I replaced the second stage spring with a lighter spring. You need to drive out a roll pin to do it. Leave the first stage spring alone. I measured the diameter and length of the spring as well as wire diameter and ordered one from Lee Spring online. I can't remember the size off hand but ordered several and stuck with the stiffest of them. You need to make sure the tension is set strong enough that the first stage doesn't overpower the second stage. Still, I have it at well under a pound on the second stage. I also filed out the creep at the sear a bit and now it is easily one of the best triggers I have. Super easy to work on.
The "New" Barrett MRAD Thread!!!!!!
- Thread starter IanHusaberg
- Start date
I figured it would resort to something like this. I tried my best to not mess w it internally and the best was a 3lb pull weight, not even close to where i want it. I thank you for you info, I am going to look into it further and learn the internals of the trigger and get it to where i want. I imagine you had to swap the springs out a couple of times before you got it down to where you wanted correct? My 1st stage seems to be more than 1lb to start w, I'm going to double check that and make sure the 2nd pull wt is > the 1st.
With regards to the creep, was that fixed due to the spring swap or did you have to tinker w it somemore?
super helpful man, thank you. Damian
Just leave the first stage springs alone. Study the trigger and you'll find it rather simple. Be careful if you file out the sear engagement as you don't want an unsafe trigger. I tried about 5 springs as I had no idea which I needed but ended up with the stiffest i ordered and cranked the set screw a bit to make sure it was stiff enough not to be overpowered by the first stage pull. Use a micrometer to measure the current spring dimensions and see if you can find a few at the higher end of the scale. Lee Spring charges ridiculous shipping so you don't want to screw it up. Maybe I can find my invoice order and I can let you know what size I ordered. It's been a year and a half or so.
I looked up my old invoice. Lee Spring part #LC 016A 02 S316. Don't go lighter than this size. You'll still have to crank the set screw as you still need some tension. It made my mrad trigger fantastic.
@scarlettRedd - Thank you for taking the time to do all of this. I really appreciate it. With your help i have some direction to go in other than spending the $400 for the new trigger route. I prefer to keep my original and learn to work with my rifle. I am ordering the necessary items to get a good foundation to work on this trigger. I have already looked at the Lee Springs website and will call them during this week to ask about those springs. I'll share more as I progress through this route.
Damian
I have that on mine - I assume we all might. Seems to be that the tolerances there were either done that way on purpose for adverse conditions or that is just not as perfectly crafted as we might expect. But now that you pointed it out, I will always see it / hear it
As soon as I find some ammo, I will just shoot it without ear protection and never have to worry about it again. Minus the new ringing that now replaces it.
I might email the person at Barrett that has been more than patient with my questions for the last 3 years and see what they might say about it.
I might email the person at Barrett that has been more than patient with my questions for the last 3 years and see what they might say about it.
Sorry bout that
Well I have questions - Like whos facebook? And are these failures or did not meet QA?
No idea... it was posted on a larger group. It is weird since it is relatively a very new system.
That is interesting and makes me wonder how one would know this that owns one now and if it only effected MK22 versions.
Looks like they made it out of the factory. Its intersting think about the inspection process in the field(?). Eg, if there were some gross failures (cracks?) and then they x-rayed a bunch of them or something (?). or if there was a geometry problem that showed up, where something basically wasn't straight.
Thanks Scarlett
Hey ScarlettRed - I started playing with my trigger assembly and learned the internal components. eventhough it's easy, this will be my first trigger spring change and I want to make sure I'm messing with the right parts. The blue circle has the 1st stage trigger and the red the 2nd stage correct? I measured out my 1st stage trigger pull and it's ~ 1 lb to 1.25 lb trigger pull. The total pull was 3 lbs so I presume the 2nd stage was ~1.75-2 lbs. This was tested several times with everything in place.
The product number you gave, what was that for exactly? I figure that if I want to get my overall trig pull wt down to 1.25-1.5 i have to lighten the 1st stage to 1 lb so I have a second wall correct? Which variation of springs did you buy and play with?
Really appreciate your help with this.
Attachments
Tactical toothbrush, tactical toothpaste, and tactical floss? Shit I think I stole all that from the last hotel I was at
Any idea where to get what looks like a ratchet type wrench? What is the Larue wrench for? I have the Barrett fixit sticks kit.
https://www.larue.com/products/larue-lt002-b-3-8-replacement-wrench/ not sure why you would need this with the fix it sticks.
it was only a batch of mil contract mk22. Its not all of them.
it’s to adjust the bipod larue lever
Can someone explain the different generation/versions? I’m looking at getting one with the CJ prefix.
G1 - Large breech. AJ (000000-001200)
G2.0 - Small breech. AJ (001200+)
G2.1 - MLOK receiver. CJ
G3 - Captive bolt pin. EJ (MRAD), USA (Mk22)
Nobody knows what you are talking about. Can you can be more specific as to your concern?
Just want to make sure that I can get one of the barrel conversion kits and use it with the CJ designated prefix rifles and not have any problems.
And want to make sure that I am not missing out on any updated changes that may be beneficial by getting an older version.
And want to make sure that I am not missing out on any updated changes that may be beneficial by getting an older version.
Not being rude at all, but go back to page 46 and read the entire discussion about MRAD generational differences and which barrels are compatible with which prefixes.
Okay managed to read through those posts. I think I have it worked out.
But wasn't sure about this: moving on - the newer G3 barrels - will they be backwards compatible with the prior G2?
But wasn't sure about this: moving on - the newer G3 barrels - will they be backwards compatible with the prior G2?
Here is what Barrett told me as I was totally confused from the info on the site: (mainly because I was thinking I could walk away with a deal)
The discounted barrels that you see on the webstore, are old stock part numbers that went with the older model MRAD rifles. In order for these barrels to be compatible in current MRAD rifles, they require the use of the large to small breech conversion kit. We are working on updating the description as there has been a good deal of confusion on when the breech conversion kit is necessary/applicable.
This answered my question and I just went with the latest models
The discounted barrels that you see on the webstore, are old stock part numbers that went with the older model MRAD rifles. In order for these barrels to be compatible in current MRAD rifles, they require the use of the large to small breech conversion kit. We are working on updating the description as there has been a good deal of confusion on when the breech conversion kit is necessary/applicable.
This answered my question and I just went with the latest models
Based on the design characteristics, the new barrels will be quasi compatible with the older small breech MRADs:
- Barrel will be 100% compatible with no modification
- Bolt head comes with the barrel, so no problems there
- You will need a new bolt with a captured bolt pin to run new barrels in your older MRAD.
thank you! I don’t see a bolt specifically for sale anywhere online and their customer service hasn’t been very responsive. Can I scavenge parts from the large to small breech conversion?
I picked up a Proof Carbon caliber conversion in 300prc for my MRAD. Is anyone else shooting this? How is it shooting?
I have a 300NM MRAD on the way, thanks to a hide member. Simple question that I think I know the answer to but want to confirm: the only OEM option to replace a shot-out barrel is to order the barrel conversion kit. Is that correct, or will Barrett support a barrel-only swap some other way so you don't have to also buy a new bolt and mag? Again, my understanding is you have to buy the kit or go aftermarket.
Dare I ask what that cost you in comparison to the ones from Barrett? Also I assume it is designed to work with existing bolt head that you already had?
I wanted to weigh in on the MRAD barrels my MRAD is CJ0019XX. Best I can tell and have been able to verify with my own extensions and one from a friend of mine. Barrett has four different barrel extensions. The original extension from the large bolt designed MRAD (friends gun .585 bolt) up until the MK22 era are all the same. You can use any bolt on any extension. I have been able to take a bolt from the AJ series .585 bolt face and put a .540 or .470 bolt in the same extension. The three pictured extensions will take all three bolt sizes. The left bolt is 308 (.470) and the right bolt is 300 WM (.540). Note that these bolts do not have acut out at the back for the cam pin retention mechanism. My rifle is a 300 PRC and you can rebarrel the rifle just like any other but will be limited what barrel blank because you have to have a long tenon section for the extension.
As mentioned above the other three extensions are different. They are made to ONLY take the same size bolt it was shipped with. You can not put a .470 bolt in a .540 or .585 extension. You can take a .470 and use it in another .470 extension. I think Barrett did this to make the gun GI proof. Notice these bolts are the same and can be used in either extension. My 300 PRC bolt (not shown) also has the cut out at the rear of the bolt and will not fit into these extensions nor my original 300 WM extension (non cut out bolt) nor any other size extension.
Keep in mind I am not addressing differences in headspace from one bolt to another within the same bolt face size from extension to extension. Headspace needs to be set for the bolt you are using with the extension being used.
Hopefully my explanation makes sense.
Keep in mind I am not addressing differences in headspace from one bolt to another within the same bolt face size from extension to extension. Headspace needs to be set for the bolt you are using with the extension being used.
Hopefully my explanation makes sense.
@TheChris
Quoting myself from post #1875 in this thread:
The barrel extensions(barrel makers kit from Barrett come with a bolt head, the parts for the bolt head and instructions/diagram of how it’s all supposed to go together. You can do pretty much any barrel profile you want but you need at a Minimum a 1.25 inch diameter shank for at least 5 inches. Back in late 2020 I ordered some modified palma contours from bartlein; Light palma 6.5saum, medium palma 300norma and 338 lapua and a heavy palma for 37xc.
The only bartlein contour that meets the 5inch shank requirement without a special order is the #9 heavy varmint.
New: you can re-use the barrel extension from a shot out barrel if you have a competent smith.
So far smiths that have done the barrel makers kit and spun up custom barrels: GAP, LRI, Spartan Precision, Bugholes, PVA.
Quoting myself from post #1875 in this thread:
The barrel extensions(barrel makers kit from Barrett come with a bolt head, the parts for the bolt head and instructions/diagram of how it’s all supposed to go together. You can do pretty much any barrel profile you want but you need at a Minimum a 1.25 inch diameter shank for at least 5 inches. Back in late 2020 I ordered some modified palma contours from bartlein; Light palma 6.5saum, medium palma 300norma and 338 lapua and a heavy palma for 37xc.
The only bartlein contour that meets the 5inch shank requirement without a special order is the #9 heavy varmint.
New: you can re-use the barrel extension from a shot out barrel if you have a competent smith.
So far smiths that have done the barrel makers kit and spun up custom barrels: GAP, LRI, Spartan Precision, Bugholes, PVA.
I’ve got a 300PRC barrel on mine. Is shooting decent with the factory hornady ammo. I am about to start load dev, I have 5 boxes of the Berger 230s and 8 of the 245s. Might get a 300NM barrel for it and am thinking of keeping the 245s for that barrel.
Sorry I missed your post. Been rather busy. Give me a bit and I'll see if I can give you more info. I only got springs for the second stage. I read somewhere that there could be some function issues if you lightened up the first stage too much. The reason I had a variation of springs was that it was an experiment so I bought a few. The first 4 were way too light. I lucked out on the last spring as it worked. Lee spring jacks you bad on shipping so I'd order the one I suggested or stiffer. I'll see if I can get you more info soon
Bad Day
I guess my Mk22 MRAD is toast.... I just discovered a significant crack in the receiver while cleaning my gun room. Last time I shot the rifle the accuracy dropped off significantly at the end of the day. I thought it was me and went home. I hope Barrett will take car of me??
I guess my Mk22 MRAD is toast.... I just discovered a significant crack in the receiver while cleaning my gun room. Last time I shot the rifle the accuracy dropped off significantly at the end of the day. I thought it was me and went home. I hope Barrett will take car of me??Attachments
Yup call customer serviceBad Day
Sorry to hear your rifle is down with this issue. Please post up what the explanation / root cause is determined to be. Good luck.Bad Day
I wonder if that's the issue we saw on the last page manifesting in the upper? Looks like quite stress riser with the way those two surfaces come together where the upper is used to clamp the barrel. I wonder if we'll see those blended soon.
Bad Day
I wonder if this is the issue that was posted up above. Metallurgical issues on issued MK22's
Similar threads
