Yeah, that might be true, but then you'd have to wear something other than those comfy slippers.
-
Having trouble using the site?
Contact support
Maggie’s The Wood Shop
- Thread starter TxWelder35
- Start date
Yeah, that might be true, but then you'd have to wear something other than those comfy slippers.
Attache the piece that you DON'T want, to a separate piece of scrap the same length. When you DO attach that piece, offset IT so that your desired cut-line is parallel with the fence. Run the scrap up against the fence, and you'll get the cut you want with the angle on the desired piece.
Now if you're specifically wanting to keep BOTH pieces, then you'll have to shim-the-blade by adjusting the feet of the motor.
(That second part was a joke.... and hoping that the 'Taper Jig' suggested above, is more fitting)
Now if you're specifically wanting to keep BOTH pieces, then you'll have to shim-the-blade by adjusting the feet of the motor.
(That second part was a joke.... and hoping that the 'Taper Jig' suggested above, is more fitting)
First thing you need to do is look into replacing that blade or at the very least clean it.
You can free hand a cut like that, just remove the fence and cut down the line. But you have to be willing to take the additional risk associated with that, I don't see a blade guard so most of your safety devices have already been removed.
The best way may be to take a piece of plywood a little longer than your work piece and run it through the saw to get a straight cut edge. Align your pencil line with that cut edge on both ends, attach your board to the plywood and run it through. It will or should cut right down that line for you.
Man called out on blade hygiene.
Poor saw gets used once in a blue moon. Blade probably looks like shit because I am a hacker that either feels the need to push hard into the teeth or ends up torquing the blade with the wood.
Yes my blade guard was one of the first things off that beast…Major ass ache for the one or two cuts it was used.
Saw @Bigfatcock answer and went down to local ace hardware looking for an angle jig. No Bueno.
Went to the famed Arlington Coal and Lumber where the guys from this old house buy their lumber- attitude from those dudes every time a non contractor goes in there. They didnt even know what a taper jig is. Guess they mount their stuff to plywood all the time.
There is a Rockler in Cambridge but I was trying to beat the rain and didn’t want to come home smelling like pot and communism.
I want the right tool I will need to buy a taper jig.
Now do these mount and just provide a temporary stationary angled fence you set to be parallel with your cut line?
The cut I have to make is 52 inches. I want both sides. Looks like most people using the taper jig to also push the material through. I can’t do that with the length of cut.
For a cut that long you want the piece of plywood method. 6” ripper same length as your piece. Screw piece to plywood with the required offset. Run edge of plywood against fence easy-peasey.
If you are only making that one cut... Free hand, follow the line and push it through. Take a belt sander and finish off the cut edge.
Am I missing something ?
Am I missing something ?
I’m missing something…..wood working skills.
Got this though
Left hand….
Right hand
Still 5 fingers on each.
Seriously the answer here to go to Home Depot, buy a sheet of 1/2 plywood and a roll of carpet tape. rip 6” off the long side of the plywood and leave the fence on that setting. Put carpet tape along your 6” strip. Now set your work piece on it with your angle cut lined up on the straight edge of the plywood. Rip it through the table saw with same fence setting. I’ve used this method a lot. Work very well. Also use same method to rip a straight edge on a board before I had a jointer.
I did succeed in one thing today…..think I eliminated a neighbor.
Mousy guy across the street came over to ask what I was doing. Guy is the equivalent of human prey. I would usually shovel the windrow from the plow at the end of his driveway knowing he was housebound otherwise.
So he comes over asking if I had rented the tools. Wouldn’t enter his mind to buy them.
Starts talking about a local neighborhood association that wants to collect $150/house/year for road upkeep. Private ways - town doesn’t pave our roads though we pay same taxes.
He is bitching about the $150. I said after Tuesday who cares $150 is peanuts.
Than the conversation moved to the warm November and I decided to bait him more.
I said well it’s great for keeping the oil guy away “Two and a half years ago I would call the oil guy and tell him to fill it without care”.
He readily agreed said he did the same.
Than I said well it’s worth it as long as we we don’t have mean tweets anymore.
That was when he realized he was prey again.
His constant line is
“well I don’t know about that” like he is Forrest Gump.
So I went off on him about the Ukraine flags around here and these people still haven’t sent their kids over, people losing their jobs for a fake disease, everyone around here voted for it and now you are bitching about money.
He couldn’t get out of my driveway fast enough……fuck him.
Not one of these fuckers has asked what happened to the cruiser because they know and they agree with it.
Mousy guy across the street came over to ask what I was doing. Guy is the equivalent of human prey. I would usually shovel the windrow from the plow at the end of his driveway knowing he was housebound otherwise.
So he comes over asking if I had rented the tools. Wouldn’t enter his mind to buy them.
Starts talking about a local neighborhood association that wants to collect $150/house/year for road upkeep. Private ways - town doesn’t pave our roads though we pay same taxes.
He is bitching about the $150. I said after Tuesday who cares $150 is peanuts.
Than the conversation moved to the warm November and I decided to bait him more.
I said well it’s great for keeping the oil guy away “Two and a half years ago I would call the oil guy and tell him to fill it without care”.
He readily agreed said he did the same.
Than I said well it’s worth it as long as we we don’t have mean tweets anymore.
That was when he realized he was prey again.
His constant line is
“well I don’t know about that” like he is Forrest Gump.
So I went off on him about the Ukraine flags around here and these people still haven’t sent their kids over, people losing their jobs for a fake disease, everyone around here voted for it and now you are bitching about money.
He couldn’t get out of my driveway fast enough……fuck him.
Not one of these fuckers has asked what happened to the cruiser because they know and they agree with it.
Yeah if I had that knowledge I would have gave it a shot.
Rain was imminent I was running out of weather anyway.
Project is to build a platform for the fridge and freezer in my garage.
The floor is sloped toward the door for reasons you can guess .
I want a level platform to set the appliances on so it’s about an inch on the high side about 3 inches at the low end.
I’ll cover it all with 3/4 ply and reinforce with cross members.
Cop car.
Got fired for telling them no shots for me.
Still got the bikes. Reason my day became a garage project is due to a spring breaking on the garage door.
I had to move my bikes out to get access to the cables/springs.
Road King I haven’t road since My kids got old enough to take all my time.
74 Sporty that suicided itself the day I put the RK on order. Chain split and ripped the top off the sprocket cover along with the casting that mounts it.
It’s an XLCH so I need to get a boss welded on to the case and have it machined to support the kick arm.
Raise the blade a little higher than what you normally would set it and free hand, like suggested above.
Front to rear on the blade is a tad longer and will help you from drifting.
Easier than what you are considering, if you cut below your line a little and it doesn't look good on the floor, cover it w a shoe moulding, now it'll look fancy on porpoise.
Fuck your neighbor, egg his car and let it freeze, what a prick.
Front to rear on the blade is a tad longer and will help you from drifting.
Easier than what you are considering, if you cut below your line a little and it doesn't look good on the floor, cover it w a shoe moulding, now it'll look fancy on porpoise.
Fuck your neighbor, egg his car and let it freeze, what a prick.
I'm not that into woodworking yet but I watch this guy a bunch.
Another work holding thing that I've seen is masking tape on both pieces with cyanoacrelate glue in between the tape.
A quick short
The spray is activator for the CA glue.
First learned about it from nyccnc. More details.
Last edited:
Some of us should come camp out in your yard and fuck w the block
Go next town west, Lexington, to their Green and do what happens naturally.
I will meet you.
I’m not at the shop so can’t post a photo, but I made the taper jig years ago. If I didn’t have a taper jig, I would use a piece of plywood or MDF (with known straight and parallel edges) as described by others. that method works really really well.
@pmclaine This is not the plans I used but it is real close. It is simple to make and then you have it for the rest of the time you have a table saw. Not only that, once you make it, you will spend lots of time figuring out new projects that can incorporate your new found joy. https://www.thesprucecrafts.com/build-a-tapering-jig-3537064
why not use another piece thats square and carpet tape it (thats what its called here, ultra thin double sided tape) along the line you want to cut then just adjust your fence, straight edge to straight edge with the job stuck at the angle you want to cut. for a once off its quick and easy without making a jig.
Got this one finished. French Dragoon with German silver hardware.
Newest addition. About to built a mobile base for it, then rent a forklift to get this beast out of the truck
Awesome planer and what is the width? Assuming you will hook it up to a dust collector since it will throw off a serous amount of chips. Powermatic makes some excellent woodworking equipment. Have an old Model 86 Bandsaw in my shop that I rebuilt as well as a 3520B Lathe. The bandsaw is a beast and had my riggers move it into my shop since it weighs nearly 1,600lbs. Has a transmission in it and will run from 100fpm to 4,000 fpm as well as a blade welder.
It’s a 20” width, yes I’m going to rip that hunk o shit off the top and have a new collector/hood made up to hook to my dust collector
Yes but the p/o has it wired to a VFD to run off of single phase 220v
^^^. Don't say that! When I was in high school, a board had a knot about 6" from the end. I had just started a pass and the board broke causing a kickback. I had no time to react and took the entire shot to my palm. It split a bone in my wrist in half. Didn't find out it was broke for 6 months. I was in a cast for a year, surgery and pins and it's never ever going to be right.
So high schoolers can mess a lot of stuff up... I know...
So high schoolers can mess a lot of stuff up... I know...
Part of "The Learning Curve".... Better than a workman's comp claim on their first job...
Getting some shooting in this weekend:
Fuck this cupped board. I really need to get back to the mothership and my 8 ft benches:
Fuck this cupped board. I really need to get back to the mothership and my 8 ft benches:
Working on color mixing too. The goal is to get the coloration of Aqua Fortis Reagent (AFR) on maple, without having to use the AFR.
Why would I want this? To avoid the heating/blushing process, and it causes grain raise in the curl regardless of how many times you raise the grain and cut back prior to application. Also, it turns wood glue green.
For homogeneous pieces of wood like gun stocks, AFR really does not cause any issues aside from the grain raising.
However, for panels, the heating/blushing process can cause warp. For laminates and glue joints, the heating process can cause delaminating or failure of the joint due to heat. If the AFR comes into contact with wet glue, it turns it green. Also, trying to heat/blush a large chest or panel is a pain in the ass.
Here is a piece of maple stained with AFR:
Here is the same board with my water based stain concoction:
So close! @sirhrmechanic
Why would I want this? To avoid the heating/blushing process, and it causes grain raise in the curl regardless of how many times you raise the grain and cut back prior to application. Also, it turns wood glue green.
For homogeneous pieces of wood like gun stocks, AFR really does not cause any issues aside from the grain raising.
However, for panels, the heating/blushing process can cause warp. For laminates and glue joints, the heating process can cause delaminating or failure of the joint due to heat. If the AFR comes into contact with wet glue, it turns it green. Also, trying to heat/blush a large chest or panel is a pain in the ass.
Here is a piece of maple stained with AFR:
Here is the same board with my water based stain concoction:
So close! @sirhrmechanic
Thank you. I have to do some more testing on ratios in case a lighter or darker red is called for. It’s a two part application due to being water based.
I could probably create one where it would work with one coat using oil based stain due to the heavier pigments in an oil based stain.
Hey sir, do you or anyone you know make slightly, fatter oversized grips for a SAA? I have pretty large hands and my .357 Uberti feel too small to me. Would also prefer some sort of checkering for a better grip.
Aqua Faux-tis achieved!!
2 coats of a dark water based stain/dye followed by 4 coats of the reddish/brown water based stain/dye.
Really easy process and being water based dries really fast in between coats. I can modify from here if needed with more brown or red.
You could make this with an alcohol base and not have any grain rise, but the evaporation rate of alcohol is not what I want. The dark base has to be able to soak in.
I’ll share this groundbreaking recipe for $14,999.00
2 coats of a dark water based stain/dye followed by 4 coats of the reddish/brown water based stain/dye.
Really easy process and being water based dries really fast in between coats. I can modify from here if needed with more brown or red.
You could make this with an alcohol base and not have any grain rise, but the evaporation rate of alcohol is not what I want. The dark base has to be able to soak in.
I’ll share this groundbreaking recipe for $14,999.00
Do you have one or two piece grips on it right now?
Are the grips too small in the back, the front, or all around?
I recently did this shadowbox for a buddy I work with. I used hickory and oak and added glass and LEDs. He was diagnosed with pancreatic cancer last October and given a year to live so I wanted to do something special for him.
Thanks BFC. I used the scraps and made a jewelry box for my lady. Added a fleur de lis with the CNC machine.
Very nice! What CNC machine did you use? I’ve been thinking about getting one, but have no experience.
Those finger joints look good. Getting ready to make a box for my son out of curly maple. Using finger joints for corners and I’m praying that it doesn’t blow out. Should have it done by this weekend. We have some very talented people on this forum.
Similar threads
