I finally got my YHM 7.62 can the one with the quick mount. I put it on my AR, it is a ARperformance upper that has a 20 in PacNor barrel 11twist and shoots the 6.8spc. My problem is when I put the can on I can not hit anything without the can it is very good shooter. I put my target on the a board roughly the size of a stop sign with the can on at 50-60 yds I dont even see hole. You take the can off still leaving the quick mount on and it is off of my 0 no more than a 1/2". Is this something I am doing I have shot about 20 rounds thru it and all Hornady 115s. Is it me, the Horandys, the gun or can, or combo of all. Just seems like it was a waste of my money and time if this is how its gonna be when shooting the can. any help?
-
Having trouble using the site?
Contact support
Suppressors Suppressor question
- Thread starter 6.81star
- Start date
-
- Tags
- question suppressor
Re: Suppressor question
Have you looked real close to make sure you're not getting baffle strikes on the can?
Have you looked real close to make sure you're not getting baffle strikes on the can?
Re: Suppressor question
So I'm understanding correctly...
You mounted a QD mount and it's not shooting as good as it was without the mount
...and
With the can mounted you aren't seeing any hits at 5-60yds?
So I'm understanding correctly...
You mounted a QD mount and it's not shooting as good as it was without the mount
...and
With the can mounted you aren't seeing any hits at 5-60yds?
Re: Suppressor question
Did Pac-nor threaded the barrel?
If so it may have been threaded with tolerances for a flash hider only,not for a suppresor mount.
It,s a good idea to get it checked.
As was posted take a look at the baffles for strikes.
Pay attention to the QD mount as well when screwing it on the barrel is their excesive run-out ?
If it's good try some other loads/brands or start reloading, good enough reason, right?
The added weight will change barrel harmonics, thus changing POI and accuracy.
The inabillaty to hit anything the size of a stop sign at that distance is definatlly not normal.
Did Pac-nor threaded the barrel?
If so it may have been threaded with tolerances for a flash hider only,not for a suppresor mount.
It,s a good idea to get it checked.
As was posted take a look at the baffles for strikes.
Pay attention to the QD mount as well when screwing it on the barrel is their excesive run-out ?
If it's good try some other loads/brands or start reloading, good enough reason, right?
The added weight will change barrel harmonics, thus changing POI and accuracy.
The inabillaty to hit anything the size of a stop sign at that distance is definatlly not normal.
Re: Suppressor question
I am not familiar with your specific can. I use AAC since they are just up the street. When I fist got my M4-2000 I had some end cap strikes and notices distinct key holing on the targets at 25-200 meters. Bust after 3 mags the end cap opened up and I began to get some consistency. Today I experience less than 1/2 MOA difference between shooting with the can or without, out to 400 Meters. Based on what you posted, its possible you are getting baffle strikes, end cap strikes, or even an improperly mounted QD system. AAC requires you use their flash hider for QD. there are some real issues with consistency in the threading of non mil spec barrels. How does you QD system work? is it a flash hider that replaced the original flash hider? If so I would look at removing it, cleaning the threaded area really good and remounting it. But more than likely, you are getting strikes inside the can or on the end cap. If can not figure it out, call the manufacturer and see what they say. If all else fails, move targets in close and start shooting until you get on the paper. if the holes are keyed, then you are striking in the can or end cap. Keep us posted on what comes of this.
I am not familiar with your specific can. I use AAC since they are just up the street. When I fist got my M4-2000 I had some end cap strikes and notices distinct key holing on the targets at 25-200 meters. Bust after 3 mags the end cap opened up and I began to get some consistency. Today I experience less than 1/2 MOA difference between shooting with the can or without, out to 400 Meters. Based on what you posted, its possible you are getting baffle strikes, end cap strikes, or even an improperly mounted QD system. AAC requires you use their flash hider for QD. there are some real issues with consistency in the threading of non mil spec barrels. How does you QD system work? is it a flash hider that replaced the original flash hider? If so I would look at removing it, cleaning the threaded area really good and remounting it. But more than likely, you are getting strikes inside the can or on the end cap. If can not figure it out, call the manufacturer and see what they say. If all else fails, move targets in close and start shooting until you get on the paper. if the holes are keyed, then you are striking in the can or end cap. Keep us posted on what comes of this.
Re: Suppressor question
I had a gunsmith install suppressor threads with the proper runout. I havent looked ot see if I am getting strikes the gun sat in the safe for some time and I thought maybe I lost the 0 but with the YHM mount that came with the can it still seems to be on 0 w/ the can off so I guess I must be striking the baffles. I ll look win I get home but is this correctable.
I had a gunsmith install suppressor threads with the proper runout. I havent looked ot see if I am getting strikes the gun sat in the safe for some time and I thought maybe I lost the 0 but with the YHM mount that came with the can it still seems to be on 0 w/ the can off so I guess I must be striking the baffles. I ll look win I get home but is this correctable.
Re: Suppressor question
Depends, If you can not see any strikes you have to shoot paper and see if you get key holes. But as i said call the can manufacturer. They get this stuff all the time. They will have a fix, it may be to send the can back or the gun and can to ensure proper alignment. You should end up ok.
Depends, If you can not see any strikes you have to shoot paper and see if you get key holes. But as i said call the can manufacturer. They get this stuff all the time. They will have a fix, it may be to send the can back or the gun and can to ensure proper alignment. You should end up ok.
Re: Suppressor question
Never even thought about it but I left the crush washer on. YHM said to take it off and try it again if that dont work send it in. He said it wouldnt seat flat and it would throw the barrel and suppressor out of concentricity.
Never even thought about it but I left the crush washer on. YHM said to take it off and try it again if that dont work send it in. He said it wouldnt seat flat and it would throw the barrel and suppressor out of concentricity.
Re: Suppressor question
Definatly no crush washer to be used. Take the bolt and carrier out of the upper, mount the silencer, look through the bore with your eye, center the muzzle exit in relation to the chamber, if you can see any part of the silencer that is where the bullet is hitting and the barrel threading job is not straight. or the shoulder behind the threads is not square.
With your set up I would expect maybe a 4" shift in Point of Aim at 100yds to be normal.
Definatly no crush washer to be used. Take the bolt and carrier out of the upper, mount the silencer, look through the bore with your eye, center the muzzle exit in relation to the chamber, if you can see any part of the silencer that is where the bullet is hitting and the barrel threading job is not straight. or the shoulder behind the threads is not square.
With your set up I would expect maybe a 4" shift in Point of Aim at 100yds to be normal.
