-
Having trouble using the site?
Contact support
The "New" Barrett MRAD Thread!!!!!!
- Thread starter IanHusaberg
- Start date
I did hear there was someone who you could send your used barrel to with barrel shroud and they can spin you up a new one, with mods? I don't know who that is but, it might be in this thread. I think if you burn a barrel out you don't have enough conversion kits!???......
You should probably paint that fence too while we're at it
I'm not a super hero on here as some may or may not have asserted here. I'm not an actor. Just a bad influence on you all!! I'm a painter by trade and you should tear down that fence, not paint it, it's gone!!!
haven't seen anything official but a have seen a couple references that perhaps SAC could since they do the same for DTA - http://shortactioncustoms.com/
Well to be perfectly honest the fence in question does not belong to me as it is a rent house. With that being said I could give a shit what the fence looks like because I am in the middle of moving into my newly purchased house that has a brand new fence!!
In short I would agree the fence should be trashed . . . If I cared hahahaha
On another note I believe it is Short Action Customs on the west coast that has said they can spin a replacement barrel if you provide the original for measurements.
Thats funny! The guy has a brand new MRAD, soon topped with new glass, here comes The German pissing on the fence. Suppose the guy is checking out his new glass by looking at his new fence...... All I can say is wear your Ghilly and hope he does not see you.
I needed that laugh, thanks. Sierra 338 might not like it so much! New gun, new house, NICE!!!! congrats.
Haha pee on my fence? well alrighty. . . I needed a good chuckle
Thanks guys. My rings will be here tomorrow! Then it's time for some real MRAD porn (in between moving shit)
Thanks guys. My rings will be here tomorrow! Then it's time for some real MRAD porn (in between moving shit)
I'm curious. I'm trying to load data into my Applied Ballistics App, but it wants to know the height of the center of the scope from the center of the bore. I can figure the height of the rail to the center of the scope, but do we have a figure of the center of the bore to the top of the rail?
I love the Tungsten Barret, though. If they would have had it when I bought my MRB I wouuld have bought that instead.
I love the Tungsten Barret, though. If they would have had it when I bought my MRB I wouuld have bought that instead.
One of the original 8XX serial numbers. 338, 24" fluted barrel and large breach. I have a complete small breach 308 bolt and 22" barrel. I've had it for about 4 years and it's my favorite gun.
Nightforce NXS 8-32 Mil/Mil in an ADM base.
Nightforce NXS 8-32 Mil/Mil in an ADM base.
I chased that detail for a while, then an old timer told me just use a tape measure to measure from the optical center of the scope to the center of the bore/bolt. On my MRAD it is 2-7/8 or 2.875.
Just for shits and giggles add/subtract an eighth of an inch--put the different numbers into your software--look at the difference out to the renge you shoot and you will probably conclude that the "ole timer" was right that a tape measure and mark one eyeball is good enough.
Thanks for the suggestion! I read the same thing on Barrett Forums, but wanted to know if anyone had access to the actual number from Barrett.
I have a micrometer, so I should be able to get a pretty accurate reading.
I have a micrometer, so I should be able to get a pretty accurate reading.
I think that's around the number that I've come up with and I was a little shocked as well. It was a little bit of a guessing game with the barrel slightly offset in the chasis.
I watched another video of a quick change barrel system. It was the Remmington PSR. Once again the MRAD is way quicker to change, but it did share some similarities with the bolt head swap. At this point I think the Desert tech and the MRAD are neck and neck with the caliber swap? Thoughts? Anyone out there switch from a DT to an MRAD or the other way around?
I wonder if the height above bore doesn't make more difference in close shots than it does in long range shots. Many years ago I was walking around the farm looking for wood chucks and somehow I walked right up to on in the grass about eight yards away. I missed him when the bullet went under his head, later I realized that to make an eight yard shot I would have to aim about two inches high because the optical centerline was about two inches above the bore. Off course it's no great drama to miss a woodchuck, but if you think about a LE Sniper in a hostage situation, you can see how he might need to know where his bullet is in relation to his crosshairs even at short ranges.
I'm also fairly certain the morons at Remington think that PSR is worth like $15-$20k or some shit too.
Between their overpriced crap, RACS system that is 5x the cost of everything else with next to no advantages, their Jennings level of pistols and death spiraling rifle/action quality, all I can say is LOL Remington.
It's seen immediately at closer distances (called mechanical offset), then tapers off a bit as your bore axis and scope axis slowly converge and then becomes a bigger factor the further from that point you shoot. Overall a .25" wouldn't be the end of the world, but when shooting 1500 yards, every bit counts.
Thank god that Barrett didn't win the PSR contract or it would be that much for an MRAD. MRAD deployment kit is $18k on EuroOptic. When your overcharging the government, you really have to stick it to them like Remingtion. I'm proud to say I never bought one of their rifles. Their PSR looks like lipstick on a pig to me!!
2.731" is what I came up withe when I used Bryan Litz equation with a gen 2 razor 4.5-27x56+Spuhr QD 1.5". Scope(Objective(Bell))+Barrel(Chasis)/2+space inbetween= Bore over scope height.
Last edited:
Make sure to have Charlie check with you next time he orders rings
By the way, those worried about the mechanical offset need to probably look towards 'calibrating' the tracking on your optic more than anything at that point. The offset does matter, but having an optic that has .1MIL clicks that are actually .0897MIL per click will add up on you quickly. That's why people who shoot at 1k+ (or any distance really) that took all of their known load data, atmosphere data and plug it into a ballistics computer, shoot, and then bitch that the calculator is off by .7 MILS at 1100 yards didn't understand ahead of time. Assuming you put enough correct data in, the computer is 99% right; but the differential in your turrets added up to a .7MIL error at that distance.
Make sure to have Charlie check with you next time he orders rings
By the way, those worried about the mechanical offset need to probably look towards 'calibrating' the tracking on your optic more than anything at that point. The offset does matter, but having an optic that has .1MIL clicks that are actually .0897MIL per click will add up on you quickly. That's why people who shoot at 1k+ (or any distance really) that took all of their known load data, atmosphere data and plug it into a ballistics computer, shoot, and then bitch that the calculator is off by .7 MILS at 1100 yards didn't understand ahead of time. Assuming you put enough correct data in, the computer is 99% right; but the differential in your turrets added up to a .7MIL error at that distance.
Thats funny you should mention that. I have done tall target tests before but just today I built a nine foot tall target exactly 100 yards from my deer stand. That should give me the ability to do a tall target test up to 29 mils. That should provide all the data I need about how well my scopes are calabrated. When actually shooting the tall target I plan to hang two plump lines about five inchs apart with the tall target between them this should aid in making it easy to insure that the vertical crosshair stays vertical.
Make sure to have Charlie check with you next time he orders rings
I'm just lazy I suppose but now I have a spare set of rings.
Just picked up an MRAD and was wondering what you guys were using for your torque wrench. Don't feel like dropping another 250 on a pre set wrench(have 3 already). Anything else out there?
I use the Snap On/CDI https://www.amazon.com/Industrial-CD...h+pound+tourqe it is only $120
It sucks because the numbers are a little hard to read, but I marked the 140 inlb with a sharpie and now it is all good. Rember if you want it to work properly you must "unload it" and only set a torque when not in use. Each turn of the handle adda 10 inlbs so I go back and forth between the screws each 10 inlbs until I reach 140 inlbs.
It sucks because the numbers are a little hard to read, but I marked the 140 inlb with a sharpie and now it is all good. Rember if you want it to work properly you must "unload it" and only set a torque when not in use. Each turn of the handle adda 10 inlbs so I go back and forth between the screws each 10 inlbs until I reach 140 inlbs.
Attachments
Go to sears.com and get the craftsman torque wrench for 30 bucks or so. works great and is easy to keep in the truck or where every handy if you need to change barrels out quickly. it super easy to use and has the clicks system so you can use it for scope rings and barrel
If you want a quality versatile torque wrench that you can use for your MRAD and lots more, I recommend the CDI Torque 1501MRPH - it's a 1/4-Inch Drive Adjustable Micrometer Torque Wrench, Torque Range 20 to 150-Inch. this is the high quality and highly regarded Snap On brand, just under the original manufacturer's name.
Amazon.com: CDI Torque 1501MRPH 1/4-Inch Drive Adjustable Micrometer Torque Wrench, Torque Range 20 to 150-Inch: Home Improvement
From time to time you can find it under $100 from Amazon. Free shipping if you're Prime. Right now it's still reasonable at about $125. UPC is 662459261977 - punch that into Google and you may be able to find it cheaper.
A Torque Wrench is not something you want to skimp on. If it is important enough that it needs to be torqued to an accurate measurement, you need a tool that will (1) give you an accurate measurement so you're not over/under torquing due to calibration or quality (2) work properly every time so that you don't over-torque (needs a clean, easy to use break).
Buy it quality, buy it once...
Amazon.com: CDI Torque 1501MRPH 1/4-Inch Drive Adjustable Micrometer Torque Wrench, Torque Range 20 to 150-Inch: Home Improvement
From time to time you can find it under $100 from Amazon. Free shipping if you're Prime. Right now it's still reasonable at about $125. UPC is 662459261977 - punch that into Google and you may be able to find it cheaper.
A Torque Wrench is not something you want to skimp on. If it is important enough that it needs to be torqued to an accurate measurement, you need a tool that will (1) give you an accurate measurement so you're not over/under torquing due to calibration or quality (2) work properly every time so that you don't over-torque (needs a clean, easy to use break).
Buy it quality, buy it once...
Last edited:
Ive been using a torque wrench that came with my LMT AR. It works great. Ill have to check who makes it.
Someone needs to edit the video of that laughing mexican guy to include something about a 20 inch 300WM barrel.
Speaking of the german, does anyone here own a 20"338 barrel that Barrett makes for the MRAD? Speed(velocity?) Don't get your hopes up, I'm not doing a 20" any time soon!
The one I'm really curious about is the 26" heavy 338 lapua. I'm wondering if recoil is non-exinsistant?
on another note, I got an email from Cheaperthandirt.com selling the 30 cal. break that was Barrett Titanium for 185$ish. Anyone use one of the Barretts breaks with can, ThunderBeast?
I've got one on order, I should have it in about a month to add to the repertoire, but I'll be glad to answer any questions once I have it if no one else beats me to it.
Last edited:
Yay someone else got the newer rail.
P.S. - Please tell me you know that your bipod is on backwards.
Anyone have a line on the sling swivel cups that go inside the rails but a version of them that won't let the sling swivel rotate? Annoying as hell to have the sling keep twisting round and round.
BT10 V8 Atlas on mine as well. That said, I think I'm going to upgrade to the newer 5-H BT35 and relocate the BT10 to the Seekins.
The older Gen1 rails don't have the cut outs at 3,9 and not sure about 6 o clock. They simply had a 'wall' with a few screw holes for attachments. The newer rails have the cut outs the entire way around.
Iv been messing around with the new 6.5 CM Lapua brass and wanted to get some thoughts on the small rifle primers. I have been using the CCI BR-4 primers and seeing some good results but haven't branched out far from that.
Got no experience there but seems to be quite a following for it with the 6.5X47 guys
Similar threads
