Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Already been out for a couple of months in Iray formI just saw this SHOT Show report on Varminter.com that mentioned the Super Hogster/Yoter with LRF with a release date of August 22
I'll try that.On other Chinese optics and drones it wants you to point in 3 different directions and rotate on axis to calibrate.
I checked after you told me to get the 1280 one and the same Bering part# referenced both. The only place I saw 1280 was in some references on distributor's websites. Bering's website and the manual that came with the one I have states they are 1024.I'm seeing some yotesters saying their displays are 1024 and others saying they are 1280.
Also, some saying they are IP66 and other saying they are IP67.
Does anyone know a source for a 1280, IP67 version ?
( maybe these are just typos on websites ? )
Boris from Bering told me Fall of 2022 is their target. Bering typically drops a new thermal every year around September/October. The Super Yoter this year was a bit behind and was in the October time period. Bering doesn't like to give dates because they like to under-promise and over-deliver. From what I have been told, the plans are for a SH LRF and a SY50mm LRF. I write SY50mm because it looks like a SY35 will release earlier in the year. I am not aware of any plans to incorporate it into a C model. Bering hasn't officially announced if the SH LRF or SY LRF will be worked on first or if both will make it by Fall 2022 or just one.Is it both or just the hogster?
I haven't noticed that feature on mine. A ftp reticle would be more accurate though.Does the yoter clip on have the stadiometric (sp?) ranging lines feature?
Native magnification is a function of the focal length of the front lens. The eyepiece is just a vehicle to view the video screen. If you change the magnification of the eyepiece you just increase or reduce the amount of the screen you see, not actually change the magnification.One other question: As I understand the scanner function, with the rear scanner eye piece in place, the unit is a 4x scanner. Could other eye pieces be used/made to make it a 2x scanner? Or a 6x scanner? I haven't seen different power eye pieces available. Why not?
Yes, but only while in scanner mode. I.E with the eyepiece attached.Does the yoter clip on have the stadiometric (sp?) ranging lines feature?
It has a usb port for power which i think does video out but i don't plan on doing that so i haven't really looked into it.That would be fantastic. Does the Yoter C have an aux port of any type? Maybe they do this in a Yoter C 2.0 or a Yoter C 60mm
I think any scope trying to focus on a screen 2" in front is going to exhibit some, so I don't think it's unique to the Yoter/G3 combo. I found an NX8 this morning. I'll report back.But bottomline, I can't talk about the Yotester situation as I've never touched one, so those who have with need to chime in to add to that data.
I think I need to go the opposite direction of Infinity. I don't fully understand it, so I'm going to see if I can borrow an NX8 and find out for myself.In regards to the parralax discussion on the day optic- why not set it to infinity like an I2 clip on?
I think this is the Key, but I'll find out.fixed parallax doesn't mesh well
2.5x on my G3 is where it starts to encroach on the edges of the screen. I think you will still be able to see the batt level and compass icons at 3x. The controls pop up in the middle of the screen. You should still be able to see the full menu and zero coordinates at 4 or 5x, but I'm not sure. I'm switching to the NX8 this week. Maybe somebody else can confirm.Looks like many are running 1-10s and 2.5-20 nx8s with these. What else is everyone running? Anyone running larger fov 3-15s or 3-18s with this still able to see all of the menu and controls on the low end?
Boy, talk about ripping the scab off and pouring salt in the wound.....So to steer this thread in a different direction, I currently am waiting on a Halo X50 come in stock but the more I read the more I think this super Yoder c would be as good or better? Any with experience on both the x50 and Yoter C? Coming from a Mkiii 60 currently
Yea not meaning to actually hijack the thread per say lol sorry if it came across as suchBoy, talk about ripping the scab off and pouring salt in the wound.....
Thanks buddy, lol
I have a "history" with N-Vision and an XRF. Now I have a Yoter-C. That's all that needs to be said about it in this thread. PM me if you haven't already seen the other ones.Yea not meaning to actually hijack the thread per say lol sorry if it came across as such
Not that I'm aware of. A short press of the rear button nuc's the background, whatever that means. I bet that's what you're seeing.Does the clip on have a camera function? I swear it seems like one of the buttons is taking photos. I'm not seeing anything about photo or video in the manual.
Not that I'm aware of. A short press of the rear button nuc's the background, whatever that means. I bet that's what you're seeing.
A long press with the lens cap closed nuc's the entire image.
Maybe somebody else can explain the difference?
Also, the buttons have different functions depending on if the clip-on adapter is installed vs the magnifier for scan mode.
If it was mine, I would.Sorry, other question I forgot: what's the verdict on using blue lock tite on the yoter c mount? I got the picatinny mount so the Bering habit of epoxying mounts on doesn't apply (my pic mount was loose in the bag). I know they say not to overtighten the mount screws but they don't say anything about thread locker in the manual. Blue lock tite always seems like a safe bet to me, but this is the most expensive single optic I've bought so I don't want to mess it up.
I shot the coyote last week at 402yds by dialing 1.2mils on the scope. I shot the one at 320 by holding .7mils. Those were with the day scope set on about 12x. As long as you do not use the digital zoom function of the Yoter-C, the dials and holds remain accurate.But once zeroed will dialing the scope still be accurate?
I shot the coyote last week at 402yds by dialing 1.2mils on the scope. I shot the one at 320 by holding .7mils. Those were with the day scope set on about 12x. As long as you do not use the digital zoom function of the Yoter-C, the dials and holds remain accurate.
If you digitally zoom a clip-on to 2x you need to double your dope. Multiply it by 4 for 4 times zoom. My zero changes by 4" and 8" when I digitally zoom the scope, so I don't use it that way.
You can also change this. You can adjust your POI for the different digital zoom levels so that it remains the same regardless of what digital zoom level it’s one.I shot the coyote last week at 402yds by dialing 1.2mils on the scope. I shot the one at 320 by holding .7mils. Those were with the day scope set on about 12x. As long as you do not use the digital zoom function of the Yoter-C, the dials and holds remain accurate.
If you digitally zoom a clip-on to 2x you need to double your dope. Multiply it by 4 for 4 times zoom. My zero changes by 4" and 8" when I digitally zoom the scope, so I don't use it that way.
Are you referring to using the zoom calibration function in the menu or setting different zero coordinates for each for each zoom level?You can also change this. You can adjust your POI for the different digital zoom levels so that it remains the same regardless of what digital zoom level it’s one.
Totally concur. It sounded to me though that he said his POI shifted 4” and 8” when he goes to 2x and 4x. If the image is calibrated at those digital magnifications, then the POI for where the crosshairs or center dot are shouldn’t change. Only your hold over value or what you dial. Which makes sense though. At 2x the image is twice as big so double your hold. At 4x etc.Chase,
You’re right that (on some thermals) making initial adjustments for each digital magnification level is important.
However, what is being discussed is that your normal day scope adjustments or holds for long shots will not be correct if your clip on is at any magnification other than 1. Your center crosshairs may be fine, but 2 mils is no longer 2 mils if your clip on is set to 2X or 4x magnification.
No, were talking about 2 separate things.Seems like we’re all saying the same thing, just slight misintrepations of what was written.
Yes, the day scope is zero'd to the rifle. I'm 99% certain that when you move the white reticle to the center of your day reticle on 1x it makes the change on 2x and 4x at the same time.Did you have a unified zero before you made that adjustment?