Tacoma CV boots blow

[TurdFerguson]

21 taco blew the drivers side boot. Im assuming its been blown for a few weeks. Toyota dealer caught it/wants to replace it for (474) new boot only (haha suck my dick) local mechanic recommends a new axel 565 for all work.

Im sure I can change the boot myself but if the axel is fucked regardless I guess a new axel right? What would I damage if i run it for a bit if I'm getting a new axel anyways?

 

[fpgt72]

If the joint itself is....clunky....it should be replaced. It will really depend on how long it has been open to the elements, and what kind of driving you do. Lots of rain or gravel dust, you might as well replace it. If everything looks fine and feels nice and tight just do a new boot.

The other line of thinking is, well hell you are that far in to just do a boot you might as well just replace the thing. That is where I would lean.

 

[Kamerad]

A few weeks? Unless you’ve been mudding, or in very dirty/dusty environments, you may only need a new boot.

 

[thejeep]

Do it yourself. It'll be fun. Axle work is always a good time.
Go to the yota parts dept at the dealer. Ask to see the fsm parts schematic they have on the computer there. Have them pull it up on the screen. It have the directions on how to take it apart and put it back together with torque values. Then print it.

 

[Hobo Hilton]

Change the boot yourself and drive on.
If a vehicle is to the point of replacing the entire axle then it is just a matter of time before it becomes a money pit.

 

[chevy_man]

They're counting on you not having the correct tools.
To replace the boots properly on a Chevy you need the special pliers for a crimp ring. I can only assume Toyota has some magical clamp that needs a $100 tool also.

Or you just go to O'Reilly's and buy a $100 lifetime warranty Axle and exchange it every time it makes noise.
As a highschool kid they tended to not last more than a year or two. Being a grown-up they're much closer to lifetime now....

 

[The D]

If you’ve replaced an axle boot before just replace it yourself but check the others for cracks that may have started but not opened up yet

If this will be your first and you don’t have the time to be slow/careful with a first time job then pick whichever of the two options you prefer

 

[rijndael]

To replace the boots properly on a Chevy you need the special pliers for a crimp ring. I can only assume Toyota has some magical clamp that needs a $100 tool also.

The $25 Amazon tool is good enough for an occasional boot.

 

[chevy_man]

Change the boot yourself and drive on.
It a vehicle is to the point of replacing the entire axle then it is just a matter of time before it becomes a money pit.

You sound fun. "broke something, get rid of the entire 3 year old truck!"

I guess I'm also the type that right now has 2 transmissions on my shop floor from 2 of my rigs. One I was quoted $7500-9000 from 5 different shops so I ordered a $4000 reman with a shift kit and saved myself the difference in a weekend.
The other one isn't worth $4k, so I ordered a rebuild kit and a new torque converter for $600 and I'm teaching my kids how an automatic transmission is rebuilt over the next few months.

They both have over 250000 miles. But they're paid for and cheap to drive. Just can't be lazy and pay a shop $250/hr.

 

[Hayden#69]

Is it lifted? This is a common problem on lifted toyotas. To change the boot you have to dissassemble and be sure each ball bearing goes back into the same grove in the knuckle it came out of. Replacing the boot is time consumming because of the dissasembly of the knuckle. If it was mine...[ I got 3 toyotas ] I would replace the axle, and then redo the boot on the old one when I had time. Then you got a spare axle which is not a bad thing. Oh Toyota parts all the way around!!

Disclaimer: Ive never done one but I have looked into lifting my first gen Tundra and my 21 4 Runner and have spent a TON of hrs reading about the issues of lifted Toyotas.

Hayden.

 

[calling4life]

Thing is, the Toyota CVs are 100 times the quality of China axles, they are expensive, but they are far better. So, yea, you could get China axles and even free replacements on them, but unless you like replacing the things, that ain't gonna be fun.

If you're lifted you need to buy clamps with rolled edges that you can tighten yourself on the CV boots, I have a lifted FJ Cruiser, had to do it myself and there has been no issues since, which I think I did this in about 2015.

Lotus Development had heavy duty axles for the Toyotas but I don't know what's going on with their site?

CVJReman sells rebuilt actual Toyota axles at reasonable prices, though they only go up to 2020, I don't know if 2021 had different axles so you may just contact them and see. Their best option, if you don't have long travel, will be about $500-$550 including the core charge, per side. So if you send the core back you get $180'ish back, but you'll need to pay to ship it. This is your inexpensive but still good option.


Here's another option, yea, $2k and you'll install them yourself, though these things are supposedly built in crazy fashion... so, buy once cry once?
This is your, "I want to destroy my Dif, driveshaft, transfer case or so on instead of my CV axle" option.

 

[Makinchips208]

Do a solid axle swap. Kiss your cv axle woes goodbye.

 

[Hobo Hilton]

You sound fun. "broke something, get rid of the entire 3 year old truck!"

I guess I'm also the type that right now has 2 transmissions on my shop floor from 2 of my rigs. One I was quoted $7500-9000 from 5 different shops so I ordered a $4000 reman with a shift kit and saved myself the difference in a weekend.
The other one isn't worth $4k, so I ordered a rebuild kit and a new torque converter for $600 and I'm teaching my kids how an automatic transmission is rebuilt over the next few months.

They both have over 250000 miles. But they're paid for and cheap to drive. Just can't be lazy and pay a shop $250/hr.

I am fun.
Going to give S3th credit for this quote:
"American's would rather open their wallet before they open their tool box."

 

[calling4life]

Do a solid axle swap. Kiss your cv axle woes goodbye.

Here's what RCV (Company that makes those $2k CV axles) has to say about that. This is from the description for those very axles.

" Even if you have big tires and big power there are no worries. Ultimate IFS CV Axles are low maintenance, and are backed with a "No Questions Asked" limited lifetime warranty against breakage. Our IFS CV axles meet and exceed the strength of a straight axle swap, while allowing you to maintain the traction, smoothness and control of your IFS."


And $2k, while expensive, would be way less than a solid axles swap, but also, $2k, for the pair, tends to only be about twice as much as the Reman axles from CVJreman.

It's a hit to the wallet, but not exactly horrible.

Though again, them holding up means that the abuse you're exerting on them ends up getting transferred elsewhere, though may not be enough to damage those components... all depends upon what a guy is doing.


I had never seen these axles from RCV performance, but I'm going to look at them more, myself, for my FJ, they do seem like the "buy once, cry once" option. But I want to see who's running them on their Toyotas and how they are actually performing, though there doesn't seem to be any doubt that that company knows how to do CV axles in general.

 

[chevy_man]

I am fun.
Going to give S3th credit for this quote:
"American's would rather open their wallet before they open their tool box."

I know. $2k in tools has saved me $20k in mechanics bills.

I encourage people to learn. How hopeless are we that we've come from owners manuals with repair instructions to warnings not to drink the fluids.

 

[TurdFerguson]

71k miles, no lift. Used to commute to work daily, sometimes works around the family farm. Its been the worst Tacoma, Ive had… New radiator, cluster, ac controls ect. No where near as nice as my 2011 tacoma. I hate my dealer, radiator blew at 25k not covered under factory warranty.

I might as well go new axel, I’ll have about 4 days off at the end of the month. Probably change it myself….

 

[thejeep]

Do a solid axle swap. Kiss your cv axle woes goodbye.

Unless you replace with a Toyota axle. Who wants U s anyway

 

[chevy_man]

71k miles, no lift. Used to commute to work daily, sometimes works around the family farm. Its been the worst Tacoma, Ive had… New radiator, cluster, ac controls ect. No where near as nice as my 2011 tacoma. I hate my dealer, radiator blew at 25k not covered under factory warranty.

I might as well go new axel, I’ll have about 4 days off at the end of the month. Probably change it myself….

That's less reliable than any of my 250k+ mile Chevy's.

Seems like every one needs a radiator at about 200k, and the odd things here and there, but I've never had one require anything more than oil changes for the first 100k.

 

[BScore]

80 bucks for a mid range front axle off of RockAuto.

 

[n2ishun]

Easy job, used to do them all the time.
About 1-1.5 hours for a pro.....3-4 for a home job.

 

[FatBoy]

My 2007 FJ rips the inner boot regularly. I have no idea how, but I’ve had three axles done in the last 3 years. Last one was in the truck less than 3k, ripped. No idea how this keeps happening. Doesn’t look like anything is touching through tte range of motion . Only on 32s so no lift.

As for the $2k axles, I’m not sure. I’d replace an axle all damn day before I broke a front diff. Axles are expendable.

 

[kenny1773]

If you have not ruined the joint (no noise and it's smooth) you would be way better off to replace the boot. Clean it out well, repack with proper grease, put on a new boot and be happy.

Replacement axels are chinese turds and will not last even half the life of an original Toyota axel.

Sure new sounds good, but in this case it isn't. This goes against every logical thought you have, but its true.

 

[ggmanning]

You can buy offroad replacement (all-pro) boots that are extended furthur up the axle with an ring type spacer around the portion of the boot fins nearest the diff. Keeps the top of the ribs from rubbing on a lifted truck. You can google "boot extension mod" and use regular OEM boots. Another option are CVJ axles with extended inner red boots (stronger) already built....fairly expensive but are good rebuilt to new oem axles and way cheaper than Toyota new. An easy job replacing the whole built axle and they are super durable if your joint is boogered beyond repacking. My truck does have a mild OMEmu lift. Last one I worked over that I drive now (03) I used CVJ axles with the red inner boot for offroad/lifts. They have been flawless and get used a good bit off pavement.

 

[TurdFerguson]

Toyota sells a reman cvt axel for 169.00. I assume this would beca stupid/no-go decision?

 

[Chevoke]

Been running my 98 tacome for about 40k miles with both front boots blown. I shoot a few pumps of grease I. Them every month or two and keep going. Central Texas, dusty roads, mostly county road driving and pasture driving. Keeps going.
On my side by side I would say replace entire axle, it’s cheaper. On a Toyota, keep driving.