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The Fix from Q

Stache, man ☹️☹️ Mine doesn’t either..

Mine does make the twang sound. Serious question. Have any of you stripped the bolt? When I first got the rifle, I took it all apart thanks to Kitbadger’s videos and I was just thinking... I had the bolt stripped and the locker locked out on top, and I pulled on it releasing the spring tension (accidental at the time). You guys think that would decrease the amount of bolt lift? Mine isn’t noticeable when I’m running it, ive been shooting 120 Hornady match, but to make it even smoother/get rid of the twang noise, I wonder if letting some of the tension out of the spring would do that?

I’m a pharmacist, not an engineer ??? might just do it and see what happens. You could always dial it back up... right?
Bro. We need pics of what’s happening. I’ve watched that video and I didn’t see any springs haha
 
Actually now that I’m thinking about it, Stache, maybe you could wind it up? Thus, striking the primer harder? I may be way oversimplifying your problem... but, I’m pretty sure you’re just winding this spring up when you pull the bolt back and the spring is driving the bolt into the primer once the sear is contacted... ??‍♂️??‍♂️ Again. Grain of salt. Pharmacist.

thats interesting
 
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Check the top left hand corner. Those are the six colors they offer. And I believe you can mix and match. Doesn’t have to be all one color.

As for 6.5 vs 308 I’ve sold all my 308s because 6.5 is about the same energy wise inside of 500 yards. The 143 ELDX going 2475 out of a 16 inch barrel. Put those numbers in a calculator compared to 16 inch 308. Less recoil but similar energy. And more than enough to hammer whitetails

Where did you get that velocity number for the 143 Eld X’s? Was that the factory load as well?
 
Where did you get that velocity number for the 143 Eld X’s? Was that the factory load as well?
A member here and all around good dude @jwknutson17 did some testing for science back on page 25. Here’s a screen grab. It’s a 17 inch Bartlein/Tooley barrel doing 2500+ with factory 143 hunting ammo. So I’d say my estimate of 2475 out of a 16 is pretty fair. But just today my 16.5 got up to 2570 with no pressure signs with a 147 hand load. I’d say 2500 would be doable for the 143.
 

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A member here and all around good dude @jwknutson17 did some testing for science back on page 25. Here’s a screen grab. It’s a 17 inch Bartlein/Tooley barrel doing 2500+ with factory 143 hunting ammo. So I’d say my estimate of 2475 out of a 16 is pretty fair. But just today my 16.5 got up to 2570 with no pressure signs with a 147 hand load. I’d say 2500 would be doable for the 143.

Thank you for that. Definetly getting a 16” when I go up there in March to build mine. Hopefully when my Thunder ChIcken clears NFA jail soon, It’ll help the bullet clear 2500 FPS
 
Made it out to the range today, it's so nice going on weekdays and finding an empty range. Just trying to work on my fundamentals, I'll be honest are lacking severely, and seeing how the gun reacts to different factory ammo. All I shot today was my 16" B/T barrel, hoping the new barrel wrench makes it in in the next week so I can give that a try compared to the using the one on my torque wrench.
I shot American Eagle 150gr, Hornady Superperfomance Match 178gr BTHP, Hornady Match 168gr BTHP and Hornady Black 155gr A-Max in the order listed. The image shown without the Ballistic-X overlay is my various 100yd sighters, I forgot to list which group was which, the other three are all 200yd groups. Take these groups as more of a demonstration to my ability to shoot the rifle rather than the rifles ability to shoot good groups. All groups were shot prone, which is a position I need to work on. The more I shoot my Fix, the more I love it.
One thing I did discover today, is that my scope is slightly canted to the rifle. I only noticed this after I figured out how to stiffen up my Atlas bipod to prevent me from canting the rifle:rolleyes:.
And because someone mentioned we need more pictures of the Fix itself, I've included a couple of the rifle.;)
 

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Made it out to the range today, it's so nice going on weekdays and finding an empty range. Just trying to work on my fundamentals, I'll be honest are lacking severely, and seeing how the gun reacts to different factory ammo. All I shot today was my 16" B/T barrel, hoping the new barrel wrench makes it in in the next week so I can give that a try compared to the using the one on my torque wrench.
I shot American Eagle 150gr, Hornady Superperfomance Match 178gr BTHP, Hornady Match 168gr BTHP and Hornady Black 155gr A-Max in the order listed. The image shown without the Ballistic-X overlay is my various 100yd sighters, I forgot to list which group was which, the other three are all 200yd groups. Take these groups as more of a demonstration to my ability to shoot the rifle rather than the rifles ability to shoot good groups. All groups were shot prone, which is a position I need to work on. The more I shoot my Fix, the more I love it.
One thing I did discover today, is that my scope is slightly canted to the rifle. I only noticed this after I figured out how to stiffen up my Atlas bipod to prevent me from canting the rifle:rolleyes:.
And because someone mentioned we need more pictures of the Fix itself, I've included a couple of the rifle.;)

If you naturally cant the rifle when you shoot, the scope shouldn't be level with the rifle. Hold the rifle how you would naturally and use a plumb line. Thats level.... doesn't matter how the scope looks on the rifle itself.

Its good seeing people posting pics/range reports :cool:(y).
 
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Anyone in here use quickload and want to help me out? I don’t have compatible device (windows) to get it myself and I’m trying to find an alternative. Zero pressure signs but don’t want to blow up my fix haha
 
Anyone in here use quickload and want to help me out? I don’t have compatible device (windows) to get it myself and I’m trying to find an alternative. Zero pressure signs but don’t want to blow up my fix haha
I want to get that program but my computer doesn't have a cd drive. I wish they would have it for sale on a flash drive or something.
 
If you naturally cant the rifle when you shoot, the scope shouldn't be level with the rifle. Hold the rifle how you would naturally and use a plumb line. Thats level.... doesn't matter how the scope looks on the rifle itself.

Its good seeing people posting pics/range reports :cool:(y).
I’v never heard anyone say to have a setup that is canted. I mean if it works than it works but I would rather have everything in line and plumb and use a level before the shot to make sure its dead on.
 
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I’v never heard anyone say to have a setup that is canted. I mean if it works than it works but I would rather have everything in line and plumb and use a level before the shot to make sure its dead on.

Look into it. Not wrong to just level the scope with the rifle, but I typically level the scope to my natural shooting position. It is 1: more comfortable that way and 2: more repeatable.

ETA: Saved you a little research time (2min)... I'm sure there is more out there
@Gotlag1789
uOnFarF.png
 

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If you naturally cant the rifle when you shoot, the scope shouldn't be level with the rifle. Hold the rifle how you would naturally and use a plumb line. Thats level.... doesn't matter how the scope looks on the rifle itself.

Its good seeing people posting pics/range reports :cool:(y).
I’m sure I naturally can’t the rifle, but it feels like something is off between the scope and rifle. I feel like I’m fighting between holding the rifle comfortably and looking through the scope properly while in the prone position. Shooting from the bench feels fine though. So maybe I need to readjust it to fit better in the prone. Guess I need to film myself to see what I’m doing, maybe ask around to see if I can find an experienced shooter to help me out. Thankfully I am taking a class from @Lowlight up here in Alaska in May, so hopefully he’ll get me squared away as to what I’m doing wrong. I am taking my Fix to the class, just have to decide if I’m going to run the 16” .308 B/T barrel or 24” 6.5cm Proof carbon fiber barrel.

Edit* corrected my mistake on the Proof barrel length.
 
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I’m sure I naturally can’t the rifle, but it feels like something is off between the scope and rifle. I feel like I’m fighting between holding the rifle comfortably and looking through the scope properly while in the prone position. Shooting from the bench feels fine though. So maybe I need to readjust it to fit better in the prone. Guess I need to film myself to see what I’m doing, maybe ask around to see if I can find an experienced shooter to help me out. Thankfully I am taking a class from @Lowlight up here in Alaska in May, so hopefully he’ll get me squared away as to what I’m doing wrong. I am taking my Fix to the class, just have to decide if I’m going to run the 16” .308 B/T barrel or 22” 6.5cm Proof carbon fiber barrel.

That’s going to be awesome. I’m jealous. - Run the cm! Did you mean 24”?
 
I’m sure I naturally can’t the rifle, but it feels like something is off between the scope and rifle. I feel like I’m fighting between holding the rifle comfortably and looking through the scope properly while in the prone position. Shooting from the bench feels fine though. So maybe I need to readjust it to fit better in the prone. Guess I need to film myself to see what I’m doing, maybe ask around to see if I can find an experienced shooter to help me out. Thankfully I am taking a class from @Lowlight up here in Alaska in May, so hopefully he’ll get me squared away as to what I’m doing wrong. I am taking my Fix to the class, just have to decide if I’m going to run the 16” .308 B/T barrel or 22” 6.5cm Proof carbon fiber barrel.

Yea, everything should mesh up. If it doesn't feel right, it isn't right. Just make sure you are using a plumb line and not some sort of "trick" to level your scope and always level it while holding the rifle as you would while shooting. But hey, grain of salt, pharmacist haha
 
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Haha! Any proof barrel is a gorgeous thing. Pics with it and the can are in order!
I’ll post some later this afternoon. Going to hit the range again after work and switch to the proof barrel. If I can remember I’ll try and time myself to see how long it actually takes to do a barrel swap. I’m going to do the same thing testing a couple different ammos too.
 
To me, it’s the best bolt gun trigger I’ve ever felt. But I also know triggers are subjective. Personally I prefer RRA NM 2 stage in my ARs over Giessele triggers which I tried 3 different G models and I just don’t get the hype. So triggers are a bit of a personal thing. But I love this one. 2 stage, very crisp. If you watch the Kit Badger deep dive videos (required reading and a total must for any fix owner or even prospective owner) you’ll see how they say they are all a little different but they rest each one for creep and for crispness.

Edit to add: it’s about 2lbs according to Q
 
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Did a quick search and didn’t see much...how is the trigger on the Fix? I’m used to a Geissele 2 stage on my Scar 17 and AR for comparison.

Geissele uses a heavier first stage and a lighter second stage (for example, the SSA-E has a 2.3lb first and a 1.2lb second stage). The Fix trigger is almost the inverse of this with a VERY light first and a heavier, but crisp, second stage. I don't know the exact weights for the fix but have heard that it breaks at ~2lbs to 2.5lbs, which makes sense, but that 2-2.5lbs is almost entirely in the second stage. I like heavier first with lighter second personally, but its a good trigger. You won't have any issues with it.
 
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So I timed myself to see how long it takes to do a barrel swap and it was 9.5 minutes, not including time to take pictures. The hardest part was pulling the .308 B/T barrel from the receiver. Purely timed myself out of curiosity.

Sadly I only had 3 different factory loads to shoot today out of the 24" Proof, I got the length right this time. They were American Eagle 120gr open tip match, Hornady Match 120gr ELD and Federal Gold Medal Match 140gr Sierra Matchking. I did pull a round in my grouping for the Hornady and Federal, as seen in the pictures, so those were only factored as 4 round groups. It definitely seemed to prefer the Federal GMM over the other two. I picked up some Hornady Match 140gr ELD and Hornady Superformance 129gr SST. Might be able to make it to the range again tomorrow to see.

So I realized looking through my group photos between the .308 and 6.5 barrels, it appears that even though I use the same scope with both, just re-zero at 100yds for each round, that at 200 yards I have a consistent drift to the right for every round I try. My goal on the next range trip is to try and do a tall target test to see if my scope is tracking straight, and to see how the impacts track as I adjust the scope. Any thoughts on what I should look at, please let me know. The only thing I noticed when I did the barrel swap is some rubbing where my scope rings mount to the rail.
 

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I like Kevin. Great guy but I heard the accuracy isn’t up to par. Like 1 moa. I like the concept of the rifle though
I’ll save you 55 pages of reading. The gun shoots great. It isn’t EASY to shoot tiny groups with because of its lack of weight, particularly in 308 (lighter by a lb and more recoil) but guns have been sent back to Q who shoots half MOA with them. I also noticed on a podcast KB said they shoot every gun for accuracy before it ships. They shoot 5 round 100yd groups. 6.5 is all under half MOA easy and the 308 are right about a half or they don’t ship. It’s pretty evident that this gun while capable in the hands of people used to them (Q) it exposes the lack of fundamentals in others. It isn’t an easy gun to shoot. But I love mine. A lot.
 
I like Kevin. Great guy but I heard the accuracy isn’t up to par. Like 1 moa. I like the concept of the rifle though
Other people have posted good groupings. Mine have been around .5-1moa at 100yds and 1moa at 200yds. I know I have poor fundamentals and need to work on me to tighten up the group. The rifle is a hammer, and I love it.
 
@thestacce - a light strike could be indicative of a headspace issue. This could be a problem with the bolt, the chamber, or the barrel's seating in the barrel extension. I would do more work to diagnose the problem before focusing on the bolt. Have you measured changes in headspace between un-fired and fired brass to see how much the brass expands o firing? I'm not an expert, but I would guess that seeing over .005" indicates a headspace problem.

On the brass shaving issue, if it bothers you, I would carefully break any suspect sharp corners with some 1000 grit sandpaper.

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Opened an RMA with the distributor/importer as well as on Qs end, this is the response I got from the distributor/importer. I’m sure you can imagine what my response was.
So this is on going.

Does anyone else’s bolt droop so much at the front it hits the feed ramps on the barrel extension and is pushed up into the barrel extension? Because mine sure does. I’ve forwarded all this onto the people that need to see it I just don’t understand why it is such a big deal to get me a new bolt. Clearly there’s something wrong here with the shroud to rails fit or the bolt to shroud fit and it’s drooping too much at the front and getting caught on things and running into the feed ramps.

 
@sexparty interesting name change ?

On a serious note, my bolt is the same way.... with no mag inserted. I insert the mag and it’s straight as an arrow. I don’t think what your video is highlighting is a problem in my opinion.

Regarding feeding issues, if I run my bolt fast it’s fine. It’s slow that seems to occasionally cause issues. But aren’t pretty much most bolt guns that mag feed like that?

On a side note, sounds dry to me. Lube that sucker up.
 
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I shot my Fix today and finally took some pictures of groups since I downloaded the new Ballistic-X app. I shot three groups of Federal Gold Medal one group was 168g and two were 175g. Then I shot two more groups of a 155g load I’ve been working up for the rifle just trying to finish up seating depth.
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My buddy who started his own machine shop about a year ago made me an early birthday present. An Arca rail for the Q! It's 6" long, has holes for stop screws front and rear, attaches with 3 screws which are the same dimensions as the standard Q screws, made out of T6061 aluminum and it has NO sharp edges or machine cuts in the bottom which makes it feel nice in the hand.

I'm going to organize a group buy for a batch of them that I hope to have finalized soon. The final product will be tumbled and hard coat anodized for a clean strong finish.

What do you guys think?




@redneckbmxer24
That is exactly what I have been looking for to make the Q fit how I hunt up here in MD(off of an RRS).
Please keep me updated on when these are available!
 
Nice! Tell us about your butt pad mod. Also what can is that? Looks like maybe a surefire?
Yeah the suppressor is a Surefire 7.62 mini. And the butt pad is just the one off of my KRG Whiskey 3 chassis. I was just looking at it hanging on the wall one day and it looked like it would just bolt right on. And it did, just unscrew the two torx screws under the Fix butt pad and this one screws right on. I don’t know if you can buy just the butt pad or anything from KRG. I just put this one on whenever I put several rounds through my Fix and then swap it back for hunting and stuff. I’ll take pictures of it and post them next time I get a chance
 
@kpaschall2002 Did you put your muzzle device on without using a taper adapter or an I seeing that wrong? If so, I assume everything is working fine?
Yeah I didn’t use the adapter. It’s a surefire muzzle break and it’s not timed right to use as a muzzle break but I’m just using it as a suppressor mount so I don’t care. Everything has stayed tight and no misalignment. My opinion was if the taper is good and it’s centered to align their stuff it would align everything else too, haha