They do have it in left handed version! I'm late to the dance with this response but I just received my T1x on Wed. I also have a CZ MTR that is a nail driver.
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Tikka T1X
- Thread starter jbell
- Start date
Just curious... are you using the OEM bolt knob or aftermarket bent? I had weak ejection when using the bent Sterk bolt handles. Switched to Luke's big knob on the OEM handle & ejection improved to 99% reliable, I had one empty case that didn't kick out at the last match, and that easily could have been poor technique shooting off an unstable prop. Some of the NRL22X positions make it difficult to run the bolt.
Getting ES’s of over 250 fps in my new 17hmr. Garmin xero is not the issue. Split necks as well. Incorrectly assembled rifle? CCI A-17 and TNT ammo.
Unless the shoulder is obviously deformed I doubt it is the chamber. There are reports of these issues since the 17 HMR was released. If you look around you'll even find pics of un-fired rounds with the necks already showing a crack.
All of my 17 HMR ammo shows an ES of 150+. It’s amazing it ever shoots tiny groups.
Wow, wish I knew that before I bought it. I knew there weren’t really match equivalents and I have shot turkey heads and necks with my other rifle at 150 yards before so figured it wasn’t that bad lol.
Mine will still shoot sub MOA at 100 and has done plenty good to 150. Before I put a chronograph on it I would never have believed it was so variable.
Wondering how far and what accuracy folks are getting with the factory 16.5 twist .22LR barrel at distance (200-300yds) ?
Does it fall apart at a certain distance or hold its own?
Does it fall apart at a certain distance or hold its own?
Mine spread SK 6”-7” vertically at 200. CCISV was more like 8”+. At 300 the vertical was more like 15”. 10 shot groups. A couple cases of CCISV and a couple cases of SK through it. Others say their’s are great, but I don’t see a lot of 10 shot groups at 200+, funny thing that…. My IBI 12T barrel cut vertical about 40%.
Last outing on paper was 4.25" @ 200 and 6.5" @ 300 with Norma Match, was only the second time I have used it. Prefer SK, but was all I could get.
I have not adjusted the tuner at 100 for it yet.
Just one crappy one, couldn't see what I was doing, so several pics of blank paper.
Will see if I still have the target.
ETA:
This is also a 16" barrel with Cortina v1 Tuner in the factory stock with the shoe horn removed.
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That vertical is what mine looked like too, although 10 is a minimum to get a sound idea of what to expect. At 200+ I usually do 20 shot groups so I can predict a hit percentage on target size I expect to see at a match.
I just got my T1x 17HMR put together. Everything is assembled to manufacturers' specifications. Hoping to get a basic sight in, barrel break in, and some chronograph data on a few varieties of ammunition tomorrow.
Not sure I like the height of the scope rings. Might go down to a medium height but we shall see about that.
Not sure I like the height of the scope rings. Might go down to a medium height but we shall see about that.
What aftermarket bolt handles and knobs are recommended for the t1x? I know of Anarchy Outdoor’s and the Sterk. I have to break position and move my support hand to grab the stock each time I work the bolt due to the resistance, and I wonder if a swept handle with a heavier knob would help that. I am, however, newer to the .22 scene and am learning as I go.
Try the technique of pressing down with thumb when you break bolt open with the top of your index finger. After you draw straight back, then try to close bolt with linear thumb press on back of bolt shourd. Lstly, arm/close bolt with thumb again pressing down on stock, using index only. See if this helps.
I will try that tonight! Thank you.Try the technique of pressing down with thumb when you break bolt open with the top of your index finger. After you draw straight back, then try to close bolt with linear thumb press on back of bolt shourd. Lstly, arm/close bolt with thumb again pressing down on stock, using index only. See if this helps.
I purchased a secondhand GRS Stock yesterday from a local Gunshop . I made them an offer which was very low expecting them to make a counter offer .
The guy just said , " It's Christmas , so I guess you now own a GRS Stock " .
To be honest I really don't like the aesthetics of these Stocks , but when I picked it up in the store the ergonomics just felt right .
The plan was to try it on my T3 which is away getting rebarrelled , but it occurred to me when I got home that the T1x would fit the Stock .
So today I put it together and we will see over the holiday period if I like the Stock and also how it goes on the T1x .
The guy just said , " It's Christmas , so I guess you now own a GRS Stock " .
To be honest I really don't like the aesthetics of these Stocks , but when I picked it up in the store the ergonomics just felt right .
The plan was to try it on my T3 which is away getting rebarrelled , but it occurred to me when I got home that the T1x would fit the Stock .
So today I put it together and we will see over the holiday period if I like the Stock and also how it goes on the T1x .
They look and feel goofy until you mount and shoot it. Super comfy prone also. The only downside is shooting support side during a NRL22 match. I was looking for one myself, when I couldn't find one and got a Bell & Carlson M40 stock.I purchased a secondhand GRS Stock yesterday from a local Gunshop . I made them an offer which was very low expecting them to make a counter offer .
The guy just said , " It's Christmas , so I guess you now own a GRS Stock " .
To be honest I really don't like the aesthetics of these Stocks , but when I picked it up in the store the ergonomics just felt right .
The plan was to try it on my T3 which is away getting rebarrelled , but it occurred to me when I got home that the T1x would fit the Stock .
So today I put it together and we will see over the holiday period if I like the Stock and also how it goes on the T1x .
Mike
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I am assuming that you oil the bolt. Also, try putting some grease on the slides at the back of the action that the bolt runs on. I tried the Anarchy bolt handle and took it off again. It was a bit longer and so the extra leverage made it slower to use. I went back to the factory bolt handle with a rubber ball on the end.
Apply grease here;
Like a derlin (or whatever) ball for winter like TRG...
Any pics or details on this mod?
Look 4 posts up at Harronek's rifle (Post 5581). Just like that. It is just a slip-on rubber ball. You can get them from Tikka or get the 2 pack Tourbon ones on Amazon. Once you get it on there it stays put. I've had no slippage in dozens of matches.Like a derlin (or whatever) ball for winter like TRG...
Any pics or details on this mod?
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That’s what I use as wellLook 4 posts up at Harronek's rifle (Post 5581). Just like that. It is just a slip-on rubber ball. You can get them from Tikka or get the 2 pack Tourbon ones on Amazon. Once you get it on there it stays put. I've had no slippage in dozens of matches.
Looking at getting a Tx1 with the 16" barrel for a lightweight youth build. Currently, what's the lightest chassis option with a LOP as short as 10 ish inches?
You maybe better off with a trad wood stock and saw off the back end to correct length. This is also possibly better for trigger pull witha a sloping grip that can be choked up on. Keep in mind the tikka trigger doesn't adjust fore/aft, so you'll be stuck with whatever grip-trigger distance is standard on your chassis (probably won't fit diminutive bone structures).
advice on Tikka compact stock/short LOP
other than an ad on the marketplace any thoughts on how to get a Tikka compact stock or shorten LOP? Want to train a young shoot and almost 14" is just far too long. KRG Bravo would be 12.8" as a last ditch option, open to others
www.snipershide.com
The MDT LSS GEN 2 Chassis with a carbine buffer tube and a magpul CTR buttstock would get you close to a 10 in lop. The chassis by itself is 1.5 lbs, buttstock 9 oz and buffer tube around 4 or 5 ounces.
Thanks for all the information in this thread. Great stuff! I went ahead and picked up a 20” MTR. Added a Tikka vertical grip, butt pad and spacers from a CTR, Mathew’s cheek riser, Mtn Tactical trigger spring set to 1.5 lbs to match my T3x 6.5 CM, MDT 20 MOA rail. Burris XTR3.
Then I added about a pound of lead and epoxy in the butt stock and fore end. Finally, I decided to try my hand at a spray paint camo. I love this thing so far. Only shot it at the 25 yard indoor range so far. Too cold for me the last couple of weeks.
Then I added about a pound of lead and epoxy in the butt stock and fore end. Finally, I decided to try my hand at a spray paint camo. I love this thing so far. Only shot it at the 25 yard indoor range so far. Too cold for me the last couple of weeks.
If you’re shooting inside 50 give CCI SV a try. Both my T1X and B14R shoot it very well.
Luke on here makes a nice 3D bolt knob for the T1X
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You are a exceptionally gifted and very lucky to have such a fine rifle. A brief review of 6x5 results over the last few years suggests that you are in the top few percentile of the finest shooters shooting the finest of equipment fed the very best of ammo on this forum. Welcome to the forum. I shall follow along on your future posts.
Sub moa doesn’t mean 1/2 inch. Period. I’m very well aware that 1/2 is less than one.
Wow. YES. 1/2 inch is sub moa at 100 yards. Really, dude? MOA is 1.047 inches.
.5 < 1.047. 2 OTHER rifles will ALSO shoot sub moa. They typically group .6 to .85 inches. ALL 3 are sub moa. (Less than 1.047 inches)
SK Standard plus for the Tikka. Eley club is the best for the other 2.
In the Tikka, Eley club groups .8-.9 inch. Get it now?
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I think you’re confusing two groups with two types of ammo he mentions. SK is .5 and Eley is under an inch yet
I know what sub moa means, DUDE!!! 15/16” is sub moa but that’s not 1/2” at 100. Basically what others have said you must be one of the top 22 shooters in the world.
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