The v2 doesn't have the ejector wire anymore. If you don't see what looks like part of a paperclip inside the receiver near the top of the mag well, yours is a v2.
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Tikka T1X
- Thread starter jbell
- Start date
Late to the party here; does this come in a 16'' 18'' and 20'' barrel variation or is it only offered as a 16'' barrel length?
edit: looks like 16'' and 20''? what are recommendations for a bench-rest shooter, 16 or 20?
edit edit: went with 20''.
edit: looks like 16'' and 20''? what are recommendations for a bench-rest shooter, 16 or 20?
edit edit: went with 20''.
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The ejector is part of the mag well but you can't just drop it in. The bolt on the v2 is narrower on the bottom, so would require machining to convert.
Well, I guess that eliminates that particular option. Back to trying different and
subtle changes in the profile of the "paper clip". Thanks for the info.
subtle changes in the profile of the "paper clip". Thanks for the info.
I have one with the newer ejector. So far it’s awesome, I never had the old style Ainu have no idea if it’s as accurate or not.
Does anyone know if there is a MLok pic rail that extends out from an Oryx chassis under the barrel like some of the Arca rails do? I hope I have explained it correctly, but I am wanting to get my bipod out further under the barrel to put some weights on the chassis and under the forearm is the only place I can put them but I need to extend my rail or find one that can mount and have the length to go under my barrel. Thanks.
M-LOK Rails & T-Nuts
Picatinny rails with an M-LOK configuration plus the highest quality T-Nuts.
genuinelongshot.com
They have stuff up to 16" long
Area 419 would be the first place I looked - Cyber Monday Sale is still on for a couple more hours
What’s the lowest scope rings you can use with the 419 30 MOA with a 42mm objective? I’m gonna run a Swfa 10x on my t1x. I have some Swfa low rings I’m not using that are .80 and maybe a set of low Seekins that are .82
Since it’s still in my clipboard, I ended up with 0.97” rings for a 50mm over a 25 MOA DIP rail with flip caps. Fingers crossed for when it all arrives.
Got the new LH T1x to the range first time--excellent precision after sight-in and 100% feeding/firing reliability.
When I got home to clean, noticed some inconsistency on the breech face, the lower part of the chamber at about 6:00. I have dry fired it maybe 15 - 20 times since getting it new and taking it to the range and put about 50rd of CCI through it. But otherwise haven't done anything to it.
Is the breech face damaged, or is this normal for a T1? Not used to seeing my other rimfire breech faces look this rough.
When I got home to clean, noticed some inconsistency on the breech face, the lower part of the chamber at about 6:00. I have dry fired it maybe 15 - 20 times since getting it new and taking it to the range and put about 50rd of CCI through it. But otherwise haven't done anything to it.
Is the breech face damaged, or is this normal for a T1? Not used to seeing my other rimfire breech faces look this rough.
Hello,
Yes, I custom mold my Cheek Risers to fit many different stocks, including the Tikka T1x. I also has Low Profile Allen Key Hardware as well as the Quick Adjustment Knob hardware. I just only have the Quick Adjustment Knob hardware on Amazon. The rest is on my site
I can also do images, camo patterns, etcetera on colored Kydex.
If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask.
Sincerely,
Matthew
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I also offer low profile hardware on my website so you can minutely adjust the Cheek Riser exactly where you need it for Actual Perfect Eye alignment with your Scope & no worries about the knobs. I just don't have that on Amazon like the link above.
I can also do Infused Images as shown in the attached photo.
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Here is the breech on a 2nd rifle, maybe 2K rounds. Looks a bit off, and this one does not shoot as well as the first one.Here is one that I would call normal. But, this is with 6K rounds thru it.
However, if you are satisfied with the way it shoots and functions, I would not worry about it. If you are concerned send it in.
What causes the groove above the chamber? Mine has it too.Here is one that I would call normal. But, this is with 6K rounds thru it.
However, if you are satisfied with the way it shoots and functions, I would not worry about it. If you are concerned send it in.
Thanks for the replies, all makes sense.
Mostly wondered if this should be seen as normal for a new T1x OEM chamber mouth. Again confirming that the rifle shoots great so far, so as long as it works I can live with it not looking pretty. But it just looks a bit off, compared to the breech face on my other .22's. At about 6:00, it's almost like there's a tiny bevel or ramp cut into the chamber mouth.
Here's a better pic enlarged, with an arrow pointing to the area I'm looking at.
Mostly wondered if this should be seen as normal for a new T1x OEM chamber mouth. Again confirming that the rifle shoots great so far, so as long as it works I can live with it not looking pretty. But it just looks a bit off, compared to the breech face on my other .22's. At about 6:00, it's almost like there's a tiny bevel or ramp cut into the chamber mouth.
Here's a better pic enlarged, with an arrow pointing to the area I'm looking at.
I got mine in 2020. Tikka definitely added a "feed ramp" after production. I say that because the cut isn't blued.
Just saw some of these posts about the T3x recoil pad.
Can you drop a barreled T1x action directly into a T3x OEM stock? Or is it only the recoil pad that's reusable on the T1x? I have a spare T3x OEM sitting around.
It'll drop in, the stock on T1x is exactly the same other than butt pad.
Matthew posts like this are against the rules of the forum
Please either upgrade to a commercial account or you have to stop posting ads to your service and products
We get small one-man shop, SH is a one-man shop too, so please be respectful and follow the rules like others do, it's only fair
The T1x will also drop right into the Tikka CTR stock. I did this to both my 22lr and 17HMR for the advantage of the raised cheek rest. The bottom plate of the T1x is slightly narrower than the CTR bottom metal but will also bolt right in the CTR stock and uses same action screws. Bolt pattern and length of bottom plates are the same. I did transfer both the plastic horns from the T1x stocks to the CTR stocks. Same bolt pattern there also.
Here is my T1x 17HMR in factory Tikka CTR stock.
Here is my T1x 17HMR in factory Tikka CTR stock.
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I'm waiting for my T1X to be released from FFL but in the mean time a question popped up in my head. Can you use a heavy .223 compensator on a T1X or other rimfire? I have a SJC Titan which is quite a chunk collecting dust, I'm not sure if it could affect in any negative way barrel harmonics or something alike. My Tikka comes with threaded barrel. Are there any potential downsides/issues to such combo?
Given how dirty .22 is it leads to fouling the compensator quickly. Since the lube component is soft I've seen it "hang" in the way and would get the random wild flyer from it. By wild, I'm talking several feet from where I was holding at 100.
This was on my T1x with a Harrel's AR Tuner brake and a sample size of one, but is what I experienced with it. Not had the issue since switching to a regular Cortina tuner.
I have been looking for a lefty in 22LR. I can only find 17. Does any one know where I can find one?
Hey Aggie,
I seen one at Scheels in Omaha a while back. You might try checking with them and they can do a computer search of their stores.
Hope that helps
I seen one at Scheels in Omaha a while back. You might try checking with them and they can do a computer search of their stores.
Hope that helps
Got her in in, now to see how she shoots (I moved the rear ring back after the pic).
ScopeList had them today. On order
Now I need to figure out a left handed stock or chassis to put on it.
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My T1X is a little different - it has an additional piece of rounded plastic (a bit like a section of a cone) screwed into the forend. It's removable, though, which then makes it look exactly like a T3X.
JK. They just called me and said that they didn't have one to ship me and no ETA on when one will be delivered. So I guess I am cancelling and will find a new one some where else.
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Eurooptic is the same place as scopelist. I haven't seen any lefty t1x in 22 anywhere that isn't back ordered.
A bold and dubious idea, you may want to give a call to Beretta/Tikka and see if they would be so kind to tell you any details about when was the last batch of such specific rifles sent out, is there one coming and so on. These being a product they probably make a batch every full moon combined with eager to be happy customer may result in someone at the corpo being extra helpful. 95% sure they won't tell you a thing but who knows...
Might depend on who you get, and how your local Beretta rolls ...
I was after an obscure part a few years back, the kind of thing that no shop would just keep in stock. Phoned Beretta; fella I spoke to personally dropped it around to my preferred shop the very next day ...
Got the T1x set up with a T3x OEM stock and enhanced pistol grip. The rings that worked for the scope's 50mm objective and still room for caps were the EGW HD lows (0.850" from pic rail top to centerline). With the 3/8" pad in the stock comb kit, it gives a good cheek weld.
Question on torque values for the action screws. The generic Tikka manual says up to 44 in/lbs front/rear for plastic stocks. Seeing some online discussion, decided to start with 35 front, 40 rear. Has anyone found optimal torque values, or is it just different per rifle/ammo?
Question on torque values for the action screws. The generic Tikka manual says up to 44 in/lbs front/rear for plastic stocks. Seeing some online discussion, decided to start with 35 front, 40 rear. Has anyone found optimal torque values, or is it just different per rifle/ammo?
The general consensus on Torque values with the shoehorn in is right around 30 in/lbs. Other rifles that have the shoehorn taken out appear to have a wide variance in the torque value they appear like.
I just started at 10 in/lbs and worked my way up in 2.5 in/lb increments. One rifle shot best at 30 in/lbs, another at 20 in/lbs - both with the shoehorn in.
Oddly enough, on the 30 in/lb rifle there appears to be 2 settings that improve the accuracy, one at 17.5 in/lbs and then at 30 in/lbs.
I just started at 10 in/lbs and worked my way up in 2.5 in/lb increments. One rifle shot best at 30 in/lbs, another at 20 in/lbs - both with the shoehorn in.
Oddly enough, on the 30 in/lb rifle there appears to be 2 settings that improve the accuracy, one at 17.5 in/lbs and then at 30 in/lbs.
I took my shoe horn out last week and shot with out at 30in lbs and did not see any improvement in accuracy. I have put it back in and hope to get back out this weekend. What is everybody else seeing, shoehorn or no shoehorn?
Okay I will bite. What is a "shoehorn". Maybe the plastic recoil lug?? If so, how do you remove it as mine is in there really tight. I have a metal lug from Mountain Tactical that I would like to try if I could get the plastic one out. Has anyone noticed improved accuracy with a metal recoil lug?
