Beat the rain today and got out for a little practice this afternoon! Wind wasn't bad but it was a little shifty, was able to get hits out to 300 after figuring out my adjustment...15mils.
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Tikka T1X
- Thread starter jbell
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Beat the rain today and got out for a little practice this afternoon! Wind wasn't bad but it was a little shifty, was able to get hits out to 300 after figuring out my adjustment...15mils.
Except that apparently, the aftermarket barrels are cut for the RH action? Sounds like feeding issues waiting to happen. But if you've found a solution, interested to hear it.
Tikka T1X
Pulled out the hi-tech bench then cut some bushes to get to 50 and shoot some groups. 10MPH swirling wind just tried to shoot when the conditions felt the same. Both of the Aguila ammo had super sonic rounds and it really killed the Eley primed groups.
www.snipershide.com
Hi All - my first post here. I have read through most of the 88 pages and found very good advice and information here. I have ordered a Tikka T1x but might have to wait till early next year for shipment to arrive here in South Africa. The T1x will go in my KRG Whiskey-3 Gen 4 chassis that I will modify as illustrated by "cannonfire" on page 58. My question:- Will it fit? My trigger guard looks different (see attached picture), it has more metal where the magazine release is situated.
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I went with International Barrels since they are Canadian and I've shot with the owner a number of times and I'm happy to support his business.
It will line up with the extractor on the left but my IBI barrel did have a feed ramp machined in for a right handed action. So far it feeds well enough from a mag at home but I haven't taken it to the range yet to see.
Have mine all built up and just waiting for a pleasant day to get through a few hundred rounds of SK ammo to see what it likes best.
Except that apparently, the aftermarket barrels are cut for the RH action? Sounds like feeding issues waiting to happen. But if you've found a solution, interested to hear it.
Tikka T1X
Pulled out the hi-tech bench then cut some bushes to get to 50 and shoot some groups. 10MPH swirling wind just tried to shoot when the conditions felt the same. Both of the Aguila ammo had super sonic rounds and it really killed the Eley primed groups.
The IBI I received was in fact set up for a right handed action. I had emailed them and they said it would work left so I was a bit disappointed with it when I received it, but I want to see how it performs before I get bent out of shape. If it doesn't work I have complete faith they will make it right (well, left...).
So far, seems to feed and extract snap caps just fine, so I am hopeful there won't be any mangling of the lead bullet when I run the action. I'm just leery of doing so at home and have been avoiding some chilly weather at the range lately. This week is supposed to warm up so I expect to find out Friday if you can wait that long to find out.
Bought a Delta Javelin 4.5-30x56 FFP to go on the T1x.
Any experience on here with this scope?
Any experience on here with this scope?
Thanks for the details, looking forward to your update on how this works. I kinda' want to believe you that it will.
But am holding off ordering a .17 HMR until I hear how this goes. Because honestly, with other rifles put out by large companies that let you do switch-barrel, I can't think of that many that let you switch between .22lr and .17HMR. Isn't the caliber switching on same rifle usually like .22lr > 17 HM2, and .17 HMR > .22 Mag? I assume that's usually due to differences that would be caused by feeding issues, and I thought maybe differences in the bolts and extractors too, but not sure exactly how the T1x works. But it's a great idea, give us an update when you can!As a side note, I can't for the life of me figure out why Tikka would ship the .17 HMR LH rifles to North America FIRST, before the .22lr. They have to know that .22lr is the rifle everyone is looking for.
The Titan cheek rest - can you still remove the bolt with the cheek rest on?
Thanks for the details, looking forward to your update on how this works. I kinda' want to believe you that it will.
As a side note, I can't for the life of me figure out why Tikka would ship the .17 HMR LH rifles to North America FIRST, before the .22lr. They have to know that .22lr is the rifle everyone is looking for.
Earlier in the thread @Kisssofdeath reported that the 17 HMR bolt worked fine with the 22LR but the opposite was not so much the case. There are differences between the extractors, please see my earlier post on that with the Tikka product information. I took it on faith that the 17 HMR bolt would work, and thus far with the snap caps it is performing well. I plan to head to the range tomorrow to test it out so stay tuned.
As for Tikka putting out the 17 HMR first, I also scratch my head at that. Seems awfully boneheaded to me.
Sure can. Plenty of room before it gets near the cheek rest.
@keenedge @Kisssofdeath
Well, I finally got to the range today to try my new IBI 22LR barrel with a stack of SK ammo. And then I had three fails to extract in a row and that's the end of that for the time being.
Sigh.
I was able to load and extract 22LR ammo just fine without firing it, but once fired the ammo would not extract AT ALL. Had to push it out with a rod, so after three in a row I was done for the day as I didn't want to mess around with things on the line.
I had measured the rim thickness of the SK ammo and the depth of the recess in the bolt and found them to be pretty much the same so I mounted the barrel resting against the bolt face. Perhaps this was too short a headspace? I will probably get a headspace gauge and try that, but that is a several week endeavour since it will be coming up from the US.
Attached are some images for you to ponder:
The three rounds I fired off. So, I think I figured out the issue - the IBI barrel is upside down, so the feed ramp is on the top, which is where the firing pin is as well. I suspect, based on the saddle shape to the rim of the cartridge that the lack of support to the rim where the firing pin hits is allowing the case to deform such that the extraction is compromised.
This would explain why @Kisssofdeath had no problems with the combination and I did. I'm going to see if IBI can swap me a barrel with the correct feed ramp.
Really hard to make out but the ammo itself that was loaded and extracted is slightly gouged but not horribly so. A feed ramp in the right spot would help with this.
I'm also going to try to lay hands on a 22LR extractor to see if that helps.
I need a beer.
Well, I finally got to the range today to try my new IBI 22LR barrel with a stack of SK ammo. And then I had three fails to extract in a row and that's the end of that for the time being.
Sigh.
I was able to load and extract 22LR ammo just fine without firing it, but once fired the ammo would not extract AT ALL. Had to push it out with a rod, so after three in a row I was done for the day as I didn't want to mess around with things on the line.
I had measured the rim thickness of the SK ammo and the depth of the recess in the bolt and found them to be pretty much the same so I mounted the barrel resting against the bolt face. Perhaps this was too short a headspace? I will probably get a headspace gauge and try that, but that is a several week endeavour since it will be coming up from the US.
Attached are some images for you to ponder:
The three rounds I fired off. So, I think I figured out the issue - the IBI barrel is upside down, so the feed ramp is on the top, which is where the firing pin is as well. I suspect, based on the saddle shape to the rim of the cartridge that the lack of support to the rim where the firing pin hits is allowing the case to deform such that the extraction is compromised.
This would explain why @Kisssofdeath had no problems with the combination and I did. I'm going to see if IBI can swap me a barrel with the correct feed ramp.
Really hard to make out but the ammo itself that was loaded and extracted is slightly gouged but not horribly so. A feed ramp in the right spot would help with this.
I'm also going to try to lay hands on a 22LR extractor to see if that helps.
I need a beer.
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LooseGoose- nice shooting. One question, what ammo are you shooting? (Not sure but the first miss on purpose sounded supersonic.)
Cheers,
Cheers,
That was Eley contact. Supposed to be subsonic, but I didn't feel like pulling my chrono out to verify. It was getting dark fast. As with most things the video sounds louder than it does in person, cell phone microphone picks and chooses what it wants for sound balancing. I hope to get more data the next time out.
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I set up my T1X to be a trainer for my Sako TRG. I dropped it in a KRG Bravo stock (Sako green of course) and mounted the same 3-12 scope in an AI dovetail mount. It feels VERY similar to my TRG.
I got out this past weekend with a buddy and put 140 rounds through it. I was tickled with the way it shot. A pleasingly consistent 10 round group at 50 yards off a bipod and rear bag. I also shot some 5 shot groups at 100 yards, one inch circle targets. I love this rifle!
I got out this past weekend with a buddy and put 140 rounds through it. I was tickled with the way it shot. A pleasingly consistent 10 round group at 50 yards off a bipod and rear bag. I also shot some 5 shot groups at 100 yards, one inch circle targets. I love this rifle!
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Calling @keenedge and all the other left handed shooters out there!
Just got an email back from IBI regarding my problem with their RH barrel on my LH T1x. They indicated they would be doing a run of lefty barrels in a few weeks, so if you are thinking about the 17 HMR to 22 LR conversion that @Kisssofdeath described earlier, this might be a great way to get things done. They are going to swap out my barrel, so that's a good solution in my opinion and I can't complain.
I do have go and no-go gauges as well as a 22 LR extractor on route, so I should be able to report clearly on whether the extractor needs to change on the LH setup or whether it will work like @Kisssofdeath has on his RH.
More to follow once I have all the bits and bobs in hand.
Just got an email back from IBI regarding my problem with their RH barrel on my LH T1x. They indicated they would be doing a run of lefty barrels in a few weeks, so if you are thinking about the 17 HMR to 22 LR conversion that @Kisssofdeath described earlier, this might be a great way to get things done. They are going to swap out my barrel, so that's a good solution in my opinion and I can't complain.
I do have go and no-go gauges as well as a 22 LR extractor on route, so I should be able to report clearly on whether the extractor needs to change on the LH setup or whether it will work like @Kisssofdeath has on his RH.
More to follow once I have all the bits and bobs in hand.
Take a look at this
DIP T1x Aluminum Magazine Base
I have never been enamored of the T1x magazine set-up with it hanging below the stock like a tumor (not to offend anyone who likes that, however :). I believe HotRod at DIP has developed a nice aluminum magazine base that alters that so the mag is nearly flush with the bottom of the stock. I...
www.rimfirecentral.com
thanks, that's quite a bit betterTake a look at this
DIP T1x Aluminum Magazine Base
I have never been enamored of the T1x magazine set-up with it hanging below the stock like a tumor (not to offend anyone who likes that, however :). I believe HotRod at DIP has developed a nice aluminum magazine base that alters that so the mag is nearly flush with the bottom of the stock. I...
Great info, thanks again for posting the updates. Maybe when you are done, if you get it all working good you can post a short summary of the complete set of recommend "conversion" steps going from .17 HMR > .22lr with a T1X. For North American LH shooters, this might be the only path to getting a T1X at the rate we're going.
ETA: In other news, I ran out of patience waiting for the T1x LH .22lr and ordered a Vudoo last week. But if the LH .22lr T1X arrives here next year, I'll probably get one anyway to have something in a light sporter setup.
I'm ready to add a T1X to the gun safe to use in NRL22 Base Class.
I'm planning on shooting suppressed if the can doesn't adversely effect accuracy.
What is the consensus on 16" vs. 20" barrels ?
I'm planning on shooting suppressed if the can doesn't adversely effect accuracy.
What is the consensus on 16" vs. 20" barrels ?
I have a Gemtech Outback II D that will get the nod.
I could Form 1 a Titanium can too...
I was reading about the Dead Air Mask not changing POI. That is my plan once I get the funds.
I went with a 20" because I planned on putting it in a chassis and it balanced better.
Accuracy shouldn't be affected, and you don't get a real velocity benefit from 20".
If you're using a lightweight or factory stock and it'll be primarily suppressed I think you'd appreciate the 16".
Thought I would share a sear adjustment I added to my T1X trigger, this is the second one I have done first one got me down to 8 oz, which I use only from the bench. I still need to drill for tension pins. A over travel adjustment can be added as well by drilling and tapping another 6/32 hole for the adjustment screw.
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Thanks KOD....I will put it back together tomorrow and see what pull weight I get
Maybe you should offer a trigger service. I've not been able to get mine below 19 oz without problems
I thought about it, the triggers are all a bit different, some will go lower then others, I do think it will improve any of them, one has to remember ,these triggers are not really designed to go that low and I would never use one for anything but bench use, I think if you keep the pull around 14-16 oz most would be safe.
I installed the trigger after I added the sear adjustment block, got the pull down to 8 oz just like before, I tested it quite a bit and no slam fires so far, may take it to the range today for the real world test. One thing of note, sometimes you have to stone the safety bar where it contacts the trigger to get it to function, takes just a few thousandths to correct it, this is due to the trigger being pushed forward by the adjustment screw I didnt have to do that on the first one I did. Be safe.
I use one. Had a heck of time getting it work right. Clearance issues in factory stock and then the bolt handle would drag on the safety got that figured out but it would still occasionaly drop the firing pin on bolt close. I put it in a Bravo stock and all issue went away so far. Great trigger but I think it works better in the T3
I was planning on using it with the Bravo. Even the safety touching the bolt stopped with the chassis?
Very happy with how my 16in gun shoots. I wanted the 16 for shooting suppressed and mine will be staying in the factory stock.
No I had to bend it out a little to get it to quit rubbing and then remove some material from the stock to make up the difference. I have seen somewhere that others have ground on the bottom of the bolt lever to clearance or ground off the top of the safety lever.
Was shooting my t1x to get my tuner set...and my entire trigger came loose. Anyone had any issues with this?
Whats the correct torque spec and can i blue loctitie it?
Whats the correct torque spec and can i blue loctitie it?
I often need torque specs and simply go to the internet. I search for something like "4-40 torque spec" and Engineers Edge will come up with a table for various sizes and material that they are being tapped into. You have to be careful though because many tables are based on one and a half diameters of the fastener size or some other factor. I have seen too many screws stuck with Loctite. Even the very lite #222 Purple can be too aggressive if you apply too much. I have been using Allen bow string wax on small screws since about 1990 with good success.
Bow string wax is what I recommend. It also wont seep or wick into the trigger unit. eBay has it among others. Even Walmart has the stuff
in the archery dept.
Bow string wax is what I recommend. It also wont seep or wick into the trigger unit. eBay has it among others. Even Walmart has the stuff
in the archery dept.
Has anyone put the tikka T1x in the oryx tikka chaasis for tikka short actions? Im curious if i can “share” a chassis for a bit until i can purchase another chassis.
i asked this question in the past and according to the answers and my research it's a no-go without modifying the chassis a decent amount.
