The Bravo feels really good. I might add the adjustable height buttpad for prone shooting. Looking forward to see how far I can stretch it out.
Tikka T1X
- Thread starter jbell
- Start date
I went with the calfee4 chamber. Ryan said that that it‘s more typical for NRL22 type shooting because it feeds better.
I originally ordered the T1x non-fluted barrel with the schnoobel bulge from the IBI website. After I placed the order Ryan emailed me to say they were out of stock on those but he had a 20” bull barrel instead. Not sure if it was left over from a previous order.
The MDT weights drop right into the M-Lok slots on the Bravo. For my setup with the weights & the IBI barrel the balance point on the rifle is right in front of the Bravo mag well. As it sits the rifle is 12 1/2 lbs which make it incredibly stable.
My top three performs seems to always be SK Rifle Match, Lapua Pistol King and Center-X.
I dropped mine into an Oryx chassis, and since that moves me to open class I went ahead and topped it with a Bushnell Forge 3-18x50 that I used to use on one of my Creedmoors.
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Midway has reasonable quantities of 22LR. They have most of the SK, Eley, and Lapua brands in stock.
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SS
Unfortunately I’m in Canada so I don’t think I can order from Midway. There are some online shops up here that have some decent selection but I’m trying to find it locally first.Midway has reasonable quantities of 22LR. They have most of the SK, Eley, and Lapua brands in stock.
Rimfire Ammunition for Sale: 22lr, 22 Short, & 17 HMR Ammo | MidwayUSA
Shop Rimfire Ammunition - 22 LR, 17 HMR and other calibers of rimfire ammunition from leading brands like CCI, Winchester, Federal Premium and Remington.
SS
Picking up a t1x tomorrow and have my mdt acc chassis on the way. I am looking at a dip 0 moa rail, so I can just swap my razor between my 6.5 and the t1x. It is in a adm sl 20moa mount.
My question is that it looks like the dip rail has no cutouts for the length of the ejection opening. I am worried that my sl mount lugs will not be wide enough. Can someone measure the ejection opening for me? I want to get a 0 moa base on order tomorrow to be able to shoot this coming weekend. Area 419 only has 15 and 30 moa bases. Might have to go with egw but it is double what the dip base is.
My question is that it looks like the dip rail has no cutouts for the length of the ejection opening. I am worried that my sl mount lugs will not be wide enough. Can someone measure the ejection opening for me? I want to get a 0 moa base on order tomorrow to be able to shoot this coming weekend. Area 419 only has 15 and 30 moa bases. Might have to go with egw but it is double what the dip base is.
DIP rail won't work. I have a ADM Recon SL and it wouldn't fit. That's why I swapped to rings...
Area419 will work, it does sit a little higher. They have a sale right now. 15moa isn't bad, 15+20 to 35 is a great amount for a 22.
Cool thanks for the heads up. Do you think the 15moa area 419 would be better than an egw 0moa? They look to be about the see price.
For NRL22 / 22 PRS, you might hit out to 350-400 yards in some ranges. The NRL22 Nationals are 350 yards and you generally want a 30+ moa rail. My 25moa Tikka has barely enough dial to hit about 325 yards before it's capped out (18mil) so I'd like more moa rail.
Anarchy Outdoors also makes a nice rail for the T1X. If you are using a Razor 50 moa of adjustment should give you about 1.5-2 mils travel below zero. That’s what the ELR guys I shoot with use. They get a 30 moa rail and either the Burris XTR rings or a 20 moa Mount like yours. It works out just about perfect for a 50 yd zero. Right now I have a 30 moa AO base on my T1X and I think I’m going to get some of the Burris XTR rings so I can add another 20 MOA of cant to my scope. That will get me out past 500 yards with Eley Force.
I have the Anarchy Outdoors 30 moa rail and a 20 moa Spuhr SP-3602 with a Viper PST Gen2 5-25 and I still have 5 mil of adjustment below zero with a 25m zero. This set-up gives me 23 mil of travel above zero to see how far I can reach out with it.
So most of that went right over my head (noob SHer). Can you point me to some good resources to better understand the hell you are talking about?
Still pondering between the T1X or the CZ457 PVSR but will need a scope mount regardless.SS
I am getting the 15moa rail, mostly building the trainer to just use it 300yds and under, at local ranges. If i want to shoot anything over that, i will just goto my other range that extends to 1200yds. Then i would rather just shoot my comp guns. Thanks for the info though, glad to hear from more people that are running 1 piece mounts on a t1x
This article has a great explanation on the affect of angled bases for mounting a scope.So most of that went right over my head (noob SHer). Can you point me to some good resources to better understand the hell you are talking about?
SS
Extreme Long Range Tips 1: Optics & Mounts
When shooting targets at extreme distances (like 2000+ yards), you’ll quickly uncover some new obsta...
precisionrifleblog.com
Long Range Shooting Handbook: The Complete Beginner's Guide to Precision Rifle Shooting https://www.amazon.com/dp/151865472X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ScLNEbMHJMD2ZSo most of that went right over my head (noob SHer). Can you point me to some good resources to better understand the hell you are talking about?
SS
I have 0 moa rail. However, most of my scopes are mounted on 20 moa unimount.
Imho, 25-100 yd, her scope will be fine with a 0 moa rail. But a 20 moa rail will not hurt either. Just in case you want to shoot one to 200 yd one day and your scope run out of elevation.
Since they already have a set of rings on the scope, I guess it would depend on which would cost more money - $40.00 rail or new 11mm rings (most choices are more than the rail).
I went with the dip rail - just waiting on the gun to get here.
Saw today on a Finnish gun store’s Instagram page that there a left handed models in the wild. Given how things have been in the past, we who knows if we ever see them in the states though.
And probably doing .17HMR first, then .22LR just as they did the release of the RH T1x
Has anyone done a proper action screw torque setting test? I did a search and came up with a bunch of posts from people asking the same question but no replies other than the factory spec number. Has anyone started at a low in/lb setting and gone up to the max and seen how it effected their groupings?
Tikka Action Screw Torque | HVHA
Learn how to fine tune Tikka T3 Action Screw Torques, Tikka T3x Action Screw Torques and Tikka T1x Action Screw Torques for optimum accuracy
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I followed the above guide and had a play. There was nothing night & day that’s for sure. Nothing compared to when I’ve tweaked the 10/22 action screw that’s for sure. I only shot a couple of groups per torque setting. Perhaps I should have done more. But like I said nothing comparatively different. Just went back to 45inch/lbs in my GRS Bersrek with metal bottom metal.
I just played with the torque settings with my T1X in a Bravo chassis earlier this week. My T1X seems to prefer 25 in-lbs. At this setting, with a 5-shot group at 50 yards, the group measured ~1/3” on consecutive groups.
Anything above or below 25 in-lbs, the group size open up to 1/2-3/4”.
I 1st tighten the front action screw to 20 in-lbs., then the back also to 20. Then I tighten the front action screw to 25 in-lbs. then finally the back to 25. This yielded the best groups.
if I tighten the front action screw to 25 in-lbs. initially and then the back, the groups were not as small as if I started at 20, then 25
I was shooting Federal Gold Match Target 711B. I was able to buy this for less than $3/box just before all the ammo buying. Now the cheapest I can find is $4.70/box.
Sorry I don’t have any pictures, as I accidentally threw the paper away as I was unloading my truck.
I saw a couple threads on another forum (rimfire related) that a cpl guys shot groups at 20in-lbs to 40in-lbs. Some had better groups at the 35-40 and others had better groups at 20-25. I think if someone wants to squeeze every last bit of the accuracy out of the T1x, this test should be ran in 5in-lb increments. I would start at 25in-lbs and go up to 35 or 40in-lbs. I am sure it depends on what chassis/stock you have your BA in. I am going to be running the same test hopefully this weekend. Currently I torqued to 30in-lbs. Just got my ACC yesterday.
I have two mags for my T1x which I’ve only had for a few weeks and getting the 10th round into both of them is very difficult. Is this a common issue with these mags? Do they loosen up after a while?
I just played with the torque settings with my T1X in a Bravo chassis earlier this week. My T1X seems to prefer 25 in-lbs. At this setting, with a 5-shot group at 50 yards, the group measured ~1/3” on consecutive groups.
Anything above or below 25 in-lbs, the group size open up to 1/2-3/4”.
I 1st tighten the front action screw to 20 in-lbs., then the back also to 20. Then I tighten the front action screw to 25 in-lbs. then finally the back to 25. This yielded the best groups.
if I tighten the front action screw to 25 in-lbs. initially and then the back, the groups were not as small as if I started at 20, then 25
I was shooting Federal Gold Match Target 711B. I was able to buy this for less than $3/box just before all the ammo buying. Now the cheapest I can find is $4.70/box.
Sorry I don’t have any pictures, as I accidentally threw the paper away as I was unloading my truck.
Thanks! Thats what I was looking for! Ill give it a try starting with your method!
I don’t know if you found a solution for the light weight of the Bravo. I put the MDT exterior weighs on the outside M-Lok slots and they add 0.78lbs. You could also add a set to the bottom slots if you aren’t using them and want some more weight.
There are quite a few options to add weight. For the butt spacers I drilled out the centers of those and filled them with lead shot and epoxy. Each spacer adds about .35 pounds. For the front you can do something very similar to what I did with my MPA chassis. I needed to add weight to the front to balance it but couldn’t find weights anywhere so I improvised. Hopefully these photos will tell the story but I will explain a little as well. I made a mold using scrap plywood that I covered with packing tape. The packing tape is to keep anything from sticking to the plywood. I basically made a box the same size as the inside hollow of my chassis under the barrel. I poured a little 2 part epoxy in the mold then filled it with #8 lead shot. After the mold was full of shot I slowly covered the shot with epoxy. You need to get the kind of epoxy made for pouring on countertops like Home Depot has. 5 minute epoxy is too thick and will not flow. After 24 hours I broke everything out of the mold and hit it with a coat of black spray paint. In my case I wanted to be able to bolt this to the chassis so I drilled a few areas and imbedded the nuts I needed and used thick 5 min epoxy to secure these. I was able to add about 2 lbs to the front this way. Once the weight is cast it’s pretty easy to cut and can be designed to fit pretty much any chassis with room under the barrel
I am looking at 30 MOA rails to attach to a T1X.
From previous threads it looks like the DIP rail is not a good option.
Between the Area 419 and the Anarchy rail, what is the better option? I know that Area 419 makes good stuff, but the Anarchy has a built in level.
I plan to do some NRL22 so having the level built in seems like a good option.
From previous threads it looks like the DIP rail is not a good option.
Between the Area 419 and the Anarchy rail, what is the better option? I know that Area 419 makes good stuff, but the Anarchy has a built in level.
I plan to do some NRL22 so having the level built in seems like a good option.
I have the area419 base and love it. I always run a level on my optics though, so it wasn't something I needed.
I have 5 magazines so I can load a box at a time. 7000+ rounds down the barrel and yes, they get easier to load. The last round is still more difficult than the first 9, but not that bad.
i have products from both companies. Area 419 makes some awesome gear as does AO. Honestly I would get whichever you can get cheaper. I have the AO rail but basically got that one because they were running a sale at the time. The bubble level on it is nice but I have never used it so I can’t say how useful it really is. I have a level on my chassis as well as an electronic level built into my scope (Sig levelplex) so I have never needed to use it.
I have a area 419 it works well and is nicely built. Have no experience with the Anarchy but a level would be nice and Im sure it would be built fine. They dont get a lot of abuse from recoil on these .22 so they dont have to be super robust just machined well.
I'll be getting one of the lefty T1x's as soon as possible for my personal rifle.
Also a video of the UPR T1x
Also a video of the UPR T1x
Oh man UPR.... that looks like the borrowed really nicely from KRG. I love it, wish that was available when I was putting mine together....but nicely done Tikka. Give the people what they want. They are definitely listening to the market.
You and me both Jon!!!!! About flipping time.
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