I believe so. I have heard the t1x can use just about everything available for the t3x except for pic rails over the reciever. I have a beavertail forend and a replacement vertical grip on mine. I have seen several in chassis designed for t3/t3x.
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Tikka T1X
- Thread starter jbell
- Start date
I haven't shot it yet due to the lockdown, but I like the CTR's "pistol grip" angle better. The rubber butt pad adds some lop (also have spacers from the CTR available) and the cheek rest puts it right in line with my scope height. The T1X bottom metal is not as wide as the CTR bottom metal so there will be a small gap at the bottom. I don't foresee this as being an issue other than aesthetics.
I have a quick question for you guys running 25 MOA DIP rails. I had one on my Tikka T1x. I had 30 mils of total elevation on the scope but only had 16 mils of elevation available. I switched to a Anarchy Outdoors 30 moa rail and all the sudden I have almost 24 mils of elevation available. Same thing with a 10/22. I have a 25 moa rail and only 10 mils of 21 available. I’m about to switch to a different brand rail on that rifle as well. I checked with a few friends and it appears they have the same issue. just curious to see if your 25 moa rails are actually 25 moa. Mine all appear to not be.
I will check it with a caliper when I take it off. I’m buying a 40 moa rail from EGW for the 10/22. The dip 25 moa rail I gave away.
I just finished the cerakote on a friends T1x. I coated the barreled action graphite black. The kryptek pattern is burnt bronze, blue titanium and titanium. Not exactly traditional colors but the color combination turned out really nice.
EODDave27,
I got worried about my set up because I too have only 4.5 mil of offset with a 25 MOA scope base. This led me to start doing some trigonometry. I calculated that 1.1 mil of adjustment upwards would be required to zero at 50 yards assuming no bullet drop and a scope offset of 2 inches. This would account for 4 of your missing minutes. The other missing minutes are likely due to bullet drop at your zero distance.
I believe that you assumed that your zero point with no elevation from the mount would occur in the middle of the scope’s adjustment range because that is how everyone describes the situation when attempting to educate about the need for an angled mount. They are slightly wrong, especially with a 22 with a 50 yard zero. A 100 yard zero like for center fire rifles would reduce the angle for height over bore by half. If the centerfire rifle has more than about twice the muzzle velocity of your 22 cartridge, then it will drop less in the 100 yards than your 22 at 50 yards. This is another reason why it can be ignored more for centerfire rifles than 22LR.
The difference between that “30 MOA” base and the “25 MOA” base is concerning though as you gained way more elevation than you should have.
You are definitely right that we should be buying more heavily slanted bases than for a centerfire rifle. For my setup, I should probably have a 40 MOA base as I currently have a 25 MOA base and I’m leaving 4.4 Mils of adjustment unusable on my Athlon Argos BTR. This would let me shoot to 400 yards with 24X magnification instead of 16X.
Best Regards,
Ian
I got worried about my set up because I too have only 4.5 mil of offset with a 25 MOA scope base. This led me to start doing some trigonometry. I calculated that 1.1 mil of adjustment upwards would be required to zero at 50 yards assuming no bullet drop and a scope offset of 2 inches. This would account for 4 of your missing minutes. The other missing minutes are likely due to bullet drop at your zero distance.
I believe that you assumed that your zero point with no elevation from the mount would occur in the middle of the scope’s adjustment range because that is how everyone describes the situation when attempting to educate about the need for an angled mount. They are slightly wrong, especially with a 22 with a 50 yard zero. A 100 yard zero like for center fire rifles would reduce the angle for height over bore by half. If the centerfire rifle has more than about twice the muzzle velocity of your 22 cartridge, then it will drop less in the 100 yards than your 22 at 50 yards. This is another reason why it can be ignored more for centerfire rifles than 22LR.
The difference between that “30 MOA” base and the “25 MOA” base is concerning though as you gained way more elevation than you should have.
You are definitely right that we should be buying more heavily slanted bases than for a centerfire rifle. For my setup, I should probably have a 40 MOA base as I currently have a 25 MOA base and I’m leaving 4.4 Mils of adjustment unusable on my Athlon Argos BTR. This would let me shoot to 400 yards with 24X magnification instead of 16X.
Best Regards,
Ian
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That is where I was having an issue. I replaced a 25 moa scope base with a 30 moa scope base and gained 8 mils of elevation. Something defiantly isn’t right there. I have a 40 moa base on my Vudoo and have about 3.5 mils below zero. My CZ 457 has an AO 30 moa base and I have about 16 of 20 mils of elevation. The only ones that don’t add up are my rails from DIP. I. Replacing the one on my 10/22 now. My prediction is I will go from having 10 mils of useable elevation to close to 18 but I guess we will see.
This is not a reply to your last post.
Ignoring drag which would actually increase the amount of drop, my rough calculations show that an object traveling at 1080 FPS horizontally would drop 3.8 inches over 50 yards. The angle for this is 2.1 milliradians, so between the basic drop and scope offset, I am using 3.2 mils just to zero the rifle at 50 yards. This is 11.5 TMOA of my 25 MOA base, and the problem is even worse with slower bullets.
I will check my math tomorrow in Excel to be sure.
Ignoring drag which would actually increase the amount of drop, my rough calculations show that an object traveling at 1080 FPS horizontally would drop 3.8 inches over 50 yards. The angle for this is 2.1 milliradians, so between the basic drop and scope offset, I am using 3.2 mils just to zero the rifle at 50 yards. This is 11.5 TMOA of my 25 MOA base, and the problem is even worse with slower bullets.
I will check my math tomorrow in Excel to be sure.
No matter what the math says I should not gain 8 mils of useable elevation by adding a rail with an additional 5 moa of cant. Now the only question for me is will the same thing happen on my 10/22 when I switch rails.
My math looks to be showing that I am actually getting more than 25 MOA from my rail as my offset is 4.5 mils and my rifle should take 3.2 mils to get back to zero. The 25 MOA rail should be 6.9 mils, but it looks like I’m getting 7.7. Maybe they just aren’t made that well or maybe my scope isn’t actually centered or maybe my math is wrong.
This is confusing, but on the plus side, I was able to shoot my T1X out to 400 yards today.
This is confusing, but on the plus side, I was able to shoot my T1X out to 400 yards today.
On my T3X 0moa rail, I have 14mils left. (100 yd zero 308)
On my T1X 25moa DIP rail, I have 17.5mils left. (25 yd zero)
I asked about this on another thread and couldn't figure out why I didn't have more dial left.
On my T1X 25moa DIP rail, I have 17.5mils left. (25 yd zero)
I asked about this on another thread and couldn't figure out why I didn't have more dial left.
The distance between and the position of rings on the base makes a huge difference. Windage not at mechanical zero reduces the amount of elevation adjustment also.
I have a 20 moa rail for a 10/22 that I’m going to switch out just to see what happens. I have a 40 moa rail on the way which will ultimately be replacing the DIP rail but the 20 MOA rail I found should be the closest comparison. I’ll report back later today and see what happens.
Sixgunjeff is correct. Look at column that has 4.75" ring spacing at the top highlighted in blue. Each row in that column is the same as the total offset on the far left. What that means is if you use any offset and you set your rings at 4.75" apart your offset in MOA will be correct. Let's use the 25 MOA Total Offset row, again spacing the rings at 4.75" you will gain the exact amount of offset as shown by the 25.00 in the red box. Using that same 25 MOA offset row, if you increase your ring spacing to 6" you will only have 19.77 MOA, losing 5.23 MOA of elevation.
The inserts doesn't matter. The only reason Burris shows this is because if someone is expecting a 25 MOA increase and they put their rings 6" apart they will not get the full 25 MOA.
No KOD I was wrong. Using regular rings on a inclined base the angle remains the same regardless of spacing. Using Burris Signature rings you are changing the angle by changing the distance between rings.
Okay, I took off my 25 MOA DIP rail and put on an older 20 moa rail I found. With the 25 moa DIP rail I had 10 mils of elevation available of 20 total on my scope. When I switched to the 20 moa rail I had almost 15 mils of elevation available. Maybe it’s just me but that math doesn’t add up. All that is with a 50 yard zero.
I’m not worried about it. I just threw it in my spare parts drawer and marked it a 0 moa and will not buy another rail from DIP. If it was one rail I could say mistakes happen. Two different rails for two different guns purchased months apart, what are the chances. I should probably go play the lottery if I just happened to get the two bad ones.
First time posting, but I have been creeping around for a while. I"m not a great shot, but very impressed with the Tikka T1x. Here's mine and what I have done to it:
- Tikka vertical grip
- High Velocity metal trigger guard
- High Velocity metal bolt shroud
- Bolt polish
- DIP muzzle break
- Amazon bipod
- Nikon Buckmasters 4-12x Scope
I pasted in my "best" from the most recent trip shot at 100 yards. I think that is 1 moa or about that... but again new at this. I haven't shot it yet with the new trigger guard/shroud. But the new shroud definately has a different feel cycling.
Just saw a sketchy video on Instagram posted by “westdesertshooter” of a customized T1x being shot, and blowing out the magazine.. must’ve been pretty scary, but shooter looked to be ok..
Was an aftermarket barrel, so I tend to think the headspace was set wrong or the barrel had loosened up and slid forward?
Anyone else see that video?
Was an aftermarket barrel, so I tend to think the headspace was set wrong or the barrel had loosened up and slid forward?
Anyone else see that video?
I’d be curious to hear the back story too..
if he was actually loading the ammo himself, that could certainly explain it.
He put up a video on YouTube too (not specifically about this) and threw that clip in at the very end without comment..
Would be good if he explained what happened, as it stands I worry people are thinking this is a Tikka problem although I tend to doubt the rifle malfunctioned.. if anything I think the rifle did a pretty good job protecting the shooter in a bad situation.
if he was actually loading the ammo himself, that could certainly explain it.
He put up a video on YouTube too (not specifically about this) and threw that clip in at the very end without comment..
Would be good if he explained what happened, as it stands I worry people are thinking this is a Tikka problem although I tend to doubt the rifle malfunctioned.. if anything I think the rifle did a pretty good job protecting the shooter in a bad situation.
I saw one of the replies to the video was something like "tikka has some explaining to do". It appears to be an aftermarket barrel in a chassis and who knows what mods were done. I'd say he's getting the knee jerk reactions he was seeking and we'll probably never know what really what happened or what led up to it.
I have a very hard time believing what happened there was any fault of Tikka. As has been said that rifle has who knows what kind of modifications. On top of that if the guy is pulling Rimfire bullets and reloading them I don’t know what to say. I load all my own ammo with the exception of rimfire. Personally I think that is insane. Not only is there no load data that I know of but the mechanics of holding the round by the rim and pulling the bullet just sound like a recipe for trouble. I don’t know, maybe there are all kinds of guys out there reloading their rimfire ammo but I will not be one of them.
When I first installed my IBI barrel I had a bit too much headspace. Did exactly the same thing as in the video when I fired a HV (1435fps) round in it.
Whoever installed the barrel is the culprit as well as the velocity of the round - nothing to do with Tikka.
In my case just forward of the rim the round blew a pinhole sized hole in the brass and most of the energy went downwards taking the bottom of the mag with it.
Whoever installed the barrel is the culprit as well as the velocity of the round - nothing to do with Tikka.
In my case just forward of the rim the round blew a pinhole sized hole in the brass and most of the energy went downwards taking the bottom of the mag with it.
You can load your own 22 ammo but I am in agreement with you. I reload all of my center fire cartridges (including 223) but wont use my money to get into reloading 22. Its so cheap to get really high quality, consistent ammo that why take the risk. Link below is to the reloading kit if you are interested
22 LR Rimfire Reloading Tool Kit - 22LR Reloader
Finally, a reloader kit for rimfire 22 LR ammunition! View design details and kit accessories here. Start loading your own ammo today and save!
22lrreloader.com
I just watched the video on reloading 22lr using that kit. Why would anyone chose to do that? that is a hell of a lot of work for what seems to be about the same quality as bulk ammo.
Personally when I saw the post, I took his comment on wrong powder as a joke, as I’d never heard of anyone reloading 22lr.. also in YouTube video he has a couple boxes of what look like Lapua ammo lying next to gun.. can’t see in instagram clip..
I guess he could have been reloading them, in which case this is a pretty good example of why to not do that.
I guess he could have been reloading them, in which case this is a pretty good example of why to not do that.
Yeh my first take on that video was he has an aftermarket barrel and didn't headspace it correctly.
You can load your own 22 ammo but I am in agreement with you. I reload all of my center fire cartridges (including 223) but wont use my money to get into reloading 22. Its so cheap to get really high quality, consistent ammo that why take the risk. Link below is to the reloading kit if you are interested
22 LR Rimfire Reloading Tool Kit - 22LR Reloader
Finally, a reloader kit for rimfire 22 LR ammunition! View design details and kit accessories here. Start loading your own ammo today and save!22lrreloader.com
I looked at the link and have to ask. How is this a good idea? It pretty much says its a alternative to bulk ammo. Also where would but the priming compound if you wanted to try this? There are so many things that could go wrong.
I too load for everything I own except 22lr and my 30-06. To me its another hobby, just like shooting. I just can't imagine sitting down and loading a brick of little rascals knowing they were going to be the same quality as the wally world specials.
One of my coworkers knows someone who reloads 22lr and uses a centrifuge for priming... if I cant be sure I can get the components and that it will just be like bulk ammo, i agree it's just not worth it
I saw it too. In the description he mentioned reloading, so could have been
right you are, sir. Here’s a follow-up from him:
