The "New" Barrett MRAD Thread!!!!!!

Curious if any of you are running the MK22 suppressor?

I'm finding essentially zero info about it online.... curious how it mounts vs how the normal AM338 mounts? Looks like they both use the same threaded muzzle brake however the MK22 suppressor uses a latch of some sort.
 
Has anyone ever pull a mag apart? I was wanting to take mine deer hunting this year but my state has a 6-round limit. So was thinking of 3D printing a limiter but can't seem to get the mag apart.
 
Has anyone ever pull a mag apart? I was wanting to take mine deer hunting this year but my state has a 6-round limit. So was thinking of 3D printing a limiter but can't seem to get the mag apart.
Yes. Its crazy difficult. I love how the manual says to pinch a spot on the side and slide the plate out after depressing the little button. Honestly i had to use a C clamp to pinch enough to get the damn thing to release.
 
Yes. Its crazy difficult. I love how the manual says to pinch a spot on the side and slide the plate out after depressing the little button. Honestly i had to use a C clamp to pinch enough to get the damn thing to release.
Thanks for the suggestion I've got a couple of clamps and give that a try. Did you limit your or pull it apart for another reason? Just wondering how you did limit it if you did.
 
Spent a hour and half at the range last weekend and couldn't figure out why I was getting 3 MOA groups until I was leaving. Turns out my scope mount was never tightened up and it was getting loose the entire time...
 
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That shit is the worst. Had that happen in a match before.
I know. I thought I got a lemon cause it was my first trip with the rifle and I was all excited. After the first 3 shots I was questioning my self and after about 10 rounds, I started questioning the gun...
At least now I know I didn't suck that much nor did the gun.
 
One word.... Spuhr. You bought an expensive rifle and scope... you need a quality scope mount. Nightforce's rings aren't bad either.
I ended up buying badger ordnance rings for my nightforce. I dialed the gun in from 3ft down and left at 25yds. Went to shoot it at 100 and it was shooting low and left again. Went back to 25yds to find it some how went back to the original place. Also the suppressor was a smidge loose than hand tight. I’ve had several people tell me it will cause that big of an issue. The suppressor is a CGS Hekate DT.

Nightforce says the scope was good. So my next step is to rethread the barrel and take out the thread adapter. My goal is to alleviate any possible problems with concentricity. Hopefully this solves it finally.

Any more suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
 
I ended up buying badger ordnance rings for my nightforce. I dialed the gun in from 3ft down and left at 25yds. Went to shoot it at 100 and it was shooting low and left again. Went back to 25yds to find it some how went back to the original place. Also the suppressor was a smidge loose than hand tight. I’ve had several people tell me it will cause that big of an issue. The suppressor is a CGS Hekate DT.

Nightforce says the scope was good. So my next step is to rethread the barrel and take out the thread adapter. My goal is to alleviate any possible problems with concentricity. Hopefully this solves it finally.

Any more suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
Insert barrel, close bolt. Tighten the two screws. I saw a youtube were the guy put in the barrel and just tightened the two screws then closed the bolt. Make sure you torque to spec.
 
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I know. I thought I got a lemon cause it was my first trip with the rifle and I was all excited. After the first 3 shots I was questioning my self and after about 10 rounds, I started questioning the gun...
At least now I know I didn't suck that much nor did the gun.
Glad to know I don’t suck. Lake City 762 loose bulk ammo 100 yards indoor 5 shots
84C5B271-4FDE-4E87-8930-10ED5B8CDCF4.jpeg
 
But I did have 3 FTF. Pushed the bolt close but could not lock the bolt. Pulled the bolt back and noticed the marks on the bullet. Do any of you have really tight bolts that takes some extra force to lock down?
 
Any leads on barrels for sale? I’ve scoured the web with no luck. Looking for 6.5cm or 300norma mag.
Barrett has builder kits on their site every now and then. Happened to check last Friday and the 338/300 NM kit was in stock. Got a shipping notification on Tuesday. Should be here next week. Now I just need the 308 kit to show up on their website...
 
Yeah sadly I'm in the same boat, I only have a max of 500yd range around me. There is one just south of me in NE that has a 1776yd range but it's private and runs almost 200 a day for access.
WOW $200 a day is hefty… The 850 range near me offers membership for $450 a year which I a pretty good price for training and plinking in general. Non member is $80 a day or $10 per hour.
 
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Hey all, new to the forum. I've got a line on an MRAD for a decent price (not the SMR), and I must admit, I'm somewhat surprised at the twist rates for some of the calibers. The published twist for .308 Win is 1:8??? From every calculation I've looked at, that's overstabilization even for the longest, heaviest bullets in .308 Win. I'm sure this has been discussed somewhere, but has anyone experience excessive yaw or spin drift with this twist? The published reviews are all glowing, but I take the paid shills with a grain of salt. I'm seriously interested in this rifle, but the M24 was 1:11.25 and the M40 was 1:12, with most others using 1:10...

Thanks.
 
Hey all, new to the forum. I've got a line on an MRAD for a decent price (not the SMR), and I must admit, I'm somewhat surprised at the twist rates for some of the calibers. The published twist for .308 Win is 1:8??? From every calculation I've looked at, that's overstabilization even for the longest, heaviest bullets in .308 Win. I'm sure this has been discussed somewhere, but has anyone experience excessive yaw or spin drift with this twist? The published reviews are all glowing, but I take the paid shills with a grain of salt. I'm seriously interested in this rifle, but the M24 was 1:11.25 and the M40 was 1:12, with most others using 1:10...

Thanks.
I don’t know, a 200-220gr @ 2400fps (in a 17” barrel that’s pretty hot) works out to be well within stabilization range..

(2400fps x 12” x 60 sec)/ 8 = 216K RPM

Or even a 175gr SMK going 2700fps in a 24” barrel would still be 243K RPM in a 1:8 twist

Not sure if it’s absolutely optimal, but it’s a ridiculously accurate rifle, and you won’t be anywhere near spinning bullets apart.
 
I don’t know, a 200-220gr @ 2400fps (in a 17” barrel that’s pretty hot) works out to be well within stabilization range..

(2400fps x 12” x 60 sec)/ 8 = 216K RPM

Or even a 175gr SMK going 2700fps in a 24” barrel would still be 243K RPM in a 1:8 twist

Not sure if it’s absolutely optimal, but it’s a ridiculously accurate rifle, and you won’t be anywhere near spinning bullets apart.
Good to know. Was hoping 175 gr match will do the trick, and also might try out some M118LR in it once I'm set. The barrel would be 24".
 
Hey all, new to the forum. I've got a line on an MRAD for a decent price (not the SMR), and I must admit, I'm somewhat surprised at the twist rates for some of the calibers. The published twist for .308 Win is 1:8??? From every calculation I've looked at, that's overstabilization even for the longest, heaviest bullets in .308 Win. I'm sure this has been discussed somewhere, but has anyone experience excessive yaw or spin drift with this twist? The published reviews are all glowing, but I take the paid shills with a grain of salt. I'm seriously interested in this rifle, but the M24 was 1:11.25 and the M40 was 1:12, with most others using 1:10...

Thanks.
I wonder if they use the same blanks for the 308, 300 prc and 300 Norma (1:8 twist). Though the 300 win mag is offered in a 1:10. So not sure about that.

Or maybe it’s just to ensure stabilization of the heavy rounds in the short barrel since the 22in 308 is offered in 1:10?


At any rate, every barrel I have shoots lights out so I’d trust the system and stick to heavy bullets.
 
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But I did have 3 FTF. Pushed the bolt close but could not lock the bolt. Pulled the bolt back and noticed the marks on the bullet. Do any of you have really tight bolts that takes some extra force to lock down?
I saw no one replied to your comment. If you could not closethe bolt and you're seeing rifling marks on the bullet, you like have bullets seated too far forward and are jamming it into the lands. The bolt should close easily on proper ammo.
 
Hey all, new to the forum. I've got a line on an MRAD for a decent price (not the SMR), and I must admit, I'm somewhat surprised at the twist rates for some of the calibers. The published twist for .308 Win is 1:8??? From every calculation I've looked at, that's overstabilization even for the longest, heaviest bullets in .308 Win. I'm sure this has been discussed somewhere, but has anyone experience excessive yaw or spin drift with this twist? The published reviews are all glowing, but I take the paid shills with a grain of salt. I'm seriously interested in this rifle, but the M24 was 1:11.25 and the M40 was 1:12, with most others using 1:10...

Thanks.
They use several different manufactures for blanks, then cutting, heat treating, etc is done in house.
The 1:8 will stabilize your subsonic .308 and will be fine for everything supersonic. Especially in the 17inch barrel. I have not had any issue with any of the factory Barrett barrels I have owned.
 
I saw no one replied to your comment. If you could not closethe bolt and you're seeing rifling marks on the bullet, you like have bullets seated too far forward and are jamming it into the lands. The bolt should close easily on proper ammo.
Yeah I think you are right. Only having issues with Lake City 762. Different lines of Hornady, Norma all worked fine.
 
Im actually not selling a barrel because I dont know how to follow the rules and pay for supporter status and thought I was so slick to sell outside the PX. But Im on vacation now to think about my stupid decisions.
There is one thing I learned as a police officer... you always want to give people choices. Locking people out with no way to contact anyone is a shit move. There are better ways to address violations than leaving one with zero options. Secondly, I've been a supporter in the past but decided $20 per month was not worth visiting the MRAD thread occasionally. I think a lot more people would be supporters if the subscription rate was more reasonable. Most people can stomach $5 or $10 a month but $20 is pretty steep. Finally, if the administrators had any business sense, they would give folks the option to buy their way out of jail, by like posting up 2 months of supporter fees rather than a full lockout sentence.

Luckily, I haven't missed anything on here by simply using my computer at work to sign up with a gmail account. You could have made money with a get out of jail fee. Instead, I've still been engaging on here with no consequences.
 
There is one thing I learned as a police officer... you always want to give people choices. Locking people out with no way to contact anyone is a shit move. There are better ways to address violations than leaving one with zero options. Secondly, I've been a supporter in the past but decided $20 per month was not worth visiting the MRAD thread occasionally. I think a lot more people would be supporters if the subscription rate was more reasonable. Most people can stomach $5 or $10 a month but $20 is pretty steep. Finally, if the administrators had any business sense, they would give folks the option to buy their way out of jail, by like posting up 2 months of supporter fees rather than a full lockout sentence.

Luckily, I haven't missed anything on here by simply using my computer at work to sign up with a gmail account. You could have made money with a get out of jail fee. Instead, I've still been engaging on here with no consequences.
You don't have to pay to engage on the forums here. Only if you're trying to sell something. You also could have clicked the link at the bottom of the screen that says contact us to get ahold of one of the mods.
 
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Hey all, new to the forum. I've got a line on an MRAD for a decent price (not the SMR), and I must admit, I'm somewhat surprised at the twist rates for some of the calibers. The published twist for .308 Win is 1:8??? From every calculation I've looked at, that's overstabilization even for the longest, heaviest bullets in .308 Win. I'm sure this has been discussed somewhere, but has anyone experience excessive yaw or spin drift with this twist? The published reviews are all glowing, but I take the paid shills with a grain of salt. I'm seriously interested in this rifle, but the M24 was 1:11.25 and the M40 was 1:12, with most others using 1:10...

Thanks.
1/8 is great, you will see significant gains at distance (drop and wind) and be surprised at what you can get away with 168's
 
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You don't have to pay to engage on the forums here. Only if you're trying to sell something. You also could have clicked the link at the bottom of the screen that says contact us to get ahold of one of the mods.
Everything I clicked gave me the same message... banned to Sept. 29th. And really if the banning moderator had read my post and the ones form others before it, I was only debating selling it. If you'd checked my account, you'd see I have been a supporter and have sold an item on Sniper's Hide so I wasn't trying to pull a fast one or violate the rules. I'll be much more careful never to even mention anything about selling moving forward.
 
Everything I clicked gave me the same message... banned to Sept. 29th. And really if the banning moderator had read my post and the ones form others before it, I was only debating selling it. If you'd checked my account, you'd see I have been a supporter and have sold an item on Sniper's Hide so I wasn't trying to pull a fast one or violate the rules. I'll be much more careful never to even mention anything about selling moving forward.
Not to be rude, but nobody really cares. Can we get back to MRAD related topics?

Take the complaining up with Mods via PM.
 
So I took my mrad out tonight for the first time with a new 37xc 32in barrel. Brand new brass, using a federal magnum primer, 390grn A-Tip. I started like the tubb white paper suggested at 116grains of H50bmg.

Here are my results, how high can I go? Velocity seemed low.
At each charge weight I had three rounds using my 120fx-I scale.

116- 2602, 2575, 2590
118- 2636, 2650, 2648
120- 2678, 2681, 2673
122- 2727, 2726, 2724
124- 2752, 2777, 2761
125- 2787, 2782, 2785
I had zero signs of pressure and last group looked like this.
E5FB230F-A8CE-4F9C-902D-523F7163516B.jpeg
 
So I took my mrad out tonight for the first time with a new 37xc 32in barrel. Brand new brass, using a federal magnum primer, 390grn A-Tip. I started like the tubb white paper suggested at 116grains of H50bmg.

Here are my results, how high can I go? Velocity seemed low.
At each charge weight I had three rounds using my 120fx-I scale.

116- 2602, 2575, 2590
118- 2636, 2650, 2648
120- 2678, 2681, 2673
122- 2727, 2726, 2724
124- 2752, 2777, 2761
125- 2787, 2782, 2785
I had zero signs of pressure and last group looked like this.View attachment 7970344
I'd check the 33XC thread for the velocity and reloading info.. looks promising
 
Hello All, it has been only a little over a year since I got into ELR and started putting a significant number of rounds through my MRAD. Previous to that I was an AR shooter and just did what I'd call standard cleaning on those rifles. I was never too worried about copper. Can anyone please weigh in what you think are your most effective products for cleaning the bore and removing copper? The MRAD muzzle brake is really gummed up from the suppressor and has the nice green hue of the Statue of Liberty. Also any special techniques you've developed over the years to speed the process? Thanks.
 
Hello All, it has been only a little over a year since I got into ELR and started putting a significant number of rounds through my MRAD. Previous to that I was an AR shooter and just did what I'd call standard cleaning on those rifles. I was never too worried about copper. Can anyone please weigh in what you think are your most effective products for cleaning the bore and removing copper? The MRAD muzzle brake is really gummed up from the suppressor and has the nice green hue of the Statue of Liberty. Also any special techniques you've developed over the years to speed the process? Thanks.
Lots of ways. Get good copper cleaner and go to town. I use several different copper cleaners and for crazy stuff CLR, but that will ruin finishes. Soak the muzzle device or use a sonic cleaner . I use AMS oil products because I get them wholesale
 
Hello All, it has been only a little over a year since I got into ELR and started putting a significant number of rounds through my MRAD. Previous to that I was an AR shooter and just did what I'd call standard cleaning on those rifles. I was never too worried about copper. Can anyone please weigh in what you think are your most effective products for cleaning the bore and removing copper? The MRAD muzzle brake is really gummed up from the suppressor and has the nice green hue of the Statue of Liberty. Also any special techniques you've developed over the years to speed the process? Thanks.
If has to be done quick a mild abrasive like J-B bore compound (the brown, not red) used properly. If can take the time to let them sit the Sharp Shoot R Patch-Out and Accelerator products seem to do well if left to sit over night. If it was abused and not cleaned for a long period, you'll need the J-B regardless IMO.

The Bore Tech products seem to work well (and safely) for regular cleaning intervals, but for something that was abused it's going to be the ones above.

ETA:
A bore scope is needed or are just guessing as to what is working or not. The Teslong offerings are affordable and work well.
 
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