent upper though.
Built a lightweight bolt action rifle for NRL hunter matches. Came down to these two scopes. Luckily had friends with both to check out. The glass on both are excellent to my eyes. Easy to get behind. Great feeling turrets on both. I think I would have been happy with either. Decided to go with the Mark5HD as it's lighter and has been well proven over the past handful of years.
Would you be willing to part with your t5xi? I’ve been looking for one. Thanks
From a few things I have read better. But I would be curious to hear from some on here also
I don't have a Burris to compare my new 3-18 to. Just received it this week. I looked pretty heavily through the glass today, both during some cloudy morning hours and also when it was mostly sunny. My current other optics are a couple Sig Tango 6 LPVOs, a Leupold VX-5, a S&B PMII 5-25, a Steiner P4Xi 4-16, an SWFA Ultralight, a Tract Toric, and a Delta Stryker 1-6. The T6Xi glass to my eyes is better than all but the Schmidt. And its not far off that, in fact I might say its equal, but would like to compare out on the range and side by side before I make that claim. The glass is just super clear, no yellow or blue tint to it like I often see on cheaper lenses.
I don't know if the T6Xi is German glass, but I expect it is. My other Steiner and the Schmidt to me are the best glass I own (although the P4Xi has some CA on bright sunny days), and both use german lenses. I had a Razor 1-10, and it didn't compare. The only other 3-18 I've ever owned was a Tango 6 Gen 2, and the new Steiner smokes it.
The eye relief is awesome, I love the green reticle (wish it was brighter), and the eye-box for a 6x erector is pretty forgiving. Now I want to try the 1-6 and the 2.5-15! Gonna have to wait though, as we lost most of a big tree during the recent wind storms, and cost to cover cutting down and removing would probably have funded both of those. Such is life.
I don't know if the T6Xi is German glass, but I expect it is. My other Steiner and the Schmidt to me are the best glass I own (although the P4Xi has some CA on bright sunny days), and both use german lenses. I had a Razor 1-10, and it didn't compare. The only other 3-18 I've ever owned was a Tango 6 Gen 2, and the new Steiner smokes it.
The eye relief is awesome, I love the green reticle (wish it was brighter), and the eye-box for a 6x erector is pretty forgiving. Now I want to try the 1-6 and the 2.5-15! Gonna have to wait though, as we lost most of a big tree during the recent wind storms, and cost to cover cutting down and removing would probably have funded both of those. Such is life.
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It’s a stretch to say that the Steiners IQ is equal to the PMII. It’s good, but it’s not equal. At least in my sample of one.
Got my t6xi 2.5-15x50 today and was able to give it a look alongside a MK5 3.6-18 and a Polar 2.5-10. My backyard is weird and even though I live in Michigan I can see about two miles from my upstairs windows. All observations were done at a boat house 600 yards away (and nothing was mounted on a gun).
1. The Polar pops so hard at 2.5 it’s a little silly. The Steiner was second place on low mag, Leupold was a close third. All were impressive.
2. The Polar only goes to ten and really can hold up, but the MK5 did the best at full magnification. CA was about equal on the MK5 and Steiner, but at full mag the Steiner had more blue to my eyes than the Leupold at 15.
3. I’m no Glassaholic or DLO but I’ve owned a lot of nice optics. This isn’t an S&B or TT or whatever, but it’s a really nice piece of gear from what I’ve seen so far (especially for the $1300 I paid). Glass is solid, turrets are tactile/audible and the locking system is nifty.
4. Ultimately, this scope is what I wanted the NX8 2.5-20 to be, just without the depth of field and parallax foibles. And hey, maybe that’s where it fits in. Glass on par with a MK5, presumably solid internals, and a street price between $1300-$1600. Only issue I see is weight, but again, it’s only three oz thiccer than an NX8.
1. The Polar pops so hard at 2.5 it’s a little silly. The Steiner was second place on low mag, Leupold was a close third. All were impressive.
2. The Polar only goes to ten and really can hold up, but the MK5 did the best at full magnification. CA was about equal on the MK5 and Steiner, but at full mag the Steiner had more blue to my eyes than the Leupold at 15.
3. I’m no Glassaholic or DLO but I’ve owned a lot of nice optics. This isn’t an S&B or TT or whatever, but it’s a really nice piece of gear from what I’ve seen so far (especially for the $1300 I paid). Glass is solid, turrets are tactile/audible and the locking system is nifty.
4. Ultimately, this scope is what I wanted the NX8 2.5-20 to be, just without the depth of field and parallax foibles. And hey, maybe that’s where it fits in. Glass on par with a MK5, presumably solid internals, and a street price between $1300-$1600. Only issue I see is weight, but again, it’s only three oz thiccer than an NX8.
And I would hope the PMII is better, as its double the cost and sometimes then some (though I snagged mine for 2100). I won't claim its equal until I can compare side by side. However I get that same, wow this is really clear, good glass feeling like I first did with the PMII.
One thing I'm worried about with the Steiner is how it handles CA. It wasn't bright enough to tell today.
Bought my 2.5-15x for under $1300. Are the prices better than that? I need to buy a 30 cal suppressor before another scope.
@joshobean - Agreed. My only letdown in the 3-18 is the amount of CA that appears on bright days when I’m not perfectly aligned. Other than that it is a solid little scope. I’d buy it again.
Optics planet, but it was a blem model for $1240. Tried to buy it through DVOR, but it sold before I could ask for permission from the wife. Contacted customer service and they had opticsplanet send me an invoice through PayPal for a $690 discount.
Brown truck left this today. Should pair nice with the AR 6.5 creed I’m finishing
