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Tikka T1X
- Thread starter jbell
- Start date
Yes - I did too. I called yesterday because happened to notice the address on my invoice said I lived in GUAM ! Thought I better call and clarify that one. The lady I spoke was very nice - I imagine much of their crew has been at the SHOT Show.
I got the 25MOA rail today in the mail. Pretty fast since I ordered it last Thursday. It looks real good and even has a groove to slide over the Tikka Weaver rail. Now to get out and sight in - stopped snowing here today and tomorrow a high of 32 with 5mph 'breeze'. We'll see.
Good deal. I ordered mine Friday, maybe I will get it this week. Although we are headed into lo of -3F high of 23F followed by low of 8F high of 10F ... so who knows 
The DIP options that I saw had either 0 MOA or 25. With the 25MOA rail I'll be using the lower portion of vertical adjustment range and have the majority of vertical adjustment to go up. The 0 MOA may work OK but to me, there is more flexibility with the 25 MOA.
I'm only shooting 22LR - with 17HMR - you really may want more vertical clicks to work with. IMO.
I'm only shooting 22LR - with 17HMR - you really may want more vertical clicks to work with. IMO.
Thanks SporterII. I couldn't figure why I'd need more than a bit of elevation from the middle of the reticle since bullet runs out of steam for killing ground squirrels sooner than I would run out of elevation in a flat rail. Just thought I'd confirm my thinking. Now with a 22 lr... I'd be getting the 25 rail for sure.
Mine got here today as well. I cleaned the barrel and action, coated everything in BreakFree and adjusted the trigger. Does anyone have a number for the torque on stock screws.
Page 11 of the manual says:
Installation is carried out in reverse order. Tighten the receiver screws to a torque of 7 Nm (62 in-lbs) in metallic trigger guards and max. 5Nm (44 in-lbs) in plastic trigger guards. Make sure to put metallic recoil block (B) in place into stock and pull barreled receiver backwards before tightening the receiver screws in order to remove the slack from the recoil lug.
manual is available at following link https://www.tikka.fi/support/instruction-manuals-1
I know as men we should not need manuals, but i have learned the more precise the equipment the more likely you need to read the manual.
Installation is carried out in reverse order. Tighten the receiver screws to a torque of 7 Nm (62 in-lbs) in metallic trigger guards and max. 5Nm (44 in-lbs) in plastic trigger guards. Make sure to put metallic recoil block (B) in place into stock and pull barreled receiver backwards before tightening the receiver screws in order to remove the slack from the recoil lug.
manual is available at following link https://www.tikka.fi/support/instruction-manuals-1
I know as men we should not need manuals, but i have learned the more precise the equipment the more likely you need to read the manual.
I saw one in a XLR on the Tikka T3 page in the bolt action rifles.
http://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/tikka-t3-thread.6252615/page-80#lg=post-7495468&slide=0
@Travis224 said he needed to mill out a little bit for a bolt in front of the trigger guard. https://www.snipershide.com/shootin...with-a-little-tinkering.6912286/#post-7350619
I would be willing to bet that is the same thing that has needed to be done for most of the stocks. @skinnj1 has images of what needed to be done in post 455 in this thread.
I shot my first match with the T1X this last weekend. I've been running Lapua Biathalon ammo and the rifle has left nothing on the table. I'm getting legit 1 hole groups at 50yds for 5 shots, only marginally larger with 10 shots. I will say this though, when running the bolt there is definitely a sweet spot for proper ejection of the fired case. I had a number of times where the case simply dropped on the mag and would have bound everything up if I hadn't been paying attention. It seems like if you go real slow it drops, and if you go real fast it does as well. There was somewhere in the middle where it seemed to eject normally every time. More testing will show. I'm thinking a heavier piano wire ejector spring may help.
I know several are looking for Magazine's in stock. I have found some at whittaker guns see below links.
22lr https://shop.whittakerguns.com/product/47796
17hmr https://shop.whittakerguns.com/product/47797
22lr https://shop.whittakerguns.com/product/47796
17hmr https://shop.whittakerguns.com/product/47797
Yes
It chambers a round but doesn’t cock. First thing I tried when it first happened was hit the but on the ground hard several times and it was ok.
I’ll increase trigger weight and see if that helps. Haven’t done that.
Adjust a trigger, experience failure and re evaluate the adjustment. Sounds like a plan.
Well these snap caps don't work with this magazine. So will revert to "cocking" practice. Mostly want to run the bolt the de-stiffen. Need about 10,000 cycles or so
Next time you go shooting pick up your brass.
You guys that bought three mags from them. Was your shipping still 10 dollars They have one left I just don't want to pay 10 dollars for shipping one.
That is what my shipping was. I have seen them listed for $35 but out of stock.
So everyone is posting stories and pics. Here is mine. I bought mine locally for $459 which was high. I know but I wanted it. I then ordered the D.I.P 25 MOA rail for it. The scope is a Burris XTR 5x25x50 SCR reticle (found used on the hide for $625). I then placed a Huntertown arms Suppressor on it. I received the gun about a month ago, and work too much to get out and shoot it. Plus it was still deer season in Ohio. So I finally get a day off tomorrow. Too bad there will be 20-30MPH winds and -0-degree weather. Things left to do to it. 1. Timney Tikka 2 stage trigger. 2. KRG T1X
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I also dropped my T1x into a Manners stock cut for CTR bottom metal. I used the factory bottom plastic and cut off the nub on it. There is a slight gap around the plastic, but it works well and if I sand the plastic to contour it to the stock lines and maybe use a filler, it would definitely pass the looks test.
Outside of that, it is a great and easy way to get a rifle setup for some legit shooting.
Outside of that, it is a great and easy way to get a rifle setup for some legit shooting.
Attachments
Went into Sportsmans Warehouse an saw a T1x .22. Bought it. 10 day wait in California. I will put an Athlon Midas Tac 6-24x50 on it. Later it will rest in a KRG Bravo stock.
I put my T1X together a couple of days ago.
T1X
Weaver Tactical 3-15x50 from Low
DIP 25moa rail
Burris Signature Zee rings with 0moa inserts
Harris 6-9"
I removed the barreled action to adjust the trigger and all went without incident. I did get the trigger too light. I'm guessing about one and a half pounds. Most of my triggers are between two and a half and three pounds so I did myself no favor. It all went without incident. When it was cleaned and back together I drop tested it, again without incident.
The day before yesterday I put fifty rounds through it and here are my observations. I sighted in at twenty five yards. The first five or six rounds were within about an inch of the center of a one inch bull. This means two things. First is that I'm good at getting ring gaps consistent. More importantly the base, the rings, the receiver and it's mount holes are true and consistent. Then went back to fifty-one yds. I messed with different ways of getting into the gun and the last two five shot grps. were in the low sixes. I loaded the mag. with ten rounds and then cycled the action five times. All five rds. had a very light bright spot on the driving bands. Cycling the action does not damage the bullet. There were no FTFs, no FTEs and no mechanical faults of any kind.
I went through another fifty rounds yesterday morning. I became aware that between the size of the mag. well and the shape of the mag. it was easy to seat the magazine. Nice. Groups are tightening up but it is still about a half inch rifle. The ammo used has been Lapua Center-X. So what does all this mean? The rifle is well finished. It has been 100% reliable but a hundred rounds is no test. It is only moderately accurate so far. I've seen Savages that shoot as well and shot 455s that shoot better. Some five years ago, I posted a number of targets in the 6X5 thread that were shot with a 52C repro. The first was in the .5s and the last averaged .313". I have hopes for the T1x but it will take some time. We'll see.
T1X
Weaver Tactical 3-15x50 from Low
DIP 25moa rail
Burris Signature Zee rings with 0moa inserts
Harris 6-9"
I removed the barreled action to adjust the trigger and all went without incident. I did get the trigger too light. I'm guessing about one and a half pounds. Most of my triggers are between two and a half and three pounds so I did myself no favor. It all went without incident. When it was cleaned and back together I drop tested it, again without incident.
The day before yesterday I put fifty rounds through it and here are my observations. I sighted in at twenty five yards. The first five or six rounds were within about an inch of the center of a one inch bull. This means two things. First is that I'm good at getting ring gaps consistent.
More importantly the base, the rings, the receiver and it's mount holes are true and consistent. Then went back to fifty-one yds. I messed with different ways of getting into the gun and the last two five shot grps. were in the low sixes. I loaded the mag. with ten rounds and then cycled the action five times. All five rds. had a very light bright spot on the driving bands. Cycling the action does not damage the bullet. There were no FTFs, no FTEs and no mechanical faults of any kind. I went through another fifty rounds yesterday morning. I became aware that between the size of the mag. well and the shape of the mag. it was easy to seat the magazine. Nice. Groups are tightening up but it is still about a half inch rifle. The ammo used has been Lapua Center-X. So what does all this mean? The rifle is well finished. It has been 100% reliable but a hundred rounds is no test. It is only moderately accurate so far. I've seen Savages that shoot as well and shot 455s that shoot better. Some five years ago, I posted a number of targets in the 6X5 thread that were shot with a 52C repro. The first was in the .5s and the last averaged .313". I have hopes for the T1x but it will take some time. We'll see.
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Here's my T1x, grs sporter stock, dip 25moa rail, pst gen2 5-25, trigger spring, flush cups and rail. I've been using Lapua polar biathlon and it's a true one hiker at 50yds. It's holding about an inch at 100 so far. Rifle has about 300rds so far.
I have a question? At what ranges are you all shooting to use a canted rail? I have only shot to 225 yards this year. But years ago we shot out to 300 plus yards and I "needed" ALL of the bottom of the Tasco 6-24x40`s reticle.
300+, in order to accurately adjust for that range I've needed 16mil up up travel. this allows me to use the center of the reticle for the best optical clarity and wind adjustment. And, even with 25moa on the rail, my gen2 pst is sitting on the end of the first rotation for a 50yd zero. For this type of shooting, I'd like to stay away from holding over with the very bottom of my reticle, so the rail allows for adjustment out that far.
got it from eurooptic this last summer, they had them half off! this one is the GRS sporter 103510-GRS . I knew I would want the T1x as my trainer NRL22 rifle, so I bought the stock for it 6mo before the rifle even released. I run a GRS Berserk on my 260 match rifle, so this is a direct copy for training.
And now eurooptic has the mags in stock, just got the stock email from them...
https://www.eurooptic.com/Tikka-22LR-Magazine-for-T1X-Rifle-S545203781.aspx
https://www.eurooptic.com/Tikka-22LR-Magazine-for-T1X-Rifle-S545203781.aspx
That's funny, I was just looking on eurooptic but you'd already answered before I hit refresh. Thank you sir!
Just got an email notice for Euro Optics -1:50pm MST.....they have the T1X magazines in. Except for the two I ordered. ;^)
