Tikka T3 Thread

If weather cooperates, I'll let you guys know how my T3x Tac A1 likes all these tomorrow or Tuesday.
15770518887978103641606500284925.jpg
 
Anyone know where I can find a "flat metal mag. spring"? I was about ready to order a new bottom metal from TikkaShooters and they recommended I locate the spring before I go with that particular bottom metal. Otherwise I need to order their AICS bottom. With 2 Tikka mags I don't see much reason to change? (I thought I read on here that someone had a spring available but can't find their post anymore.)
 
Got my KRG Bravo today

IMG_20191223_161954876.jpg


I was going to get the CTR version, but I wanted to put KRG's enclosed forend on this (they dont make a version for CTR mags yet), and give AICS mags a try. Getting it in Sako Green is also a bonus, but not really important.

I gotta say, CTR mags really are noticeably easier to load, feed much smoother, and are much shorter.

I don't really regret it though since they aren't huge issues, besides maybe the mag height. I might try MDT mags next.
 
After taking my rifle to the range, decided I wanted a little more padding on the cheek piece of the Bravo....

Not wanting to pay $15 bucks for a laser cut piece of foam, I stopped by the local craft store and found a sheet of black self adhesive foam... for 99 cents!

I used the cheek piece as a template and traced it with a ballpoint pen. After some slick scissor work, I had a nearly perfect fit cheek pad.
 

Attachments

  • 20191223_202707.jpg
    20191223_202707.jpg
    349.4 KB · Views: 116
Took out the T3x Varmint (223) out to 200 yards. Ran out of the load it loves (75 grain Hornady match boat tail) before I could shoot a group on paper. Had some 68 grain hornady match boat tail that it doesn't like as much. Shot a group of 8 or 9 rounds at 200 yards. This ammo shot 0.7" group at 100, while the 75 grain shoots 0.5" groups. Pretty happy with this gun. I doubt I will let it go anytime soon.

4" inch plates at 300 yards aren't a challenge any more. Need to stretch the distance a little, but don't have access to longer range till June.
 

Attachments

  • Resized_20191223_135247_3934.jpeg
    Resized_20191223_135247_3934.jpeg
    1.2 MB · Views: 63
Last edited:
Ok, so, I have a boggle I'm working through...

You guys that load your own ammo for your Tikka. With the long throated chamber of these rifles, do you guys do your Base-to-Ogive measurements off where the ogive touches the throat, or do you take the measurements where the ogive actually touches the rifling?
 
I run my hand loads about .020” off of the lands using the Hornady Lock and Load set up. I measure the jam Into the lands length and then deduct .020” from that dimension.
The .020” distance is kind of arbitrary but it seems to be working so far.
 
  • Like
Reactions: clcustom1911
After taking my rifle to the range, decided I wanted a little more padding on the cheek piece of the Bravo....

Not wanting to pay $15 bucks for a laser cut piece of foam, I stopped by the local craft store and found a sheet of black self adhesive foam... for 99 cents!

I used the cheek piece as a template and traced it with a ballpoint pen. After some slick scissor work, I had a nearly perfect fit cheek pad.
THAT'S HOW IT'S DONE! I'm all about DIY stuff.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Spheric14
You're referring to essentially the same thing. The rifling is in the throat and is actually what people are referring to when they say "throat".

I just started load development for a buddy's rifle. It's a 24" 6.5CM CTR. At 75rds on the barrel I measured 140 ELDM's touching the lands at 2.915" base to tip (COAL). The rifle shot factory Hornady Match 140 ELDM three-round groups in the .3's. The COAL on those was 2.810". I started off with that seating length and tried RL17, 23, and 4451. When I pulled apart a factory round it looked very much to be 40.6gr of 4451. I tried that and it shot about the same as factory. RL23 was too slow, but accurate. 2500fps. RL17 got to 2820 comfortably with sub half moa. Today I tried StaBall and it shot like a boss. In the .2's and .3's. 2750fps SD 2.4 no pressure in sight. I'm going to keep going up and see where the pressure is. This was at 2.905" COAL BTW
Good info, thank you.
 
Looking at throwing my Tac A1 into a McMillan A-10 stock to match my Impact set up. As the Tac doesn’t have a bottom metal does anyone know if the action will fit just buy buying a factory one? McMillan is saying they currently only have inlets for that DBM. However I’ve seen the DBM swap to AISC that are drop in. Any idea if that would work? Thx
 
Anyone know where I can find a "flat metal mag. spring"? I was about ready to order a new bottom metal from TikkaShooters and they recommended I locate the spring before I go with that particular bottom metal. Otherwise I need to order their AICS bottom. With 2 Tikka mags I don't see much reason to change? (I thought I read on here that someone had a spring available but can't find their post anymore.)

Anyone????
 
Don't know that it is for plastic mags but TikkaShooters said that I need the flat metal "L" shaped spring to use their bottom metal that accommodates the existing CTR mags.
Well for one thing that retainer clip is not used on CTR magazines It is for standard Tikka's with the plastic magazines.
That's the reason CTR and TacA1's do not come with them they have the magazine release lever that holds them in place and to my knowledge I have not seen any Mountain tactical bottom metal that will take CTR magazines.(AICS only)
It sounds to me like someone has given you some bad info...
If you plan on using a CTR magazine then you need to try and find a CTR take off BDM that will fit a stock made for the CTR.
 
Last edited:
Maybe they are better referred to as a magazine tension spring that mounts near the trigger.
If you actually need one (which it sounds like you don't) you can make one.
Anyone by chance have a source for a Trigger Tension Tab? I took mine off years ago for a chassis build and am now rebarreling to a Caebon McMillan and aftermarket OEM pattern bottom metal and will need it for the dinky factory mags.

Happy to pay someone that's taking theirs off for a chassis. (Would also cut some a deal on my KRG X-Ray that's for sale!)

Pic to be clear on what I need, the part #2. View attachment 7154227
Buddy of mine made one from a 27-mm pipe clamp. He converted his CTR to run with the Lite mags in a B&C stock. Works just fine. All that "tab" does is apply forward pressure on the plastic mag so it will catch and not fall out.

View attachment 7154300View attachment 7154301View attachment 7154302
 
Looking at throwing my Tac A1 into a McMillan A-10 stock to match my Impact set up. As the Tac doesn’t have a bottom metal does anyone know if the action will fit just buy buying a factory one? McMillan is saying they currently only have inlets for that DBM. However I’ve seen the DBM swap to AISC that are drop in. Any idea if that would work? Thx
There's bottom metals that are at least advertised as drop in replacements for Tikka/Tikka CTR bottom metal. Sometimes you hear that a small tweak here or there might be needed to get it just right.

"ejg", here, has mentioned Atlasworx bottom metal. I think he sells them in Ireland.
 
I've been frustrated trying to find the Tikka Poly mags for the 6.5 CM. (model M+). I can get them from Beretta but at $50 plus shipping. They have a deal going now that you get 25% off of a $200 or more purchase. I'm kicking around buying a bunch (over $200 worth) and selling what I don't need. Is there any interest out there for them at $45. shipped to your door? Just trying to gauge interest.
 
I've been frustrated trying to find the Tikka Poly mags for the 6.5 CM. (model M+). I can get them from Beretta but at $50 plus shipping. They have a deal going now that you get 25% off of a $200 or more purchase. I'm kicking around buying a bunch (over $200 worth) and selling what I don't need. Is there any interest out there for them at $45. shipped to your door? Just trying to gauge interest.


I take it that these are what your looking for?


They even have the extended 5rd one's.

 
I take it that these are what your looking for?


They even have the extended 5rd one's.

No, those are the 308 mags. The number I want is # S58569827 which is made for the 6.5CM and allows a longer COAL than the 308 mags that you referenced.
 
I've been frustrated trying to find the Tikka Poly mags for the 6.5 CM. (model M+). I can get them from Beretta but at $50 plus shipping. They have a deal going now that you get 25% off of a $200 or more purchase. I'm kicking around buying a bunch (over $200 worth) and selling what I don't need. Is there any interest out there for them at $45. shipped to your door? Just trying to gauge interest.
these are M+ 5 rd mags
 
What is the lightest barrel profile one should go on a long range/tactical rig?

I've got a standard T3 lite barrel in 260 that I've shot PRS style matches as well as F class, it holds up to 10-13 round string remarkably well.

Not sure what barrel life I can expect doing that, but it shoots very well.
Heavier contours will of course be better, the CTR contour is a pretty good comprise.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: clcustom1911
You're referring to essentially the same thing. The rifling is in the throat and is actually what people are referring to when they say "throat".

I just started load development for a buddy's rifle. It's a 24" 6.5CM CTR. At 75rds on the barrel I measured 140 ELDM's touching the lands at 2.915" base to tip (COAL). The rifle shot factory Hornady Match 140 ELDM three-round groups in the .3's. The COAL on those was 2.810". I started off with that seating length and tried RL17, 23, and 4451. When I pulled apart a factory round it looked very much to be 40.6gr of 4451. I tried that and it shot about the same as factory. RL23 was too slow, but accurate. 2500fps. RL17 got to 2820 comfortably with sub half moa. Today I tried StaBall and it shot like a boss. In the .2's and .3's. 2750fps SD 2.4 no pressure in sight. I'm going to keep going up and see where the pressure is. This was at 2.905" COAL BTW

Gents,

Please forgive the NOOB question; How does one go about measuring the distance to the lands? I thought that the chambers are standardized. appreciate the explanation.
 
Gents,

Please forgive the NOOB question; How does one go about measuring the distance to the lands? I thought that the chambers are standardized. appreciate the explanation.
Chambers will all fall within SAMMI specs but they are not all exactly the same. You best look up some videos on youtube as the measuring process is probably more than can be explained well on a forum. It is pretty easy once you know how to do it but hard to explain in writing. As reubenski pointed out, the first thing is to get the tool that he has the link to.