The Fix from Q

I realize the bolt lift will be on the heavier side only being a 45 degree throw compared to a 90 but is anyone having intermittent heavy lift after firing? I seem to recall that being one of the original issues. My load is Hornady brass, 143eldx and 42.5 H4350 so nothing crazy. Maybe 1 in 10-20 will be stiffer than the others but they chamber fine. No real pressure signs.
 
My two biggest concerns are
1- turn around time. I love shooting it, just not impressed with the bolf loft
2-looking like an idiot and then telling me it’s normal and to stop being a picky bitch

Mine went back a few weeks ago for the bolt lift after they issued me an RMA label.

It arrived to them on a Tuesday and they didn't ship it out until the following Wednesday, after I had inquired on the status. Don't expect a ton of communication about it from them, and the phone number on the label they issued me didn't work (I can't remember if it had a full mailbox or was disconnected).

And to your concern about looking like an idiot - it's a $3k rifle. I don't care that they are comparing it to how much a deal it is over custom $5k+ rifles, it's still a lot of scratch, so without being too much of an entitled twit I'd say you can definitely be a little picky - it's not a $500 R700 SPS from the Dicks Sporting Goods shelf.

Not trying to be negative here - I LOVE the rifle and it did come back to me from them with an improved bolt. I have only had a couple boxes of ammo through it at this point but am happy with what I have seen so far. I am willing to give them a bit of a pass on the CS experience because they are still pretty small and have a huge demand. But I'd love to see them step that game up at some point.
 
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There is a QD attachment point built into the stock.

I can’t speak as far as turn-around on sending one back, but if it’s that big of a concern, it doesn’t hurt to send it in.
Playing with mine when I got it, I thought the bolt lift was heavy, but after dry firing it a bunch and running ~200 rounds through it, I feel like it was me not being used to a 45deg bolt.
If you’re worried about looking like a fool, I’d dry fire it a bunch to get used to it and then maybe hit the range and see if it helps.
I have approx 200 rounds through it, give or take. I would have to count my remind to get an exact count, but let’s say 180 rounds for argument sake. I’m not sure dry firing would really help. That’s on top of scores of dry firing. Do you any more would help?
 
Thanks to Dave, I have the cut down in hand. Went with the standard 5/8x24 with 90 shoulder. With the MAMS on the 16in 308 and a rugged brake on the 17in it's about the same overall length. Taking 5 inches off lost 9.94oz of weight.
 

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The barrels are exactly 16 oz difference. Well 15.98 oz. So 1 lb. All disassembled. Ready to go back together.

Now it's back together. So easy! Except got how dang tight the rail is. Super tight tolerances. Which is a good thing!
 

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Well let's just say I have 3 of the ZP5's now.. so I really like it. Other then the TT525p I like the Minox the best. I still do own a couple kahles K624i optics but I like the Minox better. I have found that for the money it's hard to beat.
 
I have approx 200 rounds through it, give or take. I would have to count my remind to get an exact count, but let’s say 180 rounds for argument sake. I’m not sure dry firing would really help. That’s on top of scores of dry firing. Do you any more would help?
I’m not sure if anymore would help. Not sure if the dry firing made the bolt light, just trained me to get used to it.
 
Finally. That price is taking the piss though.
The sling mount looks basic and cheap compared to the one they previewed with the original rifle. Shame. But it’s a necessity so whatever.

I was thinking of going Mlok for this very reason as I already have massive Mlok support for rail sections, and QD sling mounts, etc. But what I would do with the factory rail, and the resell value on that rail is about non existent. I get the weight saving they were after and wanting to sell their own attachment parts etc... But it's 2018 and Mlok is just about the standard at this point. I may snag up the Mlok rail and then I'll be able to use the new Magpul Mlok direct attach bipod when it comes out. And save myself another 30 plus shipping on another sling mount that I don't need..
 
I got a quick chance to throw a few rounds down range. Just 5 this morning quick. 143gr ELDx factory ammo out if the 17 inch 6.5cm. With a KAC QDC suppressor on it. No hard bolt lift at all. Barrel was cleaned and slightly damp clp patch was run down the bore yesterday.

5 round Average 2505
SD 5.5
Min 2501
Max 2514
 

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I’d be really curious to see the 130s out of it. The 143 is one of the heavier projectiles. I’d bet the 130s are 2650

I'll have to see. My buddy has a 24 inch Tikka tac a1 in 6.5 and he gets 2760 average with the Berger 130s. I am thinking I'm going to less then 2650... Only one way to find out.. I'll swing by the LGS and see if they have a box and I'll try them out for ya.
 
Dude you’re pretty alright man. I appreciate all this testing, you know, for science :geek:

Id like to increase my prediction of the 130s to 2700

I also have a Cabela's about 25 min from me,and so I may swing by there later today. I'm surprised the 143 vs 140 was a 60fps jump. I know the box velocity only shows 10fps difference between them. I thought they were pretty close to the same round. Apparently not.


Here are 3 more ELDX 143s I just shot, in the photo attached..

2503 average
2506
2497
2506
SD 5.9
 

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I was hoping for a little more velocity with the 143s, from everyones comments. But it's right at 2500 as I thought. And I added an inch of barrel from that assessment. Would have been even less with the 16 inch barrel. Maybe it will speed up as this is a new barrel. It handles so much better. With a suppressor on it it feels identical to the 22 inch barrel without a can. Or very close to it. If that puts it into perspective. I'm happy with the chop, but my use may just be target shooting with it. Probably shouldn't have bought a case of 143 ELDx ?

Inital impression for hunting, this will be a good preditor gun and a whitetail deer gun or mule deer doe. Don't think I'll be using it for mule deer bucks or cow elk with the 143s at that velocity. If I had 6.5 reloading components and support, I would most likely get some more juice out of it.

With my very, very limited 11 rounds through it now, I don't have much more to say until I get some more time behind the gun.


Edit... Stopped by and called a few different LGS and Cabela's. Nothing on the shelves for 6.5. some nosler trophy ammo at 55 bucks a box. PASS! Will be a little bit before I get into any 130 Berger's. Unless someone wants to send me some.
 
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Than
I was hoping for a little more velocity with the 143s, from everyones comments. But it's right at 2500 as I thought. And I added an inch of barrel from that assessment. Would have been even less with the 16 inch barrel. Maybe it will speed up as this is a new barrel. It handles so much better. With a suppressor on it it feels identical to the 22 inch barrel without a can. Or very close to it. If that puts it into perspective. I'm happy with the chop, but my use may just be target shooting with it. Probably shouldn't have bought a case of 143 ELDx ?

Inital impression for hunting, this will be a good preditor gun and a whitetail deer gun or mule deer doe. Don't think I'll be using it for mule deer bucks or cow elk with the 143s at that velocity. If I had 6.5 reloading components and support, I would most likely get some more juice out of it.

With my very, very limited 11 rounds through it now, I don't have much more to say until I get some more time behind the gun.


Edit... Stopped by and called a few different LGS and Cabela's. Nothing on the shelves for 6.5. some nosler trophy ammo at 55 bucks a box. PASS! Will be a little bit before I get into any 130 Berger's. Unless someone wants to send me some.
Thanks for the testing! Any chance you know the velocity differences between the 22” barrel and your 17”?
I may have to order a 16” or 17” barrel for hunting, I did end up getting the proof barrel, just because they ran out of bartlein barrels. Haven’t had a chance to play with it though.
 
I was thinking of going Mlok for this very reason as I already have massive Mlok support for rail sections, and QD sling mounts, etc. But what I would do with the factory rail, and the resell value on that rail is about non existent. I get the weight saving they were after and wanting to sell their own attachment parts etc... But it's 2018 and Mlok is just about the standard at this point. I may snag up the Mlok rail and then I'll be able to use the new Magpul Mlok direct attach bipod when it comes out. And save myself another 30 plus shipping on another sling mount that I don't need..

Pretty much exactly what I’ve been thinking.
All the apparent benefits of q-sert are mute if nobody makes accessories for it and it takes you a year to bring out your own qd sling mount.
I want the magpul bipod and a direct flashlight mount like the proctor plmd. It just sucks it’s going to cost that much for the rail and then I’ve got nobody to sell it to.
 
My 20" 6.5 fix throws 130 bergers at just over 2700. 2717, if I recall correctly.

Sometimes I forget that I have the kestrel app on my phone. The fix is 2720.
 
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My 20" 6.5 fix throws 130 bergers at just over 2700. 2717, if I recall correctly.

Sometimes I forget that I have the kestrel app on my phone. The fix is 2720.

Well I forgot to check Walmart and sure enough... 2 boxes of Federal 130 Bergers.

Interesting results with 5 rounds before it got dark here this evening...

17 inch 6.5cm barrel w/Kac QDC suppressor

Average 2693
SD 34.1
Min 2648
Max 2733

First round was 2690 that you can't see on the photo of the display.
 

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I'm very surprised at those speeds from your 17" tube, but that SD is way worse than mine.

Also, my Fix does not shoot the 130 bergers very well. I'm curious to hear what kind of accuracy you get with yours. I'm at bout 1 moa, where the 308 barrel is about 5/8's. Those same 130's shoot 4/8's and 5/8's in my Blaser though.
 
I'm very surprised at those speeds from your 17" tube, but that SD is way worse than mine.

Also, my Fix does not shoot the 130 bergers very well. I'm curious to hear what kind of accuracy you get with yours. I'm at bout 1 moa, where the 308 barrel is about 5/8's. Those same 130's shoot 4/8's and 5/8's in my Blaser though.

I'm surprised also. But that Extreme spread of 81 and SD of 34 are unacceptable in my book. I'll shoot them for groups over the holiday and see how they do accuracy wise. But either way if they show that big of SD and ES I wouldn't shoot them past a few hundred yards. Have some 147 eldm's also to shoot too. Seems like for velocity and SD it likes the 140 eldm so far the best with my limited sample rounds through it.
 
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Gents. Handload the 130 TMKs and go 2700+ out of a shorty barrel. I bet the 123 SMK will be almost 2800 out of 16. I’m telling you this short 6.5 thing is legit. Q should offer at minimum an 18 inch. I’d prefer a 16.5.

Also the 120 Amax
 
Anyone had issues w/ the receiver screws holding the down the rails seizing up? Went to swap to a shorter rail and both of the receiver screws (handguard screws were fine) were super super tight. One of them completely broke and then rounded off :(

I had taken them off before to swap barrels, and torqued them back to 35 in-lbs. I think I fucked up leaving them dry.
 
Anyone had issues w/ the receiver screws holding the down the rails seizing up? Went to swap to a shorter rail and both of the receiver screws (handguard screws were fine) were super super tight. One of them completely broke and then rounded off :(

I had taken them off before to swap barrels, and torqued them back to 35 in-lbs. I think I fucked up leaving them dry.

No issues here. At 40 inch pounds it's really not much force at all. They should come right out with no real force. To strip the head and to break one completely off would have had to exceed the torque spec greatly.

The TQ spec is with dry screws. If you would lube them or use locktite, it increases that torque number. You sure nothing was cross threaded and installed to proper torque?
 
Yeah, pretty sure. Only the receiver screws were that tight, and I can confirm no loctite or anything.

The receiver holes are aluminum, as opposed to the rails which have steel inserts thus my 'seized' diagnosis. I'm probably going to mill the screw out and will likely have to helicoil the holes. If I had it to do over again, I would have definitely tossed a little anti-seize on the screws for good measure.
 
Yeah, pretty sure. Only the receiver screws were that tight, and I can confirm no loctite or anything.

The receiver holes are aluminum, as opposed to the rails which have steel inserts thus my 'seized' diagnosis. I'm probably going to mill the screw out and will likely have to helicoil the holes. If I had it to do over again, I would have definitely tossed a little anti-seize on the screws for good measure.

I would send Q a note before all of that. They may have others with the same issue. This is good info for them to identify issues in the design possibly. If you torqued them to spec and tried to take them out and that happened it, to me, would be a warranty issue.
 
Yeah, pretty sure. Only the receiver screws were that tight, and I can confirm no loctite or anything.

The receiver holes are aluminum, as opposed to the rails which have steel inserts thus my 'seized' diagnosis. I'm probably going to mill the screw out and will likely have to helicoil the holes. If I had it to do over again, I would have definitely tossed a little anti-seize on the screws for good measure.

You probably had a galvanic reaction between the two metals or galled the threads, is there any sign of corrosion? 35 in/lbs with galled threads could do this. Also, I have had several new stainless screws strip in the head but they were usually allen bolts not torx, weird. Yeah, a little dab of something would have helped, should probably check mine now.

I would definitely talk to q about it and let them fix it.
 
Anyone had issues w/ the receiver screws holding the down the rails seizing up? Went to swap to a shorter rail and both of the receiver screws (handguard screws were fine) were super super tight. One of them completely broke and then rounded off :(

I had taken them off before to swap barrels, and torqued them back to 35 in-lbs. I think I fucked up leaving them dry.

In the deep dive videos by kitbadger nick mentions something along the lines of the tapers lock the screws into place and have to be snapped out. He even mentioned sparks coming off when removing them. I think this seems likely what the issue was. Must be a way you’re supposed to remove them?