Technical Inspection of a trade-in Police Sniper

[kalashnikev]

I know "TI" for most of us means lay out the BII/ COEI and make sure to note all shortages... but what are the real points of inspection when you come across a used rifle of unknown round count?

I had an M24 in the Army that I picked up from the TPE warehouse at Anaconda. It stacked M118LR under a dime at 100m, and I took it out on a few day LP/OPs. I am not a school-trained sniper, but I can estimate range, and I understand how to use a mil-dot reticle. I know almost nothing.

I picked up this old fugg-a-lugg sniper rifle because the HS-precision stock triggered some nostalgia. It is a short action Remington 700 with a random admin # electropenciled onto the left side, and well worn finish on the bolt. The bore looks good.

I'm not cloning of course, but I'd like to have the short action version of the same style of base and an optic that generally conforms to the same footprint.

As far as inspecting- what should I look at? The crown appears undamaged. The trigger seems safe, but extremely light and with almost no travel. I already did a search and didn't find exactly what I was looking for.

Any help is appreciated!
(...including, What is this? an SPS? Barrel code is EK- OCT 2016 or OCT 1990?)

 

[roostercogburn98]

Mo better pics

 

[Aftermath]

Yes. Pull the bolt and take good close-ups from all angles.
Same for rifle and get some up close pics of action.
If possible, take it out of the stock and mo betta pics there too.

 

[kalashnikev]

Sorry for the delay, and thanks for responding- busy week.

Here is the crown:

Gouge on the receiver where I guess the base was pryed off? There is a raised edge of funk that did not come off with a CLP soak or acetone:

Bolt head:

Bolt Body (right):

Bolt Body (left), electropenciled SN matches the receiver:

 

[Long Range 338]

I know nothing as well but just making a couple of observations:

-Is that a shadow on the action below the scratched off paint or is the action actually dented or is that the gouge you speak of?
-the bolt face looks like its had some hard use specifically where the groove is odd shaped in the bolt face.

Looks like she still shoots well. Maybe is just got beat around a fair amount.

What do you mean here? Is this a long action? You'll have to use the base that fits the action. The M24 used a Leupold optic, are you wanting something similar?

I'd like to have the short action version of the same style of base and an optic that generally conforms to the same footprint.

 

[sinister]

Kev, you have a Remington 700 Varmint (or an SPS Tactical if it's shorter than 24 inches) dropped into an after-market H-S M24-style stock.

Looks like it was an honest work gun, and by the way it groups has plenty of life left in it. They tend to shoot 168-grain Fed Match really well. If you know someone with a borescope it can tell you how much throat wear it might have on it, but the real indicator of how well she shoots is by its groups.

How long is the barrel? Close the bolt and see by carefully running a cleaning rod in from the front.

The bluing wear on the bolt face and body means she was shot but probably not abused. Can you take pictures of the rear of the bolt lugs, please? That will show if both are bearing about the same or if one is seating more than the other.

It looks like the previous scope mount may have been bedded to the action (with a fiberglass bedding agent). Use a sharp knife and you can chip it off.

I'd get a good one-piece Picatinny rail (Badger, Nightforce, Near, or Murphy) and mount a good scope.

If you don't like the current trigger you can always replace with a good after-market.

 

[kalashnikev]

I know nothing as well but just making a couple of observations:

-Is that a shadow on the action below the scratched off paint or is the action actually dented or is that the gouge you speak of?
-the bolt face looks like its had some hard use specifically where the groove is odd shaped in the bolt face.

1) Looks like she still shoots well. Maybe is just got beat around a fair amount.

What do you mean here? Is this a long action? You'll have to use the base that fits the action.

6) The M24 used a Leupold optic, are you wanting something similar?

Kev, you have a Remington 700 Varmint (or an SPS Tactical if it's shorter than 24 inches) dropped into an after-market H-S M24-style stock.

1) Looks like it was an honest work gun, and by the way it groups has plenty of life left in it. They tend to shoot 168-grain Fed Match really well. If you know someone with a borescope it can tell you how much throat wear it might have on it, but the real indicator of how well she shoots is by its groups.

2) How long is the barrel? Close the bolt and see by carefully running a cleaning rod in from the front.

3) The bluing wear on the bolt face and body means she was shot but probably not abused. Can you take pictures of the rear of the bolt lugs, please? That will show if both are bearing about the same or if one is seating more than the other.

4) It looks like the previous scope mount may have been bedded to the action (with a fiberglass bedding agent). Use a sharp knife and you can chip it off.

5) I'd get a good one-piece Picatinny rail (Badger, Nightforce, Near, or Murphy) and mount a good scope.

If you don't like the current trigger you can always replace with a good after-market.

1) Oh, sorry for the confusion- that was my M24 in Iraq- not relevant to this rifle/ this thread, don't want to seem like I'm stroking myself... but basically wanted to convey that I'm ignorant but not dumb or retarded when it comes to lead on target. If this is capable of approaching the same performance with ammunition I can just-go-buy in a box, I'll be doing a dance up and down the line.

2) 24"

3) Will do. Do all the SPS' have the bolt electropenciled with the SN? I had heard that a 700P was "more special" than an SPS, but I know that those had longer barrels. I was hoping maybe this was something similar.

4) I actually wasn't sure if that was a "thing" but it does seem that the scope base was glued on based on the raised bead and the gouge. Too bad they didn't just leave it... I'm missing some screws there too.

5) Yeah, I'd like to get a one-piece base that is relieved in the middle like the M24 vs. a full, thick bridge.

6) Yeah, I'm not married to the mil-dot reticle or 3.5x10, but I know I at least want a 40mm objective.

 

[Aftermath]

Bedding a scope base is real common and LOTS of guys do try to glue the thing in place. Personally, I see nothing wrong with epoxying a scope base to the receiver but what do I know. Yeah, too bad it wasn't just left on there.

As @sinister says, get a real good pic of the bolt lugs where they mate to the receiver.

So far, the only thing I see, and it may be some photographic issue, it looks like the firing pin hole is oblong. That's not really a big deal as long as the thing is lighting the primers every time and is an easy fix to have it bushed. Otherwise, It looks like a rifle that has been used but not used up. If the price is right, buy it. Later on, it can become a donor action for something else or be rebuilt.

 

[supercorndogs]

The serial number might help you figure out what it is or isn't. I can't make it out in the picture. Did they make that style bolt handle in 2005? Because the SPS didn't come around until 2005. It looks to me like there is some wear on the primary extraction cam which would almost rule out post 2005 also.

 

[djarecke]

Is that gun from Texas? I might recognize it. If not, I’ve seen ones just like it hammer with 168 Federal and 175 Black Hills. I’d shoot it and see how it works for you.

 

[david walter]

It’s not like anyone is going to shoot out a 308 barrel just firing proficiency practice.

I’d inspect for obvious damage and clean the bore and go forth and do God’s work.

 

[DFOOSKING]

It used to be you could call Remington Customer Service directly. Tell them your serial number and they would tell you exactly what the rifle was when it left the factory.

 

[redneckbmxer24]

That’s going to be an October 1990 and judging by the finish it’s a police model or PSS/700P. The only other thing it could have possibly been as far as barreled action would be a VS but they had jeweled bolts. That bold handle style is early so no way it could be a 2016. It’s 100% not an SPS model.

If nothing appears obviously fucked up the only inspection I would do is seeing how it shoot FGMM. They’re great rifles.

 

[sinister]

In 2004 the USAMU turned in most of our National Match M14s to Anniston Army Depot and received Vietnam-era Remington 700 M40 sniper rifles and actions in return (we think they came from Air Force Vietnam Base Defense stocks).

The Custom Rifle Shop evaluated the rifles and re-stocked them into the same M24-style H-S Precision stocks as yours, Kev, with the addition of H-S single-stack detachable magazines. Those rifles that didn't have them got iron sight mounts attached. These were, in effect, short-action M24s to give out as loaners for those Soldiers who had traveled to Benning to shoot in the Army Long-Range Championships. Those matches were shot at 600, 800, 900, and 1,000 yards.

If you look carefully at the photo below you can see the difference between the Remington PSS/Varmint profile barrels and the heavier M24s.

We mounted Leupold M3LRs that had originally been in a batch Badger Ordnance and GA Precision were going to use for a Jordan contract that got canceled.

 

[kalashnikev]

As @sinister says, get a real good pic of the bolt lugs where they mate to the receiver.

So far, the only thing I see, and it may be some photographic issue, it looks like the firing pin hole is oblong. If the price is right, buy it. Later on, it can become a donor action for something else or be rebuilt.

Coming up in a few.

I already snagged it of the 'broker and might have paid a bit over. I was writing a Data Science thesis and doing some additional "research" on the side, just obsessively watching interesting auctions on my breaks. I missed out on a few things I should have pursued. This was one I actually went for out of nostalgia, but the condition was quite a bit rougher than the pics made it seem... that's why I'm interested in doing some checks before I start piecing it together.

Is that gun from Texas? I might recognize it. If not, I’ve seen ones just like it hammer with 168 Federal and 175 Black Hills. I’d shoot it and see how it works for you.

I'm not sure, but the dealer is in TN and gets a lot of Police trade-in guns and also evidence guns. I've never seen a 5-digit admin number electro-penciled... but hmmmm.

That’s going to be an October 1990 and judging by the finish it’s a police model or PSS/700P.

If nothing appears obviously fucked up the only inspection I would do is seeing how it shoot FGMM. They’re great rifles.

Awesome! That's what I was thinking and also hoping.

The Custom Rifle Shop evaluated the rifles and re-stocked them into the same M24-style H-S Precision stocks as yours, Kev, with the addition of H-S single-stack detachable magazines. Those rifles that didn't have them got iron sight mounts attached. These were, in effect, short-action M24s to give out as loaners for those Soldiers who had traveled to Benning to shoot in the Army Long-Range Championships.

Nice! I appreciate that there is some Army reference for a rifle of this type! I still swear I'm not "cloning..." and at the same time asking, "Why can't I get Uncle Mike's swivels that are parkereized like normal?"

That's the cheap part- I will be watching the FS section to get a mount and an appropriate optic on rings soon.

I guess Quantico is the nearest good place to go stretch the legs.

 

[supercorndogs]

Actions and rifles with 5 digit serial numbers are worth more.

 

[kalashnikev]

Gouge and glue:

I'm sure it's not too bad.

Bolt face:

I guess the FP hole is a little egged.

Lug area:

Kind of chunked near the ejector:

 

[kalashnikev]

Actions and rifles with 5 digit serial numbers are worth more.

The serial number is an alpha + 7 digits on this rifle.

This one additionally has a 5-digit admin number electropencileld onto the receiver.

Maybe the agency had 10,000 items... or maybe they lost a 5-digit rifle and were faking the funk on this one (like with NODs? )

...or maybe it was seized as evidence and the officer really liked the scope and base.

 

[Aftermath]

The area of the lugs that we all want to see is the other end, the end closest to the handle. Those faces mate to the receiver when you close the bolt...they sort of push the bolt toward the muzzle as they lock in. We want to see how they show wear and how even they do contact the receiver.
EDITED to fix a typo

 

[sinister]

Be awfully careful.

Sniper Rifle Psychosis is an insidious mental affliction related to Black Rifle Disease -- it begins with an unsuspecting shooter buying a fairly innocuous Remington 700 or Salvage 110, and worsens as the patient invests money and time to incrementally improve the weapon to get what he eventually wanted.

Friends and care-givers often see loved ones descend into madness while humming or singing Johnny Cash's "I built it one piece at a time."

 

[Rust]

That bedding on the scope mount may be due to a problem I had with my 700P.

When trying to install a one piece 20 minute mount, when the front screws were tightened there was a noticeable gap between the rear of the mount and the rear receiver bridge. Switching to a two piece 20 minute mount, turns out the front and rear receiver screw holes weren't exactly in line, so I ended up doing a lot of lapping to get decent scope mounting without stressing the scope. While I was at it as added insurance I bedded/glued the mounts using high shear strength golf club epoxy. Easy enough to remove with a heat gun, at about 300 degrees it lets go. Well, not planning on ever pulling the mounts anyway.

About that ridge of goop left, MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) will dissolve damn near anything but watch out for fumes and its flash point is something like -70 degrees. Don't get it on your skin, it will instantly dehydrate and remove all natural oils.

 

[david walter]

Burris signature XTR rings are the cure for this.

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Nylon inserts to add inflection or to make alignment easier without stressing the scope tube.

 

[supercorndogs]

I would have bedded the scope base.

 

[kalashnikev]

The area of the lugs that we all want to see is the other end, the end closest to the handle. Those faces mate to the receiver when you close the bolt...they sort of push the bolt toward the muzzle as they lock in. We want to see how they show wear and how even they do contact the receiver.
EDITED to fix a typo

Ahhh... I didn't even know that. I guess they're all important, but I thought the front ones were more important.

Rear lugs:

Small peen (LOL):

When trying to install a one piece 20 minute mount, when the front screws were tightened there was a noticeable gap between the rear of the mount and the rear receiver bridge.

About that ridge of goop left, MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) will dissolve damn near anything...

I think I'm going to do a 0/ flat-mount. I like one of the PRI SA ones, and I like PRI, so I'll probably go that way.

On the goop, I need to do some naval jelly stuff on a different project, so I'll probably suit up, open the windows, and do a mega-HAZMAT day in here soon.

I would have bedded the scope base.

I think I want the new one to be also. I'll read up on it, or look for someone experienced around NoVA.

 

[MikeMiller]

I was Police Sniper in 1980’s and 1990’s

I ended up
Purchasing new rifles for the department every couple of years after that until 2005 when I retired from PD

That rifle looks like many I saw in the 1990’s and the etched number on bolt body was common on the police weapons I saw

The crap on top is where someone tried to remove an epoxied scope base without heat. We bonded a lot of them back then. I still do

 

[Aftermath]

Ahhh... I didn't even know that. I guess they're all important, but I thought the front ones were more important.

Rear lugs:

Rear face of the front lugs. If you pull the bolt and then look at it in the same position it sits as when you have your face on the stock, that face of the FRONT lugs. The face of the front lugs that is closest to the bolt handle, your nose, etc.

I am out. Good luck.

 

[kalashnikev]

Rear face of the front lugs. If you pull the bolt and then look at it in the same position it sits as when you have your face on the stock, that face of the FRONT lugs. The face of the front lugs that is closest to the bolt handle, your nose, etc.

I am out. Good luck.

THAT makes a lot more sense!

Not near the bolt handle or my nose though...

Rear face of the front lugs:

 

[sinister]

Rear face of the front lugs:

They look pretty good with even bearing on both.