Tikka T3 Thread

We fit Atlasworx mag systems almost daily however 300wm T3 AI type less than 10%. The T3 is a bit tight for the AI 300WM mag, some say mill 2mm off the trigger housing but we found that is not needed. Recently a picture was posted on this thread where the front bottom of the action had a V cut-out which could make good sense for longer loaded cartridges. I have not tried that yet.
I think it is important to first bed the action which means the position is fixed, then free float bed the floor plate in it's natural position with inserted magazine which sits in the best position and angle in the action. We start by having the mag inlet larger than needed.
One can simulate the best position by clicking the magazine in the atlasworx then sitting the mag in the action, (without the stock) fit the action screws very lightly tightened. Pillar height can be measured that way also.
Once fitted and bedded right the rifle feeds ultra reliably. pictured a 7RM with Hardy barrel, Atlasworx AI 300wm mag.
edi

View attachment 7142702
Here is the one I believe you were referring to by @clcustom1911

So, I don't know about you guys, but being limited to a 3.41" OAL for my 7mm RemMag was a real bummer. For me to have .020" jump for 175gr ELD-X's, which my Tikka shoots marvelously, I would need to single load them through the ejection port...



NOT ANYMORE!!!

Before....

View attachment 7117183

After:

View attachment 7117185
View attachment 7117186

Now I can mag feed 183 Matchkings seated to .040" jump. 3.56" OAL. ??? as opposed to previous 3.40" and jumping them .20"!!!
View attachment 7117187
 
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Here is the one I believe you were referring to by @clcustom1911

My Bottom Metal on my Tikka is CDI. Fits and feeds AI 300WM mags fabulously. I actually hand-cut a V groove in the bottom inlet of my receiver to accommodate rounds with OAL longer than 3.41", which was the max dimension. The bottom metal and magazine wasn't the issue, it was the actual length of the magazine inlet of the receiver.

Oh, by the way, Berger 168 VLD Target bullets shoot very well when seated at the lands (overall length 3.450", 87.63mm)in the 7mm RemMag T3x.

15677216559145741907400868647232.jpg
 
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So, with a Tikka T3, I can buy an aftermarket barrel, headspaced on the shoulder and do not have to send the action to the Smith. Can you give me a list of Gunsmiths who do this? Is it best to buy a blank and send to the Smith or buy the blank from him?

I have read that some factory barrels can be difficult to remove. what is the best way? I have barrel blocks, can you fit a wrench to the flat sides of the action and remove..... or is there a lot more to it?? I have experience removing Savage barrels.

Thanks,

Bill

This is my Tac-A1 with a barrel from Patriot Valley Arms. It's a 26-inch Rock Creek prefit in 6.5 Creedmoor in m24 contour. The only issue that I ran into was that m-lok accessory screws were actually contacting the barrel when fully torqued down because the barrel is so thick. As per the instruction from Area 419, I used a belt sander to grind down the screws about 30 or 40 thousandths and they now have plenty of clearance.

Regarding the accuracy department, I only have 140 rounds down the barrel - all reloads, and it's a 1/2 MOA barrel so far. I don't have any groups to share, but I ran my Tikka in a PRS match last weekend and it was a hammer out to 730 yards.
 

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Quick Question: is dry lube recommended on a Tikka bolt?I've used Remington dry lube on a Ruger; really slicked it. On a Sako, it gummed it up for a while.

Nik
 
I have a general question, pertaining to the accuracy guarantees of modern Tikka and Sako rifles. If the barrels are the same and there is general agreement that the actions are true in all of the right places, why then the supposed greater out-of-the-box accuracy of the Sako? This question is largely going to draw subjective replies, but it's just a thought. I was handling a TRG-22 owned by a friend of mine the other day and honestly thought that I was handling a CTR.
 
I have a general question, pertaining to the accuracy guarantees of modern Tikka and Sako rifles. If the barrels are the same and there is general agreement that the actions are true in all of the right places, why then the supposed greater out-of-the-box accuracy of the Sako? This question is largely going to draw subjective replies, but it's just a thought. I was handling a TRG-22 owned by a friend of mine the other day and honestly thought that I was handling a CTR.


I would think bedding and stock / recoil lug, if the triggers and barrels are identical.
 
I would think bedding and stock / recoil lug, if the triggers and barrels are identical.
I should have been more specific regarding stocks; I'm talking stocks that are approximately equivalent. I wonder how the TacA1 or the TSR-1 compares to a TRG-22 with the same cartridge and barrel, same shooter and ammo. It's merely an academic musing.
 
I should have been more specific regarding stocks; I'm talking stocks that are approximately equivalent. I wonder how the TacA1 or the TSR-1 compares to a TRG-22 with the same cartridge and barrel, same shooter and ammo. It's merely an academic musing.


Ahhh. Good question.... the only thing I could think of is still bedding, tolerances and barrel.
 
I don't know why you would use that. Just use an appropriate amount of bolt grease on all of the critical points in an action. Just like any other action.

On the lugs. right in front of the bolt handle on the body. On the bottom side of the lugs where they ride on the raceways. On the cocking ramp.

Exactly. Tetra grease is what I use on my lugs, raceways and cocking ramps. Just a little goes a long way.
 
I have a general question, pertaining to the accuracy guarantees of modern Tikka and Sako rifles. If the barrels are the same and there is general agreement that the actions are true in all of the right places, why then the supposed greater out-of-the-box accuracy of the Sako? This question is largely going to draw subjective replies, but it's just a thought. I was handling a TRG-22 owned by a friend of mine the other day and honestly thought that I was handling a CTR.

In comparing my T3x Tac To my TRG22, I believe that if everything was equal in potential accuracy, The TRG trigger would be the game changer between the two. It's far superior to the TacA1.
 
If only the Tac-A1 could accept the Midas trigger from KRG :/ I wanted to try it but KRG said the Midas shoe is too large to fit the Tac A1 cut out. Timney makes a nice 2-stage trigger for the T3.

My stock Tac A1 trigger has been good to me so I'm leaving it alone for now.
 
I have a general question, pertaining to the accuracy guarantees of modern Tikka and Sako rifles. If the barrels are the same and there is general agreement that the actions are true in all of the right places, why then the supposed greater out-of-the-box accuracy of the Sako? This question is largely going to draw subjective replies, but it's just a thought. I was handling a TRG-22 owned by a friend of mine the other day and honestly thought that I was handling a CTR.

Better stock/chassis. Way better trigger. But as far as barrel quality, same between the two.
 
I noticed that Stocky's now sells Proof Research pre-fit barrels for Tikka T3X. Didn't even know this was in the works:

 
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If the TRG22 A1 cost $4000 more than a T3x A1 one would hope the trigger, among other features would be of superior quality. You pay a premium for what you get, yes?

I own both (not the A1). CTR and TRG are not in the same category.

Barrel: TRG is a heavy contour. CTR is something like a light Palma. Quality may be the same.

Action: TRG is beefier. Bolt is heavier. 60 degree throw vs. 72 degree throw.

Trigger: TRG is premium, almost over-engineered in its adjustability. CTR trigger is great, serviceable and simpler.

Stock: TRG is aluminum bedded, heavy, rugged, near indestructible and adjustable. Very ergonomic. CTR factory stock is plasticky, hollow, no cheek adjust. I'm not confident the center seam will not split in a hard fall. Many people swap out the CTR stock.

On every level, one can see more cost of quality components going into the TRG. It may sound like I'm bagging on the CTR so far, but I'm not. CTR has a lot more aftermarket options. It's lighter, more handy. The TRG I take to the range and back. The CTR is something I can carry comfortably in the field.

Nik
 
A poor man TRG is.

We take on Tikka T3 CTR, Varmint would be even closer to barrel profile.
One KRG Bravo chassis.
And if you want to mimic the trigger, there are two options you can buy.
A Timney or KRG Midas, i have them both.
Closer to TRG goes KRG, since you can adjust the trigger travel, not that the Timney would be bad.

 
If you are shooting Hornady Match ammo (223) what kind of accuracy are you getting with your factory barrel vs. custom match barrel? I'm getting 0.7" edge to edge, will it improve if I throw on a criterion barrel? I know the ammo might be the limiting factor (assuming I can shoot...
 
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For those of you with long action Tikka's.....

I am in the process of switching a 30.06 over to a 280 AI. I am going to be switching the stock ( this is a hunting rifle so no chassis ) and want to get away from the short Tikka Mags. Is there a direct bolt on bottom metal/mag system that doesn't require a gunsmith? I see that Mountain Tactical makes one but they say that it requires simthing (but it doesn't say what is required) and Redsnake Tactical requires you to file down the stock to make it fit. Is there an option that doesn't require that? Or is there a better option that I am just not seeing?

Thanks in advance.
Inquire with Manners. My T3x has a Manners MCS T4 and Manners did a CDI Bottom Metal.
 
For those of you with long action Tikka's.....

I am in the process of switching a 30.06 over to a 280 AI. I am going to be switching the stock ( this is a hunting rifle so no chassis ) and want to get away from the short Tikka Mags. Is there a direct bolt on bottom metal/mag system that doesn't require a gunsmith? I see that Mountain Tactical makes one but they say that it requires simthing (but it doesn't say what is required) and Redsnake Tactical requires you to file down the stock to make it fit. Is there an option that doesn't require that? Or is there a better option that I am just not seeing?

Thanks in advance.

What stock are you going for?
All factory Tikka stocks will require inletting for aftermarket bottom metal, but certain stock manufacturers will inlet them for what ever you want.
The AICS 300WM mags may give you extra length.

If your getting a custom barrel made you could just get it throated to suit the magazine length. I personally don't like AICS magazines (sharp pointy edges and clunky IMO) especially on a hunting rifle so would try stick too the factory magazine if possible.
 
What stock are you going for?
All factory Tikka stocks will require inletting for aftermarket bottom metal, but certain stock manufacturers will inlet them for what ever you want.
The AICS 300WM mags may give you extra length.

If your getting a custom barrel made you could just get it throated to suit the magazine length. I personally don't like AICS magazines (sharp pointy edges and clunky IMO) especially on a hunting rifle so would try stick too the factory magazine if possible.


Probably a McMillan. They inlet for Redsnake tactical BM that uses the 300WM mags.

My hesitation with stock length Mags is that they limit OAL when handloading. Which robs performance. I want to get the most out of this rifle.
 
Probably a McMillan. They inlet for Redsnake tactical BM that uses the 300WM mags.

My hesitation with stock length Mags is that they limit OAL when handloading. Which robs performance. I want to get the most out of this rifle.

If I'm not mistaken there is multiple lengths available for the 300wm magazines, so may pay to make sure you get the length you will need.

I would investigate the performance penalties as it may not be enough to worry about, but I don't have any experience with the cartridge.
 
If I'm not mistaken there is multiple lengths available for the 300wm magazines, so may pay to make sure you get the length you will need.

I would investigate the performance penalties as it may not be enough to worry about, but I don't have any experience with the cartridge.


Will do, thank you.

I'm actually going to be building a 280AI from a 30.06 that I currently have. Hopefully by switching BM and Mags I'll have enough length to work with.
 
@Wags

On a side note, the inlet in the bottom of the actual action will likely limit you to a 3.41" cartridge overall length. I hand cut a V groove in my action to allow a cartridge length of up to 3.58" or so with my looooong 183 grain Matchkings for 7RemMag
View attachment 7145408


I wonder if I sent it to LRI or someone comparable if they could do that for me. I'm not sure if I'll need that length with the 280AI but if I do I'll keep that in mind and have it done.
 
Will do, thank you.

I'm actually going to be building a 280AI from a 30.06 that I currently have. Hopefully by switching BM and Mags I'll have enough length to work with.

If you are not dead set on the 280AI you could consider the 284win, similar ballistics, fits a standard bolt face, feeds fine in the Tikka and length will not be an issue.

Good luck.
 
Those of you with a t3 tactical in a krg whiskey 3 gen 6 chassis, how do you get the forend to slide back or forwards? I loosened the 6 screws and even tried taking them out all the way but with no luck. Does the barreled action have to be out of the chassis to adjust it? Also using an accurate metal mag (.223) if that changes anything.
 
That forend has a little play on it, but it is not much, we are talking about few millimeters.
Trigger guard is the element you want to adjust, that how you can get the magazine to fit in to your chassis how like it it.
But to do that, you must take action out of the chassis.
I use Whiskey 3 gen 6 on my CTR 223rem, i use MDT magazines.
The rifle with the green chassis.


Here´s the how do for the mag fitting.
krgmag.JPG
 
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That forend has a little play on it, but it is not much, we are talking about few millimeters.
Trigger guard is the element you want to adjust, that how you can get the magazine to fit in to your chassis how like it it.
But to do that, you must take action out of the chassis.
I use Whiskey 3 gen 6 on my CTR 223rem, i use MDT magazines.
The rifle with the green chassis.


Here´s the how do for the mag fitting.


What can do you have on the 223?
It's rather short!
 
Well I got my Tikka T3 Tactical .233 into its new permanent home, a KRG Whiskey 3 Gen 6 chassis and boy howdy does it look and feel great! I just have a plain Jane Vortex Viper 6.5-20x with Vortex Pro rings and a UTG Pro bipod for now as this was what was on my old Remington 700. Will be upgrading to better glass and an atlas bipod eventually after I get a timney 2 stage trigger.

65A471B3-F22A-4317-BA25-E69F27B76BEF.jpeg
 
I too have one on a 260, they're work extremely well don't they.

Do you share suppressors between cals, or have dedicated ones?

For the size they are, they are amazing how so small can be so efective.

I have 3 of these SL5i suppressor.

I also have 2 JAKI suppressor, made in Finland too.

 
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So this is on a Tikka in 260 at a local retailer but is also on my Tikka t3 tactical, what the hell is that screw at the front of the receiver for? It’s the one that’s sticking up for really no reason. It was also on another Tikka as well.
 
View attachment 7147046

So this is on a Tikka in 260 at a local retailer but is also on my Tikka t3 tactical, what the hell is that screw at the front of the receiver for? It’s the one that’s sticking up for really no reason. It was also on another Tikka as well.
It's a screw to attach a mirage band.
The front screw comes on some factory and aftermarket muzzle brakes.
There is not a hole below it in the action so don't go screwing it in or you will lift the front of your rail up.
Some people use it to lift the rail up after heating and removing the screws when replacing the factory rail for another just to get a blade under the edge for some leverage cause Tikka epoxies the shit out of the factory rails...
 
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Mirage shield?

Just speculating.
It's a screw to attach a mirage band.
The front screw comes on some factory and aftermarket muzzle brakes.
There is not a hole below it in the action so don't go screwing it in or you will lift the front of your rail up.
Some people use it to lift the rail up after heating and removing the screws when replacing the factory rail for another just to get a blade under the edge for some leverage cause Tikka epoxies the shit out of the factory rails...

thank you guys! Never heard of that but it’s good to know you can use it to aid in getting the rail off.
 
View attachment 7147046

So this is on a Tikka in 260 at a local retailer but is also on my Tikka t3 tactical, what the hell is that screw at the front of the receiver for? It’s the one that’s sticking up for really no reason. It was also on another Tikka as well.
My TSR-1 had that. Learned this 2 weeks ago when I went ahead and screwed it in. Low and behold the rail came up. Ended up replacing the rail with a Spuhr 20 moa and yes they epoxy the shit out of it. Heat gun took care of it though.
 
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