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@winniethepooh anarchy make and sell their own version that came later; not available in Left Hand.
@Viking65 I think I got your email
Indeed you did!
My Bottom Metal on my Tikka is CDI. Fits and feeds AI 300WM mags fabulously. I actually hand-cut a V groove in the bottom inlet of my receiver to accommodate rounds with OAL longer than 3.41", which was the max dimension. The bottom metal and magazine wasn't the issue, it was the actual length of the magazine inlet of the receiver.
Oh, by the way, Berger 168 VLD Target bullets shoot very well when seated at the lands (overall length 3.450", 87.63mm)in the 7mm RemMag T3x.
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This is my Tac-A1 with a barrel from Patriot Valley Arms. It's a 26-inch Rock Creek prefit in 6.5 Creedmoor in m24 contour. The only issue that I ran into was that m-lok accessory screws were actually contacting the barrel when fully torqued down because the barrel is so thick. As per the instruction from Area 419, I used a belt sander to grind down the screws about 30 or 40 thousandths and they now have plenty of clearance.
Regarding the accuracy department, I only have 140 rounds down the barrel - all reloads, and it's a 1/2 MOA barrel so far. I don't have any groups to share, but I ran my Tikka in a PRS match last weekend and it was a hammer out to 730 yards.
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Thinking of it, I prefer dust in grease than dust on it's own... metal on metal no lube just sand like some promote??? lovely.
I use plenty Teflon loaded heavy duty grease on my bolts and lugs as we mostly have muddy wet conditions anyway .
edi
I use plenty Teflon loaded heavy duty grease on my bolts and lugs as we mostly have muddy wet conditions anyway .
edi
I have a general question, pertaining to the accuracy guarantees of modern Tikka and Sako rifles. If the barrels are the same and there is general agreement that the actions are true in all of the right places, why then the supposed greater out-of-the-box accuracy of the Sako? This question is largely going to draw subjective replies, but it's just a thought. I was handling a TRG-22 owned by a friend of mine the other day and honestly thought that I was handling a CTR.
I would think bedding and stock / recoil lug, if the triggers and barrels are identical.
I should have been more specific regarding stocks; I'm talking stocks that are approximately equivalent. I wonder how the TacA1 or the TSR-1 compares to a TRG-22 with the same cartridge and barrel, same shooter and ammo. It's merely an academic musing.
Ahhh. Good question.... the only thing I could think of is still bedding, tolerances and barrel.
Exactly. Tetra grease is what I use on my lugs, raceways and cocking ramps. Just a little goes a long way.
More that i use this KRG Whiskey, the more i love it, i think it is the best chassis you can get.
In comparing my T3x Tac To my TRG22, I believe that if everything was equal in potential accuracy, The TRG trigger would be the game changer between the two. It's far superior to the TacA1.
If only the Tac-A1 could accept the Midas trigger from KRG :/ I wanted to try it but KRG said the Midas shoe is too large to fit the Tac A1 cut out. Timney makes a nice 2-stage trigger for the T3.
My stock Tac A1 trigger has been good to me so I'm leaving it alone for now.
My stock Tac A1 trigger has been good to me so I'm leaving it alone for now.
Better stock/chassis. Way better trigger. But as far as barrel quality, same between the two.
I noticed that Stocky's now sells Proof Research pre-fit barrels for Tikka T3X. Didn't even know this was in the works:
www.stockysstocks.com
Proof Research Carbon Fiber Barrels- Pre-Fit Tikka T3/T3X Barrels
<p>PROOF Research’s match-grade carbon fiber barrels are stronger, lighter, as accurate as the finest precision steel barrels and will maintain their performance in the harshest conditions. PROOF didn’t invent carbon fiber-wrapped barrels. The
www.stockysstocks.com
I own both (not the A1). CTR and TRG are not in the same category.
Barrel: TRG is a heavy contour. CTR is something like a light Palma. Quality may be the same.
Action: TRG is beefier. Bolt is heavier. 60 degree throw vs. 72 degree throw.
Trigger: TRG is premium, almost over-engineered in its adjustability. CTR trigger is great, serviceable and simpler.
Stock: TRG is aluminum bedded, heavy, rugged, near indestructible and adjustable. Very ergonomic. CTR factory stock is plasticky, hollow, no cheek adjust. I'm not confident the center seam will not split in a hard fall. Many people swap out the CTR stock.
On every level, one can see more cost of quality components going into the TRG. It may sound like I'm bagging on the CTR so far, but I'm not. CTR has a lot more aftermarket options. It's lighter, more handy. The TRG I take to the range and back. The CTR is something I can carry comfortably in the field.
Nik
A poor man TRG is.
We take on Tikka T3 CTR, Varmint would be even closer to barrel profile.
One KRG Bravo chassis.
And if you want to mimic the trigger, there are two options you can buy.
A Timney or KRG Midas, i have them both.
Closer to TRG goes KRG, since you can adjust the trigger travel, not that the Timney would be bad.
We take on Tikka T3 CTR, Varmint would be even closer to barrel profile.
One KRG Bravo chassis.
And if you want to mimic the trigger, there are two options you can buy.
A Timney or KRG Midas, i have them both.
Closer to TRG goes KRG, since you can adjust the trigger travel, not that the Timney would be bad.
If you are shooting Hornady Match ammo (223) what kind of accuracy are you getting with your factory barrel vs. custom match barrel? I'm getting 0.7" edge to edge, will it improve if I throw on a criterion barrel? I know the ammo might be the limiting factor (assuming I can shoot...
CTR 24" barrel, Hornady 52gr ELD Macth on Lapua brass and Vihtavuori powder.
5-shots one hole, diameter 1,3mm.
So Tikka 223barrel with 1/8 twist they are good.
5-shots one hole, diameter 1,3mm
.So Tikka 223barrel with 1/8 twist they are good.
Inquire with Manners. My T3x has a Manners MCS T4 and Manners did a CDI Bottom Metal.
What stock are you going for?
All factory Tikka stocks will require inletting for aftermarket bottom metal, but certain stock manufacturers will inlet them for what ever you want.
The AICS 300WM mags may give you extra length.
If your getting a custom barrel made you could just get it throated to suit the magazine length. I personally don't like AICS magazines (sharp pointy edges and clunky IMO) especially on a hunting rifle so would try stick too the factory magazine if possible.
Probably a McMillan. They inlet for Redsnake tactical BM that uses the 300WM mags.
My hesitation with stock length Mags is that they limit OAL when handloading. Which robs performance. I want to get the most out of this rifle.
If I'm not mistaken there is multiple lengths available for the 300wm magazines, so may pay to make sure you get the length you will need.
I would investigate the performance penalties as it may not be enough to worry about, but I don't have any experience with the cartridge.
Will do, thank you.
I'm actually going to be building a 280AI from a 30.06 that I currently have. Hopefully by switching BM and Mags I'll have enough length to work with.
I wonder if I sent it to LRI or someone comparable if they could do that for me. I'm not sure if I'll need that length with the 280AI but if I do I'll keep that in mind and have it done.
If you are not dead set on the 280AI you could consider the 284win, similar ballistics, fits a standard bolt face, feeds fine in the Tikka and length will not be an issue.
Good luck.
Atlasworx does AICS bottom metal for long action in Tikka T3.
www.atlasworxs.com
Atlasworxs – Online Store
www.atlasworxs.com
Those of you with a t3 tactical in a krg whiskey 3 gen 6 chassis, how do you get the forend to slide back or forwards? I loosened the 6 screws and even tried taking them out all the way but with no luck. Does the barreled action have to be out of the chassis to adjust it? Also using an accurate metal mag (.223) if that changes anything.
That forend has a little play on it, but it is not much, we are talking about few millimeters.
Trigger guard is the element you want to adjust, that how you can get the magazine to fit in to your chassis how like it it.
But to do that, you must take action out of the chassis.
I use Whiskey 3 gen 6 on my CTR 223rem, i use MDT magazines.
The rifle with the green chassis.
Here´s the how do for the mag fitting.
Trigger guard is the element you want to adjust, that how you can get the magazine to fit in to your chassis how like it it.
But to do that, you must take action out of the chassis.
I use Whiskey 3 gen 6 on my CTR 223rem, i use MDT magazines.
The rifle with the green chassis.
Here´s the how do for the mag fitting.
Well I got my Tikka T3 Tactical .233 into its new permanent home, a KRG Whiskey 3 Gen 6 chassis and boy howdy does it look and feel great! I just have a plain Jane Vortex Viper 6.5-20x with Vortex Pro rings and a UTG Pro bipod for now as this was what was on my old Remington 700. Will be upgrading to better glass and an atlas bipod eventually after I get a timney 2 stage trigger.
I too have one on a 260, they're work extremely well don't they.
Do you share suppressors between cals, or have dedicated ones?
For the size they are, they are amazing how so small can be so efective.
I have 3 of these SL5i suppressor.
Ase Utra Sound Suppressors | Ase Utra
www.aseutra.fi
I also have 2 JAKI suppressor, made in Finland too.
So this is on a Tikka in 260 at a local retailer but is also on my Tikka t3 tactical, what the hell is that screw at the front of the receiver for? It’s the one that’s sticking up for really no reason. It was also on another Tikka as well.
It's a screw to attach a mirage band.
The front screw comes on some factory and aftermarket muzzle brakes.
There is not a hole below it in the action so don't go screwing it in or you will lift the front of your rail up.
Some people use it to lift the rail up after heating and removing the screws when replacing the factory rail for another just to get a blade under the edge for some leverage cause Tikka epoxies the shit out of the factory rails...
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thank you guys! Never heard of that but it’s good to know you can use it to aid in getting the rail off.
My TSR-1 had that. Learned this 2 weeks ago when I went ahead and screwed it in. Low and behold the rail came up. Ended up replacing the rail with a Spuhr 20 moa and yes they epoxy the shit out of it. Heat gun took care of it though.
