Tikka T3 Thread

Literally right now waiting for a good shot during a cull hunt on Blackbuck antelope does this morning.


Ended up shooting 5 does over the weekend. All of them from the exact same spot at about 2 hour intervals. It is a clump of trees that offers about a 270 degree field of fire out to to about 400 yards.
We ended up naming that location “Killbox Alpha”
 
  • Like
Reactions: Wags
I am looking to build a proof Tikka as well. I just am worried about the OAL in a 300 win mag build. I am worried on the magazine lenght, because I would like to shoot the 220-212 grain bullets
I recently tried some 300WM Berger ammo loaded with the 215 Bergers and it not fit in my buddy’s Tikka mag.


Take a look at Redsnake Tactical BM. They allow you to use 300 WM AI Mags that'll give you more length.
 
Anyone by chance have a source for a Trigger Tension Tab? I took mine off years ago for a chassis build and am now rebarreling to a Caebon McMillan and aftermarket OEM pattern bottom metal and will need it for the dinky factory mags.

Happy to pay someone that's taking theirs off for a chassis. (Would also cut some a deal on my KRG X-Ray that's for sale!)

Pic to be clear on what I need, the part #2.
Screenshot_20190926-170422.png
 
Anyone by chance have a source for a Trigger Tension Tab? I took mine off years ago for a chassis build and am now rebarreling to a Caebon McMillan and aftermarket OEM pattern bottom metal and will need it for the dinky factory mags.

Happy to pay someone that's taking theirs off for a chassis. (Would also cut some a deal on my KRG X-Ray that's for sale!)

Pic to be clear on what I need, the part #2.

I did the same thing. I think I know where mine is. I know trigger parts for tikka can be had from brownels. try that
 
Anyone by chance have a source for a Trigger Tension Tab? I took mine off years ago for a chassis build and am now rebarreling to a Caebon McMillan and aftermarket OEM pattern bottom metal and will need it for the dinky factory mags.

Happy to pay someone that's taking theirs off for a chassis. (Would also cut some a deal on my KRG X-Ray that's for sale!)

Pic to be clear on what I need, the part #2.

Buddy of mine made one from a 27-mm pipe clamp. He converted his CTR to run with the Lite mags in a B&C stock. Works just fine. All that "tab" does is apply forward pressure on the plastic mag so it will catch and not fall out.

IMG_2194.jpg
IMG_2196.jpg
IMG_2201.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: viking78
Anyone by chance have a source for a Trigger Tension Tab? I took mine off years ago for a chassis build and am now rebarreling to a Caebon McMillan and aftermarket OEM pattern bottom metal and will need it for the dinky factory mags.

Happy to pay someone that's taking theirs off for a chassis. (Would also cut some a deal on my KRG X-Ray that's for sale!)

Pic to be clear on what I need, the part #2. View attachment 7154227
Hey man I have one that I’m not going to use
 
Need help. I have a TacA1. My scope is a Razor Gen2. I have the highest Vortex rings on it. I would like to get a 20moa rail but if I do, I am afraid my bell will not clear the Tikka forend. Options?
Maybe you can Just use a 20moa one piece mount and leave the tikka rail as is. The Taca1 scope base is higher than most. If you use an aftermarket canted scope base it will probably be much lower than what you have on there now and could run into height issues and will probably look like crap anyhow. I am talking offhand. I sold my Tac-a1 a year ago or more.

I’m guessing you have a .308 if you need a 20moa cant
 
@viking78
I’m not sure if you actually shoot your rifles. ?

No seriously. ?

Sometimes :ROFLMAO:.
I would do it more often, but like now, i am struggling with my low back pain, it might be sciatica, or the worst scenario is spinal disc herniation, this nervous pain is f..g making me crazy.

Here is my tube channel, some of my shooting i have done on to the video, notging cool, just basic videos.

 
  • Like
Reactions: Krob95 and wade2big
Maybe you can Just use a 20moa one piece mount and leave the tikka rail as is. The Taca1 scope base is higher than most. If you use an aftermarket canted scope base it will probably be much lower than what you have on there now and could run into height issues and will probably look like crap anyhow.

I’m guessing you have a .308 if you need a 20moa cant
Actually a 6.5 Creed that I like to shoot a mile. I would like to dial up instead of using the reticle.
 
Actually a 6.5 Creed that I like to shoot a mile. I would like to dial up instead of using the reticle.
Makes sense. That’s long way especially for that cartridge. At sea level where I live I don’t think it would make it reliably. How much do you hold in your reticle? Is 20moa enough.
 
Spuhr 0 MOA mount and Minox 5-25x56 scope has plenty on clearance between the scope bell and forend, this is with factory picatinny rail.
I would use MDT ESS 20 MOA rail, that should be ok, for the height and size on the TAC A1.


If he were to change to scope base, he would probably lose too much clearance as a result. That one piece is the way to go.
 
I don't understand the desire of folks to get their scope as low as possible. It seems like they're always buying and rebuying scope mounts whenever they change something. I use high mounts and prefer unimounts. 1.5" or 1.25". Just ensure you have HOB entered correctly in your ballistic calculator. Not only do high rings fit more configurations but they seem to accommodate varying positional shooting better than having a cramped workspace between your shoulder, neck, head, and firing hand.
One reason is that on hunting rifles keeping everything low and compact makes sense as comfort when looking through the scope for twenty seconds before breaking the shot makes little differences and it keeps guys from having to purchase high dollar and heavy stocks with cheek risers or having to build up the stock itself.

For target rifles, comfort and usuablilty comes into play as the shooter is behind the scope for longer periods of time and I wil agree that higher mounts give more room but I don’t like them excessively high. Even target shooting, comfort doesn’t matter unless you are a puss. ?
 
Last edited:
I don't understand the desire of folks to get their scope as low as possible. It seems like they're always buying and rebuying scope mounts whenever they change something. I use high mounts and prefer unimounts. 1.5" or 1.25". Just ensure you have HOB entered correctly in your ballistic calculator. Not only do high rings fit more configurations but they seem to accommodate varying positional shooting better than having a cramped workspace between your shoulder, neck, head, and firing hand.
I’ve been saying this too. Especially in the “shooting with glasses” threads. A more straightforward view into the scope makes it easier in a number of ways.

I also have to concur that in a hunting rifle lower is more standard, right or not.
 
Do you shoot competition?
No. I shoot for real. I hunt and kill plenty. I do target shoot every weekend for fun though as I have my own 900 yard range beside the house.

What does that have to do with what I said. I basically agreed with both thoughts on scope mounting whether high or low. There are valid reasons for both.
 
  • Haha
Reactions: clcustom1911
Ya, I wasn't really talking about hunting rifles since Spuhr mounts and Minoxs were being discussed.

And it's not really about comfort as much as speed and ergonomics. If you find yourself struggling when shooting weak side often times it's because you have a constrained workspace as much as it is familiarity. Lowering the cheekpiece just a bit more than you actually need also helps.

That's why I was asking about competition. For guys who shoot unstructured or "target" shooting often there is now external force imposing problems on them and they aren't forced to address weaknesses. Some folks set the exam to facilitate the practice.
Yeah i basically said the same thing just in less words. I agreed with you the first time.
 
Anyone by chance have a source for a Trigger Tension Tab? I took mine off years ago for a chassis build and am now rebarreling to a Caebon McMillan and aftermarket OEM pattern bottom metal and will need it for the dinky factory mags.

Happy to pay someone that's taking theirs off for a chassis. (Would also cut some a deal on my KRG X-Ray that's for sale!)

Pic to be clear on what I need, the part #2. View attachment 7154227
I have one somewhere if you're still looking for one. PM me if you haven't found one yet.
 
For the other readers out there.

Think about the orientation of your neck in the prone, kneeling, standing positions. Slightly different in each position, right. Usually a person establishes their comb height, LOP, cheek to stock weld, and eye relief in the prone position with LR Precision rifles. In the prone your body is generally horizontal and your neck mostly is as well. The length of your neck dictates your CtS weld and eye relief from your shoulder pocket. But when you stand up, your neck is vertical and this length becomes shortened.

I see a lot of folks that arbitrarily mount their scope rings and LOP. And then they slide their scope all the way back against the rings/ turret housing instead of supporting the scope in the middle of the tube. When they get into wierd positions they are stretching or compressing their neck. One of the reasons natural point of aim is so important in the fundamentals is that shooters tend to relax everything as they are taking the tail end of the slack out of the trigger, right before the break. If they're muscling the position, every thing tends to revert to the natural skeletal point of aim. You can see it in their necks.

The more vertical you make the relationship between your shoulder pocket and eye box, the more you reduce the horizontal-vertical variation in position. You do this by using high rings.

Apologies if this explanation is extruciatingly overstated. It's to better make my point, not to argue. I just think a lot of novice shooters get the idea that as low as possible is the right answer.

When I switched to positioning my rifle prone more center to my body on my collar bone, so less neck crooning, everything felt much better. It also made my weak side super easy to do as well. This also supported me doing offhand shooting as the placement moving from collar bone to shoulder pocket, still maintained the same neck/head spacing so I am able to get on sight in prone, weakside, and offhand w/o having to fiddle around to find my eyebox. I run low rings, but now I also need very little comb height. I was able to reduce my comb height by 1/2".
 
No it does not.
You can open the bolt with the safety on to unload and that's one of the best selling features for me.
Always hated that stupid bolt lock......
Funny- I always thought the bolt lock was a good feature. Guess that's why they make both :) So does it have a sear block when it's on safe like the OEM and the Mitas?